[uucdigest] Wednesday, February 19 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6124
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash Re: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash [uuc] Re: <E28> Fuel Pressure Ratings. 535i M30 engine.. Stumbling Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing issue Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing i Re: [uuc] <E28> Door adjustment/missing buffer? Re: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing issue [uuc] Speaking of E28s - engine swapping [uuc] WANTED: e30 325is (1989-1991) Re: [uuc] Speaking of E28s - engine swapping ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 15:43:07 -0500 (EST) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash Owen, If you remove the wipers and the trim panel you'll find there are holes (don't remeber how many, 2 I think) that drain into the engine compartment. There are flattened rubber tubes (think of a drinking straw flattened at one end) plugged into the holes, presumably to prevent the water from running down the firewall. While water flows through just fine, solids do not and you will probably find them clogged with gunk - leaves, maple seeds, etc. If the drains are clogged the water can overflow and run into the DME compartment. I cleaned out the drains by running a length of heavy string trimmer line through the drain. I ended up dislodging one of them and since it wasn't very accessible to replace never put it back on. That was about a year and a half ago and I haven't had any ill effects from it's absence. Brian 94 325ic - -------Original Message------- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 02/19/03 04:56 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash > > 92 E36 325ia I know this is not uncommon, but I can't seem to find info on how to keep it from happening. I can't tell where the water is coming in -or where it's supposed to drain. Is there a bulletin or other tip on ensuring I don't have to replace the DME -again? Thanks Owen Mangan > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 18:50:44 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash SIB 41 03 93 Details how to clean the plenum drain and install a second one. Existing drain pipe is located behind the cylinder head of the engine and extremely hard to get to without removing the valve cover or the plenum cover. - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > 92 E36 325ia > I know this is not uncommon, but I can't seem to find info on how to keep > it from happening. I can't tell where the water is coming in -or where > it's supposed to drain. Is there a bulletin or other tip on ensuring I > don't have to replace the DME -again? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 15:41:34 -0800 From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E28> Fuel Pressure Ratings. 535i M30 engine.. Stumbling In amongst the damned FPR from the evil parts source writings I noticed this: >>>>and have the resonator in my custom exhaust system moved away from the feul lines, or have a heat shield put in between them, to ensure that no extra heat gets to the system and causes me trouble.<<<< Hmmm. Fire at the exhaust system. Custom exhaust. Hmm. In my limited experience "custom" is often another way of saying expensive, doesn't fit, and doesn't work. Of course maybe that's just me. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:10:19 -0500 From: "Pat Donahue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing issue I'm thinking the peak temperatures are during the actual firing. I'm also pretty familiar with lean running vehicles running quite a bit hotter. I suspect that with a lean burn you're not getting full ignition and fuel is burning more slowly and maybe getting ignited once again when air is added via an air pump. Also lost on the peak temperatures argument is the fact that excess fuel helps cool the engine.. Geeeze From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Peak temperatures are achieved at stochiometric fuel mixture. Going leaner > or richer than that will reduce temperatures. Normal operation for a car > with EGO feedback is stochiometric everywhere but full throttle. > > Gary Derian > > > > > Ron, a lean condition will not cause the exhaust to overheat, but a > > > misfiring engine will feed the catalyst with fuel and oxygen and that > will > > > make it overheat. > > > > Technically, not true - a lean condition can significantly elevate EGT. > > Whether this is germane to this problem is (of course) another story. > > > > -John ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:22:52 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing i John, You stepped in it....... we had a big discussion about this topic some time back... it took a while for me to accept too. You have to dig deep to find the reference info which supports Gary's statement (think closed loop cat systems). - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 16:30:45 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> Door adjustment/missing buffer? Paul, Kirk brings up a good point.... this piece is like the proverbial keystone you need it to keep from going nuts. The piece looks like an old bike chain guard with two rounded ends, one larger than the other. The newer ones are gray/grey in color whereas the older where sort of a translucent yellow. They fit into that space between the "C" latch and door metal. Dealers should have a ton of 'em. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:33:50 -0500 From: "roger n. katz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash Also, there's a grommet through the firewall where the harness enters to the DME -- make sure to give it a good seal with silicone and just for the belt-and-suspenders benefit, it doesn't hurt to wrap the DME in a zip-loc type of bag and seal it up nice and dry. AMHIK. Roger Brian Daley wrote: >Owen, > >If you remove the wipers and the trim panel you'll find there are holes (don't >remeber how many, 2 I think) that drain into the engine compartment. There are >flattened rubber tubes (think of a drinking straw flattened at one end) plugged into >the holes, presumably to prevent the water from running down the firewall. While >water flows through just fine, solids do not and you will probably find them clogged >with gunk - leaves, maple seeds, etc. If the drains are clogged the water can >overflow and run into the DME compartment. I cleaned out the drains by running a >length of heavy string trimmer line through the drain. I ended up dislodging one of >them and since it wasn't very accessible to replace never put it back on. That was >about a year and a half ago and I haven't had any ill effects from it's