[uucdigest] Monday, February 24 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6138
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] E34 525iA steering- no worries mate! [uuc] Re: E30 325i ABS Diagnosis [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question Re: [uuc] Check Engine Light E30 Code 1211 Re: [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question RE: [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question [uuc] First Time Using Pressure Bleeder Re: [uuc] E30 325i ABS Diagnosis Re: [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question RE: [uuc] First Time Using Pressure Bleeder [uuc] E28 Weights ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 22:42:45 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E34 525iA steering- no worries mate! Well, as usual Brett's transpacial detective skills isolated the cause of the steering difficulty- steering linkage. The center and outer rods plus the idler arm were replaced (with some cursing thanks to the six ball joints). Car drives much better now. Once the lower arms are completed I'll take it for an alignment. If I get into this area again, the pickle fork used to separate the joints won't do (it tore up the boots). And my tie rod/pitman arm puller was too wide to fit over the arms. Any hints about how to get the ball joints apart? Don't tell me to tap/pound the outside of the arm, it has yet to work for me- I must be a weakling. Also, any tricks on seating the ball joint taper so the locknut won't turn the stud during final assembly? But, that work brought up a couple more questions. First, mostly out of curiosity, I measured the rim to fender height (per the Bentley). The measurement was over 1" greater than the Bentley spec (22 1/8 maybe? but an inch over nonetheless). As there is no tolerance, what is the likelihood that 1" over is acceptable? Secondly, when diagnosing the cause with my limited skills I rotated the tires front to back (got a pair of directional tires; thanks for the mismatch PO). The rear tires (which appear nearly new from the side) have much greater wear on the inside of the tire than the outside (probably 2-3/32s left on the inside edge, 7-9/32s on the outside). I know that some BMWs have this issue but isn't it typically those with lowered suspensions and other performance tricks? It's getting repetitive, but I still really mean it- thanks for all the (anticipated) replies. Cheers, Roland ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 22:52:18 -0800 From: "cnrbishop" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 325i ABS Diagnosis > Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'm trying to diagnose and repair an ABS brake failure on an E30 325i.....(snip)...relay(s) under the black plastic cover over the ABS pump: I don't recall > whether there is one relay or two here, but I have swapped in working > relay(s), so this is not the problem. Stan, Have you checked the over-voltage protection relay? It's under the left side of the dash, above the ABS control unit. The relay has a silver (aluminum) cover, and the connector usually has a piece of cloth tape wrapped around it. The over-voltage protection relay is known to fail when the vehicle is jump-started, and/or when the planets are in a certain alignment. ;-). The relay itself doesn't actually fail, but a small fusible link inside the relay fails. If you're good with a soldering iron, you can replace the link yourself with a piece of an old 2002 or VW ceramic fuse. But, I'd source a new relay, since replacing the link is kind of a guessing game as far as amperage. Take care, Chris ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 00:15:51 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question Have a set of M-tech rub strips for the wife's E36 328i. How do I get the old ones off? The new ones came with little condoms on the plastic clips. These are just shipping protection, right? These came with a rectangular opening in each front door strip which contains a simple "///M" emblem. Are there International Motorsport and Club Sport Emblems of the same shape? Thanks, Ed ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 00:18:25 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Check Engine Light E30 Code 1211 Daughter arrived back safely in Baltimore with light still illuminated. Thanks for the support and advice! I'll cut power off tomorrow and see if the light comes back on. Ed Ed MacVaugh wrote: > Thanks, > > She was brave enough to do the "stomp test" to get the code by > telephone direction, but won't take apart the trunk to pull a battery > cable . . . besides, she would lose her tunes, since the CD player > would need to be recoded and I have no record of which of the five > in-dash CD players is in her car (without pulling the unit and getting > the serial number). > > Ed > > KMS - Brett Anderson wrote: > >> Have her disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and see what happens. >> >> Alternately, if the vehicle is showing no sign of a problem other >> than the >> light, she should be ok for the drive home. >> >> >> ----------------------------------------------------- >> BMW Special Tool Rentals >> Pay per incident tech support >> ----------------------------------------------------- >> Brett Anderson >> KMS >> (440) 338 1650 >> www.koalamotorsport.com >> >> OSS committee member >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> >> >> >> >>> My daughter is reporting the above code on her E30 325is. The code >>> translates to a DME fault, I believe. Is this a possible spurious >>> error, >>> or should I be looking for a used DME? >>> She is in Norfolk. Can she safely drive this car back to Baltimore? >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 00:22:55 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question Ed MacVaugh wrote: > These came with a rectangular opening in each front door strip which > contains a simple "///M" emblem. Are there International Motorsport and > Club Sport Emblems of the same shape? yes. they're in the ETK somewhere, you just have to dig a bit. try the E36 M3 as I think I recall seeing them there once. they're kinda pricey ($30/piece or something silly like that). Ben ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 00:30:44 -0500 From: "Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question - -----Original Message----- From: Ed MacVaugh >Have a set of M-tech rub strips for the wife's E36 328i. >How do I get the old ones off? Pull. >The new ones came with little condoms on the plastic clips. >These are just shipping protection, right? AFAIK, no, you should leave them on. I have removed factory (port?) installed rub strips that had these intact. >Are there International Motorsport and >Club Sport Emblems of the same shape? Yes. From memory, there is the MI, M-Technic, Club Sport, M3, and perhaps also "///M" available. Personally, I've