[uucdigest]          Monday, January 6 2003          Volume 03 : Number 5998



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Re: Question for Brett on E38 Trans fluid change
       RE: [uuc] Wheel straightening experiences
       [uuc] FS: E46 M3
       [uuc] Re: Nashville or bust
       [uuc] Re: Air Compressors
       [uuc] OT: Dodge Tomahawk
       [uuc] Re: compressors
       [uuc] January Roundel?
       Re: [uuc] January Roundel?
       Re: [uuc] OT: Dodge Tomahawk
       [uuc] <E28> Need Diagnostic Help.. Solutions.. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 15:05:34 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: Question for Brett on E38 Trans fluid change

"Bailey Taylor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Alex,
> I see your point and share your cautious attitude. Still, I can't
> believe that the Unocal/Castrol/Texaco Dexron III oils differ in any
> significant way from any other name brand Dexron III oil. The Castrol
> site is silent as to BMW approval for both its synthetic and
> conventional  Dexron lll oils. Ditto for Texaco and Unocal. And GM
> Powertrain calls for Dexron lll, period:
> http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/transmissions/5l40_main.htm
> #applications

Bailey,
Logically, I agree with you. 
There has been a lot of hysteria on the subject of BMW/GM tranny longevity 
with lifetime fluids. Since I'm not a petroleum chemist and don't even 
play one on TV, I am reluctant to declare that BMW specified Dextron III 
fluid is no different than the Mobil 1/RedLine equivalents. 
The underlying problems is that auto-tranny rebuild is north of $3K and is 
not something I am conformably DIY-ing.

> Now, here's another question: Assuming one wanted to do the drain and
> fill themselves- what would be wrong with draining the the old ATF into
> a graduated container and simply refilling the transmission with exactly
> the same amount? Discuss...;)

You can't drain all of the old fluid out. The tranny and torque converter 
pans hold about 5 out of 10-12 total quarts of fluid in the system. 
The rest stays in the cooler, the lines and god knows where else. Unless 
you hook up to the dealer tranny fluid flushing machine, you will wind up 
with a mix of 50% old BMW fluid and 50% new Dexron III. If the two mix 
nicely without any expensive side effects, great. Since I'm yet to hear of 
any horror stories on the subject, I suspect that's exactly the case. 
Still, I would rather get all of the old fluid out of the tranny than just 
some of it.

alex f

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:14:10 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] Wheel straightening experiences

AFAIK, the fee is fixed for a wheel straightening, regardless of material composition. 
 I was never worried about the $10, I just wanted to know which shop I'd get the best 
result from.

Like BMW, I believe a new replacement wheel would be around $400-$500.  Unlike BMW, 
however, there is not a prolific supply of non-dealer retailers (think BavAuto, etc.), 
or a large classified market.  Volvo owners are less prone to wanton wheel replacement 
than we are, so the market among 850R owners is smaller than say, among M3 owners.  
Coupled with the fact that there were only around 2,000 1996 R's imported, my hopes of 
finding a good used wheel are slim.

The two straightening prices I've received were $90 and $100, so that will clearly be 
my best option.

Neil


In a message dated 1/6/2003 3:16:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 10:47:12 -0800
> From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: RE: [uuc] Wheel straightening experiences
> 
> Neil,
> 
> I think you had better get an estimated charge for repair of a magnesium wheel
> before worrying about $10 differences. Working magnesium is 
> much different than
> working aluminum.
> It may be cheaper to get a new wheel.
> 
> - -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:13:42 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] FS: E46 M3

on 1/6/03 3:16 PM, "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> New long blocks are in the $3000 range at the dealer (with discount).

Some assembly required <g>

I've seen the text of an alleged BMW extended warranty document for the S54
engine, dated 12/2002, which says among other things:

"To further strengthen your confidence in your BMW and assure you of our
commitment, we will extend the warranty on the above referenced vehicle
identification number for all internal mechanical engine components that are
lubricated by engine oil to 6 years or 100,000 miles whichever comes first.
Enclosed is a copy of the extended warranty statement for your records.
Please insert this page into your Service and Warranty booklet, as it is
transferable to any subsequent owner.

We continue to recommend that you only use BMW approved SAE10W-60 synthetic
oil in your engine."

However I can't vouch for its authenticity. Maybe one of you E46 M3 owners
might like to check with a dealer.

Neil
96 M3

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 16:03:06 -0500
From: "Kathy Lyle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Nashville or bust

Club Racing has been completely financially self-sufficient since BMW CCA gave
it some seed money at its inception, back in 1995 or so.  I don't know where
your $50,000 number comes from.