absence. > >Brian >94 325ic >-------Original Message------- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: 02/19/03 04:56 PM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] DME getting flooded in heavy rain or car wash > > > >>92 E36 325ia >> >> >I know this is not uncommon, but I can't seem to find info on how to keep >it from happening. I can't tell where the water is coming in -or where >it's supposed to drain. Is there a bulletin or other tip on ensuring I >don't have to replace the DME -again? > >Thanks > >Owen Mangan > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 19:33:57 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing issue When tuning for full power, you want to be rich of stochiometric. In that zone, leaner is hotter. If you are already at stochiometric, leaner is cooler. Yes, a lean mixture burns slower. Way lean will misfire. Gary Derian > I'm thinking the peak temperatures are during the actual firing. I'm also > pretty familiar with lean running vehicles running quite a bit hotter. I > suspect that with a lean burn you're not getting full ignition and fuel is > burning more slowly and maybe getting ignited once again when air is added > via an air pump. > > Also lost on the peak temperatures argument is the fact that excess fuel > helps cool the engine.. > > Geeeze > > > From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Peak temperatures are achieved at stochiometric fuel mixture. Going > leaner > > or richer than that will reduce temperatures. Normal operation for a car > > with EGO feedback is stochiometric everywhere but full throttle. > > > > Gary Derian > > > > > > > > Ron, a lean condition will not cause the exhaust to overheat, but a > > > > misfiring engine will feed the catalyst with fuel and oxygen and that > > will > > > > make it overheat. > > > > > > Technically, not true - a lean condition can significantly elevate EGT. > > > Whether this is germane to this problem is (of course) another story. > > > > > > -John > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 17:12:19 -0800 From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Speaking of E28s - engine swapping Gurus - I am toying with the notion of picking up a '87 535i 5spd and swapping it's engine (and maybe transmission) and engine/computer wiring harness into my '83 533i 5spd. Though my 533 isn't perfect it seems to be in better shape on the interior and exterior than any other E28s I've seen for sale (maybe 12-15 cars). My clutch is transmitting more vibration than I think it should, I've an oil leak at the headgasket area, and the engine has 233000 miles on it. Seems like going to the 3.5 with 50000 fewer miles and an engine computer capable of accepting a chip would be a nice upgrade. Bigger motor, light(er) car. Questions: Can the engine/transmission be pulled as a unit a la the '89 325 I did? Is the engine/transmission of the '87 535 a bolt in replacement for the engine/transmission of the '83 533? Is the engine wiring harness and computer a direct swap or would I be entering wiring Hell. What other 40 things am I missing? Is this a Really Bad Idea? I'm jonesing for another bimmer, and this '87 may be pretty (sub $1000) cheap. Parts! A plethora of parts! Tom (who needs custom? - I screw up enough all on my own) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 17:14:16 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WANTED: e30 325is (1989-1991) Would like a red or white exterior with black interior, 5 speed. I live in Los Angeles and would prefer to find a California, Nevada, Arizona or as far east as New Mexico. Cash waiting. Chris 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com 01 X5 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 18:09:55 -0800 (PST) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Speaking of E28s - engine swapping I don't have many specific answers, but I can answer some questions in a big lump. . . Some people say pulling the engine and tranny at the same time is easier than pulling one at a time. I had no problems dropping my transmission alone, but I don't know about the engine. I hear as long as you disconnect the sway bar bracket, you should be able to pull both items at the same time and save about an hour of labor. The US 533i wiring harness is one of a kind. This means you'll want a 535i wiring harness and ECU, as well. I would think that as long as you get everything plugged up to the 535i wiring harness, you should be good to go. Use your 533i flywheel and clutch. The 533i flywheel can be considered a stock lightened flywheel when compared with the 535i. Be sure to get a later alternator. They're higher amperage. I believe model years '87 and '88 had the 90/95A alternator. The intstrument clusters are slightly different, if I remember correctly. You may want to look into getting the 535i cluster, as well. Running an e34 535i intake manifold should get you a little more flow in that region. The 533i didn't have ABS. Not the earlier ones, at least. The 535i, on the other hand, did. You probably don't have to install the heavyass ABS controller, all of its lines, and the sensors, but it may be a nice thing to have. On the other hand, I hear stock ABS systems are too obtrusive for experienced performance drivers. That's about all I can think of right now. Hope this helps! Brad Couvillon '87 528e www.fatdaddybmw.com - --- T WALROD <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Gurus - > I am toying with the notion of picking up a '87 535i > 5spd and swapping it's > engine (and maybe transmission) and engine/computer > wiring harness into my > '83 533i 5spd. Though my 533 isn't perfect it seems > to be in better shape > on the interior and exterior than any other E28s > I've seen for sale (maybe > 12-15 cars). My clutch is transmitting more > vibration than I think it > should, I've an oil leak at the headgasket area, and > the engine has 233000 > miles on it. Seems like going to the 3.5 with 50000 > fewer miles and an > engine computer capable of accepting a chip would be > a nice upgrade. Bigger > motor, light(er) car. > > Questions: Can the engine/transmission be pulled as > a unit a la the '89 325 > I did? Is the engine/transmission of the '87 535 a > bolt in replacement for > the engine/transmission of the '83 533? Is the > engine wiring harness and > computer a direct swap or would I be entering wiring > Hell. What other 40 > things am I missing? Is this a Really Bad Idea? > I'm jonesing for another > bimmer, and this '87 may be pretty (sub $1000) > cheap. Parts! A plethora of > parts! > > Tom (who needs custom? - I screw up enough all on my own) __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! 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