[uucdigest]         Wednesday, March 19 2003         Volume 03 : Number 6229



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] FS 2001 330Ci - Premium,Sport, Cold pkg. 7400 miles Chicago
       Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions
       [uuc] 735i issues.
       [uuc] 1990 735i opinions
       Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions
       Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions
       [uuc] Where's my keyless entry connector?
       [uuc] <E28>  535i tuned up and not hesitating anymore.. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 13:25:15 -0600
From: "Dave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] FS 2001 330Ci - Premium,Sport, Cold pkg. 7400 miles Chicago

$37,000, in Chicago, Red with Tan Leather. Sport, Premium and Cold Weather
 packages, Xenon,  Steptronic, CD,  moon roof, Harmon Kardon premium sound,
17 in Sport rims and second set of Winter tires and alloy rims.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:03:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Joe Tan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions

On a separate topic, Isn't European Delivery kind of a
oxymoron? I mean, a brand new motor that needs to
break-in and the autobahn. Not a good combination I
would think...? Just wondering.



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 15:10:59 -0500
From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 735i issues.

It was written>>>Anything I need to be aware
of regarding these cars?  BTW, the asking price is $4500, I think I can
get it for less than $4000.  Your experience and/or opinions regarding
this model of car would be very much appreciated.>>>

I have an 88 735i with 234.5k miles.

It is a maintenance hog.  Then again I like everything to work, and these 
are very old high performance cars .

  the heater is problematic(2 "sword" fan speed regulators, 2 AC 
Condensers, 2 Aux fans,heater fan,heater core) the dash needed a new 
motherboard, various wiper and lighting modules have needed replacing, as 
well as the entire front end control arms(2 times ,ball joints, shocks,) 
steering components 2 times), a head gasket, the driveshaft, the radiator, 
waterpump, the steering shaft universal, brakes, rotors, Gas 
tank,  headlights, body work, , wiper motor, Brake accumulator ball, 2 
alternators, top strut swivel joints, several batteries(like 4) , rear 
subframe mounts, and dogbones, and one front hub bearing, and a brake 
caliper , and the list goes on, this is just all I can think of off the top 
of my little brain...

I am running Balo rotors and Mintex brake pads, which cost $125 for the front.

The front control arms and brake rotors need to be tight, or the car will 
develop a famous shimmy on braking, and a shake that you can chase around 
forever at 55-60mph.  This is most noticable when you stand on the brakes 
entering an off ramp, and decelerate thru 60 mph.
Strangely enough the exhaust is original, as are the tranny, fuel pump, and 
the starter.  I just replaced the fourth set of rear shocks, which are the 
third set of  Boge gas shocks, twice replaced under warranty, about 80k 
lifespan.  The front has Bilstiens with 120k miles on them and they are 
still good.




All in all about what you would expect from a car that sold for $53k in 
1988, and has been flogged daily, in  snowy, salty Maine  for 15 years. The 
parts are very available and aftermarket parts abound.

I would budget $200/month for repairs if you have a mechanic do the work, 
$100 or so if you do it.

This all said, mine is extremely high mileage, but the maintenance costs 
really have been fairly stable during the ten years I have been driving it, 
and I really like the car. That must be obvious to have put up with the 
maintenance.  Most people don't drive one car the distance to the moon.

Mine burns almost no oil, runs smoothly up to redline in all the gears, 
handles great in the snow, and has been paid for since I bought it as a 
salvage theft recovery in 1994.  (this makes the true mileage 
suspect..might be higher than indicated)
I need some more tires this spring, though the car is easy on the 
rubber  and stays aligned well. It handles well and goes very fast.  It 
still will do a burnout on dry pavement, and runs along happily at 100 mph 
if you so desire, on any kind of back road or highway.  The brakes are 
huge, and will toss you through the windshield, the heater and defroster, 
despite their issues are excellent when working.

