[uucdigest] Tuesday, March 11 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6204
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] FOR SALE: 525ia TOURING (CALIFORNIA CAR) RE: [uuc] Re: Buying older 3 series RE: [uuc] Re: Buying older 3 series [uuc] Engine Broken by Carrier Re: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain RE: [uuc] Engine Broken by Carrier [uuc] Timing Belt and Water Pump Re: Re: [uuc] <E28> K&N Oil and Fouling the Air Meter [uuc] Helmet sale [uuc] Engine Operating temp Question RE: [uuc] Timing Belt and Water Pump [uuc] '95 M3 Engine Noise ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 00:07:54 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FOR SALE: 525ia TOURING (CALIFORNIA CAR) Group, I wanted to give the digesters a head start on this car before I put it on eBAY. BEAUTIFUL Oxford Green Metallic/Tan interior 2001 525ia Touring. The car is in immaculate condition and has very low miles. I've created a web page for the car which has more information, VIN, Warranty Info and PLENTY of pictures: http://www.inlacal.com/525touring/ If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Chris 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com 01 X5 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 12:52:53 +0100 From: "Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Buying older 3 series > > Of the older 3 series, which are the most trouble-free? What should > > I be looking for -- and what might I be able to find -- in the > > $5-10,000 range. > > If you decide for an E36 3-series, try to avoid those built before > Fall 1993. It took BMW three years to debug the model. Took all my money, my girlfriend and coredumped mylife. Woho.. - -- Ulf No more E36 junk.. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 13:05:23 +0100 From: "Ulf Bertilsson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: Buying older 3 series As an old E36 fan, I find E30 quite nice. Cheap simple and good comfort. Handles way far better than I belived. 316/318 are a bit to dull. Take in account of the fuel cost for such an fun car, it's an shame to not have the power. Here over the pond (Ero) I'm quite found of 320I. It is actualy possible for me to drive at rational speeds. Good luck and welcome to the BMW clan. Don't think about getting an old E36, anything older than 93 are junk. - -- Ulf > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott & Charlotte Miller [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 12:17 AM > To: UUC Digest > Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Re: Buying older 3 series > > > Neil, the E30 3 series cars are fairly durable. If your son > is responsible > enough to handle a car with a little power, an '89 or '90 > 325is, or a '91 > 325i Sport Package (same thing) would be a nice sporty > choice. The '90s > and '91s have a driver's side air bag. If you don't want to > trust him with > that much power, a '90 or '91 318is has similar handling (a > little better, > actually) and will also get better fuel economy. Both years have the > driver's side air bag. All of these have ABS brakes. > > Some of the early E36 cars (1992 through 1995) are fun and > fall within your > budget range, but from what I've read here and in the > Roundel, they have > more maintenance issues than the E30. > > HTH. BTW, how is the play writing business? > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > 1990 325i > > >Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 09:50:58 -0500 > >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Subject: [uuc] Re: Buying older 3 series > > > > My son's '92 Sentra SE-R totalled this weekend by an SUV > that plowed into > him while he was stopped. >I'm looking to replace car with > older 3 series > so he can be introduced to joys of BMW ownership. > > > > Of the older 3 series, which are the most trouble-free? > What should I be > looking for -- and what might I >be able to find -- in the > $5-10,000 range. > > > > Advice/suggestions/leads much appreciated. TIA. > > > >Neil Simon > >Wash, DC > >99 M Coupe > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 07:18:32 -0600 From: "Bill Yates" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Engine Broken by Carrier The freight carrier I hired broke the V8 BMW engine I bought. When the engine supplier filed the claim, the carrier says they are only responsible for $1 per pound = $250. There was no place on the shipping form to purchase insurance and none was bought from a third party. Am I stuck with a $2500 paperweight? Thanks Bill Yates [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 08:30:48 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain Capacitor charging would not cause sudden drops in current. The problems you describe are why Brett says to hook the meter up first, then disconnect the battery. Gary Derian > Kurt - > > After disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected for a couple > of minutes, when I connect an ammeter between the negative terminal and > cable it reads as follows: > > Upon connection: 400 mA > After about 5 Seconds: 239 mA > After about 15 Seconds: 151 mA > > The changes in amperage were sudden, not a gradual drop. I suspect that > the initial higher drains are being used to recharge capacitors. I do > not recall how long I waited to see if the drain would drop below 151 > mA, but it was a while. > > Text books suggest that 50 mA is appropriate for a generic car, but BMWs > have a lot of electronic stuff. > > 0.3 Amps times 48 hours equals 14.4 amp-hours. Your battery should have > a capacity of at least 60 amp-hours, so a 0.3A drain for two days should > not completely discharge the battery. When my battery was new, it would > tolerate (only just) five weeks of non-use and still start the car. > > Did your battery shops perform a load test on your battery, or only just > note that it accepted a charge? > > If you want to further test your car, you will need to start unplugging > components. > > Brant > > <<<<<<Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 22:17:31 -0800 > From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain > . . . . . . . > If I hook up a multi-meter between the negative battery cable and the > negative terminal, how much drain should I be seeing? If I'm reading > my multi-meter correctly it reads .3 A or 300mA. Is this a lot? > > The fact that this started happening after I completely drained the > batter, makes me suspect the battery as the culprit, but if I unhook it > completely the battery holds its charge. Thoughts? > > Thanks, > > Kurt>>>>>> > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 09:02:11 -0500 From: "Money, Jack (J.J.)