[uucdigest] Tuesday, February 11 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6103
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Transition [uuc] Re: [E36] Hood latch [uuc] Re: Transition - new to you E36 M3 [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation [uuc] RE: Transition Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation RE: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 06:20:01 -0800 (PST) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Transition - --0-787774599-1044973201=:87967 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Sounds like you should've donated the Bentley, too - the next owner may very well need it... :-) >> - but for the last four years it belonged to no one, got no love and very little >maintenance. >> - Anybody want to buy an A2 Golf/Jetta Bentley, cheap? - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day - --0-787774599-1044973201=:87967 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <P>Sounds like you should've donated the Bentley, too - the next owner may very well need it... :-)</P> <P>>> - but for the last four years it belonged to no one, got no love and very little maintenance. </P> <P>>> - Anybody want to buy an A2 Golf/Jetta Bentley, cheap?<BR><BR><BR><BR></P><p><br><hr size=1>Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/O=1/I=brandr/vday03/text/flow/*http://shopping.yahoo.com /shop?d=browse&id=20146735">Yahoo! Shopping</a> - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day - --0-787774599-1044973201=:87967-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:00:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [E36] Hood latch I posted a while ago that the hood latch had become progressively harder to operate, until the point where the plastic inside release handle mechanism gave way under the strain. I was then unable to open the hood, even by pulling on the loose inside end of the release cable with Vise-Grips. Oh crap! Here's the outcome, in case it helps someone else: First, I was able to get the hood open by having another person push down on its front edge. This relieved enough pressure on the latches that I could now pull on the cable end inside and get the hood open. Phew! I found that part of the plastic support that holds the interior release handle was broken. However that was a consequence of the force I had to use to pop the hood, rather being than the root cause of the problem. This support piece comes only as a complete release cable assembly, which I ordered (about $31 locally). Once the hood was open the cable appeared to operate smoothly, so I replaced the broken plastic support but left the original cable in place. I also regreased all the accessible latch parts, but that didn't make the closed latches any easier to open. I then wondered if the hood latch pins might be out of alignment enough that friction was preventing the release from working smoothly. Bentley shows a procedure for aligning these pins. Basically you loosen their fasteners barely enough that they can be moved, gently push the hood down just enough that they self-centre (IMPORTANT! - without allowing the hood to latch), then refasten them. That worked. Now the hood release operates smoothly. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:14:25 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Transition - new to you E36 M3 on 2/11/03 9:17 AM, "Nancy Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > So here I am, the proud new owner of a pristine 95 M3 Bob, Welcome to E36 M3 ownership. They are great cars. For focussed info on this car, you might also want to join the E36 M3 Digest, see: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm And let me suggest the first two things you'll probably need to replace, unless they've already been done. 1) The rear trailing bushings. These typically wear out sometime after 50K miles, and the 96+ bushing version is more robust. 2) The rear upper shock mounts (see, some things haven't changed from the E30...). The E46 M3 mounts fit fine and last longer. In addition you'll want to install the X-brace (from the E36 cabrio, about $120), which tightens the front end up considerably. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 08:55:57 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation Groups, this morning I read the section of the Bentley manual that deals with replacing the rear wheel bearing and axle shaft on my 325i. John C already offered to loan me the factory puller, which I assume is the one shown in the Bentley that hooks up to the hub at the lug holes and has a threaded shaft for pushing against the axle shaft. But the manual also calls for these tools: Special bearing driver-outer to drive the bearing outer race out of the control arm housing. Special puller for removing the inner race from the hub (can probably borrow from Darrel again, but he's packing to move). Special presser-oner to push the new bearing outer race into the control arm housing. Special presser-oner to press the hub into the inner race, or is it the inner race onto the hub? Special puller-oner to pull the axle into the hub. My question is simply, what do y'all use to do these jobs? Is this as simple as the 1-1/4 inch piece of conduit that I was supposed to need to drive the front wheel bearing inner race onto the spindle? Or do I need a machine shop to fabricate these devices? Or money to rent a whole box full of tools from Brett, who, by the way, seems to think that my rear wheel bearing is about to become much more problematic? >Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2003 22:53:55 -0500 >From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [uuc] Diagnosis Complete - Bad Rear Wheel Bearing > >All I have to say on that one is that you're rear wheel bearing will be in >very very very very very very bad shape by the time you can move the wheel in >any way. > >So very very bad that it's borderline dangerous by the time the wheel can move >at all, in a lateral motion. Which makes it sound like I should have dropped the car off at Bavarian Professionals last week. All input welcome, TIA. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 12:12:25 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Transition Bob, Then come on over and join us on Suzy's list: E36M3 List - Forum for Discussion of E36M3 Series Automobiles BMWMPower on the Web: http://www.bmw-m.net DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm Later, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 11:54:47 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Groups, this morning I read the section of the Bentley manual that > deals with replacing the rear wheel bearing and axle shaft on my 325i. > John C already offered to loan me the factory puller, which I assume > is the one shown in the Bentley that hooks up to the hub at the lug > holes and has a threaded shaft for pushing against the axle shaft. That's the infamous slide hammer. A primitive, crude contraption that somehow sells for $300. Alas it is indispensable for this job. > But the manual also calls for these tools: > Special bearing driver-outer to drive the bearing outer race out of the > control arm housing. A round socket will do the job. > Special puller for removing the inner race from the hub (can probably > borrow from Darrel again, but he's packing to move). That was a royal PITA on my rear bearings. Some years ago when I still had more E30s than money I hired a friendly wrench to do the rear wheel bearing (RWB) job for 1/3 the dealer rate with me helping and learning. Things went way south from the get go: the old bearing refused to come out in one piece and separated. The outer bearing came out with the wheel hub while the inner one remained sized on the axle. We managed to bang the outer race out with some effort, but the inner one would not budget. Very long and painful story short, the half shaft had to be taken off the car, and the stubborn inner race cut from the axle with a rotary saw. All in all it took about 3 hours just to get the old bearing off the car. The new one went in like a song. Had the old one come off in one piece, the whole project could have been finished in an hour. Instead it took 4+ hours of swearing, banging, cutting and pulling. On the way home I was counting my lucky starts that I had paid someone else to do this job. YMMV. > Special presser-oner to push the new bearing outer race into the > control arm housing. > Special presser-oner to press the hub into the inner race, or is > it the inner race onto the hub? Two round sockets again. > Special puller-oner to pull the axle into the hub. A hammer? > >From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >All I have to say on that one is that you're rear wheel bearing will > >be in very very very very very very bad shape by the time you can move > >the wheel in any way. > > > >So very very bad that it's borderline dangerous by the time the wheel > >can move at all, in a lateral motion. > > Which makes it sound like I should have dropped the car off at Bavarian > Professionals last week. All input welcome, TIA. FWIW, my 150K mile howling RWB did not exhibit any side play before it fell apart and caused all the headache during replacement. If you've got an extra $200 laying around, I would leave this job to a professional wrench. alex f ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 10:23:48 -0800 From: "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation It's not a slide hammer. The threads on the shaft squeeze the bearing out. Personally it was worth the time saved. - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 9:55 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Tools for E30 Rear Wheel Bearing Installation [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Groups, this morning I read the section of the Bentley manual that > deals with replacing the rear wheel bearing and axle shaft on my 325i. > John C already offered to loan me the factory puller, which I assume > is the one shown in the Bentley that hooks up to the hub at the lug > holes and has a threaded shaft for pushing against the axle shaft. That's the infamous slide hammer. A primitive, crude contraption that somehow sells for $300. Alas it is indispensable for this job. > But the manual also calls for these tools: > Special bearing driver-outer to drive the bearing outer race out of the > control arm housing. A round socket will do the job. > Special puller for removing the inner race from the hub (can probably > borrow from Darrel again, but he's packing to move). That was a royal PITA on my rear bearings. Some years ago when I still had more E30s than money I hired a friendly wrench to do the rear wheel bearing (RWB) job for 1/3 the dealer rate with me helping and learning. Things went way south from the get go: the old bearing refused to come out in one piece and separated. The outer bearing came out with the wheel hub while the inner one remained sized on the axle. We managed to bang the outer race out with some effort, but the inner one would not budget. Very long and painful story short, the half shaft had to be taken off the car, and the stubborn inner race cut from the axle with a rotary saw. All in all it took about 3 hours just to get the old bearing off the car. The new one went in like a song. Had the old one come off in one piece, the whole project could have been finished in an hour. Instead it took 4+ hours of swearing, banging, cutting and pulling. On the way home I was counting my lucky starts that I had paid someone else to do this job. YMMV. > Special presser-oner to push the new bearing outer race into the > control arm housing. > Special presser-oner to press the hub into the inner race, or is > it the inner race onto the hub? Two round sockets again. > Special puller-oner to pull the axle into the hub. A hammer? > >From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >All I have to say on that one is that you're rear wheel bearing will > >be in very very very very very very bad shape by the time you can move > >the wheel in any way. > > > >So very very bad that it's borderline dangerous by the time the wheel > >can move at all, in a lateral motion. > > Which makes it sound like I should have dropped the car off at Bavarian > Professionals last week. All input welcome, TIA. FWIW, my 150K mile howling RWB did not exhibit any side play before it fell apart and caused all the headache during replacement. If you've got an extra $200 laying around, I would leave this job to a professional wrench. alex f ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2003 19:52:55 +0100 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Urethane bushings on e36 Neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes about E36 modifications: "The bracing (strut, shock and X) have no negative impact on ride quality." I agree on ride quality. I half-expected the presence of the brace to increase "crashiness" over very rough and broken surfaces, as vibration and movement from the front subframe is transmitted more directly into the chassis than via the subframe bushes alone. However I have noticed increased engine vibration, particularly at high revs, through the steering wheel and floorpan. This is a small price to pay, especially as increased vibration when cruising is only present above 100 mph or so. Andy T __________________________________________________________________________ Freeserve AnyTime - Go online whenever you want for just �6.99 a month for your first 3 months, that's HALF PRICE! And then it's just �13.99 a month after that. For more information visit http://www.freeserve.com/time/ or call free on 0800 970 8890 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6103 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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