[uucdigest] Tuesday, July 24 2001 Volume 03 : Number 4051 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] E46 Rear Camber - Tire wear [James Muskopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]] RE: [uuc] jumping cars ["Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] Re: Der neue 7er [[EMAIL PROTECTED]] RE: [uuc] E36 idle ["Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] Re: [uuc] I am now the proud owner of a '87 528e :) [Rob Levinson * UUC M] [uuc] <all> build dates [[EMAIL PROTECTED]] [uuc] <E30> M20 blowed up? (LONG) [Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] Re: [uuc] I am now the proud owner of a '87 528e :) [Patrick Burns <patri] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 04:50:01 -0700 (PDT) From: James Muskopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E46 Rear Camber - Tire wear Probably not. Since he has the Sport package, he can't expect super-long-life tires in 17" form. They don't exist. People put 17" wheels on their cars so they can have sticky tires. 25k miles is great on 17" wheels. How long does he expect tires to last, anyway? 40k miles? Then he should buy a Toyota Camry with 15" steel wheels and Sears Roadhandler tires. The combination of camber and toe will wear out the inner tread. Camber alone usually does not do this. How hard does he drive the car? What's his average highway speed? Does he accelerate hard? Does he keep a lot of extra weight in the car? Three degrees isn't too much, but find out what the spec camber should be. If he wants less, they can do it. The rear-stability of the car may suffer when cornering. You can't have it all. JamesM [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2001 15:30:05 -0700 > From: "Phil Bell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] E46 Rear Camber > > My brother has an E46 with the sport package. At 25k he had to > replace his tires due to the inside tread being gone. He's a > little upset he only got 25k on the OEM tires. He had the shop > (not a BMW Center) check the alignment, and was told the rear > camber is a negative 3 degrees. That sounds excessive to me. > Is the rear camber not adjustable (like the E30 and E36)? Is 3 > degrees negative too much? > > Thanks for your help > > Phil Bell > San Diego Chapter > 88 325iX __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 13:59:59 +0200 From: "Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] jumping cars > It all depends on the landing doesn't it? >From my experience, jumps are quite ok for the cars. They handle it quite well. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:26:38 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Der neue 7er >Fellow listers, I thought some of you may enjoy these pictures and the >article on the new 7 Series. The text is auf Deutsch. >Personally, the front is hard to enjoy with the "eyebrow" turn indicators >(maybe better in clear), but the mid-eighties Lincoln tail is beyond words. >> http://www.spiegel.de/auto/news/0,1518,145960,00.html >> >Matt Weimer Having just spent the weekend driving my father's '99 740iL all over Philadelphia and Wilmington, DE, I can only say that I am truly disappointed in the new car, at least on paper. The E38 is a great looking car, especially in whatever blue it is my father got his in. The text of the article is very interesting. It starts talking about how the engineers used a special laboratory to design the leather seats so that they would not make unpleasant noises as derri�res slide across them. Then Bangle defends his hideous design by saying that concessions were made in the rear end to allow better aerodynamics and to allow golf bags to be loaded crosswise in the trunk. I will admit that loading golf bags in the E38 requires studying the pictograph on the trunk lid (you have to load them length-wise, and put them in club-heads first - we played 3 rounds this weekend so I got lots of practice). They then talk about the I-drive and how much power the new car makes. I usually don't like new BMW's as much as the old ones. There is always at least one person on the digest who reminds us all how we slammed a new car, then grew to love it. I won't grow to love this new car. The front looks like a Hyundai Sonata, and the rear is just plain terrible. Bangle really screwed the pooch on this one. The new S-class is downright gorgeous. Sleek, beautiful compared to this ugly duckling. All my humble opinion, of course. Shane Kleinpeter '96 M3 '94 325i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:29:05 +0200 From: "Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 idle > Can anyone suggest what causes my 95 325i to idle very poorly > when starting > from cold? It hesitates for about 10 seconds and then goes > away. Giving it > gas cures it as well. Should I be looking for things like temperature > sensors, cold injector and idle control valve just like the > 1980s vintage > cars? Thanks. Check your Oxygene sensor. Check Carbon buildup at Idle Value Valve Check plugs ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:49:49 -0400 From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] I am now the proud owner of a '87 528e :) > From: "jedinite" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I am now the proud owner of a '87 528e. Congrats! > Any suggestions on modifications (grin)? I'm already > thinking TMS/Conforti chip, Cone Filter kit, and UUC short-shift kit. Other things to seriously consider: 1) Front lower chassis brace as factory-fitted to 535i/535is. Any dismantler would probably give it to you for free. Why the 528e was thought to not need it is a mystery. The 528e's frame rails already have the holes, so it is a simple bolt-on. 2) As Karl pointed out, a lower diff ration will certainly perk it up and not hurt mpg to any great degree. 