[uucdigest] Friday, June 22 2001 Volume 03 : Number 3911 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] (e30) Radio Code [Brad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] Anyone deal with a company called AUTOSOURCE? ["jedinite" <bimmer@j] Re: [uuc] (e30) Radio Code [Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] RE: [uuc] <All> Rotor Hat Material ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.f] [uuc] Speed [Ray Bahr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] WOB Cookie Monster ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.fuerst@sylv] RE: [uuc] Speed...Part II ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.fuerst@syl] RE: [uuc] trailer hitch installation ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert] RE: [uuc] Re: Inner workings of an S54.... Answers. ["Fuerst, Robert C. (] [uuc] <E30> Stuck Bolts [tabe johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] RE: [uuc] <E36> Ignition system upgrade from Jim Powell ["Fuerst, Robert ] [uuc] refurbishing the black. E30 ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.fu] [uuc] heat heat heat ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.fuerst@sylvania] [uuc] RE: Speed ["James Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:53:11 -0400 From: Brad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] (e30) Radio Code Radio will not accept the code, it will beep when he last digit is entered, any suggestions, before i remove the unit. Brad Otto 88 m3 88 ix ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 22:02:27 -0500 From: "jedinite" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Anyone deal with a company called AUTOSOURCE? (Background - I'm in the process of looking for a dedicated (road-legal) track car, preferably an e36 M3.) In my searching, I've run across a website called AutoSource Online (www.autosource-online.com). They claim to have hundreds of deeply discounted insurance settlement vehicles available for sale. Anyone have any experience with this kind of service, or this company? They want $10 as a one-time membership fee. Not a huge risk, but I'd rather not throw away money for nothing. Just looking for any potential feedback before throwing away $10 ;) ~jedinite bmw.jedinite.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:06:54 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] (e30) Radio Code Leave it powered up for an hour and try again. If that doesn't work, remove the fuse, leave it powered up another hour, reinstall the fuse and try again. If that doesn't work, get the dealer to print you off the code number and be certain that the numbers you are keying in are correct. If that doesn't work, I sell them on eBay for parts. Ed Brad wrote: > > Radio will not accept the code, it will beep when he last digit is > entered, any suggestions, before i remove the unit. > > Brad Otto > 88 m3 > 88 ix ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:20:39 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <All> Rotor Hat Material Cause it does not exist in that form. Available in sheets only. (1100) I think your pockets ain't deep enough for 7068. > Well, let's see now... 7075 has a yield of 73 ksi.... On the other hand, > 7068 has a yield of 99 ksi with similar corrosion properties, so is > perhaps a better choice. Has anyone calculated what strength you'll > need? If so, I'd go with the least esoteric alloy possible. I've been > trying > to find 1100 in rod/bar/plate form on and off for a few months, with NO > success. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:26:20 -0400 From: Ray Bahr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Speed Hi All, The last Sea-to-Shining-Sea rally was won in ~32 hours - NY to San Fran I think it was. I was never quite so daring, I did Boston to Atlanta 1100 miles in 14 hours, another time I flew from Boston to Detroit leaving Boston @3:00Pm Friday, bought a car and was back in Boston by 9:00 AM the following day. But then this could also have been a dream. Ray Bahr ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:24:33 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WOB Cookie Monster WTF? he didn't do it that often. Only when I was bad.... > -----Original Message----- > From: Andy Peavy [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 4:24 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Cookie Monster (was Re: Tire dressing) > > --- John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." > > -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro > > ...after getting shoved to the ground and kicked by an immature > father.... > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:29:57 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Speed...Part II Has anyone ever done top fuel type stuff? It's gotta be the only thing that's close to that catapult.... 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: . [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 6:15 PM > To: BMW > Subject: [uuc] Speed...Part II > > Oh yeah.....speaking of speed. I hit Mach 2 in an F4B Phantom, when in > the > Navy.....does that count? and 0-650 MPH in 275 feet in a steam catapult > launch off the USS Constellation..... > > Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:43:24 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] trailer hitch installation http://www.motorworks.com/bmw/ type hitch in the search by keyword section. 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Crawford, Scott [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 3:00 PM > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' > Subject: [uuc] trailer hitch installation > > Hi all, > > I'm looking into my options concerning putting a trailer hitch on my '89 > 325is for very light towing, the square kind, is that a receiver hitch? > Has > any got any suggestions about doing this, where to get the parts, doing > the > install, not doing it because it's a really bad idea? > > Thanks for any information. > > Scott ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 23:55:20 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Inner workings of an S54.... Answers. We sell Tungsten and Moly plasma spray coatings. I bet it's one of the two. Or a mix. 1st > > From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > a) Are those cam lobes treated with graphite? They seem to be a darker > color > > then normal. > > Don't know for sure, but it appears to be some sort of coating. > > > Now offering BMW special tool rental > and pay per incident tech help. > --------------------------- > Brett Anderson > www.koalamotorsport.com > Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 20:56:04 -0700 From: tabe johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> Stuck Bolts Neil, Heat, heat, heat. Get yourself a blowtorch or a welding torch and CAREFULLY heat the nut/bolt/part. If you need to, put tinfoil to reflect heat away from flammable car parts. Heat works way better than any penetrating oil I've ever used, but it helps to soak the part in penetrating oil for a day before the heat is applied. >Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 19:06:38 -0700 (PDT) >From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] <E30> Stuck