[uucdigest] Monday, July 30 2001 Volume 03 : Number 4073 _________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/bmw.html | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Offset measurement? ["Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] Here we go again... [[EMAIL PROTECTED]] [uuc] <FS> Euro E30 M-Technik Steering Wheel [Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@wor] Re:[uuc] Driving to O'Fest - Best Route for Towing [Jim Verrette <jimverr] Re: [uuc] synth oil query [Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] NE1 Interested in Stock M3 exhaust ?? ["JLee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] <FS> 1997 2.8 Z3 [[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Re: [uuc] synth oil query ["Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] WTB: 1995 e36 M3 ["jedinite" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] [uuc] 1989 3/4ton Suburban 4wd/Tow vehicle for sale $7k/Offers. OT ["Davi] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 21:06:26 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Offset measurement? Measure the total width of the wheel. If there is a tire on it include the tire (sidewall to sidewall). Half that is the center of the wheel. Next measure from the inside of the rim or tire to the mounting surface. I just hold the end of a tape measure against the mounting surface, and sight across the inside sidewalls to the tape. Subtract half the first measurement from the second. That is the offset. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Can anyone tell me how to measure wheel offset please? > > Cheers, Tom > > (R) [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:16:52 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Here we go again... Gentlemen... and ladies... I hate to do this again, but could the few of us with E30 and no AC compare notes? I got bored/ambitious today and attacked the dash. End result? No AC yet, but a few things got fixed and I know a lot more about the car. First, let me recap... no that would take to long... let me sum up. I bought this car with a non-functional AC system. Upon further investigation, I determined the following: 1) The AC system has some pressure 2) When you push the snowflake button and have the bottom two sliders over to the right: the light in the button comes on, the blower in the car comes on, the fan on the engine comes on, but the clutch doesn't engage. 3) The clutch doesn't engage if you bypass the low pressure cutoff switch. 4) The clutch does engage if you send 12v to it directly. 5) I couldn't find 12v on any of the wires that go to either of the pressure switches on the drier when the compressor should be on. Today I dug into the dash and determined: 1) The AC/Recirc buttons are fine. 2) The switches in the air control sliders are fine. 3) The white wire that comes off the AC switch goes to the slider switches. (you have no idea how happy it made me to have found both ends of a wire) Things I would like to know: 0) Why doesn't this #$%^$%^ thing work?! 1) Does anyone have a schematic of this? 2) Where does the violet wire on the AC switch go to? 3) Where does the red/green wire from the slider switch go to? 4) Where does the evaporator temperature sensor enter into this? 5) Is it the same as the freeze protection switches? 6) Is there a relay in this mess? Now, before I forget. This is an 87 325i. No fancy electronic AC controls that I can see, but far, far from the AC schematic in the Haynes book. Also, Soes anyone know how the connector for the hazard switch comes apart. One of the wires in it broke off and needs to be reattached. If I can get the contact out I will solder the wire on and put it back. Otherwise, the little light inside of it that glows when the dash lights are on will have to stay off. - -- Joe - -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 20:59:24 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <FS> Euro E30 M-Technik Steering Wheel I have a black leather Euro E30 M-Technik steering wheel for sale, it is brand new, never used or installed in a car: Sports Steering Wheel M-Technik - Schwartz P/N: 32 33 2 226 086 Horn Button - Schwartz P/N: 32 33 2 226 656 Pictures are available. Chris T. 97 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:32:55 +0000 From: Jim Verrette <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re:[uuc] Driving to O'Fest - Best Route for Towing There is a lot of paving work on I95/128 in Mass between the Mass Pike and 93. A lot of it is done but there are still some stretches of grooved pavement which are different everyday and come up unexpectedly. I drive this stretch of 95 every day and the transitions from paved to grooved are not always pleasant If you are getting on to the Mass Pike west of I290, take I290 north to I495 north to 93. This will save you some change on Mass Pike tolls and put you further north on 93. I am not sure how 495 is at rush hour, but it can't be any worse than 128. Getting off the Mass Pike at 290 will help you avoid the mess at the 495 exit on I90. - -Jim > > Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 