[uucdigest]          Tuesday, March 11 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6203



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] <wob> Re:  What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual
       Re: [uuc] [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?
       [uuc] Re:  [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?
       Re: [uuc] 95 M3 for sale $12,975 or best offer by 3/15/2003
       Re: [uuc] What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual
       [uuc] <WTB> 1988 528e SF Bay Area
       [uuc] RE> Battery drain
       Re: [uuc] <E36> Doorloocks 
       Re: [uuc] F1 <SPOILERS>
       Re: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain
       RE: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain
       Re: [uuc] <wob> Re:  What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 15:59:54 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <wob> Re:  What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual

Brian, this is basically the Brad Covullion (sp?) experience, only with
M-priced parts.  The parts cost will be insignificant compared to the 7 or 8
weeks needed for the conversion job.   (Sorry Brad, but it was too easy to
not comment.)

Scott Miller, not helping any
GGC BMW CCA

>From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual
>
>Just doing some thinking this afternoon.  I talked with a guy the other day
>that had a friend that converted his automatic M3 to manual for under
$1500.
>
>Has anyone done this, and if so, what was involved in terms of time and
>money
>
>Brian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 14:05:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?

Hmmm..."San Francisco", and a "car that has not been driven on a 
more than an average number of hills".  Maybe a trip to Kansas would change your 
perspective on what is "an average number of hills"?  On a serious note, you mention 
that the clutch has been stiff since you got the car.  I'm not sure if the E30 has a 
hydraulic clutch or not (I'm sure someone will chime in).  If it's a cable-actuated 
clutch the cable may be binding, which could account for both the stiff pedal and the 
slipping clutch (if it's sticking enough to prevent the clutch from fully engaging).

Brian Daley
'94 325ic (sorry, it's an E36.  Don't know too much about E30's)
- -------Original Message-------
From: Olivia Simantob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 03/10/03 04:02 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?

> 
> Hi Digesters,

Does anyone know how much it should cost to replace the clutch in a '93 
325ic?  My clutch has started slipping a little and the shop I have 
been taking it to in San Francisco estimated it would be $1-2K, 
depending on whether anything else has been damaged by the wear on the 
clutch.  Does this seem reasonable?  Is it normal to need to replace 
the clutch at only 65K miles on a car that has not been driven on a 
more than an average number of hills?  The clutch on my car has also 
been extremely stiff since I got it four years ago.  Any guesses as to 
whether replacing the clutch will actually "fix" this?

Thanks in advance for any info!

Olivia
'93 325ic

> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 16:23:08 -0800 (PST)
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:  [E30] 325ic Clutch Replacement Pricing?

On Mon, 10 Mar 2003, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote:

>  Assuming high at 8 hours at a labor rate of $80, that's $640.
> (Bill Arnold in San Rafael charges $80 per hour; Bavarian
> Professionals in Berkeley charges $90 per, but gives BMW Car Club
> members a 10% discount on the labor.)  So, $1000 is not out of
> line.

 Schulba's rate in Belmont is $95/hour, so you have another local
scary price rate to consider.

> >Does anyone know how much it should cost to replace the clutch in a '93
> >325ic?  My clutch has started slipping a little and the shop I have
> >been taking it to in San Francisco estimated it would be $1-2K,
> >depending on whether anything else has been damaged by the wear on the
> >clutch.  Does this seem reasonable?  Is it normal to need to replace
> >the clutch at only 65K miles on a car that has not been driven on a
> >more than an average number of hills?  The clutch on my car has also
> >been extremely stiff since I got it four years ago.  Any guesses as to
> >whether replacing the clutch will actually "fix" this?

 Odd, I have the same car.  My clutch was also stiff when I bought it
in '96.  At about 40k miles, I had the clutch replaced.  The mechanic
called and said he found aftermarket clutch parts in there already.
Zoiks!  Original owner must have been truly bad at driving it.
 Anyway, the new clutch will be pure bliss when you get it back.  You
won't believe how different it will feel.  As others have said, let
them replace nearby parts like seals.  It's so much work to get in
there, you might as well.  The new clutch, driven properly, will last
a very long time.  You know which hills to avoid.  :)

- --
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 19:27:23 -0500
From: "mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] 95 M3 for sale $12,975 or best offer by 3/15/2003

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> 95 M3 coupe. Automanual 5 speed

Wow that is rare!!! never heard of that!

Heard of 5 spd manuals or 5spd automatics, but a 5 spd automanual,  way cool

Mike

LOL

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 16:29:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual

If you can do the job yourself and shop for the parts
at the junkyard.  Sure $1500 is not impossible.  Few
years ago I heard it was done in a weekend by a
"driveway mechanic" (I think they rarely slept and
ate, too).  They had it planned out VERY carefully. 
They made sure they had every little nut and bolt
necessary.

The most common answer to that question (especially if
you want a shop to do it) is to sell it and buy a
manual.  

Mike

Mike
- --- Brian Collins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Just doing some thinking this afternoon.  I talked
> with a guy the other day
> that had a friend that converted his automatic M3 to
> manual for under $1500.
> 
> Has anyone done this, and if so, what was involved
> in terms of time and
> money
> 
> Brian
> 


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 19:53:52 -0500
From: "Darrel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> (by way of UUC Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>)
Subject: [uuc] <WTB> 1988 528e SF Bay Area

I'm posting this for a member who is having posting problems - md
===============
Greetings,

A friend of my Brother in Law is looking for a 1988 528e, must be an '88, 
must be a 528, body and interior must be in good shape, mechanical can need 
some work.  Any color but red, they did not specify a transmission type so 
I guess that's open either way.  Anyone that has one, or knows of one go 
ahead and contact me off list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and I'll pass the info on.

Thanks,

Darrel
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
85 535i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 17:24:56 -0800
From: Harvey Chao <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE> Battery drain

Well, you may be right on both counts:

The battery holds a charge when disconnected, but it's capacity is so 
reduced due to the extended discharged state that it's capacity is 
severely diminished.

What you need to do is have the battery charged, let it sit overnight or 
put a load on it to drain off the "surface charge" and then have it load 
tested.

Harvey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 18:44:46 -0800
From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36> Doorloocks 

At 12:56 PM 3/10/03, Andrew E. Skopp wrote:
>On my E36 M3 4 door, the left side rear door lock has begun to act 
>strangely.  Half the time or so, it does not respond to the power door 
>lock switch on the console or via remote.  The other half the time it 
>does.  Manually lifting or depressing the knob operates the door lock 
>fine.  Any thoughts on what the gremlin could be?  Thanks in advance,

Bad door lock actuator. BTDT, on both sides. About a $50 part (try 
Bimmerparts.com or Nick Alexander or Pacific BMW), and about an hour or so 
to replace.

Having a Bentley helps, since it does seem to require that the window glass 
come out (you have to move the divider between moveable window and the 
fixed window).

Hope that helps,
Jim Bassett
1998 M3/4 - with 3 out of 4 actuator replaced
1992 325is #44 A5/JP

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 19:56:05 -0800
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] F1 <SPOILERS>

Dorffer, Rich at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> Well, it wasn't a complete loss, as you were wrong.  Kimi was 3rd, behind DC
>> and JPM.  :)
> 
> JPM's comments on the post race interview were classic.  I love listening to
> him.  No excuses, not even his tires or his strategy and said he would do it
> again.  He seemed pretty pissed off he wasn't one step higher on the podium.
> Close but no cigar...err...champagne.

His comment at the end of Day 2 Qualifying was an all-time classic.

Announcer:  Michael, it seems like the F2002 chassis still has some life
left in it.

Montoya:    Humph.  Tell me about it.

LOL!  Even my wife cracked up.

- - Mark
- --
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 20:17:22 -0800
From: Chris Baisley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain

Amen to the below.  It took me a lot of mucking around and head scratching 
to eventually determine that my interior light delay relay was "sticking" 
and causing similar symptoms.  Unhooking the battery to but the ammeter in 
series released the relay, which in normal operation was not releasing.  If 
you get nowhere with other diagnostics, worth a shot pulling this relay and 
seeing if your problem goes away.

At 09:10 AM 3/10/2003 -0500, KMS - Brett Anderson wrote:
>When you're checking draw, you must NOT allow the power to the vehicle to be
>interuppted when hooking up your equipment.  What that means is you must run
>your DVOM in series with the negative cable, then disconnect the negative
>cable.
>Failing to do this will allow any "sticking" electronic components to
>de-energize and release, giving you a false reading.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 21:38:22 -0800
From: "Brant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain

Kurt -

After disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected for a couple
of minutes, when I connect an ammeter between the negative terminal and
cable it reads as follows:

Upon connection:  400 mA
After about 5 Seconds:  239 mA
After about 15 Seconds:  151 mA

The changes in amperage were sudden, not a gradual drop.  I suspect that
the initial higher drains are being used to recharge capacitors.  I do
not recall how long I waited to see if the drain would drop below 151
mA, but it was a while.

Text books suggest that 50 mA is appropriate for a generic car, but BMWs
have a lot of electronic stuff.

0.3 Amps times 48 hours equals 14.4 amp-hours.  Your battery should have
a capacity of at least 60 amp-hours, so a 0.3A drain for two days should
not completely discharge the battery.  When my battery was new, it would
tolerate (only just) five weeks of non-use and still start the car.

Did your battery shops perform a load test on your battery, or only just
note that it accepted a charge?

If you want to further test your car, you will need to start unplugging
components.

Brant

<<<<<<Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 22:17:31 -0800
From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30 325is> Battery Drain
. . . . . . .
If I hook up a multi-meter between the negative battery cable and the 
negative terminal, how much drain should I be seeing?   If I'm reading 
my multi-meter correctly it reads .3 A or 300mA.  Is this a lot?

The fact that this started happening after I completely drained the 
batter, makes me suspect the battery as the culprit, but if I unhook it 
completely the battery holds its charge.  Thoughts?

Thanks,

Kurt>>>>>>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 22:57:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <wob> Re:  What is needed to convert an automatic M3 to a manual

Scott, you're a bastard just like every other person
on the E30 group that makes fun of me.  : -)

Brian, I spent about $1400 in new and used parts to
convert my '87 528e from an auto to a manual.  Let's
not go into how long it took me, because there were
oogles of things that, if I had planned properly,
would not have held me up.

For an e36, parts will be more expensive.  For an e36
M, they'd be even more expensive than that, I would
guess.  If you can swing a few thou for a transmission
option that was offered in your model when new, then I
guess you can go for it.

FWIW, I spent $1400+ in parts and about 2 months in
time -- between broken transmissions, clutch jobs, not
getting parts on time stripped downpipe nuts, etc.  I
would do it again in a heartbeat (and actually have
helped a fellow e28er do the hard part of the
conversion, recently) and say that it was worth EVERY
PENNY AND EVERY SECOND OF MY TIME.  Every time I drop
the clutch at 4,000 RPM, I tell myself that I woulda
done it again in a heartbeat.

For info and pictures on my conversion:

http://www.fatdaddybmw.com/tranny

Hope this helps.

Brad "Shifty" Couvillon
'87 528e <-- Dinan-chipped, 3.46-diffed, 5-speed
conversion, Bav Auto / Bilstein Sports



- --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Brian, this is basically the Brad Covullion (sp?)
> experience, only with
> M-priced parts.  The parts cost will be
> insignificant compared to the 7 or 8
> weeks needed for the conversion job.   (Sorry Brad,
> but it was too easy to
> not comment.)
> 
> Scott Miller, not helping any
> GGC BMW CCA

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------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6203
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