[uucdigest]         Monday, January 20 2003         Volume 03 : Number 6037



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] E36 CD Changer compatibility
       [uuc] E36 CD Changer compatibility
       Re: [uuc] BMW conver. and reps
       Re: [uuc] Re:<E36> "Disc Error" / CD Changer repair?
       [uuc] E30 325is purchase advice
       [uuc] Re: E30 convertible weight ballast
       [uuc] 318ti Compact Registry
       Re: [uuc] Re: E30 convertible weight ballast
       [uuc] <shameless plug> zymol floatin in da bay
       Re: [uuc] Re: E30 convertible weight ballast
       [uuc] [e28] 535 Getrag 260 tranny into an [e34] 535 - what mods required?
       [uuc] Pre-Purchase Inspection in Orlando, FL
       [uuc] 740iL rotors
       [uuc] Old R-compounds.
       Re: [uuc] 740iL rotors
       Re: [uuc] (broken?) aluminum floor jacks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:53:45 -0700
From: "Ike Moolla" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 CD Changer compatibility

Hi,

Any idea if the E36 Pioneer, six CD changer can be fitted into a 1999
E46?

We have a changer in the E36 (which will be sold shortly) and the new
acquisition (E46) does not have a changer.

Thanks

Ike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 18:54:42 -0700
From: "Ike Moolla" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 CD Changer compatibility

Hi,

Any idea if the E36 Pioneer, six CD changer can be fitted into a 1999
E46?

We have a changer in the E36 (which will be sold shortly) and the new
acquisition (E46) does not have a changer.

Thanks

Ike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 20:12:56 -0600
From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] BMW conver. and reps

Bora Akyol (BMW) wrote:

>Didn't Nissan say something like 52%/48% works for the new Z, something
>about weight shifting rearward under acceleration and then achieving 50/50.
>
>I thought that was pretty funny as the car is not constantly accelerating.
>  
>
So using their "logic" - the car is unbalanced under hard braking? That 
doesn't sound so good. --SC

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 22:01:41 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re:<E36> "Disc Error" / CD Changer repair?

Rob,

I would assume that Bora's assuming that you have a CD stuck in the changer, 
which is apparently a typical failure mode.

Martin Bullen
'95 M3
'97 Z3 2.8

Just full of assumptions today.

In a message dated 1/20/03 12:34:12 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

>Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 09:05:32 -0700
>From: "Rob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] Re:<E36> "Disc Error" / CD Changer repair?
>
>Bora wrote: Put an empty cartridge in, reconnect power and turn on the
>ignition, see if
>it spits a CD out
>
> Maybe I wasn't clear. The CD cartridge will pop in and out at will. It
>just
>won't play CDs.
>
>Rob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 19:13:57 -0800 (PST)
From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E30 325is purchase advice

- --0-831192158-1043032437=:42333
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Group,
Considering the purchase of a 1987 325is.  The car has been in storage for 1-1/2 
years, and has been described by the owner as "tired" all around.  I've seen pics, and 
although they don't tell all, it looks cosmetically decent.  It is said to need a 
major tune-up, and likely complete suspension replacement.  Brakes may need work also 
(rotors, caliper rebuild, lines).
It has 145k miles, with manual trans.  I don't object to using used parts in the 
suspension replacement - I'm just trying to get away with a relatively cheap E30 for 
my 12 mile round trip commute until I find my next car in the spring.  
The owner is asking $1,000, and is fairly firm on this price.  What do you all think - 
good buy, or rat's nest of problems?  What types of costs am I looking at for full 
tune-up, and could I easily find a used suspension (Bimmers South, or similar)?
Thanks,
Neil



- ---------------------------------
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- --0-831192158-1043032437=:42333
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<P>Group,
<P>Considering the purchase of a 1987 325is.&nbsp; The car has been in storage for 
1-1/2 years, and has been described by the owner as "tired" all around.&nbsp; I've 
seen pics, and although they don't tell all, it looks cosmetically decent.&nbsp; It is 
said to need a major tune-up, and likely complete suspension replacement.&nbsp; Brakes 
may need work also (rotors, caliper rebuild, lines).
<P>It has 145k miles, with manual trans.&nbsp; I don't object to using used parts in 
the suspension replacement - I'm just trying to get away with a relatively cheap E30 
for my 12 mile round trip commute until I find my next car in the spring.&nbsp; 
<P>The owner is asking $1,000, and is fairly firm on this price.&nbsp; What do you all 
think - good buy, or rat's nest of problems?&nbsp; What types of costs am I looking at 
for full tune-up, and could I easily find a used suspension (Bimmers South, or 
similar)?
<P>Thanks,
<P>Neil</P><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br>
<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! Mail 
Plus</a> - Powerful. Affordable. <a 
href="http://rd.yahoo.com/mail/mailsig/*http://mailplus.yahoo.com";>Sign up now</a>
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 22:26:46 -0800 (PST)
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 convertible weight ballast

On Sun, 19 Jan 2003, Gary Derian wrote:

> That damping weight bounces around constantly, which would harm a
> battery.
>
> > why not get a rear battery mount and put my battery back there like it
> > is on the others?  Seems like it would save me the 50 lbs of dead
> > weight, minus the 10 pounds of battery cables or so.