Bolts, etc. Help! >1. While trying to R&R the parking brake assemblies I >find that the sheath is stuck on the hub side. There >isn't enough metal end-collar to catch in vise-grips >as the collar is recessed in the hub and appears to be >a mild press-fit now corroded in place. I've tried >Rost Off and it will not budge. Cannot even hammer it >out from the bearing side. Any ideas? Heat? How to >heat? I really want the parking brakes to work now >that I have all the used assemblies, etc. I've never seen this assembly myself, so can only offer general advice: If you can get a pick (small flathead screwdriver) between the faces and gently tap on it, that might help. Can you cut threads into the centre of the sheath with a tap? Could you thread a bolt through and attach a slide hammer to that? Also, a 5 lb. hammer works disproportionately well compared to a 2 lb. hammer. >2. I'm not able to remove the brake hard lines as they >are corroded on. Vise-grips are making good progress, >but the bolt that holds the t-splitter to the body is >corroded. The head is rounded. Any ideas? You could file new flats into the bolt. Use heat, as described above. I'd open a bleeder valve on one of the brakes before heating. This would allow superheated brake fluid to spit out, instead of letting pressure build up inside the system. >3. One of the bolts that holds the tank up sheared and >the stud in left in the car. I can drill it out, but >what would we put in its place? Nut-sert? How does >that work and will it be easy to remove as and when it >becomes necessary? Depends entirely on what's on the other side and if you have access. If you put anti-sieze or some other goop on it you shouldn't have any problem getting it off. Best of luck - I've been there. - --tabe johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vancouver, BC 1988 325is ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 00:06:56 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E36> Ignition system upgrade from Jim Powell idiot savants indeed. I can kick ass on SAT's and still not get 7x8 correct. Anywho, by looking at the graphs and what I can remember in school you lost a good spark and got a longer, weaker one? Last time I looked at a scope was a Sun machine in 1990 so I might be wrong. Also, it may be what your car needs. I myself much favor the more "stock" squared off primary wave than the IS one. 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 5:47 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] <E36> Ignition system upgrade from Jim Powell > > Gone but not forgotten, Jim Powell forwarded this to me for posting on the > UUC Digest: > > ==================================== > I'm not completely done with this yet. But I'm on vacation and > determined to have another life, so it may take me a few days to finish > the writeup. Some of the technical explanations are missing but there's > enough data to let the knowledgeable and the idiot savants have a field > day. > > http://www.apexcone.com/Ignition/IgnitionSolutions/IgnitionSolutions.html > > Jim > Having a non-car day! > ==================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 00:10:58 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] refurbishing the black. E30 Grant, thanks. It was almost a joke but that's great that it will work. Question. I have the "stock" air dam and bumper surrounds. Should I plan on doing that part also or is it not meant to be "black"? Why are your bumpers looking like chrome? Are mine supposed to be that way? Maybe if I polish them? Would it be a good idea to mask the metal? Is it hard to remove the "overspray"? Thanks, 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: Grant Low [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 1:27 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] WTB: E23, E30 license bracket strips, refurbishing > the black. > > 1st (and others), > > I did the Kiwi-shoe-polish-with-integrated-sponge mod to my front bumper > trim in March of 2000, and it's shown almost no wear since then, even > after > almost 20,000 miles and sitting outside all the time. I imagine it will > last til next summer. It cost ~4 bucks for the polish IIRC, and it's > really > easy! I did 2 or 3 coats (can't remember). Here's a pic of the results, > before I went back and got some excess off the chrome: > http://gunter.gunter.com/personal/bumperblack.jpg > > Grant > 87 325 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 00:15:58 -0400 From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] heat heat heat FYI - one of my torches is an oxy/mapp torch with small disposable bottles. I think Sears/Lowes/etc. sells them for about $40. Like a mini oxy/acetylene torch. It works great for getting a lot of heat in a small area without cooking everything else around it. The bottles are kind of pricey but it comes in real handy when you need it. I also have a regulator and a hose with a propane torch for the "normal" heat jobs. Makes it real nice without having the bottle attached to it, can work inverted, etc. Of course if you have the cash, OA is the way to go. Multitude of tips, you can cut your car in half if you like, etc... 1st > -----Original Message----- > From: tabe johnson [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] > > Neil, > > Heat, heat, heat. Get yourself a blowtorch or a welding torch > and CAREFULLY heat the nut/bolt/part. If you need to, put > tinfoil to reflect heat away from flammable car parts. Heat works > way better than any penetrating oil I've ever used, but it helps > to soak the part in penetrating oil for a day before the heat > is applied. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 01:00:26 -0700 From: "James Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Speed My brother had a 325is that would redline right at top speed, which was 150MPH indicated, though I only reached 110-120 on occasion. Extended periods of time in my mom's Accord SEi (1989 model, the real one with rear torsion bars) over 115 would cause some interesting noises in the drive train, hence that only saw 120 with me driving. But still had plenty of power left. My (now departed) 750iL saw 140 on I-5, and my 540i saw about 130 on 101 between Santa Barbara and Ventura. Very interesting story there...I came up on a pack of about 10 cars doing <50MPH, two very modified Hondas/Acuras blocking all lanes in front, slowing everyone down. There was a third car that appeared to be ready to block the third lane that appeared later. As soon as we came to an on-ramp, I swung around them on the right and kept accelerating until I hit about 130, then slowed somewhat. We never saw any lights behind us after that. Very weird. Cheerio, James Nelson... 1999 540i 1988 M5 (FS) 1975 2002 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #3911 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Detailwerks Chicago Inc. "Chicago's Premier Automotive Appearance | Center" . http://www.detailwerkschicago.com |==================================================== | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com |==================================================== | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
