[uucdigest] Friday, February 21 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6132
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] RE: Best gloves [uuc] RE: <misc> changes to your insurance policy Re: [uuc] E28 Engine Swap Re: [uuc] E28 Engine Swap [uuc] re: Homemade larger HFM tube, was fuel pressure regulators. Re: [uuc] RE: <misc> changes to your insurance policy [uuc] Re: gloves [uuc] RE: Best gloves [uuc] RE: Towing with an X5 [uuc] Re: Homemade larger HFM tube, was fuel pressure regulators. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 16:39:43 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best gloves In a message dated 2/21/03 4:34:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I can't get into the archives so I need to re-ask a question covered some time back....what is the best disposable glove? This last weekend for some brake work The cheapest ones! Gary Buff 95 318ti 03 325i ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 15:41:24 -0600 From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: <misc> changes to your insurance policy John, since I probably do not live in your state and do not have the exact copies of your policy before and after, I'll simply address the content of the changes as per your words below by giving my *opinion* of what they mean... Also... are you SURE that the same exclusion was not there in the past? Previous policies have indicated exclusions for nuclear reaction.. For example, my TX policy (written by the Texas Dept of Insurance) states.. we will not pay for: loss due to or as a consequence of: radioactive contamination discharge of any nuclear weapon (even if accidental) war (declared or undeclared) civil war insurrection; or rebellion or revolution With regards to your comments about cracked dashes, faded paint, and/or faded fabric, these have *never* been covered by insurance in my experience, as they are not losses that are sudden and/or accidental in nature... these are covered under the exclusion for damage due to "wear and tear" Mark Williams Dallas, TX claim rep by day... 91 ///M3 2.5L >Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 22:00:04 -0800 (PST) >From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] <misc> changes to your insurance policy > > My newest State Farm policy, in addition to being 20% higher this >period through no fault of my own, contains an interesting new twist. >There will be no coverage for loss to any vehicle that results from >nuclear reaction - radiation, radioactive contamination, accidental or >intentional. > Now I can understand an insurer not wanting to pay for new >electronics for a million cars at once if someone sets off an EMP. >Generally, anything that can happen to multiple people at once isn't >covered by insurance. More interestingly, they will now surely be >refusing to pay for anything relating to faded paint, fabric, or >cracked dashboards, as UV light is most certainly radiation produced >by a nuclear reaction. It's not as if this was a common payout before >now, but I just find it curious. > >- -- > "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." > -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 16:49:07 -0500 From: "mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E28 Engine Swap I would add Most of the euro spec E-28s I have seen, have crank windows in front, but power rear windows. haha, thought that was strange. My euro 85 524 TD has crank front windows, power rear and a power sunroof. Kinda strange Also, take a 535i anytime over a 533i, BMW made improvements to the interior, plus that torque goes along way to making the car feel faster. Now on the other hand, there are groups that believe the 533/633 motors were smoother revving and thus fun to drive. Having owned all of the above, I would take a 87/88 535i/is everytime. I noticed much less interior rattles etc with the 535s than the 533s I have been in, granted they are older, but 2 years relative to all of them being 10-15 years old at the time should not made that much difference. Mike Also, I have a 87 535is motor & trans out of a wrecked 535is at home, might be interested in selling it - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 2:50 PM Subject: Re: [uuc] E28 Engine Swap > Brett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > > "Actually, I said that ALL 533i's had manual seats. Of course I'm speaking > of > US market vehicles only, but anyone care to differ?" > > I'm not sure the 533i appeared in any markets outside North America - the > top E28 was the 528i, until the 535i appeared in 1984-ish (taking over from > the NA 533i?). The 528i, with 184 bhp, was a very fast car considering its > 30+ bhp power deficit vs the (M)535i. > > Traditionally, Euro-market BMWs have always been modestly equipped; a > wind-up window E32 is not uncommon. > > Andy T > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 16:59:58 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E28 Engine Swap I'd take the engine that the E28 never saw, the '88 and '89 cammed one from the E24 635CSi in the US. Ed mike wrote: >there are groups that believe the 533/633 motors were >smoother revving and thus fun to drive. Having owned all of the above, I >would take a 87/88 535i/is everytime. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 16:09:58 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] re: Homemade larger HFM tube, was fuel pressure regulators. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > re: Homemade larger HFM tube, was fuel pressure regulators. > > What oem fuel pressure regulators from other models or euro spec > engines can be swapped directly into an E36 //M3 (OBDII), us spec? None are necessary. Blindly bumping fuel pressure across the RPM range is a bad idea regardless. > I've seen Dinan and others list higher 'special' fuel pressure > regulators in Euro HFM conversions, Jim C euroHFM kit includes neither the fuel pressure nor new injectors. Draw your own conclusions. > I used 3 1/4 inner diameter plastic pipe and the rubber of a 3" > plumbing clamp coupler. this is 3/8 inch larger than the inner > diameter of the factory tube. EuroHFM is 3.5" in diameter. Not 3 3/8". > To adapt my new tube to the factory airbox, Stock US E36M3 airbox is 3.0" in diameter. Euro E36M3 airbox outlet is 3.5" in diameter (surprise, surprise) and is a small improvement. Shielded cone filter (K&N or foam) work the best. You are wasting your time adopting anything to the narrow US airbox. > stretch the rubber out over the outlet from the air filter box, > and over the inlet to the new tube. The tubing fits just barely > into the original throttle body boot. Silicon spray helps a lot > to squeeze this together. This is painful to read. JK, just buy a proper euroHFM kit from JimC or ECIS and get over with it. The kit will come with the new tube, a cone filter, euroHFM (can use x40 HFM instead), all the