[uucdigest] Wednesday, April 19 2000 Volume 03 : Number 622 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Fw: <ADMIN> Sending posts and different e-mail Re: [uuc] Performance Friction [uuc] =?iso-8859-1?Q?=5Buuc=5D_Re:_PF_=93Z=94_and_Autozone_vs_Porterfield_R4-S?= [uuc] Tranny Switch on a 740... Re: [uuc] Sorry, helmet question [uuc] LSD question [uuc] Re: Sorry, helmet question [uuc] RE: Plastic padding under front of car [uuc] <e30> Zymol wax??? whats that Re: [uuc] RE: Plastic padding under front of car [uuc] re: upgrading wheels [uuc] M seat badges [uuc] Anybody else receiving spam from topica.com? Re: [uuc] Re: Garage Floor Paint Re: [uuc] LSD question ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:42:23 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson - UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Fw: <ADMIN> Sending posts and different e-mail Two issues that are coming up a lot behind the scenes lately: 1) Posting address: The ONLY way your post will ever show up is by sending it to the correct address. The CORRECT address: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Many people have been sending to WRONG address [EMAIL PROTECTED] that address sends to me and I have stopped individually reminding people. You send to that address, it won't show anywhere. 2) Changing your s*bscription address: for a variety of reasons, many people need to s*bscribe more than one e-mail address or change the e-mail address they use. The CORRECT procedure for s*bscribing and uns*bscribing is posted at www.uucdigest.com Many people have been going to extra effort to send "approval" requests to change their address. This is not necessary. Those approval requests come to me and, except in cases where there may be a problem with the majordomo software recognizing an address, there is absolutely no reason to go through the approval procedure. Those approval requests will be ignored as it is the incorrect way and a waste of time to approve them all. - - Rob Levinson UUC Digest ListOwner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:49:39 +0000 From: Jeff Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Performance Friction Depends on what size. Performance Friction said that they continually eliminate slow movers. The 90 compound is still in production. PFC 394 & 396 are still readily available from PF as well as Porterfield (for the E36M3) Don't know about any other sizes. Jeff Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Fellow Digesters, > > While trying to order PF 90's last week, I was told by both Porterfield and > Carbotech that several compounds, including the PF 90, had been discontinued > by Performance Friction. As a result of this, I obtained Hawk Blue's from > Carbotech. Great service, by the way. > > Anybody else had the same information? I haven't yet called the manufacturer > to verify this information. > > Jim Cunningham > BMW CCA Everglades > 88 ///M5 > 89 325is ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:40:53 -0500 From: "Simon Hunter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] =?iso-8859-1?Q?=5Buuc=5D_Re:_PF_=93Z=94_and_Autozone_vs_Porterfield_R4-S?= > When it comes to track pads, unanimous opinion was that the Performance > Friction PF90 easily gets the nod over the Porterfield R4 (race compund). >For what kind of use??? >The PF90 is a nice intermediate pad. Good cold torque. But it won't hold up to really heavy use. I use it in wet weather and on the SHO in less brake-intensive tracks. >I've had very good luck with the R4 pads. They hold up better in hard use than the PF90. I've seen some claim that R4 quality can be variable, but I haven' thad any problems. >I've gotten a certain amount of advice that the R4 isn't enough for my needs and I really ought to be running Hawk Blues, but I'll use up my stock of R4 pads first. >bear in mind that the above is not based on BMW use, so far the only track time the household Bimmer has seen was five laps of the Nordschleife after we picked it up in Munich, my track wheels are a >351-powered '89 Mustang and a '91 Taurus SHO. >John. In my experience this is not correct. The PF90 is strictly a track pad and a good one at that. The Porterfield R4 is also a track pad, but does not hold up as well as the PF90's and I feel it does not brake quite as well. I can go through a set of R4's in one track weekend. My PF90's have lasted at least twice as long as that. Just my experience, on an E30 M3. Simon ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 10:47:07 -0500 From: "Brent Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Tranny Switch on a 740... Just wondering, how hard do you think it would be to put a 6 speed manual in a 7 series? Couldn't you just install the same tranny from a 540i Sport? I mean it should fit since it is the same drivetrain almost. What do you guys think? Just wondering. Brent ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:24:30 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Sorry, helmet question Motorcycle ratings and car ratings are different in areas like flammability and abrasion resistance. There is a Snell web site that explains in great detail Its snell.org or something like that. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > <Nomex lined helmet on> > > I know this went around last year, but I didn't have a motorcycle then.... > > The guy at the motorcycle shop says that a motorcycle helmet that is Snell > 95 and DOT certified would work for either. > > I thought somebody before said that motorcycle ratings are different > somehow, but he said no. Snell rating is Snell rating. > > Is there a snell 2000 rating? I want my helmet to be valid for as long as > possible.... > > A friend gave me a motorcycle, so I would like to buy one helmet that will > work for either. I don't ride or do drivers schools that often. > > > Thanks, and sorry if I start something. > > Craig J. Lovold > > </Nomex> > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 09:10:24 -0700 From: Scott Catlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] LSD question Anyone know where I can buy some? Just kidding. Coming from VW-land all I know about the limited slip differentials is that everybody wants a Quaife. Can someone break down for me a comparison between a Quaife and the ones in a stock E30 325is? I have a general idea about the workings of the LSD, if someone could give tell me about their personal experience, how the LSD in an E30 affects handling in their own car as compared to cars without a LSD, I'd greatly appreciate it. Butt-dyno numbers happily accepted. - - Scott ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:31:31 -0400 From: "James Moran" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Sorry, helmet question Ah, a pet subject of mine :) Motorcycle helmets (Snell M rated) and auto racing helmets (Snell SA rated) have several differences. They include: 1. Fire resistant lining in SA helmets. 2. Field of view (eye port size) is larger for M helmets. 3. An additional roll-bar impact test for SA helmets. For the specifics, visit the Snell Memorial Foundation web site at http://www.smf.org/>. My recommendations are to buy the correct helmet for its use, buy a full face helmet (even for use in a sedan), and buy the lightest helmet you can afford. Is saving the $300 cost of the extra helmet worth it? Jim Moran '88 M6 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:24:13 -0500 From: "Fadeev, Alex" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Plastic padding under front of car "Harmon W. Fischer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I lost that misearable p.o.s. on both my '95 and '98 M3s. > The OEM part can easily be damaged by parking area > stops, as it lives maybe 1 1/2" - 2" lower than the bottom > of the front bumper cover. If you drive too close to one of > them, when you back up it snags on the stop and tears > the part. > There is an answer! J T Designs makes a replacement kit > of what seems to be black anodized aluminum - retail is > about $150. I showed it to Mike Miller (Roundel Tech Guy) at > Gateway, and I am in the process of submitting a "New product" > article for the magazine. Hopefully the pictures will turn out ok. > The best part is that it does not come below the bottom of the > front bumper cover, and it is obviously much stronger than the > OEM part(s). If anyone is interested, contact me privately and > I will send ordering information. > Harmon Fischer > BMW CCA # 1806 > '98 M3 F Harmon, Do you have J T Design's web site or phone number? TIA, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:22:59 -0400 From: "tim ng" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <e30> Zymol wax??? whats that - ----- Original Message ----- From: tim ng <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 2:59 PM Subject: Zymol wax??? whats that > I just cannot believe any BMW owner not knowing what Zymol wax is, its the > king of all waxes. get with the program if you are going to own one of our > cars, You MUST live the life of one of us!!!! live and die for everything > BMW or related to BMW. I bet you don't know who Chuck Bennett is also???!!! > HA, he's the owner and all around car clean nut of Zymol. You must surround > your life with everything BMW related, you must only subscribe and read BMW > only magazines, own only BMW stock or their parts suppliers' stocks, you > must pay homeage to Sparatenburg S.C. once a year and attend every O'Fest in > your living life. No more silly questions about what Zymol is, or what is a > guibo/TPS sensor/how to set my OBC.... these are all silly questions that > you all should know thru osmosis of BMW ownership! > > The preceding was just the comments and believes of one crazy/one tracked > BMW life of one nutty multi-BMW (4) owner who plans his yearly vacations > around O'Fest, driving schools,Gateway,Korman open house,Auto-x,Petit Le > Man,F1,Cart,Speedvision cup..... > > name withheld due to too much non BMW related spaming. > > >Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:46:08 -0500 > >From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: [uuc] Zymol Wax > > >Has anyone heard of this wax, Zymol? I've heard that it's really good for > >black cars, and you don't have to worry about swirls. Can I purchase this > at > >any automotive store? Thanks so much for all responses on this issue. I > >haven't forgotten about the all cotton towels > > >Celisa > >99 328is > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 09:30:56 -0700 From: Jim Powell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Plastic padding under front of car http://www.jt-designs.com "Fadeev, Alex" wrote: > > > Harmon, > Do you have J T Design's web site or phone number? > > TIA, > alex f ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:32:22 -0700 From: "BILL MITCHELL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: upgrading wheels I put Hockenheim R wheels on my '90 325is from Discount Tire Direct. They look very similar to a BBS design for much less $$. They really fill out the wheelwells on my car. 15" tires are cheaper than 16's and offer slightly better acceleration to boot. I agree, there aren't many 4X100 wheels out there. I've been told VW wheels will fit with a spacer plate, and I know BBS makes some if you want to spend the money. Bill Mitchell <Hey folks, I am interested in upgrading the wheels on my '90 325i. I'm not sure if I should go to 15" or 16" but the hardest part is "where can I get them?" I haven't found too many distributers. One spot has a nice sale on 15" x 7" but should I consider 16"'s while I'm at it? Any suggestions are most