[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 11 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6102
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing [uuc] Re: The Hire DVD Re: [uuc] Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing Re: [uuc] Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing Re: [uuc] Re: Urethane bushings on e36 daily driver/track car for rear suspension [uuc] E30 No start after charging battery [uuc] Transition Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 daily driver/track car for rear suspension ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 16:34:52 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing That's interesting, Stefano, thanks for the advice. But I definitely have a bad wheel bearing. With the wheel off, I can grab the hub and move it in/out and at a slight angle to normal, and the control arm does not move at all. By comparison, the right side is tight with no play. Since John offered to loan me the factory tool, my decision comes down to whether or not I have time for the job. Things are pretty busy right now and I find time just flying right by me as I'm about to turn fif... fif... fifftth.... fiffhhtthht... no longer be 49. Sorry, can't say it. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 10:05:52 -0500 >From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing > >Make sure to check your rear control arm bushing. >I had a noise in my '98 M3 suspension and a mechanic diagnosed a bad wheel >bearing by grabbing the tire and pushing and pulling. >However, after closer inspection the bad bushing was allowing the free play. >I ordered the part and got the wrong one since BMW official name for it is >"ball bearing" for the outside bushing closer to the tire and just "bushing" >for the inside bushing closer to the center of the car. > >Stefano ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 19:49:21 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: The Hire DVD Sorry for the cross post. BMWFilms is giving out a free DVD of the Hire to BMW owners. http://tinyurl.com/5n30 Dennis Jeong ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 22:53:55 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing All I have to say on that one is that you're rear wheel bearing will be in very very very very very very bad shape by the time you can move the wheel in any way. So very very bad that it's borderline dangerous by the time the wheel can move at all, in a lateral motion. - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Make sure to check your rear control arm bushing. > I had a noise in my '98 M3 suspension and a mechanic diagnosed a bad wheel > bearing by grabbing the tire and pushing and pulling. > However, after closer inspection the bad bushing was allowing the free play. > I ordered the part and got the wrong one since BMW official name for it is > "ball bearing" for the outside bushing closer to the tire and just "bushing" > for the inside bushing closer to the center of the car. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 23:09:01 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing <d'oh> Before my SO, the spelling queen, gets me, that should have been YOUR rear wheel bearing.... - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > All I have to say on that one is that you're rear wheel bearing ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 20:19:29 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol (BMW)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Urethane bushings on e36 daily driver/track car for rear suspension I have these bushings on my E30 M3 JS club racer, and I did not think the car was that much louder at all. Much tighter though (big grin) :-) I would rate: 1) poly-U sub frame bushings, control arm, trailing etc bushings 2) rear and front strut tower braces 3) and for E36 the X-brace as the most bang for buck improvements out there. Bora On 2/10/03 8:53 AM, "James Clay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > First, all of the bushings you mention are legal in stock class (including > BMW, SCCA for autocross, etc - may not be legal in SCCA SS and T classes for > road racing). They are all very streetable and don't add much of the PITA > factor because they don't directly take a load - they are more of a pivot > point. The exceptions are the subframe bushings which will add a little > gear noise, slightly more when coupled with the solid diff bushings, because > they give the vibrations from the diff a better channel to invade the car > shell. > > The rear bushings are definitely better than replacement stock rubber. The > main difference I feel is the rear rotates or takes a set quicker and is > consistent through the corner instead of twisting more. This joint, if the > choice was made by a mechanical engineer instead of an ergonomics guy would > have been a spherical bearing. It is made to move on 3 axes, which only a > ball joint can do without eventual wear. I think the urethane will be > better than rubber, even long term, and it is my choice on my street