[uucdigest]          Tuesday, August 7 2001          Volume 03 : Number 4110



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

  Re: [uuc] Anyone have a 1985-1987 M motor for sale?  ["Michael Lawrence" <]
  [uuc] '95 M3 Not Shifty Enough    [Larry Franks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  [uuc] Re: Project X                ["Jason McCowan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] '95 M3 Not Shifty Enough  [Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <rob@sh]
  RE: [uuc] Any Experience with Looong Oil Light??  [Don Eilenberger <deilen]
  [uuc] Another Emergency Brake question  [Neil Deshpande <neildeshpande@yah]
  [uuc] Said/Stuck win                                       [[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  RE: [uuc] Another Emergency Brake question  ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <]
  [uuc] spoiler - PTG  ["Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <robert.fuerst@sylvania.]
  Re: [uuc] MTL (was: '95 M3 Not Shifty Enough)  [Patrick Burns <patrick@lif]
  [uuc] Diff swap-the easy way!     ["Bill Mitchell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>]
  Re: [uuc] Re: Project X  [Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <rob@shortshifter.]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 23:09:00 -0700
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Anyone have a 1985-1987 M motor for sale?

are you looking to replace it with a real M motor as in a S-38 which came in
the M5/ M635?   Or do you want a stock euro 3.4L that came in it?   I might
know of a donor motor out of a euro 635.

Mike
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 7:35 PM
Subject: [uuc] Anyone have a 1985-1987 M motor for sale?


> Looking for a replacement motor for
> a 1980 M535i....
>
> Steve
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 20:29:05 -0700
From: Larry Franks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] '95 M3 Not Shifty Enough

Gruppe:

Our '95 M3 with 85K on it is getting balky about getting into
2nd gear.  Oddly, it is OK cold, and gets harder when fully
warmed up.  It got downright annoying on the track last month.

Any thoughts?  It got RedLine MTL at 70K when we got the car . . .
Please respond off-Digest as well - I don't always get to them
quickly.

TIA,

Larry Franks
Issaquah, Washington

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 23:16:16 -0400
From: "Jason McCowan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Project X

Ron K. says:

<snip>

> No, Rob's a 5-er man; a true Geezer!
>
> So, a 98 5-er with a similar power to weight ratio as his old turbo M5.
> I say it's not the V8 540, but a turbo project 528. I'd guess 350 hp is
> possible in a nicely built 2.8 turbo and the 528 is lighter than the 540
> or M5 giving it performance probably somewhere in between those two.
> Price could be reasonable with 528s going for much less than the V8
> cars.

allow me to further speculate :O)  seeing as rob is trying to relive the joy
that the ~450hp M5 brought, i doubt he'd do so w/ a car w/ over 100hp less.
i haven't caught all of this thread, but has he even said that it's gonna be
a bmw?  so far we know that he's building a '98 vehicle, that "major
components" are being modified, and that it's going to have monster power.
my guess is that it's not going to be an E39, or an E36 M3...any clues,
Rob??

- -jason mccowan
ncc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 23:54:05 -0400
From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] '95 M3 Not Shifty Enough

Here's a thought; dump the MTL and use ATF, specifically Redline D4
Synthetic ATF.

The M3 transmission is _not_ supposed to use MTL.  It says "Use synthetic
ATF" on a metal plate bolted to the bottom of the transmission, so I am
fairly confident that is what BMW intends.

The Redline stuff can sometimes work miracles on BMW transmissions.

- - Rob

> From: Larry Franks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] '95 M3 Not Shifty Enough
> 
> Our '95 M3 with 85K on it is getting balky about getting into
> 2nd gear.  Oddly, it is OK cold, and gets harder when fully
> warmed up.  It got downright annoying on the track last month.
> 
> Any thoughts?  It got RedLine MTL at 70K when we got the car . . .
> Please respond off-Digest as well - I don't always get to them
> quickly.
> 
> Larry Franks
> Issaquah, Washington

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 00:31:26 -0400
From: Don Eilenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Any Experience with Looong Oil Light??

Chris - although he suggested private, is outted, and I'll take
a stab at it..