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Engine Broken by Carrier Bill, If there was no extra insurance coverage you may very well be out of luck, sorry to say. Whenever I ship things via freight, especially engines, I always make sure it's covered for the value of the item. I find it strange that there was no provision for this with your shipper. Personally, unless you denied insurance coverage, my first thought is that the engine supplier is responsible for it. If you purchased it from a private individual you may have a problem but if you bought it from a business then you would expect them to cover it for full value. I always insure my shipments (business and private) unless the customer specifically asks otherwise. To me, the shipper/seller assumes the risk. Not sure how you can handle it but that's my opinion and I'd be talking to the seller! Good luck! Jack Money '89 325iX '90 M3...future uncertain #86 JP M3 www.elephantmotorsports.com **************************************************************************** ****** The freight carrier I hired broke the V8 BMW engine I bought. When the engine supplier filed the claim, the carrier says they are only responsible for $1 per pound = $250. There was no place on the shipping form to purchase insurance and none was bought from a third party. Am I stuck with a $2500 paperweight? Thanks Bill Yates [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 09:45:17 -0500 From: "Joseph T. Baptista Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Timing Belt and Water Pump Is it recommended for the timing belt and water pump in a 1996 328i (E36) to be replaced? If so, when is it recommended? I have 96K miles on a recently purchased E36, is there anything else that I should consider replacing? Thanks in advance Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 09:44:47 -0500 From: Ray Bahr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Re: [uuc] <E28> K&N Oil and Fouling the Air Meter Hi All, In a previous (Porsche) life, I ran into this problem. Turns out that the MAF (AKA Hot Wire) system has an initial high(er) current surge that is used to burn off crud on the wires. The oil from the filter can get on the wire(s) and will not be removed by this but actually get baked on and effectively reduce the surface area of the wires making the readings less accurate. What I had to do was to dis-assemble the MAF, remove the sensor, and GENTLY clean the wire. I used alcohol and Q-tips to do this. Ray Bahr ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 09:49:19 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Helmet sale Hello groups, Just in case anyone is interested, I noticed that bikebandit.com is having a 40% off sale on all of their helmets. I don't think they have anything but bike helmets, but just in case anyone is looking for one that will handle their bike & track needs, their might be some good deals to be had. Chris B. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 09:50:51 -0500 From: Ray Bahr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Engine Operating temp Question Hi All, My 095 E36 M3 has been running cold. Even though these Boston days have been cold, the temp guage barely moves off the edge and there is little to no heat. Is this the thermostat stuck open? Fluid level are correct. BTW I just had to replace the battery in this car (in my 2001 S4 as well - bad week for batteries) and found that there are 2 choices - OEM for ~$130 or Interstate for ~$85. The electrical specs - CCA and A ratings are similar, the Interstate is physically the same width and height but not as long. It fits and there is even a clampdown that can be used. One also needs to use a new vent kit supplied with the battery. Ray Bahr ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 09:57:22 -0500 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Timing Belt and Water Pump There is no timing belt, but rather a timing chain. Replacement is not mentioned anywhere in the maintenance schedule that I've seen, and I've never seen it discussed. I'd be interested to hear if someone thinks otherwise, but I've never considered replacing mine ('94 325i - 120,000 miles). The water pump should be O.K. as well, as it is late enough to be of the metal impeller variety. It may still be recommended to change the thermostat housing; I think it is still plastic on the '96's? I still have the plastic one in my '94, but have an aluminum replacement on hand for when I get around to it. Other than that, I would say radiator for sure. Find one online for $150 bucks or so, much cheaper than the dealer. They are known to crack at the upper hose neck. I replaced mine at 105,000 even though it was still fine. The rest should be covered in the maintenance schedule. Chris B. > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Joseph > T. Baptista > Jr. > Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2003 9:45 AM > To: Bmw-Digest (E-mail); Bmwuucdigest (E-mail) > Subject: [uuc] Timing Belt and Water Pump > > > Is it recommended for the timing belt and water pump in a > 1996 328i (E36) to > be replaced? If so, when is it recommended? > > I have 96K miles on a recently purchased E36, is there > anything else that I > should consider replacing? > > Thanks in advance > > Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 09:07:20 -0600 From: "Tolsdorf, Geoffrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] '95 M3 Engine Noise UUC'ers, I spent this past weekend at Road Atlanta (great track) doing the Peachtree school. For the most part, my bone stock '95 M3 performed flawlessly. And I was sharing the car with a friend so it was pulling double duty and loving it. Unfortunately, after four sessions on Sunday, we noticed a noise coming from the front of the car. Similar to a lifter tick, it is deeper in tone and the timing is consistent with RPM's. It sounds like it's coming from the lower front of the engine but we can't be absolutely sure. It is very apparent at idle but seems to disappear when revved. The car drives perfectly. Several very knowledgeable people gave a listen and the theories ranged from a stretched serpentine belt (causing the auto tensioner to knock against its lower limit) to a groove in the belt itself that is hitting one of the pulleys. I had pulled the undertray off the day before (it was about to come off) and some suspected I might have kicked a stone up into the belt causing the problem. While it's difficult to diagnose a sound via e-mail, I was hoping some might have experienced the same problem. The car has only 37,000 miles and it's been about 2,000 miles since the entire front end was rebuilt after I hit a deer last summer. Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Geoff St. Louis BMW Club F�r die Liebe des Fahrens ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6204 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
