[uucdigest]        Saturday, February 15 2003        Volume 03 : Number 6117



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] Drei Bond 1209 or RTV
       [uuc] LED signal bulbs???
       [uuc] Appropriate Tow Vehicle
       Re: [uuc] Appropriate Tow Vehicle
       Re: [uuc] brake lining light
       RE: [uuc] brake lining light
       Re: [uuc] brake lining light
       Re: [uuc] brake lining light
       [uuc] Re:  brake lining light
       [uuc] <E34> M50 non-vanos stumble and bumble on cold startup
       [uuc] How do you separate the CV joint from the diff drive flange?
       [uuc] Quaife FS 
       Re: [uuc] Quaife FS
       Re: [uuc] Quaife FS 
       Re: [uuc] How do you separate the CV joint from the diff drive flange?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:35:36 -0500
From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Drei Bond 1209 or RTV

oops, sounds like I just preached to the choir...Sorry.

David

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Christian Els
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 11:15 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] Drei Bond 1209 or RTV


I just did this job on my M50tu and I chose to use Permatex Hylomar instead
of DreiBond and certainly in place of any sort of RTV compound, which really
aren't meant for use retaining fluids despite shady used car lot's efforts
to the contrary.

Hylomar is the goods when there are surface imperfections precluding a
satisfactory dry bond (gee where'd the get the name for the German goo?),
and I have noticed there are a lot of bubbles in the head casting along the
cam cover sealing lip.

While I'm sure DreiBond works great, I don't know where to find it
conveniently either.

Regards,


Christian Els
Columbia, MO



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, 14 February, 2003 08:20
Subject: [uuc] Drei Bond 1209 or RTV


> I am planning on replacing my leaking valve cover gasket within the next
> few weeks (S50US).  I have the gasket set which includes the spark plug
> hole gaskets but TIS calls out the use of Drei Bond 1209 as a sealant
> for several of the surfaces.  Can I use plain old RTV sealant in place
> of the Drei Bond or do I really need to go to the dealer and get the
> factory approved magic elixir?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jamie Howton
> 2002 330i 5 Spd Steel Blue Metallic SP
> 1995 M3 5 Spd Arctic Silver
> 1979 Porsche 928 5 Speed Opalmetallic
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:39:22 -0500
From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] LED signal bulbs???

I have seen these LED replacements for signal bulbs from APC, any body here
using them or know about them?  I like the LED concept, but I know there
maybe drawbacks.  Right now I am looking for a bright, long life 3157
replacement bulb for my daytime runners on my truck, but am considering
using them in the ti too.

Thanks,
David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:18:00 -0600
From: "Donna and Terry Cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Appropriate Tow Vehicle

I have been passed by a diesel pickup towing a cattle trailer at speeds
close to, if not in excess of the world record.  Full of cows.  It probably
wouldn't stop as short as the BMW.  Back in the early seventies I pulled a
tandem axle Terry travel trailer that fast (briefly) with a 390GT Fairlane.
Then my wife woke up and made me slow down.  Would a police radar be
sufficient evidence for setting the record?  This strikes me as finding an
answer to a question never asked.

Terry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 20:39:49 -0800
From: "Bora Akyol (BMW)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Appropriate Tow Vehicle

On 2/14/03 8:18 PM, "Donna and Terry Cost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I have been passed by a diesel pickup towing a cattle trailer at speeds
> close to, if not in excess of the world record.  Full of cows.  It probably
> wouldn't stop as short as the BMW.  Back in the early seventies I pulled a
> tandem axle Terry travel trailer that fast (briefly) with a 390GT Fairlane.
> Then my wife woke up and made me slow down.  Would a police radar be
> sufficient evidence for setting the record?  This strikes me as finding an
> answer to a question never asked.
> 
> Terry
> 

Let me add to this. With a 500 dollar chip upgrade, a Duramax Diesel
can make over 400 HP and over 720 ft*lbs of torque and run 0-60 times in
the low 6s. This is 7K lbs vehicle.

Even in stock form, I had no problems towing a 7-8K trailer around 85 mph
and it would have kept going faster but I backed off.

Bora

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:56:59 -0600
From: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] brake lining light

List Hog's high tech solution is a well-placed length of electrical tape.

How elegant do you want your answer to be?


Christian Els
Columbia, MO


- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Levine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, 14 February, 2003 19:07
Subject: [uuc] brake lining light


> The brake lining light on my 1990 325ic just came on but the pads are 
> not worn. Any suggestions?
> _James Levine
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:39:21 -0800
From: "Brant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] brake lining light

James -

If the light is on bright, you have an open somewhere in the pad sensor
circuit.  You need to hunt it down.  If the light is on dim, you have
low brake fluid.

Brant

<<<<<From: James Levine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] brake lining light
The brake lining light on my 1990 325ic just came on but the pads are 
not worn. Any suggestions?
_James Levine>>>>>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 12:35:20 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] brake lining light

The E30 should be so smart....

This is something you see on the E39 and later, with low clusters. Your
"brake" light will come on yellow for fluid and red for pads.

E30 has separate lights for brake fluid and brake lining.


- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> If the light is on bright, you have an open somewhere in the pad sensor
> circuit.  You need to hunt it down.  If the light is on dim, you have
> low brake fluid.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 12:38:49 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] brake lining light

See www.koalamotorsport.com under "complimentary repair instructions" for the
three causes of this light, and remedies.


- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "James Levine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> The brake lining light on my 1990 325ic just came on but the pads are
> not worn. Any suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 12:51:56 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:  brake lining light

James, this can be one of several things:

The pad wear sensors (one at left front, one at right rear) wore out
prematurely.  Replace them.

The pad wear sensors were not replaced the last time the pads were replaced,
but should have been.  Replace the sensors.

One or both sensors failed.  Replace the sensor(s).

The car's circuit between the wear sensors and the dash light has a fault.
(Had personal experience with this in my former '87 325is.)  Troubleshooting
is a PITA.  Pull the bulb, or place a piece of black electrical tape over
the light on the dash.

You can test the circuit by removing the sensors and placing a jumper across
the connections where the sensors hook up in the wheel wells.  With jumpers
in place, the light should stay off.

Most of us inspect our brakes often enough that we don't really need the
sensors.

Good luck,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i

>Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 20:07:15 -0500
>From: James Levine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] brake lining light
>
>The brake lining light on my 1990 325ic just came on but the pads are
>not worn. Any suggestions?
>_James Levine

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 18:29:36 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] <E34> M50 non-vanos stumble and bumble on cold startup

My '92 525i 5-speed with the non-vanos M50 motor has been stumbling and 
bumbling a bit on cold (40 deg F) startup (hey, it's Vegas, 40 deg is cold... 
<g>).

I usually have to goose the gas a bit to get the idle up to 1000 instead of 
the 600-700 it wants to run at upon a cold start up.

Adding a load to the engine like the lights or seat heaters makes it want to 
die unless I add a bit of throttle input.

Car has only 89k miles.  Redline 10w-40 in the engine.  Redline ATF in the 
gearbox.  New stock plugs last weekend (no effect).  New fuel filter last 
weekend (no effect).  Both the plugs and filter hadn't been changed for 22k 
miles, so I didn't feel too bad about changing them.

I have a Conforti chip.

No check engine lights, etc.  Car passed smog easily in November.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Kirk Lachman
Sin City Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 16:37:37 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] How do you separate the CV joint from the diff drive flange?

Groups, I'm cross posting this to 3 lists, sorry if that bothers you.  I'm
trying to change the bad rear wheel bearing on my E30 1990 325i.  I removed
the 6 bolts (8mm internal hex) that hold the CV joint to the diff drive
flange, per the Bentley manual.  I was advised that, to get the parts to
separate, it might help to use a block of wood and hammer to tap the
outboard CV joint flange away from the diff drive flange.  But when I do
that, the whole batch of parts, including what I thought was the diff drive
flange, head outboard.  It looks like I'm pulling the drive flange right out
of the diff!  WTF?  (Translation:  What the heck?)

Let me make sure I understand what I've got here.  The bolts went in from
the outboard side through the outer flange, through a couple of inner parts,
and then into threaded holes in another, inner flange.  That inner flange is
the diff drive flange, no?

So if tapping the outer flange outward does not separate the parts, what are
other approved methods?

I uploaded a picture of the offending CV joint to the two Yahoo groups to
which this message is being sent.  Go to your group's photos page and look
for the last picture uploaded.  Sorry you UUC folks, there is currently no
place convenient to post the picture where you can see it.

I originally intended to document this whole process and then jokingly
mention that I hoped to accomplish the wheel bearing change-out in less time
than it took Brad to do his transmission swap.  Suddenly it doesn't seem
quite as funny.

TIA for any help,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 18:41:49 -0500
From: "BMWBITS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Quaife FS 

Usual non-association clauses apply ...seems a good preis tho'....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2402707449
&category=33731
Bill & Shirley Proud,
Tennessee..winters, Seattle..summers
Long commute in between .

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 21:33:09 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Quaife FS

Good price, but read the seller's feedback. Difficult to deal with, perhaps?

Ed

BMWBITS wrote:

>Usual non-association clauses apply ...seems a good preis tho'....
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 22:34:56 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Quaife FS 

Not a bad price, but buyer beware.  This Quaife fits ONLY the models he lists.
It will NOT work in any differential with a ratio lower than 2.93:1.  Lower,
of course, meaning a higher number, such as 3.07 up to 4.45.



- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "BMWBITS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Usual non-association clauses apply ...seems a good preis tho'....
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2402707449

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 22:40:23 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] How do you separate the CV joint from the diff drive flange?

The output flange of the diff is only held in place by a circlip, it comes out
quite easily and no harm is done if it does.

Tapping on the side of the inner CV joint is generally enough to dislodge it
from the output flange.  Get a bigger hammer if you have to.


- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> trying to change the bad rear wheel bearing on my E30 1990 325i.  I removed
> the 6 bolts (8mm internal hex) that hold the CV joint to the diff drive
> flange, per the Bentley manual.  I was advised that, to get the parts to
> separate, it might help to use a block of wood and hammer to tap the
> outboard CV joint flange away from the diff drive flange.  But when I do
> that, the whole batch of parts, including what I thought was the diff drive
> flange, head outboard.  It looks like I'm pulling the drive flange right out
> of the diff!  WTF?  (Translation:  What the heck?)
> Let me make sure I understand what I've got here.  The bolts went in from
> the outboard side through the outer flange, through a couple of inner parts,
> and then into threaded holes in another, inner flange.  That inner flange is
> the diff drive flange, no?
> So if tapping the outer flange outward does not separate the parts, what are
> other approved methods?

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6117
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