18:06:57 EDT > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re:[uuc] Driving to O'Fest - Best Route for Towing > > In a message dated 7/29/01 2:46:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, it was written: > > << I'm hoping that somebody can tell > me the best route >> > Take the NJ Pike. Bear in mind, if wind conditions exist they do not allow > you to tow a car or boat. No exceptions. Then you get to discover Rt. 130 and > the Old US 1. > > Take 95 to 287 to 684 (did they rename it)? You want to be on I 84 going > across CT. There are some nasty hills for towing, live with it. The other > alternative is taking I95 to 91. That sucks because there is plenty of night > time paving and road repair going on. If humanly possible, you want to leave > the Metro NY area by 3PM. This gets you past Hartford at a decent time slot. > In the Metro Boston area take the old Rt. 128. They've renamed so many > sections of it I forget what it is called from the Mass Pike north. This area > is murder from 3PM-7PM. Then take I93 and you're almost there. > > I just made the trip from Boston-Key West a week ago (1630 miles, 27 hrs20 > minutes, including a rest stop plus fuel). in a Ryder Truck. This info is > pretty current. And all the tie ups were on the North Bound side. > Michel > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:03:07 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] synth oil query Uh... Kim Henshaw said: >Now, on to Mobil 1. Did you know that this oil is NOT made from a true >synthetic base stock?? It is actually dino oil in disguise!! Which is one of >the reasons why Mobil was involved in a court case in the not-too-distant >past in which it was LEGALLY determined that they are allowed to market a >number of their products as "sythetic" - because they have undergone an >elaborate transformation. However, the truth is that the base material is >still crude oil. From my limited understanding of chemistry I believe what >they do is turn the base stock into a gas then turn it back into a liquid - >ask a chemist how, not me. The point is, a duck is still a duck even after >its been roasted. Yes - if it's a duck. I believe the actual legal case (what I could find of it on the web..) was between Castrol and Mobil.. with Mobil claiming that Castrol Syntec wasn't a real synthetic. I seem to remember after the resolution of the case - that Mobil went to an oil base similar to what Castrol was using. Did some web searching on this case recently due to some interest over on the E39 list, but wasn't able to track down the details. Have my oil specialist friend doing a bit of research into it - he has some contacts that aren't generally available. But - other than that - a duck is still pretty much a duck (minus some feathers) after being roasted. Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/ Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39 ==================================================================== "Parking lots are not an appropriate place.." ==================================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:55:17 -0400 From: "JLee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] NE1 Interested in Stock M3 exhaust ?? Just wondering if anyone is interested in a stock M3 exhaust from a 1998 M3 w/55K miles. Exhaust is in great shape. Looking to get $150.00 and would prefer local Wash DC delivery or pick up. Need to see if someone will buy mine before I buy someone elses aftermarket system. If you interested, reply asap ! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:27:33 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <FS> 1997 2.8 Z3 One more time, then off to the masses... My wife's 1997 2.8 Z3 is for sale. I wanted to post this to the digest before putting it up for sale to the unwashed masses. Here are the details: 1) We are the original owners 2) Hell-red over Tan leather, Tan top 3) 5-speed 4) heated seats 5) 33,226 miles as of Sunday 6) Redline synthetic lubricants throughout (including engine oil) 7) wind deflector 8) CD changer 9) keyless entry/alarm 10) on board computer 11) traction control All books and records. Fluids changed early and often. All original body panels and paint (although it does have some rock chips) Performance Mods (optional -- I have all the original stuff) Koni single adjustable struts/shocks H&R sport springs Toyo RA-1 tires (stock Michelins have lots of tread left) Has never seen snow, salt, earthquakes, tornados, hail, fire, brimstone, or other evil things (well, there was that one encounter with the motorcycle cop...). Believe it or not, we've only been able to get in one autocross with the car... a pity, really. Selling to make room for future M3 acquisition. Priced at $25,500 w/Koni's and H&R's $24,900 in stock configuration (your choice). Please email me directly at <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>. Regards, Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter (that's Las Vegas) '87 325iS #185 K-stock club racer '92 525i (manual) '97 Z3 (for sale) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:19:13 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] synth oil query If you reduce a duck to individual molecules, than break them up and rearrange the parts, you can make something quite different from it. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Now, on to Mobil 1. Did you know that this oil is NOT made from a true > >synthetic base stock?? It is actually dino oil in disguise!! Which is one of > >the reasons why Mobil was involved in a court case in the not-too-distant > >past in which it was LEGALLY determined that they are allowed to market a > >number of their products as "sythetic" - because they have undergone an > >elaborate transformation. However, the truth is that the base material is > >still crude oil. From my limited understanding of chemistry I believe what > >they do is turn the base stock into a gas then turn it back into a liquid - > >ask a chemist how, not me. The point is, a duck is still a duck even after > >its been roasted. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 22:33:03 -0500 From: "jedinite" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WTB: 1995 e36 M3 (Still) looking to purchase a 1995 e36 M3. Car must be one of the following colors: Daytona Violet Dakar Yellow Avus Blue Arctic Silver Cosmos Black (no white, green or red) Manual transmission a must. Absolute maximum mileage ceiling is 70k. Strongly prefer 30k-60k mileage. Prefer a car completely stock (or easily returned to stock), in good condition, with no past accident history. Strongly prefer car without luxury package. Located in Kansas City, MO - car within a day's drive is preferred (zipcode 64113, if Mapquest says 18 hours or less you're within a day's drive) but not a requisite. Shipping is easily arranged. Eric Foster http://bmw.jedinite.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2001 23:59:53 -0400 From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 1989 3/4ton Suburban 4wd/Tow vehicle for sale $7k/Offers. OT Hey all you towing/racer guys. If any body needs a low buck but solid and reliable tow rig.... I'm selling my 1989 K2500 3/4 ton 4wd Suburban. It is a 5.7liter/350 Chevy powered TBI, heavy duty TH400 3 speed slush box, Tranny and engine oil coolers, air conditioned , bench seats, rubber floormats, wind up windows, barn doors, class 3 Draw-tite reciever hitch, Receiver hitch on the front for winch or gear shelf, or front towing / maneuvering. It has a Flowmaster exhaust, and everything works..A/C just recharged! All maintenance is up to date. Price is in the $7k negotiable zone. This truck has a 10,000 lb Tow Capacity/ 8600lb. gvw. It has an electric brake controller, five pin and flat plug wiring as well. Truck looks good, and runs extremely well. It is a serious highway cruiser..loves to run 75-80. It has 78,000 miles on it, it is very straight, and is extremely mechanically tight! It has had new GM front fenders, and new rear rockers...all the normal Suburban rust zones have been recently fixed and painted, and the paint is nice. It is a two tone blue paint,almost electric blue, three year old paint, with textured black below the lower body trim. The frame is really solid, and the running gear is nice. Rear windows are heavily tinted. This is really a rig you can buy and immediately use..it isn't a project..I use it for hauling around my #3,000 lb boat a few times a season, and for filling up with my family , bikes and everything else we can think of, and going to the lake cottage on the Canadian border, so it is definitly a reliable unit. Your race car won't mess with you in a crosswind with this beast! The truck is in Portland Maine . I'd certainly help figure out delivery in New England if anyone is interested. Portland is about 2hrs fom NHIS if anyone at O'fest wants it. There are a lot of old Suburbans out there, but most of this vintage have well over 150k miles on them, are rusted, and badly in need of paint, and have been worked very hard. I bought it from an old guy who had put 45k miles on it ..in ten years! This truck has led a pretty easy life. This is a good one due to the fact that I'm an incurable motorhead, and I fixed everything that needs fixing over the last three years that I've owned it. Shocks, brakes, exhaust, body work, paint, A/C hoses/recharged this year, heater core, alternator, starter, belts, hoses, plugs/ wires, filters, tranny fluid and filter, steering damper etc . I bought it from an old guy who had put 45k miles on it ..in ten years! I was planning on keepin it forever..but....... I am selling it because I just bought a 1993 1/2 ton cushy Suburban Yuppie model, with third back seat, rear air, etc, as this is more people hauler oriented, and my wife bought the idea! (Isn't that right in the spirit of UUC'dom?) 88 735i 91 325ic OBMWC! David Leonard [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4073 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Detailwerks Chicago Inc. "Chicago's Premier Automotive Appearance | Center" . http://www.detailwerkschicago.com |==================================================== | Koala MotorSport . 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