 Do you mean that the weight would bounce around and smack the
battery?  I wasn't planning to have both in there at once.
 If you mean that the location is too bouncy for a battery, then why
do the hardtop e30s have the battery back there?


- --
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 08:01:23 -0500
From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 318ti Compact Registry

I have reinstituted the 318ti (E36/5) Compact Registry.
If you have a 1994-1999 ti, please add your name.
Select your location and click on add.

http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/registry/

Thanks,
...steven

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 08:43:55 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: E30 convertible weight ballast

The damping mass bounces around so the body doesn't.  If the battery were
used as the mass, it would bounce around and become damaged.  Anything
inside the case that could come loose, would.

Gary Derian


> On Sun, 19 Jan 2003, Gary Derian wrote:
>
> > That damping weight bounces around constantly, which would harm a
> > battery.
> >
> > > why not get a rear battery mount and put my battery back there like it
> > > is on the others?  Seems like it would save me the 50 lbs of dead
> > > weight, minus the 10 pounds of battery cables or so.
>
>  Do you mean that the weight would bounce around and smack the
> battery?  I wasn't planning to have both in there at once.
>  If you mean that the location is too bouncy for a battery, then why
> do the hardtop e30s have the battery back there?
>
>
> --
>  "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
>    -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 10:23:29 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <shameless plug> zymol floatin in da bay

Well, it's too cold here in Michigan to think about using this stuff 
in January.  Plus I've got more than I'd use in good weather.  Thanks 
for the bandwidth.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=2400727782

Jay

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 07:44:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: E30 convertible weight ballast

- --- John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>  If you mean that the location is too bouncy for a
> battery, then why
> do the hardtop e30s have the battery back there?
> 

The location is too bouncy for a battery.  The hardtops
aren't prone to the same oscillatory vibrations, so the
battery sits back there with no problems.  

The E36 cabrios have the battery in the trunk, but it is
specially designed to handle the vibration and effectively
dampen them as well, without shortening battery life (got 6
years from the original in mine).  A "normal" battery's
performance would be compromised in that location.

tammer f.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 08:50:27 -0800
From: "JS Nord" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] [e28] 535 Getrag 260 tranny into an [e34] 535 - what mods required?

Have the chance to get a good Getrag 260 tranny from an E28 to replace my
ageing E34 5 speed.

>From inspection, it looks like the output flanges are not the same.  The
"centering pin" on the output shaft also appears a little different.
Sooo...

Is it possible (reasonable?) to make this swap and if so, what's required?

Thanks.

Jeff
90 535i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:09:07 -0500
From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Pre-Purchase Inspection in Orlando, FL

Gruppe,

Does anyone have a good shop in the Orlando area that they'd recommend
for doing a pre-purchase inspection on a '97 M3?

Please e-mail me offline to save bandwidth.  Thanks!

   KC Boyce
   '85 325e (sold...sigh)
   '95-'97 M3 (soon)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 10:09:51 -0800
From: Jeff Stowe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 740iL rotors

It's time for new front rotors on the 96 740iL.  Can anyone recommend a
decent source here in the south bay for OEM or brembos?

I have a bunch of e36 M3 rotors in the garage, any chance these are the same
part number as the 740iL?

thanks for the help!

jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 12:40:21 -0600
From: Robert Phelan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Old R-compounds.

Hey gang,
If any of you racers here in the midwest have a set of r-compounds 
for e30 rims that are getting near the end of their lifespan, I might 
be interested in taking them off your hands (for a fee or otherwise). 
I'm a college student that may be moving out of the country for a 
while as part of a work exchange program.  I want to do one last 
driver's school here in April and I'd like to do it on r-compounds, 
but can't justify (or afford really) the cost of a new set of even 
the cheapest victoracers for one run.  My car will be staying in the 
states so I don't know when I'll have another shot at a track.

I live in Rolla Missouri (100 miles SW of St. Louis and 200 SE of 
Kansas City).  If you're within a few hundred miles and have some 
r-compounds that will fit stock e30 rims I'd be interested in hearing 
from you.


Thanks for the time,
Robert
- -- 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:51:09 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] 740iL rotors

Jeff Stowe wrote:

> It's time for new front rotors on the 96 740iL.  Can anyone recommend a
> decent source here in the south bay for OEM or brembos?

try Zygmunt - http://www.bimmerparts.com - the Balos are $61.66 each.  I believe
Balo are universally well recommended.  the ATEs are only ~$2 more.

shipping will be a little bit, but not too much.  IIRC it was something like $15
on the last set of Brembos I got for the M coupe.

