[uucdigest] Monday, February 17 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6118
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] LED signal bulbs??? Re: [uuc] brake lining light <wob> [uuc] Re: <E34> M50 non-vanos stumble and bumble on cold startup [uuc] Squeaky Leather & Door Seals RE: [uuc] Squeaky Leather & Door Seals [uuc] 8 series ?'s Re: [uuc] More driveline woes....Please help [uuc] <E28> Appearance of 'Oil Service" light on dash. [uuc] Need Truck shocks for an e34 [uuc] Rear End Noise Remains Elusive <longish> [uuc] e30 325is with a Chevy 454 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 22:12:15 -0600 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] LED signal bulbs??? Should be brighter and last longer than a filament bulb. About the only knock is that the angle of view can be a lot less than a bulb. Also, in a modern BMW that detects blown bulbs they will probably cause the system to indicate a bulb failure. Dennis 330i At 10:39 PM 2/14/03 -0500, you wrote: >I have seen these LED replacements for signal bulbs from APC, any body here >using them or know about them? I like the LED concept, but I know there >maybe drawbacks. Right now I am looking for a bright, long life 3157 >replacement bulb for my daytime runners on my truck, but am considering >using them in the ti too. > >Thanks, >David ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 22:19:44 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] brake lining light <wob> Christian, my former status as the Hog of List was earned on a different forum. Most UUCers are probably unaware of this moniker. And really, I don't think I can hold a candle to some of the more frequent contributors over here. BTW, when I had this brake lining light problem on my '87 325is, I didn't even bother with the tape, I just ignored the light. But this takes a certain mentality, one that can automatically, selectively ignore otherwise seemingly important information eminating from one's dash. Others have problems pulling that off. Scott Miller Frequent UUC Contributor GGC BMW CCA >Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 22:56:59 -0600 >From: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [uuc] brake lining light > >List Hog's high tech solution is a well-placed length of electrical tape. > >How elegant do you want your answer to be? > >Christian Els >Columbia, MO ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 22:25:30 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E34> M50 non-vanos stumble and bumble on cold startup Kirk, test the coolant temp sensor. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 18:29:36 EST >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] <E34> M50 non-vanos stumble and bumble on cold startup > >My '92 525i 5-speed with the non-vanos M50 motor has been stumbling and >bumbling a bit on cold (40 deg F) startup (hey, it's Vegas, 40 deg is cold... ><g>). > >I usually have to goose the gas a bit to get the idle up to 1000 instead of >the 600-700 it wants to run at upon a cold start up. > >Adding a load to the engine like the lights or seat heaters makes it want to >die unless I add a bit of throttle input. > >Car has only 89k miles. Redline 10w-40 in the engine. Redline ATF in the >gearbox. New stock plugs last weekend (no effect). New fuel filter last >weekend (no effect). Both the plugs and filter hadn't been changed for 22k >miles, so I didn't feel too bad about changing them. > >I have a Conforti chip. > >No check engine lights, etc. Car passed smog easily in November. > >Any ideas? > >Thanks, > >Kirk Lachman >Sin City Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 23:12:33 -0800 From: E3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Squeaky Leather & Door Seals Hi All: Quick question for the group: How do you quiet squeaky leather and door seals? I'm in the process of selling my 98 E36 M3/4 and recently took it in to get detailed. Car looks like new, but now my leather and rear fold-down seats squeak everytime the chassis flexes (speed bumps, driveways, etc.) Also I think my door seals squeak too. The damn detailers and their magic gloss bottle. Anybody have any tips? Thanks much for *any* ideas, Ed ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 09:10:28 -0500 (EST) From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Squeaky Leather & Door Seals Ed, Yes, it is difficult to know what exactly is in those bottles they use. (Nothing too good is my guess.) Anyway, get yourself a hold of some Leatherique and re-clean the contact points. The Leatherique cleaner is also good for the door seals. - - John S. --- On Sun 02/16, E3 < [EMAIL PROTECTED] > wrote: From: E3 [mailto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2003 23:12:33 -0800 Subject: [uuc] Squeaky Leather & Door Seals Hi All: Quick question for the group: How do you quiet squeaky leather and door seals? I'm in the process of selling my 98 E36 M3/4 and recently took it in to get detailed. Car looks like new, but now my leather and rear fold-down seats squeak everytime the chassis flexes (speed bumps, driveways, etc.) Also I think my door seals squeak too. The damn detailers and their magic gloss bottle. Anybody have any tips? Thanks much for *any* ideas, Ed _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 11:54:25 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] 8 series ?'s Well, I wish I'd paid attention to those emails concerning the 850's & 840's. Can anyone give me a decent understanding of what I'd want to consider about the 840's prior to purchasing? I've almost completely eliminated the 12 cylinders. Just can't see why I'd want the added expense of maintenence as well as the horrific expense of a potential engine/tranny rebuild...unless of course someone can set me straight on the 850's! I've noticed that there are a few 6 speeds out there, but have only seen them in the 850's thus far. Is the search for a manual in the '94-'95 models very rare? Were there engine block issues on the '94-'95 models? If so, what do I look for to see if the block has been replaced. Are the auto trannys OK for longevity...I'd really rather find a 6 speed. Is it reasonable to assume that the 840's are equal in cost to maintain as the 740's? What are some of the options available on that car? Did the vehicle come standard with traction control? Is the suspension on these puppies something really exotic (self leveling)? Is the tranny and engine identical to the 740's and 540's? Finally, is this the kind of car that you better have some really deep pockets just to maintain or are they a good choice for someone looking for a big bodied coupe to drive daily? My previous car was a '95 M3 that I did all of the maintence and suspension work on myself. Is it safe to assume that I can also work on the 840's myself or am I totally in the dark? Thanks for any advice on the 8 series. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 14:07:39 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] More driveline woes....Please help I agree with Kirk that it sounds like your problem is in the rear of the car. What about the differential mount, if it tears, the diff sags, the nose comes up and that could explain the drive shaft on the gas tank. As to the front sway bar resting against the bell housing, that's perfectly normal when the front wheels are off the ground in this car, so is no indication of a problem. After checking the rear subframe/diff mounts yet again, the next step is to go buy the correct engine and transmission mounts for the car, rather than the ones you've chosen, which raise the components, causing misalignment of the driveshaft. - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I keep thinking of the rear subframe mounts, but they are pretty new, > meaning they would have had to fail in only 5000 miles. I've pushed, > pulled, tugged on the rear subframe & just can't find that there's anything > amiss. If there's a better way other than pulling the mounts, I'd be glad > to try. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 15:03:53 -0500 From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E28> Appearance of 'Oil Service" light on dash. Hi All, I was driving along the other day, and looked down to notice that the "Oil Service" light had illuminated on my 85 535i for the first time since I have owned the car. I also noticed that the service indicator lights that run right-left varying in color from green to red had started to light up. the only one that has ever been on for the almost year I have had the car, has been the one on the far right (one red one), and I have changed the oil several times, and have never experienced the "oil service" light. I am coming up on another 3000 mile oil change, however the apperacne of this light is odd. Can anyone explain the sudden showing? Cheers Ron J 85 535i 73 911s 2.7 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 18:24:18 -0600 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Need Truck shocks for an e34 Anyone know if the trunk shocks for the e34 are cross-referenced with any other makes? E36? Thanks, David Moore 1995 540i with a weak trunk that loves to slam shut. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 19:40:14 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Rear End Noise Remains Elusive <longish> First, let me thank all of you who offered me suggestions on how to deal with the stubborn CV joint that would not separate, those who loaned me tools, and also those of you who told me how to do this job without all the special tools. Read on to see how this played out. To recap, I've been hearing a noise from the back end of my '90 325i. At first I couldn't tell if it was coming from the front or the back, but after fixing a bad front wheel bearing, it was easy to hear that the remaining noise was from the back. Last weekend my friend Bill and I had the back of my car up on jack stands and discovered that the left rear *hub* (actually we were grabbing the brake rotor hat) was very loose, so I thought I had a bad wheel bearing. So Saturday I bought a wheel bearing and a spare hub (can never be too prepared) from Double 02 Salvage (Hayward, CA, no affiliation), borrowed some wheel bearing tools, and started the job. Saturday I removed the axle nut retainer ("pull out", the Bentley manual says, HA!) and loosened the axle nut and CV bolts, but I couldn't get the inner CV joint to separate. Today Bill came back over and we got the CV joint to separate by putting the car in gear, putting on the wheel/tire and rotating it. We drove out the axle shaft with a block of wood and hammer, until the end of the axle was flush with the inner hub surface, then used a brass drift to drive it out the rest of the way. The next step is to remove the rear brake caliper and rotor. That is when I discovered that the brake rotor screw was loose. So we tightened it. And then there was no more play in the hub. Oops! We spun the hub a few times, but the wheel bearing sounded, looked and acted fine. For comparison, we pulled out the axle shaft on the other side and spun that hub. It sounded, looked and acted just like the one that had been "bad". So the good news is, I didn't have to replace the wheel bearing. But the bad news is, I still don't know what was making the noise. The loose brake rotor should not have mattered, since it is sandwiched between the wheel and the hub when the wheels are on the car. Anyway, we cleaned up the splines on the axle shafts and the matching parts inside the hubs and put the axles back in the car. I was concerned that we didn't have the special tool for installing the axles into the hubs, but cleaning up the splines and spraying some WD40 in there made it all go back together without too much trouble at all. Kind of made me wonder why you hear so many horror stories about this task! As soon as I can get a couple of axle nut retainers, I'll drive the car and once again try to find the source of the noise. (The wheel bearing came with a retainer, but I'll have to return it with the bearing I didn't use.) Now I suspect the diff. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 22:38:44 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] e30 325is with a Chevy 454 I hope this is a joke. If it isn't, this has got to be the worst handling and most-blasphemous BMW ever streeted. http://recycler.com/asp/AdDetails.asp?iID=40238&sBAC=562&bSQ=0 Chris 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com/m3/m3.htm 01 X5 http://www.inlacal.com/01x5/ ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6118 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