always had eye out for the coupe rub strips with _no_ emblem cutout at all. - - -Matt ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 21:34:40 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] First Time Using Pressure Bleeder Today I had an opportunity to bleed my brake using a borrowed Motiv Products pressure bleeder. While it certainly was worlds better than the old tech method (having a helper pump the pedal and hold it down while opening and closing the bleed screw), the process was not as fast as I expected it to be. Part of our concern was putting too much pressure on the reservoir. We pumped the pressure bleeder up to about 15 PSI, but were not real comfortable going any higher. Even with the bleed screws open plenty wide, the fluid did not rush out of the calipers, but it was more slow and steady, barely more than a fast drip. Were we overly concerned about the pressure for nothing? Or is this normal? Just wondering. When we were done with my brakes, my friend Bill removed his E39's clutch delay valve and we bled his clutch line. Even with the pressure bleeder hooked up, we used the have friend pump pedal method. I was the pedal pumper. Apparently this was the easier job. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 01:00:01 -0500 From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 325i ABS Diagnosis Thanks, Brett. I bought the car this way, so I don't know whether it was involved in a jump starting incident. When I pull down the kick panel I'll check the relay before the control unit. Can I swap in a good relay easily or do I need to do a visible check on the link inside the relay? I'm sure I'll figure it out. At least I was close on the inertia sensor -- chalk it up to a poor memory. BTW, I sold the inertia sensor off my parts car a while back. Is that thing riveted in or are those actually removeable fasteners? They sure baffled me, so I cut them. That certainly is an "interesting" solution that Opel used -- I think I'd skip that model if I was every searching for a rally car though. Stan KMS - Brett Anderson wrote: > Stan, did this problem occure immediately after jump starting the car, or > someone else's car? > > The first thing to check is the ABS relay that is located just above the ABS > control unit. It has a fusible link inside it. If it's bad, no ABS. > > The extra iX sensor you refer to is an inertia sensor. It's there, because > with 2wd, it's really hard to lock all four wheels, at the same time at least. > On the 4wd, it's very easy to lock all four wheels at the same time, fooling a > regular ABS system into thinking the car has come to a stop. > > You'll find a lot of 4wd ABS systems use this method, although often > internally to the control unit. Opel had a slightly different method on their > 4wd Calibra, they used an electronically controlled coupler that dis-engaged > the rear driveshaft when the brake pedal was depressed, turning the car back > into 2wd. > > - ----------------------------------------------------- > BMW Special Tool Rentals > Pay per incident tech support > - ----------------------------------------------------- > Brett Anderson > KMS > (440) 338 1650 > www.koalamotorsport.com > > OSS committee member ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 01:11:32 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Rub Strips Question All the kits I've seen for after sales installation have rectangular holes plugged with the "///M" ones, including coupes. Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks wrote: >-----Original Message----- >From: Ed MacVaugh > > > >>Have a set of M-tech rub strips for the wife's E36 328i. >>How do I get the old ones off? >> >> > >Pull. > > > >>The new ones came with little condoms on the plastic clips. >>These are just shipping protection, right? >> >> > >AFAIK, no, you should leave them on. I have removed factory (port?) >installed rub strips that had these intact. > > > >>Are there International Motorsport and >>Club Sport Emblems of the same shape? >> >> > >Yes. From memory, there is the MI, M-Technic, Club Sport, M3, and perhaps >also "///M" available. > >Personally, I've always had eye out for the coupe rub strips with _no_ >emblem cutout at all. > >- -Matt > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 22:14:56 -0800 From: "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] First Time Using Pressure Bleeder I have the ultimate garage version of the pressure bleeder. This version uses an air compressor with a regulator. The regulator is set to 15psi and the brake fliud comes out the bleeder valves with force on my brother-in-law's 993 that I just did. You're recommend to borrow it. - -John - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott & Charlotte Miller Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2003 9:35 PM To: UUC Digest Subject: [uuc] First Time Using Pressure Bleeder Today I had an opportunity to bleed my brake using a borrowed Motiv Products pressure bleeder. While it certainly was worlds better than the old tech method (having a helper pump the pedal and hold it down while opening and closing the bleed screw), the process was not as fast as I expected it to be. Part of our concern was putting too much pressure on the reservoir. We pumped the pressure bleeder up to about 15 PSI, but were not real comfortable going any higher. Even with the bleed screws open plenty wide, the fluid did not rush out of the calipers, but it was more slow and steady, barely more than a fast drip. Were we overly concerned about the pressure for nothing? Or is this normal? Just wondering. When we were done with my brakes, my friend Bill removed his E39's clutch delay valve and we bled his clutch line. Even with the pressure bleeder hooked up, we used the have friend pump pedal method. I was the pedal pumper. Apparently this was the easier job. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 22:36:05 -0800 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E28 Weights Last week I posted that my U.S. spec E28 533i weighed about the same as my U.S. Spec. E38 535i, so I decided to hunt around to see exactly what they weighed, but I couldn't find a weight for the U.S. Spec. 535i. Can anyone find an article or site with the E28 535i weight. The lightest of the E28s was the barn burning 90 hp 1.8L 4cyl hot rod 518 that went 0-60 in 13.6 seconds... 2,513 lbs. Euro 518 (4/83 Roundel) 2,910 lbs. Euro 528i (4/83 Roundel) 2,960 lbs. U.S. 528e (4/83 Roundel) 3,067 lbs Euro M5 (Euro Magazine) 3,153 lbs. Euro M5 (URL Below) 3,120 lbs. U.S. 533i (4/83 Roundel) 3,145 lbs. U.S. 524td (8/85 Roundel) 3,420 lbs. U.S. M5 (URL Below) http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/WhatMadeM5HandleGrea t.html 3,483 lbs. SA M5 (South African Magazine) 3,504 lbs. U.S. M5 (Car & Driver) Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6138 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