>During the past month, I have just noticed that my oil light is now
>taking about 5-6 sec. to go out after starting my car.  Does anyone have
>any experience re: possible causes/cures?
>
>My car is a 95 325is with ~117k.  After the oil light goes out, the oil
>pressure comes up to normal (~60 psi).  If I start the car within 10-15,
>the oil light goes out in less than a sec (just like it used to).  If I
>wait 1-2 hours, it takes the long 5 sec before it goes out.
>
>Net, the oil pressure is acting as like it does after I have just
>changed the oil and it's taking a few seconds to pump the oil throughout
>the engine.  Only it's now doing it all the time whenever the car sits
>for 1+ hr.
>
>No need to waste bandwidth for the entire group -- private replys more
>than OK.
>
>Thanks for your help!
>
>Chris Bernhardt
>'95 325is

KISS - (Keep-It-Simple-Stupid) before looking at the really complex
things..

Try replacing the oil-pressure-light sender. These go bad. Slow
response is the first symptom..  you mention oil-pressure.. can
we assume you've added a gauge?

If so - and the symptoms above are gauge readings.. I'd be
looking at the oil-filter O ring (if it's like the M50 engine
on my old E34).. the tiny one on the end of the long bolt that holds
the oil-filter cover on. This O ring prevents the filter from
draining back into the engine (until you take the bolt out..
then it drains back intentionally since you're changing the
oil).

If the O ring is leaking - the filter may drain down
some slowly when the car isn't being run..  which would account
for the time dependence of your symptoms. Less time = less
drained, more time = more drained. Easy one..

KISS! (And only in the nicest way :-)


Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ JMP#1  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
NJ Shore BMW Riders web page: http://www.njsbmwr.org/
Moderator BMW E39 Enthusiast Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bmwe39
====================================================================
          "Parking lots are not an appropriate place.."
====================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 22:07:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Another Emergency Brake question

Dave:

"Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
"Thanks to some advice from Neil D - we made up a
screw/spacer/washer/nut affair instead of replacing
the
backing plate (which seems to entail destroying the
wheel bearing, among other aggravations)."

Glad it worked out.  The rear wheel bearing R&R is
indeed a pain.  Just ask Jack Money!

"Now for the question. To put it all back together, I
had to back off the emergency brake adjustments at the
handle all the way, as well as the little adjuster
inside the brake drum. Even at that setting, the rotor
was a slightly tight fit over the shoes. This was
identical on both sides of the car. I'm assuming that
it will shortly wear in, but this seemed like a pretty
tight fit. Is this normal? I used Balo rotors and
Bilstein e-brake parts from Steve D. The emergency
brake (in fact all the brakes) seems to work fine,
much better than it ever did before."

I used Balo rotors at $22 each delivered from
http://www.bimmerparts.com.  I replaced the cables
with used parts and the e-brake components (mine were
salt rusted).  I too found the brakes pretty tight,
but in about 2-4 days of driving it is now too loose
by a bit.  Just give it a few days.  I'll probably
readjust (the shoes not the handle) shortly to make it
about 6-7 clicks on the handle.  You don't want to
mess too much with the handle side if you have nylocs.
 Brett Anderson confirmed that nylocs may tear up the
threads.

BTW, it is really nice to have the e-brake.  I use it
all the time now!

Neil Deshpande
http://www.neilwerke.com

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 06:47:52 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Said/Stuck win

Hey everyone,

How come I haven't seen anything about the Portland win in the Milner PTG M3 
this past weekend?...ok to "crow" by now I hope<g>.

Wouldn't you just love to meet Hans?....he seems like such a likeable guy! He 
could tell stories about racing all night long I bet over a few (or lots of) 
beers <g>.

Boris Said also really promotes ///M Power!!!  

Oh well, off to the daily grind....

John Weese
BMW CCA #76646
'88 ///M5
'72tii,'73tii,'74,'76 '02's

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 07:03:48 -0400 
From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Another Emergency Brake question

Dave, did you do a few stops using the parking brake?
I bet if you "set" the pads it will be OK. Check them
for temperature or a visual inspection afterwards to make
sure they are not dragging. I put on new pads and cables
on my old rotors and did not have to touch the adjusters
but also had no tight fit. If there is still a problem you could
probably mill off some of the metal where the pads pivot on
the top or bottom. How many "clicks" do you have now?