car. > However, solid is the way it should be done, but it will make the car louder > (they click). If I had one car that I took to the track a bit, I lived > where the roads are decent, and I wasn't extra sensitive to added noise, I > would probably do solid. > > James > > James Clay > http://www.bimmerworld.com > Engineered BMW Performance > 540.639.9648 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 9:08 AM > Subject: Urethane bushings on e36 daily driver/track car for rear suspension > > >> In an effort to make my '92 e36 325IS more predictable and easier to > rotate >> at the limit on the track I am strongly considering replacing the stock > rear >> suspension bushings with urethane components such as the POWERFLEX > bushings >> sold by Bimmerworld. They are 25% stiffer then stock rubber. The bushings > in >> question are the rear trailing arm, control arm, subframe bushings and >> possibly differential mounts. A few questions, >> >> 1. How is the streetability and durability effected with urethane, the car > is >> on H & R sport and Konis with stock bars and is driven spring thru fall in >> New England? >> >> 2. Are Urethane bushings a significant performance advantage over new > stock >> rubber bushings or do you really have to get into the solid bushings for >> noticeable improvements. Can you feel the rear rotation earlier and is it >> more predictable and recoverable at the limit? >> >> 3. Are the urethane bushings legal for BMWCCA stock classes and are they >> widely used? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Gordon Geick >> 1992 e36 325IS >> 1976 Alfa Spider (lot of fun for the daily commute) >> >> > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 07:48:12 -0500 From: "Sid Schwartz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 No start after charging battery My '88 325i wouldn't turn over due to a bad battery. I charged the battery and now it turns over fine, but will not start. Starting has not been a problem. I recall seeing messages about a fuse wire within a relay that can burn out when recharging the battery. I've checked the fuel pump fuse and it is fine. Any ideas before I get the car towed?<br> <br> Sid<br> ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 08:49:18 -0500 From: "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Transition I decided a few years back that when I next needed a car, it would be an E36M3. (Some rides with hotshot instructors, including a few on this list, played a large part.) Recently I realized a couple of things: 1) My E30 is never going to wear out. 2) I'm not getting any younger. 3) I can preserve capital better with an M3 than in the stock market. So here I am, the proud new owner of a pristine 95 M3, purchased from Evan Evans of the Smoky Mountain chapter in Knoxville. Over the past 10 days I exchanged many emails with Evan, talked to him by phone at great length (more than I talked to my wife over the same period, she says), and talked to his mechanic at some length too. All this conversation resulted in a deal consumated with astounding quickness once I arrived on the scene. Knoxville is about 250 miles from Cincinnati. On Sunday, I got an early start, arrived at Evan's house about 11:15, and was heading home M3'd by 1:30. I had arranged to donate my beater VW to charity in Knoxville. This solved a transportation problem, and also relieved me of the chore of selling it. So on my way out of Knoxville, I dropped off the title and paperwork for the VW to be picked up later at Evan's house. (A brief salute to that noble '86 Golf: Purchased new, it served as primary vehicle for each family member at some point in time - but for the last four years it belonged to no one, got no love and very little maintenance. 123k and it almost never was out of the Cincinnati metro area. 17 years we had that car!) So the E30 moves to Beater status. . .wait! That won't work! I like it too much to abuse it! Evan's car was just the car I wanted. I passed up a bunch that were cheaper and many that were closer. It has what I wanted: white, 5-sp, sunroof, OBC. And it doesn't have what I didn't want: rear spoiler, heated seats, aftermarket enhancements. A bonus was Contour wheels, which I prefer to the M-spokes. Most importantly, it is in truly excellent condition. Worth the money, worth the travel. So prepare yourselves, people, for a deluge of really dumb and basic E36 questions. Most of what I know about my E30 I learned right here, and I trust you all to re-educate me on the new model. I've ordered a Bentley, but mainly I'll depend on my fellow Digestors. My plan is to keep it stock, at least until I've had it on the track a few times. The suspension is totally original at 74k, so I've probably got some decisions fairly soon. So to you E30 guys - I'm still one of you! Honest! To the E36'ers - I appreciate the chance to join the club. I'll try to serve honorably. Bob Fluharty 87 325is 95 M3 Cincinnati www.skewed-perspective.com Anybody want to buy an A2 Golf/Jetta Bentley, cheap? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 06:16:07 -0800 (PST) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 daily driver/track car for rear suspension - --0-991122416-1044972967=:94915 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Gordon, I would heartily agree with #'s 2 and 3 below. (I'm sure #1 is true, but I have no direct experience.) The bracing (strut, shock and X) have no negative impact on ride quality. I did the rear first, and although I've subsequently been told that rear braces really don't do anything, I could definitely notice that the rear of the car followed the track of the front better through corners. I did the X by itself after that, because I hadn't discovered Dinan's bar for ASC cars yet, and it quieted down nearly all the then-present creaks and rattles in the car, which tells me it did a good job in tying things together that had been flexing. Finally, I did the front Dinan brace (excellent quality BTW), and while I initially expected this to increase understeer (effectively by limiting roll in the front), it had the opposite effect, presumably because it allowed less improper movement of front suspension components. I was never able to induce oversteer in an auto-X until I had that bar installed. I've also heard that having the front brace in can help reduce the beating up and misalignment of your strut towers - when I put mine in, I had to "persuade" my strut bolts (covered with two nuts, of course) with a hammer to align them to the Dinan bar's holes. FWIW, Neil "Bora Akyol (BMW)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:I have these bushings on my E30 M3 JS club racer, and I did not think the car was that much louder at all. Much tighter though (big grin) :-) I would rate: 1) poly-U sub frame bushings, control arm, trailing etc bushings 2) rear and front strut tower braces 3) and for E36 the X-brace as the most bang for buck improvements out there. Bora On 2/10/03 8:53 AM, "James Clay" wrote: > First, all of the bushings you mention are legal in stock class (including > BMW, SCCA for autocross, etc - may not be legal in SCCA SS and T classes for > road racing). They are all very streetable and don't add much of the PITA > factor because they don't directly take a load - they are more of a pivot > point. The exceptions are the subframe bushings which will add a little > gear noise, slightly more when coupled with the solid diff bushings, because > they give the vibrations from the diff a better channel to invade the car > shell. > > The rear bushings are definitely better than replacement stock rubber. The > main difference I feel is the rear rotates or takes a set quicker and is > consistent through the corner instead of twisting more. This joint, if the > choice was made by a mechanical engineer instead of an ergonomics guy would > have been a spherical bearing. It is made to move on 3 axes, which only a > ball joint can do without eventual wear. I think the urethane will be > better than rubber, even long term, and it is my choice on my street car. > However, solid is the way it should be done, but it will make the car louder > (they click). If I had one car that I took to the track a bit, I lived > where the roads are decent, and I wasn't extra sensitive to added noise, I > would probably do solid. > > James > > James Clay > http://www.bimmerworld.com > Engineered BMW Performance > 540.639.9648 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 9:08 AM > Subject: Urethane bushings on e36 daily driver/track car for rear suspension > > >> In an effort to make my '92 e36 325IS more predictable and easier to > rotate >> at the limit on the track I am strongly considering replacing the stock > rear >> suspension bushings with urethane components such as the POWERFLEX > bushings >> sold by Bimmerworld. They are 25% stiffer then stock rubber. The bushings > in >> question are the rear trailing arm, control arm, subframe bushings and >> possibly differential mounts. A few questions, >> >> 1. How is the streetability and durability effected with urethane, the car > is >> on H & R sport and Konis with stock bars and is driven spring thru fall in >> New England? >> >> 2. Are Urethane bushings a significant performance advantage over new > stock >> rubber bushings or do you really have to get into the solid bushings for >> noticeable improvements. Can you feel the rear rotation earlier and is it >> more predictable and recoverable at the limit? >> >> 3. Are the urethane bushings legal for BMWCCA stock classes and are they >> widely used? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Gordon Geick >> 1992 e36 325IS >> 1976 Alfa Spider (lot of fun for the daily commute) >> >> > - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day - --0-991122416-1044972967=:94915 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <P>Gordon, <P>I would heartily agree with #'s 2 and 3 below. (I'm sure #1 is true, but I have no direct experience.) <P>The bracing (strut, shock and X) have no negative impact on ride quality. I did the rear first, and although I've subsequently been told that rear braces really don't do anything, I could definitely notice that the rear of the car followed the track of the front better through corners. I did the X by itself after that, because I hadn't discovered Dinan's bar for ASC cars yet, and it quieted down nearly all the then-present creaks and rattles in the car, which tells me it did a good job in tying things together that had been flexing. Finally, I did the front Dinan brace (excellent quality BTW), and while I initially expected this to increase understeer (effectively by limiting roll in the front), it had the opposite effect, presumably because it allowed less improper movement of front suspension components. I was never able to induce oversteer in an auto-X until I had that bar installed. <P>I've also heard that having the front brace in can help reduce the beating up and misalignment of your strut towers - when I put mine in, I had to "persuade" my strut bolts (covered with two nuts, of course) with a hammer to align them to the Dinan bar's holes. <P>FWIW, <P>Neil <P> <B><I>"Bora Akyol (BMW)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]></I></B> wrote: <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">I have these bushings on my E30 M3 JS club racer, and I did not think the<BR>car was that much louder at all. Much tighter though (big grin) :-)<BR><BR>I would rate:<BR><BR>1) poly-U sub frame bushings, control arm, trailing etc bushings<BR>2) rear and front strut tower braces<BR>3) and for E36 the X-brace<BR><BR>as the most bang for buck improvements out there.<BR><BR>Bora<BR><BR>On 2/10/03 8:53 AM, "James Clay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:<BR><BR>> First, all of the bushings you mention are legal in stock class (including<BR>> BMW, SCCA for autocross, etc - may not be legal in SCCA SS and T classes for<BR>> road racing). They are all very streetable and don't add much of the PITA<BR>> factor because they don't directly take a load - they are more of a pivot<BR>> point. The exceptions are the subframe bushings which will add a little<BR>> gear noise, slightly more when! coupled with the solid diff bushings, because<BR>> they give the vibrations from the diff a better channel to invade the car<BR>> shell.<BR>> <BR>> The rear bushings are definitely better than replacement stock rubber. The<BR>> main difference I feel is the rear rotates or takes a set quicker and is<BR>> consistent through the corner instead of twisting more. This joint, if the<BR>> choice was made by a mechanical engineer instead of an ergonomics guy would<BR>> have been a spherical bearing. It is made to move on 3 axes, which only a<BR>> ball joint can do without eventual wear. I think the urethane will be<BR>> better than rubber, even long term, and it is my choice on my street car.<BR>> However, solid is the way it should be done, but it will make the car louder<BR>> (they click). If I had one car that I took to the track a bit, I lived<BR>> where the roads are decent, and I wasn't extra sensitive to added noise, I<BR>> would pr! obably do solid.<BR>> <BR>> James<BR>> <BR>> James Clay<BR>> http://www.bimmerworld.com<BR>> Engineered BMW Performance<BR>> 540.639.9648<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> ----- Original Message -----<BR>> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]><BR>> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]><BR>> Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 9:08 AM<BR>> Subject: Urethane bushings on e36 daily driver/track car for rear suspension<BR>> <BR>> <BR>>> In an effort to make my '92 e36 325IS more predictable and easier to<BR>> rotate<BR>>> at the limit on the track I am strongly considering replacing the stock<BR>> rear<BR>>> suspension bushings with urethane components such as the POWERFLEX<BR>> bushings<BR>>> sold by Bimmerworld. They are 25% stiffer then stock rubber. The bushings<BR>> in<BR>>> question are the rear trailing arm, control arm, subframe bushings and<BR>>> possibly differential mounts. A few questions,<BR>>>! <BR>>> 1. How is the streetability and durability effected with urethane, the car<BR>> is<BR>>> on H & R sport and Konis with stock bars and is driven spring thru fall in<BR>>> New England?<BR>>> <BR>>> 2. Are Urethane bushings a significant performance advantage over new<BR>> stock<BR>>> rubber bushings or do you really have to get into the solid bushings for<BR>>> noticeable improvements. Can you feel the rear rotation earlier and is it<BR>>> more predictable and recoverable at the limit?<BR>>> <BR>>> 3. Are the urethane bushings legal for BMWCCA stock classes and are they<BR>>> widely used?<BR>>> <BR>>> Thanks,<BR>>> <BR>>> Gordon Geick<BR>>> 1992 e36 325IS<BR>>> 1976 Alfa Spider (lot of fun for the daily commute)<BR>>> <BR>>> <BR>> <BR></BLOCKQUOTE><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/O=1/I=brandr/vday03/text/flow/*http://shopping.yahoo.com /shop?d=browse&id=20146735">Yahoo! Shopping</a> - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day - --0-991122416-1044972967=:94915-- ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6102 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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