3) Remember that any 535i/535is/M5 suspension components (except the M5's rear self-leveling) will fit perfectly and cost within 10% of "e" parts should you need to replace them anyway. 4) Front brake upgrades are universally interchangeable between any E24 (6-series), E28, E32 ('88-'94 7-series), and E34 ('89-'95 5-series). Any of the M5/E32/E34 brakes will be major upgrades for your car and most are affordable. 5) All E28s have front and rear suspension parts that benefit from upgrading to other or later parts. Specifically, modified E32 control arm bushings (call Steve D'G @ The Ultimate Garage) in the front, M5 subframe bushings in the rear. 6) There is no upgrade #6. 7) Sport seats (including the power plug) from the 535is/M5 are direct bolt-ins. 8) Silly little stuff is upgradeable, such as the lighted window switches from the '88 cars and the "Premium" stereo speakers with door-mounted tweeters (big difference compared to the single-speaker setup). 9) Don't forget to clean those sunroof drains! The plastic line from a weed-wacker is effective and safe for the plastic drain tubes. 10) Wheels and tires; E28s are happy with 16" wheels (Use a 225/50-16 like the E28 M5) and even 17" (use 235/40-17 or 235/45-17). 15", 16", and 17" wheels from the E32 and E34 are a perfect fit in hub size and offset. 11) If you have factory foglights bolted to the bumper, exact replacements are still available from Bosch. Even better - Bosch makes the exact same lens fitment in a driving light pattern, much better than the OE fog. 12) Headlights can be upgraded to Hella/Cibie/Bosch units with H1 and H4 bulbs. Fantastic improvment. You can even go with 85W low beams but the fuse gets hot - upgrading it to 16A is safe, I have done it on three of my E28s with no ill effects. 13) The smaller-diameter 535i/535is/M5 3-spoke steering wheel is a pleasure to use and reduces that "city bus" feel. However, if you sit "tall in the saddle" with your head brushing the roof, then the smaller wheel may obscure the top of the gauges. Enjoy the car! - - Rob Levinson '94 M5 3.8 Touring '98 Project X '01 R1200C Ex-'88 M5 Dinan Turbo 3.88 Ex-'85 535i Callaway Turbo Ex-'86 535i Ex-'85 535i ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:47:02 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <all> build dates "Brett Anderson" wrote: >To step in before those that desire to shoot down, in flames, anyone >that appears to >know something about these cars, there have been >many exceptions. > >However, the general rule of thumb is 9/XX is the following year >model. No flames, just an additional exception. My '95 318ti had a 9/95 build date. It had the M42 engine, but had the oil filter design from the M44 engine. I had one parts person swear that it was not possible to have an M42 with the newer style oil filter. I had to drag him out to the car and show it to him. Said a lot about his job expertise... Kevin Rowley ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 08:53:00 -0400 From: Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> M20 blowed up? (LONG) I think I've surpassed my meager wrenching abilities and need to ask a question of the list collective. I have an '88 325is track car. The car has 125k mi on it. When I got the car, it had been poorly maintained. A lot of reconnecting wiring and replacing sensors and it ran well. That is, until it's first track event two weekends ago at VIR (Tarheel BMW -- great event!) The car's always run a bit hot (temp would start to creep up at idle). It lacked an aux fan when I got it, so I installed one. I also backflushed the rad and refilled with 85% distilled water/15% antifreeze and a bottle of water wetter. That seemed to help the problem, but the car still ran a bit warmer than expected in traffic. I was told this was not atypical of the M20 motor. Not sure if it's significant to this problem or not. At the track, the oil light flickered on hard left-handers (turn 3 at VIR, for those of you who know it). A couple E30 owners in the paddock suggested I overfill the car by 1/2 qt, which I did. That solved the problem and the car ran like a champ through the rest of the day. As I returned to the hotel that night, I noticed the oil light flicker at idle. I checked the oil level and looked around the pan and the block for leaks (especially around the sender) and didn't see anything. In the morning, the car made oil pressure at idle and ran just fine until for about 10 miles (or just before I got to the track). Then it started to heat up. But the time I got to the paddock it was running significantly hot (3/4 mark on the gauge) despite