> I have a bunch of e36 M3 rotors in the garage, any chance these are the same
> part number as the 740iL?

nope.  the E38 rotors are shared with other E38's (non 750) E32 750's & also
E31's.




Ben

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 15:13:01 -0500
From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] (broken?) aluminum floor jacks

Hey All,

     Here are a number of comments I have collected.  I cannot vouch for
their authenticity, as I simply lifted them from another list.  Clearly, at
a minimum, you must be much more careful with how you use a cheap aluminum
jack, or for that matter, perhaps any aluminum jack.  The misuse, abuse, and
lack of careful attention that is OK to do with a typical heavy duty steel
jack can get you in trouble with an aluminum jack.
     I've never heard or seen one of those super-cheap, super-light,
piece-o-crap steel "trolley" jacks fail, but I have always been scared to
death (OK, not death) using them.  These "trolley" jacks are commonly used
at Driving Schools, but I hate them.  The aluminum ones actually look
stronger and better than those to me ...

Stan

- --------------
1.  I wondered how long these things would last.  Ours is less than 2 weeks
old.  Part of the weight of the car was resting on one of the four vertical
"fingers" surrounding the rubber pad.  The finger broke clear off taking
about 20% of the circular aluminum pad with it..

2.  yeah great deal.  I saw one literally break in half 2 weeks ago when the
car shifted a little on the jack.  Luckily these pieces of crap are cheap
enough to buy in quantity so the other one was used to lift the car off the
first one.

3. (referring to #2)  may have seen operator error.  I have never broken an
Al jack before, but I think it would have happened to any jack - (tilted on
hill in RA paddock).  I don't think the hydraulics are up to par for the
expensive stuff and the fluid is worthless in the cold (under 50), but I
still consider them a decent deal.

4.  I use my HF exclusively at the track to change tires.  I always make
sure I'm using the center of the pad to lift the car and of course
jackstands are used if I'm crawling under the thing.  For the weight and the
price I can't think of a better buy.  Hell I can buy 3 of the other ones for
the same price.  The failures I've heard about are on the lift pad when
people weren't real careful about using the center of the pad, it broke on
the edges, which isn't surprising since that is the  flimsiest part of the
jack.
- ----------


Neil Maller wrote:
>
> on 1/16/03 11:30 PM, Skip Bogard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Here's my data point to contribute...I was at Harbor Freight in Raleigh
and
> > examined two of them at the store side-by-side:
> >
> > Silver model - had a reinforcement rib running the length UNDER the lift
> > arm...much like a reinforcement rib seen designed into plastic moldings
for
> > things like fishing tackle boxes, plastic tools boxes, or large plastic
> > storage boxes...
> >
> > Blue anodized model - was prettier than the silver model, but did not
have the
> > rib! was completely absent.
>
> That's interesting. My original silver model certainly has reinforcing
> gussets under the lift arm as Skip describes. I've seen the blue model at
> the HF store here, but didn't think to look underneath.
>
> and on 1/16/03 11:30 PM, "KMS - Brett Anderson"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > Obviously the silver model has a greater lift capacity.  Wasn't the
colour
> > difference discussed recently, one at 3000lb and the other at 4000lb?
>
> The new 4000 lb model is apparently blue, but recent sightings of the 3000
> lb version also show it as blue. The original 3000 was silver, may also
> still be available?
>
> Back to Skip:
> > You can't see the reinforcement rib unless you pick up the jack(s) &
look
> > UNDER the lift arm.  Other than that...and the color, they looked
identical.
> >
> > This tells me I should share with list members a warning that they
should know
> > Harbor Freight is not selling a consistent product in their stores...at
a
> > minimum. As to overall quality, I do not know, but it is not consistent
> > product.  Question for Stan or anytone: Any detail(s) on what seems to
> > allegedly fail?  (perhaps the Lift arm or some other part?)
>
> I've heard but not seen specifics of two HF failures.
>
> One broke off an overhanging segment of the saddle, apparently because the
> contact point wasn't positioned centrally when jacking. This might not
> matter much with a steel part, but care needs to be taken with aluminum.
>
> James Clay at Bimmerworld previously reported breaking an HF side plate
> while jacking an "angled load." In my experience with lifting cars at the
> track it's not hard for a jack to tilt if the ground isn't flat and level.
> Maybe that's what happened here?
>
> I've previously pointed out that the HF jack uses aluminum castings for
the
> main load-bearing parts: side plates and lift arm. This isn't as strong a
> construction as the machined and assembled aluminum plate found in the
high
> end ($600+) racing jacks.
>
> So, no surprise here, you get what you pay for.
>
> I've been very satisfied with my HF jack, but I'll continue to be careful
in
> how I use it at the track. (At home I have a pair of behemoth "survive a
> direct hit from a nuke" Lincolns that can be abused all you want.)
>
> Neil
> 96 M3

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6037
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