1st

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Swingle [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> 
> 
> Now for the question. To put it all back together, I had to
> back off the emergency brake adjustments at the handle all
> the way, as well as the little adjuster inside the brake
> drum. Even at that setting, the rotor was a slightly tight
> fit over the shoes. This was identical on both sides of the
> car. I'm assuming that it will shortly wear in, but this
> seemed like a pretty tight fit. Is this normal? I used Balo
> rotors and Bilstein e-brake parts from Steve D. The
> emergency brake (in fact all the brakes) seems to work fine,
> much better than it ever did before.
> 
> Dave Swingle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 07:43:09 -0400 
From: "Fuerst, Robert C. (Chris)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] spoiler - PTG

Thanks Weese!!!!! 















> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 6:48 AM
> To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject:      [uuc] Said/Stuck win
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> How come I haven't seen anything about the Portland win in the Milner PTG
> M3 
> this past weekend?...ok to "crow" by now I hope<g>.
> 
> Wouldn't you just love to meet Hans?....he seems like such a likeable guy!
> He 
> could tell stories about racing all night long I bet over a few (or lots
> of) 
> beers <g>.
> 
> Boris Said also really promotes ///M Power!!!  
> 
> Oh well, off to the daily grind....
> 
> John Weese
> BMW CCA #76646
> '88 ///M5
> '72tii,'73tii,'74,'76 '02's

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 08:03:23 -0400
From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] MTL (was: '95 M3 Not Shifty Enough)

Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks wrote:

> The Redline stuff can sometimes work miracles on BMW transmissions.

True enough!

When I picked up my '86 528e with 179k on the clock, first gear's synchro was
totally shot (had to stop the input shaft by shifting in to some other gear
before I could shift into first at a stop), and second gear would grind unless I
double clutched almost perfectly on downshifts (oddly, it wouldn't grind on
upshifts even if I didn't double clutch). I changed the fluid during my initial
prep of the car (tensioner and belt, water pump, front wheel bearings, rotors
and pads, blah blah blah) with the recommended fluid, no difference. Last
winter, I was ordering some parts, and figured I may as well give MTL a shot, so
added that to the list of junk. Changed the fluid... small improvement. I wasn't
terribly impressed.

However, over the next month or so, the tranny got progressively better, and now
about 10k after switching to MTL, with 211k on the clock, second gear is almost
like new (I can't even recall the last time I heard it grind), and first gear is
much, much better. It's not perfect, but for ~$15...

FWIW: I initially purchased the '88 5 speed parts car to use its tranny... then
I found out while I crawling around under it that the different Motronic netted
a change in the TDC and crank speed sensor mounting points on the bellhousing,
which makes the '88's tranny useless to me unless I swap out the innards. Grr.

Anyway, I'm a skeptic at heart... pour some special oil in and have it work
better... HA! Oh, wait... it works... :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 07:39:27 -0700
From: "Bill Mitchell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Diff swap-the easy way!

I've had a 4.10 LSD sitting on my workbench since November waiting for
the "right"moment to install in my '90 325is.  Well, my son came home
from school for a few days this weekend, and yesterday afternoon when I
got home from work he jacked up my car and started taking the stock diff
out.  I had a meeting to attend, and when I left he had just set the old
diff on the floor.  I returned about an hour and fifteen minutes later
and he was wiping his hands after lowering the car.

Now that was an easy install!!

Bill-banger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 08:48:20 -0400
From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Project X

> From: "Jason McCowan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> allow me to further speculate :O)  seeing as rob is trying to relive the joy
> that the ~450hp M5 brought, i doubt he'd do so w/ a car w/ over 100hp less.
> i haven't caught all of this thread, but has he even said that it's gonna be
> a bmw?  ...any clues, Rob??
> -jason mccowan
> ncc

Two things:

1) That M5 was 475hp, not 450hp.  That 5.5% difference is important for
climbing hills or strong a/c.  ;-)

2) It's a BMW.

- - Rob

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #4110
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