mounting hardware and a euroHFM JimC chip. > Flame away at me if you will, or give it a try if you're curious. > For $8., an Exacto Knife blade, and a few hours work, its worth > the effort. Not. > One negative is that the idle is slightly wavery occasionally. > Doesn't bother me, it might bother some of you. A washer with > a smaller size hole constricting the inlet from the throttle > body boot to the Idle Control Valve inlet tube ought to take > car of that problem. Great: a hack on top of a hack. > Enjoy, No thanks. alex f ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 16:04:34 -0600 From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: <misc> changes to your insurance policy Yeah, well when the revolution comes, insurance underwriters will be the first against the wall, man! It must be dark fun writing the policy fine print for these cataclysmic eventualities: can I get my dents pulled out if my car is damaged in an alien invasion? An asteroid strike? Spontaneous solar supernova? I don't see any specific exclusions... I assume since, e.g., civil war is excluded someone must have done some actuarial assessment of the risk of the event vs. the potential size of the payout. How the hell do you do that? Apparently, in the underwriter's estimation, there's some risk level that's low enough that no customer is likely to object to the exclusion, but high enough for the insurer to bother to mention it. Some of the other stuff, sadly, doesn't seem so far fetched these days. - -- SC (marvelling at insurance companies' post-revolution/post-apocalypse forward thinking) Mark and Heather Williams wrote: > we will not pay for: > > loss due to or as a consequence of: > radioactive contamination > discharge of any nuclear weapon (even if accidental) > war (declared or undeclared) > civil war > insurrection; or > rebellion or revolution ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 14:21:48 -0800 (PST) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: gloves > what is the best disposable glove? This last > weekend for some brake work > I purchased a box of the nitrile type but they > weren't very rugged. Kevin, I've never been able to specify a particular brand when buying gloves. I always seem to get whatever the medical supply houses have on hand, or whatever I can scrounge on ebay. That said, I've found that latex are quite flexible, but don't last too long and are usually succeptable to chemicals like gas, oil, brake cleaner. Nitrile are a little tougher and chemical resistant, but they are also less flexible. Depending on the price you pay, rubber gloves are only $0.07-0.10 each. If one tears, just mount another. If you want real protection you'll have to move up to a "Mechanix" style glove. Glove story: A couple years ago I cut a knuckle while wearing a latex glove. Surprisingly, the glove was not torn during the mishap and I kept working. By the time my project was done the finger had filled with blood. Squish, squish. ===== David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more http://taxes.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 15:16:10 -0800 (PST) From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Best gloves Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Guys, > > I can't get into the archives so I need to re-ask a question covered > some time back....what is the best disposable glove? This last weekend > for some brake work > I purchased a box of the nitrile type but they weren't very rugged. "Best" depends on the application. I like the Synetron Microflex Diamond Grip gloves for most car work, but they (like any latex glove) don't resist certain solvents such as gasoline and mineral spirits. Nitrile gloves survive those solvents better and don't irritate some people the way latex gloves do. Regardless, avoid powdered gloves. I get mine by the case here: <http://www.burneymedical.com/images/catbytype.html> Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii Oakland, CA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 15:21:02 -0800 (PST) From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Towing with an X5 Update on U-Haul auto transport trailers: Weight: 2000-2100 pounds Allowed load: 4000 pounds > Installation of the OEM hitch requires the rear bumper to be > removed. Half of that $1000 dealer charge is labor. An independent > hitch specialist will charge about $150 to install a Draw-Tite and > it has a higher tow rating than the OEM hitch. The safe tow rating is the lower of the vehicle tow rating or the hitch tow rating. Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii 95 Suburban K2500, FS Oakland, CA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 15:21:17 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Homemade larger HFM tube, was fuel pressure regulators. I anticipated some controversy over making my own larger HFM tube with the stock US spec sensor. Its clear there are different philosophies and approaches to performance. My HFM tube at 3/8 larger than US spec, 1/4 inch smaller than euro, will not increase max HP at higher revs as much as the 3 1/2 diameter Euro HFM. Euro HFM setups to me felt peaky. Based on prior dyno day tests of a euro HFM, I believe I _will obtain more torque. This is the same idea as using different venturi sizes in a carburetor. Its not the biggest venturi you fit in the carb, its the one that puts the power curve where you want it to be. A street car power curve is not what I would want if I was one of you track guys. Nor do I want a track car power curve on a street car. As a street car, its the midrange torque and throttle response rather than absolute top high end that I'm concerned with. Btw, this morning in 53 degree air wiht a cold engine, it started up and idled fine. Seems the slight occasional variance at idle (<50rpm, versus rock solid needle before) is with a hot engine when idling right after fuller throttle driving. then the system stabilized again. Having driven many thousands of miles with Weber sidedrafts in the past, to me this is not a concern. More important, after another drive with the larger tube today, no check engine light and the spark plugs still look fine. If nothing else, I'll modify my own FPR for about half a bar higher pressure. Internally these can't be different to modify than the old bell shaped and E30 styles. The DIY approach to mods is not always successful, however when it is, its where innovation originates. Some people's approaches is where other's people's profits stem from. We are each happy with our own approaches. Some people get off on expensive bang for the buck. With my car, I prefer the intimacy of doing it myself. Carpe Diem, 'jk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > >>re: Homemade larger HFM tube, was fuel pressure regulators. >> >> > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6132 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