my running the heat on full and the aux fan. It started bucking and missing as well. Pulled into the paddock and consulted expert help. Billy Revis heard a bit of rod knock, which he explained is consistent with spun rod bearings thus not making oil pressure at idle. I remember reading somewhere that oil pressure light fires at only 7lbs (!!), so it wasn't making much oil pressure at all. I don't have an oil pressure gauge (will be installed promtly on new motor), so that's the only info I know about pressure. Since I was 5 hours from home and I didn't trailer to the track (gotta get a tow rig!), I left it and retrieved it later. So now I'm trying to decide what to do. It seems certain the motor is hurt somehow, but to what extent? Could it be something as simple as an a pressure relief valve in the oil pump, failing pump, or a pickup tube that fell off? I can pull the pan and see if I find the pickup tube lying in there or bits of metal, but beyond that what useful tests can I do before I pull the motor? What about after? Once the motor is out, should I swap in a good used motor purchased from a used parts source (Bimmerworld, most likely) or attempt to fix the dead one? Hell, is it even reasonable for a backyard mechanic to pull a motor? I'm no master mechanic, but I've done suspensions, brakes, installed cages, seats, and belts, removed and flushed radiators, swapped diffs and shafts, and all the normal maintenance repairs and some bolt-on upgrades. Pulling the motor looks to me like it's all about organization -- make sure you remove and label everything and then be slow and careful while removing it to not destroy it, you, or the car. Is that accurate, or am I in way over my head? I'd like to do as much work as feasible myself. Cost is, of course, a major factor. Time is also a factor -- I'd love to have the car back on the track for MADS Fall 2001 at the beginning of September. Thanks for the advice, and thanks to all those who helped me at the track. Quite a few folks took time out from prepping their own cars to talk with me about mine. I was too focused on the problem at the time to thank them individually, but the help was indeed appreciated. tom philip '94 325is -- black, not broke '88 325is -- bronzit, broke ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2001 09:20:44 -0400 From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] I am now the proud owner of a '87 528e :) Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks wrote: > 5) All E28s have front and rear suspension parts that benefit from upgrading > to other or later parts. Specifically, modified E32 control arm bushings > (call Steve D'G @ The Ultimate Garage) in the front, M5 subframe bushings in > the rear. I specifically asked that of my BMW dealer's parts dude when I was replacing the subframe bushings in my 528e, and he said the replacement bushing is the same regardless of which e28 we were talking about. The ones supplied to me definitely had a more beefy design than the ones which I removed, however (I can't believe the car tracked as well as it did with the old ones... holy worn out parts, Batman...). > 12) Headlights can be upgraded to Hella/Cibie/Bosch units with H1 and H4 > bulbs. Fantastic improvment. Though you didn't mention them, might I suggest steering clear of Autopal high/lows? I purchased a set of their lamps, and while the H1 parts are more than acceptable (I can never again own a car with DOT spec lights...), the low beam pattern of the H4 unit leaves a rather large dark spot directly in front of the car, near the apex of the pattern, and the great degree of separation in aiming of high and low patterns force one to either choose which will be properly aimed, or to compromise on both. FWIW, Daniel Stern cautioned me about this with the Hella units as well, and recommended the Cibie flat face lamps as a solution. I wussed out with the wiring though (sorry, Rob!), and built a complete wiring harness from 14 gauge wire, with 40 amp relays for the 100w high beams (one per pair), and a 30 amp relay for the 80 watt low beams, fused at 20 amps and 15 amps, respectively, with crimped and soldered connections everywhere. I switched the relays from the driver's side high/low connector. I ran into two snags. One was figuring out how to bypass the low beam failure indicator (jumpered the relay which 'senses' and open circuit on one low beam or the other), and the other was shutting the car off with the dimmer in the high position and the headlight switch on, which caused all six filaments to light up. What ended up solving that was to run a resistor across the high beam terminals of the passenger side high/low connector. For some reason, having that circuit open causes that fault under those conditions. ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4051 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Detailwerks Chicago Inc. "Chicago's Premier Automotive Appearance | Center" . http://www.detailwerkschicago.com |==================================================== | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com |==================================================== | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