Oktoberfest lost money because we failed to meet our room guarantees, mainly
because members chose to stay off the property to save money.  It's my
understanding that the host chapter negotiated those room guarantees because
it enabled them to receive comp'd rooms for chapter members during the event.
This negotiation will be handled by National in the future.

Kathy

>Remember ...last years BMW  CCA Ofest LOST about $39,000 of >members funds
...roughly $40 per attendee ??....and the board gets to vote >that away (read
the minutes folks !!..particularly the addenda ) and possibly
>do it again this year in Austin and next year in ...? And give $50,000
>to the Club racing programme ....(900 registered racers , 400 active
>..do the math ..) .
- ----
Kathryn M. Lyle, CPA, CVA
Lyle & Associates CPA
www.lylecpa.com
Creating Business Value

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 13:56:57 -0800 (PST)
From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Air Compressors

Ideally, you want to have your lights on separate
circuits from your tool.  Nothing like 
holding a 15,000 rpm cutoff wheel in your hands
when the breaker pops and the lights go out.

Yehaa!


> > BTW -- the compressor I described does run on a
> 20amp breaker -- it also
> > dims all the power in the garage when it kicks in.
> 
>  That's why I re-wired mine to run on 220V instead. 
> It dims the
> lights a lot less since it only needs half the
> current on startup.


=====
David Kroth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 13:55:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] OT: Dodge Tomahawk

Have any of our Detroit members seen this at the auto show:

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&ncid=581&e=3&cid=581&u=/nm/20030106/tc_nm/autos_show_dodge_dc

It's basically the Dodge Viper engine with 4 wheels attached.

- --Andre

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 13:57:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: compressors

Gary:

I thought motors used caps to correct the power factor
and compensate for the inherent inductance of the
motor coils.  If a motor was pure inductance you would
have zero watts consumed and pay no elec bill on the
watt meter while still loading the current generation
capacity of the grid/generators.

For lag, use CIVIL.  Caps imply I before V while
inductors imply V before I.  <grin>.

Neil Deshpande - not missing the mugging days of old!

***

"Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm not a motor expert, but I thought the capacitors
delayed one phase of the motor to apply a starting torque.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 13:59:03 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] January Roundel?

I still haven't received mine (SF Bay Area).
Should I call and ask for a resend!

Bora

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 14:10:36 -0800
From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] January Roundel?

At 01:59 PM 1/6/03, [EMAIL PROTECTED] talked about:
>I still haven't received mine (SF Bay Area).
>Should I call and ask for a resend!

Probably not yet.

Mine generally arrives during the second week of any month, and given the 
fact that we've just come out of one of the busiest times of the year for 
mail, I'd say give a bit.

Jim Bassett

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 16:11:55 -0600
From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] OT: Dodge Tomahawk

0-Death in 2.3 seconds.

Andre Yew wrote:

>Have any of our Detroit members seen this at the auto show:
>
>http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&ncid=581&e=3&cid=581&u=/nm/20030106/tc_nm/autos_show_dodge_dc
>
>It's basically the Dodge Viper engine with 4 wheels attached.
>
>--Andre
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 18:55:23 -0500
From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Need Diagnostic Help.. Solutions.. 

Ok , Thank you for everyones opinions and offerings of advice

So far I have been given a broad list of possibilities, ranging from bad
connections to a bad ECU.

What I am going to do is start at the cheapest route, Cleaning
contacts(dielectric grease, and contact cleaner on all the electrical
components under the hood), Then I will check for vacuum leaks, since this
seems to be a possibility that is pretty sensible, then I will change the
main relay, change the fuel filter (which one?  There seems to be one under
the hood just before the FPR, and apparently one under the chassis
somewhere.

The only issue is that I live in Toronto Canada, and we just recieved a
dumping of over 1 foot of snow, and working outside in these conditions is
very undesirable.  Oh, how I wish this would have happened while I was in
Florida.  the warm weather would have made the repairs more tolerable.

Anyone with some warm working space up here?

Cheers
Ron J
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Shaun Dustin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 10:40 AM
Subject: RE:<E28> Need Diagnostic Help.. 535i running rough


> Ron,
>
> Sounds suspiciously like maybe a fuel filter (best case), or a fuel pump,
> but I would be inclined to replace the filter first. A crapped up fuel
> filter will do what you describe, and although I'm not familiar with the
> e-28 per se, I've felt similar symptoms in old VWs, pickups, and my '91
> e-30. Comes from bad gas (we get a lot of that in rural Idaho), running
your
> tank too low (fillup will suspend sediment on the bottom of the tank),
etc.
> Unless someone else comes up with a better answer, I'd replace it and see
> what happens. A bad filter will stress your fuel pump by raising system
> pressure between the filter and the pump, and accelerate wear on the pump.
> It can also cause your engine to run lean, unless BMWs have electronices
to
> prevent that???. On old VWs, it usually ends up meaning a burnt valve in
my
> experience.
>
>
> Shaun Dustin, PE
> Intrepid Technology and Resources
> 501 West Broadway
> Ste 200
> Idaho Falls, ID 83402
> 208-529-5337
> www.intrepid21.com
>
> Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 11:06:40 -0500
> From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: <E28> Need Diagnostic Help.. 535i running rough
>
> Hi All,
>
> Well after a long drive back from Fort Myers FLA, and a good nights sleep,
I
> wanted to ask for some diagnostic help.  Here is the background.
>
> I have recently replaced my Feul Pressure Regulator with a brand new Bosch
> unit, due to rough idle, and engine missing during driving. It solved the
> problems, and the car ran much better.  I have also replaced my ICV with a
> brand new Bosch unit.  Both within the last 3 weeks.  The ICV was replaced
> on New Years Day.
>
> I drove all the way down to Florida with the new FPR (replaced before I
left
> here to go) and the car was fine all the way down except for the IVC
getting
> stuck everyonce in a while (I would pull over whenever it got stuck and
tap
> on it with a wrench and the car would stop the surging RPM and settle).
> While I was in florida, the car was fine, save the ICV issue.  We drove to
> Key West, all over the Everglades, into Fort Myers, Naples, and a few
other
> places.  No problems.  While I was there I decided to replace the ICV and
> ordered a Bosch Unit from thepartsbin.com.  It took a few days to arrive
and
> I replaced the old one with the new and the surging idle/high idle went
> away.   I thought this would have solved my problems, however it didnt.
>
> On the way back the car started to behave strangely.  It initially started
> when the car was idling.  It would stay at the normal idle speed, and then
> all of a sudden on its own surge up to 1500 rpm, and stay there steady.
If
> you tried to hit the gas the car would almost stall out.  Then the RPM
would
> settle down and the car would be fine.  Then in Kentucky I pulled into a
> subway to grab a snack for our 6 year old passenger.  When we got back
out,
> the car wouldn't start, like it was out of gas, even though we had a full
> tank.  I continued to turn the engine over and the car finally started up,
> and we drove away.  Then while on the highway in 5th gear running at about
> 2000-3000 rpm doing about 70 mph, the car would start to stumble, like it
> was either losing spark or running out of gas, and then catch again.  I
also
> noticed the fuel consumption guage start to act strangely.  Just before
the
> car would start to act strangely, the feul consumption guage would start
to
> climb up really high.  (The car has metric guages so its measured in
> litres/100kms.  1 gallon is approx 3.8 litres, and 1 km is approx 0.6
> miles. ) the guage would swing from a normal 9 ltrs/100kms to over 25/100,
> and then the car would stumble.  This makes me think that the car is being
> fed too much gas.  I dont know how that guage works, or what it measures
for
> its calculation.  But its saying that the feul consumption is way off the
> chart whenever the stumbling starts.    The car would do this
intermittently
> all the way back to Toronto Canada.  Sometimes it would do this steadily
for
> 10 min and the sometimes only 1 or two times in 20 min.  It wasnt
> consistent, and the only precursor was the feul consumption guage.
>
> Whenever we stopped I left the car running since I didnt want to have the
> issue of a non start.  While it would sit there, the idle would be fine
and
> then jump up all on its own to 1500-2000 rpm and again if you hit the gas
it
> would almost stall out, unless you quickly let off.
>
> this happened to me once before and it was recommended that it was my FPR,
> so I have a new one, so I dont think its the FPR.  The stumbling during
> driving is hard on the entire drive train since its jerky and immediate
loss
> of power and then just as immediate return, and sometimes its on and off a
> few times in a few seconds, which resembles a jack rabbit start when
someone
> doesnt know how to drive standard.  So I know there is stress on the
crank,
> transmission, driveshaft, and rear end, among other things.
>
> Is there anyone that can suggest a solution or offer any advice?
>
> Cheers
> Ron Jordan
> 85 535i
> 73 911s 2.7
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of bmw-digest V9 #2329
> **************************
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #5998
***************************

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