appreciated,> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 12:44:15 -0400 From: "tim ng" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M seat badges Alex, many of us on the e30 M3 S.I.G. have these seat badges and the nails are used to puncture the leather and hold the seat badges in place. I used a small diam. drill to put 2 small holes in the leather first that way, it is much easier to install. I also trimmed about 2 inches off the end of the nails so to make sure they don't go thru the backs of the seat. use a pair of metal cutters. I also used a piece of 2 sides tapeunder the badges so it would adhere to the seat. Tim Ng ask e30 M3 questions to the SIG, may the FORCE have the answer for you >Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 11:55:20 -0300 >From: "Angelopoulos, Alex" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] ///M Seat Badges >Well I placed an order for the ///M seat badges for my E30 ///M3 last week. >I went by the dealer today to pick them up, and to my surprise, they have >huge nails sticking out the back that are used to mount these suckers on the >leather seats. I don't know about you guys, but I get pretty nervous around >sharp objects when they are near my interior. >Is there some trick to putting these things on the seats without doing any >damage? The parts department guys suggest I get a big hammer and wail >away. >They were obviously joking but I can not think of a much better way of >putting them on my sets. The part number for these emblems are: >front badges: 52-10-1-927-000 >rear badges: 52-20-1-927-590 >Any help would be greatly appreciated. >Alex >1991 ///M3 >sharked and loving it ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 17:02:01 +0000 From: David Cullen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Anybody else receiving spam from topica.com? Hi All, Is anybody else receiving spam from topica lists you didn't s*bscribe to? This and the M3 list are the only lists I ever s*bscribed to at topica and somehow it appears that I'm s*bscribed to automotive_tuning at topica now which is a nonexistant list and receiving solicitations to buy products. David ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 13:07:58 -0400 From: Andrew Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Garage Floor Paint Use a concrete cleaning solution. Then use acetone. Then etch the concrete with an HCl solution (that's muriatic acid). Then take a towel or something and remove the hazing on the concrete (or at least all the concrete dust). Then paint. The most important part is to use a respirator (available anywhere for $20) with organic vapor catridges during the acetone cleaning and the actual painting. When etching, you'll need the acid cartridge. Andrew Andrew Leong wrote: > > Hey guys: > > Any additional insight on what prepping need be done PRIOR to applying the > Sherwin Williams paint? For example, how clean does the floor need to > be? Do I need to take off any residue grease/oil (prior owner of house was > mechanic/old car restoration guy)--- Or can I just apply it on? > > Thanks much, > Cheers, > Drew NYC ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 13:24:29 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] LSD question On front wheel drive, approximately 50% of the weight transfer is on the front wheels. This unloads the inside tire a lot and severely limits getting power to the ground. A clutch type limited slip is harsh and will cause torque steer and other non-desirable effects to the steering. The Quaife is similar to a Torsen limited slip and acts much more smoothly, a good thing for FWD. RWD is much less particular and clutch type LSD works well enough. Furthermore, only approximately 20% of the weight transfer occurs at the rear wheels so tire unloading is less severe but still significant. The greatest effect LSD has on a RWD car is inducing understeer by locking the two rear tires together and resisting turning. Also under power, the outside rear tire has greater forward thrust and creates an understeering moment about the center of gravity. However, if you have enough torque to break loose the rear tires, the car will suffer from power oversteer. This makes driving tricky, as you add power exiting a corner, the car tends to understeer until you break the tires loose, then you quickly get power oversteer. Not all cars will understeer as power is added. Rear weight bias and large rear tires (P car syndrome) increase the power understeer and delay the onslaught of power oversteer. Cars with high front weight bias and skinny tires will power oversteer as soon as power is applied. A Quaife or Torsen will work better in the rear of a BMW than a clutch type LSD but the difference is not that great. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Anyone know where I can buy some? > > Just kidding. Coming from VW-land all I know about the limited slip differentials is that everybody wants a Quaife. Can someone break down for me a comparison between a Quaife and the ones in a stock E30 325is? I have a general idea about the workings of the LSD, if someone could give tell me about their personal experience, how the LSD in an E30 affects handling in their own car as compared to cars without a LSD, I'd greatly appreciate it. Butt-dyno numbers happily accepted. > > - Scott ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #622 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Curry's Auto Service . http://www.currysauto.com | Eurosport . http://www.eurosport-hp.com | Koala MotorSport . http://www.koalamotorsport.com | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | The Ultimate Garage . http://www.ultimategarage.com | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com | Zionsville Autosport . http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com ����������������������������������������
