[uucdigest]        Wednesday, January 8 2003        Volume 03 : Number 6003



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] anyone know this car ?
       Re: [uuc] FS: E46 M3
       Re: [uuc] E30 SS Brake lines 86' vs 89'
       [uuc] Re: Wheel straightening experiences
       [uuc] E34 Broken Radiator Drain Bolt
       [uuc] WTB: oem E30 M3 springs
       [uuc] E36 stereo questions
       [uuc] Re: Wheel straightening experiences
       [uuc] Re: Wheel straightening experiences
       RE: [uuc] FW: Re: Ofest comp rooms?
       RE: [uuc] FW: Re: Ofest comp rooms?
       Re: [uuc] thinking about buying a 95 M3: advice wanted!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 08:44:02 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] anyone know this car ?

E30 M3 w/euro 3.2l motor on eBay :

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&mfcisapicommand=ViewItem&item=1876488213>

the car is somewhere in Florida, but I haven't gotten any response from
the seller to a couple of questions I had for him/her.

I'm curious as to who did the conversion work & some other details.



Ben
not going to buy it, already has enough cars...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 16:01:22 -0600
From: "Eric ///M Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] FS: E46 M3

> However I can't vouch for its authenticity.

I can confirm.   Neil's text is almost word-for-word what the extended
warranty document reads (I got a copy in the mail a few days ago).

- -Eric ///M Foster
http://performify.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 08:18:07 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 SS Brake lines 86' vs 89'

SS brake lines should be replaced periodically as dirt gets in the braid and
wears it out.  Also the braid wears against itself.

AFAIK an 89 E30 has the same brake lines as an 86.

Gary Derian


> Ok this weekend I was taking parts off my totaled car
> and getting them in order for installaton in my new 89
> 325i. I had SS brake lines on my 86 325e, and would
> like to put these on the 89. I pretty sure I can use
> the front lines. But on the rear of my 86 there is a
> line that goes from the caliper the the trailing arm,
> then another from the tranling arm unto the body. My
> question is can I use the short rear line on the 89?
> Or do I have to just get rid of  the 86' and buy new
> ones for the 89?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kyle Sanchez
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
> http://mailplus.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 09:44:55 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: Wheel straightening experiences

Bill,

If you read through the straightening section on http://www.rimandwheelworks.com 
you'll find that welding is not used to straighten a wheel.  Check out the pictures on 
this page, and see if you notice the damaged rim section I'm talking about in the 
final picture.  When you see the step-by-step of how they do it, you'll understand how 
it was damaged.

In the first website you list below, the repair shown (involving welding/machining of 
additional material) is for a wheel with a portion of its rim missing.  My wheel, 
fortunately, has not sustained such major damage.  It's just a mild flattening of the 
rim curvature.

Neil

In a message dated 1/7/2003 11:24:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

> Wheel repair is *metallurgy* not  backyard hack mechanic stuff...
> They WELD material back on the the wheel, and then recut it back the original
> shape, and then they use a a C and C machine to due the final finish...
> 
> http://www.wheeltechniques.com/repair/repair.html
> 
> See some of the following vendors...
>  http://www.wheelcollision.com/
>  http://fixrim.com/ 
>  http://www.wheeltechniques.com/
> 
> They repair the ENTIRE wheel, not just one part of it... If you 
> do not get back a wheel that looks like  brand new, then have 
> them re-do it.. but I doubt that will be needed..  Also.. most 
> of these places will give you the option of 
> 1) getting back YOUR wheel  -  generally 24 hr turnaround 
> 2) exchange with receiving another wheel that  they have repaired and in stock 
>     done as an immediate swap. 
> 
> Any wheel repairer worth it's salt will guarantee the repaired wheel
> for the life of your ownership of the car..    
> 
> now.. the only problem you may have, is that the repaired wheel
> looks *SO* shiny and new , but the other three are all dingy...  :-(  
> Occasionally, there are cars with wheels with an odd finish on it, like
> shadow chrome, or the E36 M3 CSL polished  wheels, and if so, I highly
> recommend sending all 4 wheels so that they are all the same...
> 
> 
> 
> Mark Williams 
> Dallas, TX
> claim rep by day - seen literally THOUSANDS of wheels go to wheel repair
>       centers - RARELY, if ever,  do I have complaints.. 
> '91 ///M 2.5L
> '93 Honda Accord with 4 wheels refinished by wheels America
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 11:10:03 -0500
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [uuc] Wheel straightening experiences
> 
> Chris,
> 
> Thanks for the response.  The website format doesn't concern me (I was just pointing 
>out to that poster that both company's sites were less than stellar).  I'm not asking 
>them to straighten out my URL. 
> 
> Did your wheels come back with any scratching on them from the straightening tools?  
>That's my primary concern - that I'll get back a round wheel with a substantial gouge 
>through 
> the finish.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Neil

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 08:52:04 -0600
From: "Robert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E34 Broken Radiator Drain Bolt

Fellow Digestors,

The plastic radiator drain bolt on my '90 535i came out fine. Went back in
with no apparant difficulty but twisted off about 1/3 down the shaft. (No, I
wasn't ham-fisted with it).  The remaining 2/3 or so of thread is keeping
the coolant in for now. Dealer has a replacement, but how the heck do I get
the old bit out?  I've got a bolt extraction set, but will it work on
plastic? Also, should I replace the plastic part with a metal one?

Cheers,
Robert

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 09:59:03 -0500
From: "Luis Rueda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] WTB: oem E30 M3 springs

Anybody out there has a set of used oem E30 M3 springs
in good condition that wants to get rid off?

Or a set of Bilstein sports in good condition for an E30
325?

Please respond directly.

Thank you,

Luis
'86 325e
'86 325 soon to be "is"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 10:04:37 -0500
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 stereo questions

Hello group,

I'm in the process of installing an aftermarket head unit in my '94
325i.  Now that I spent a couple hours soldering connections, I'll ask
some questions that could've saved me some work:

- - I bought my head unit (Sony CDX-M630) at a store and called
Crutchfield for harnesses, etc..  Crutchfield told me I needed a unit to
convert the Sony's speaker outputs to the appropriate level for the
factory amp.  I did so, and soldered the Sony harness to the unit's
input and the unit's output to the Crutchfield harness for the factory
plug.  I've since read that this unit is not necessary.  True?  I'm not
sure how everything is going to fit back there...

- - I pulled out my factory unit last night just to get a look back there.
I spent a couple of minutes trying to get the wiring connector off the
back of the unit but was unsuccessful.  I see that you pull up on the
plastic cover, but it only moves up a bit, which doesn't seem to be
enough to get it clear of the connector.  Do I just need to pull harder?
Seemed like something would break.  What am I missing here?  Everything
I can find says "Loosen screws, pull out radio, remove connectors".

- - Any other suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris Baker
'94 325i

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 09:15:29 -0600
From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Wheel straightening experiences

<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1">
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
Neil,<br>
<br>
Who is Bill???<br>
In the case of straightening, they'll heat up the rim to re-shape it, but
I &nbsp;would bet<br>
you a dollar&nbsp; they'll repair any and all nicks in it as well while they have
it!.<br>
Nuff said! &nbsp;<br>
<br>
<br>
Mark Williams<br>
Dallas, TX<br>
 '91 ///M3 21.5L <br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="[EMAIL PROTECTED]">
  <pre wrap="">Bill,

If you read through the straightening section on <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
href="http://www.rimandwheelworks.com";>http://www.rimandwheelworks.com</a> you'll find 
that welding is not used to straighten a wheel.  Check out the pictures on this page, 
and see if you notice the damaged rim section I'm talking about in the final picture.  
When you see the step-by-step of how they do it, you'll understand how it was damaged.

In the first website you list below, the repair shown (involving welding/machining of 
additional material) is for a wheel with a portion of its rim missing.  My wheel, 
fortunately, has not sustained such major damage.  It's just a mild flattening of the 
rim curvature.

Neil</pre>
  <pre wrap="">
  </pre>
</blockquote>
</body>
</html>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 10:21:40 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: Wheel straightening experiences

Sorry, I was rushing my reply, and I assumed the William in "williamh" was your first 
name.  I didn't take the time to scroll down to your signature.  My apologies.  :)

In a message dated 1/8/2003 10:15:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

> Neil,
> 
> Who is Bill???

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 10:22:57 -0500
From: "Dave Kelley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] FW: Re: Ofest comp rooms?

> At 5:41 PM -0800 1/7/03, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >If some people got free rooms at O'Fest based on a comp formula, let me
> >be the first to say that this would clearly be a violation of my trust on
> >the BMWCCA.
> >
> >We are a volunteer organization and if an ordinary member pays to come to
> >O'Fest, everybody else should pay too.
> >
> >There must be some records to this, where are they?
> 
> I have no problem with a chair or even committee chairs being comp'ed.
> If someone is willing to spend months preparing for an event, that is 
> a small price for me to pay. I am only too happy to volunteer for a 
> few hours during Ofest. A whole week, I don't know if I could do it. 
> These people who chair the events work hard at keeping us 
> entertained. No matter how hard they try, someone will give them 
> grief.
> 
> I'm already helping a chapter almost 3 years in advance!
> 
> When Phil asks all of the volunteers to stand at the awards banquet, 
> if there is no one sitting, I will reconsider my opinion.
> 
> ...steven
> 

I agree with Steven. If an "ordinary member" wants to get a room 
comped, let them volunteer and spend potentially 100's of hours of 
their own time working on the event. There is a big difference 
between the "ordinary members" and those who dedicate so much 
of their time for free! I have no problem with those people who 
volunteer so much of their time getting their rooms comped. There 
has to be some compensation for their efforts. 

So to those people who complain about rooms being comped, go 
out and run and event and then you can get your rooms comped 
also!

Dave Kelley
BMWCCA #199542

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 09:34:48 -0600
From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] FW: Re: Ofest comp rooms?

I would agree - if the comp rooms are for volunteers. Man, what a thankless
job :-)  If something goes wrong you get blamed, if everything goes well most
folks don't even notice you.  If someone works hard to organize and put on
the event, putting them up for free does not seem like a bad idea. Make the
volunteers mad, and you have a real hard time putting on ANY event.

Dennis

At 12:43 AM 01/08/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>At 5:41 PM -0800 1/7/03, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>If some people got free rooms at O'Fest based on a comp formula, let me
>>be the first to say that this would clearly be a violation of my trust on
>>the BMWCCA.
>>
>>We are a volunteer organization and if an ordinary member pays to come to
>>O'Fest, everybody else should pay too.
>>
>>There must be some records to this, where are they?
>
>I have no problem with a chair or even committee chairs being comp'ed.
>If someone is willing to spend months preparing for an event, that is a 
>small price for me to pay. I am only too happy to volunteer for a few 
>hours during Ofest. A whole week, I don't know if I could do it. These 
>people who chair the events work hard at keeping us entertained. No matter 
>how hard they try, someone will give them grief.
>
>I'm already helping a chapter almost 3 years in advance!
>
>When Phil asks all of the volunteers to stand at the awards banquet, if 
>there is no one sitting, I will reconsider my opinion.
>
>...steven

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 11:25:54 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] thinking about buying a 95 M3: advice wanted!!

Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am thinking about buying this used 95 M3. I have never 
> owned a BMW before(I am 23 and only had a 94 Honda Accord
> and a 2000 Hyundai Tiburon up to this point) but I've been
> doing a lot online research in the last few days. I was 
> just wondering if any of you guys have any general advice 
> for me. Like the common problems a 95 M3 may have that I 
> should look out for, cost and tips of taking care of a BMW,
> etc. Oh yeah, it has 106k on it, how much should I be 
> concerned about that? Thanks for all your help. 

Henry,
Two stage advise:
1. Join BMW CCA and/or go to the local BMW CCA chapter meeting. 
2. Ask about honest independents in your area. Take the car for a thorough 
pre-purchase inspection. Avoid the dealer or any shops that do X-many 
points' checks. Pay the wrench for the actual time he spends looking at 
and driving the car. Should take 1.5-2 hours to cover all the usual suspects.

The milage itself is not very relevant. The prior care and regular 
maintenance are critical. 

alex f

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6003
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