At this point I keep it running almost as an experiment as to how many 
miles you can run a car.  It is in great shape, and I'm working on my 
bodywork/paint matching skills, as one of the door panels rusted out and 
needed a rust repair.  I shot it with Dupont Centari acrylic enamel, 
base/clear, and there is a little tape line.It was about 30 degrees in the 
garage, at night, so the match needs a little work.  When the weather warms 
I'm going to paint a few of the panels and the roof, and  repair the clear 
coat. Painting cars is surprisingly easy after all these years of home 
repairs..my results are getting pretty good, and body work for the cost of 
bondo, metal, paint ,glue, and sandpaper is super cheap. My front lower 
grillwork is held together with black Zip ties..My approach is more 
NASCAR/Lemans than Pebble Beach/Montery concourse, but my performance is 
still as good as the original book numbers, and the car is rattle and 
squeak free and as tight as it ever was, and capable of depositing great 
numbers of points on your drivers license in short order.

They will put a smile on your face when you beat up lesser mortal cars on 
the road.  The truly brave man was the guy in the grand Cherokee keeping up 
with me at 90-100 on Rte  in Eastern Maine one day.  This is a windy rural 
highway, and I finally wiped him off my tail with a "three oil truck" 
passing maneuver..... and I left one of those import dudes with the 
backwards ball caps and the "grapefruit shooter exhaust in the dust last 
week.  They don't drag race well, as they are slow to about 35mph, but 
after that they pull like a train!  You can also run Buick Grand Nationals 
up against their 125 mph speed limiter if you are so inclined.. it really 
messes with their minds!

The manual claims 137 but I haven't had it much over 120


I do all my own work, and I spent $2500-$3000 in parts over the last three 
years.

$4 k price sounds fair, It probably will need shocks and front end control 
arms right away if they are original. Likwise the steering tie rods and 
center link.



I love the car, and if you can do your own work, or have a pet mechanic, 
there is nothing like 'em.

I still get "must be nice" comments about running a big Bimmer, so I guess 
it still looks pretty straight!



I hope this helps.

Dave Leonard ,88 735i.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 12:24:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Dave Nichols <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 1990 735i opinions

- --0-667683635-1048105452=:94354
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


The engine is excellent and assuming it's had proper maintainence, it's just getting 
broken in.  Make sure the banjo bolts on the oil spray bar have been kept tight and 
the cam lobes on the number 1 and 6 cylinders are okay and it should be good to go for 
many more miles.

The transmission in this car is the 4hp22 and has had a history of giving fairly good 
service until one day it just gives up.  When it breaks the car won't move at all and 
the fix is to replace with a re-built.  The age and mileage are on the leading edge of 
where this tranny develops the problem.  If it's had good maintainence to this point 
it should be okay for a while, but don't be surprised if it just refuses to move one 
morning.

The radiator will need to be replaced if it hasn't already due to the infamous plastic 
tank disease but that's a fairly quick and easy fix.

Most of the problems you may encounter will be the usual run of the mill type for a 
car of this age and mileage.  Don't let this discourage you, the price seems to be 
right and these are well designed quality cars that are capable of 400,000 miles.

 

All the best  

 

- --0-667683635-1048105452=:94354
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<P>The engine is excellent and assuming it's had proper maintainence, it's just 
getting broken in.&nbsp; Make sure the banjo bolts on the oil spray bar have been kept 
tight and the cam lobes on the number 1 and 6 cylinders are okay and it should be good 
to go for many more miles.</P>
<P>The transmission in this car is the 4hp22 and has had a history of giving fairly 
good service until one day it just gives up.&nbsp; When it breaks the car won't move 
at all and the fix is to replace with a re-built.&nbsp; The age and mileage are on the 
leading edge of where this tranny develops the problem.&nbsp; If it's had good 
maintainence to this point it should be okay for a while, but don't be surprised if it 
just refuses to move one morning.</P>
<P>The radiator&nbsp;will need to be replaced if it hasn't already due to the infamous 
plastic tank disease but that's a fairly quick and easy fix.</P>
<P>Most of the problems you may encounter will be the usual run of the mill type for a 
car of this age and mileage.&nbsp; Don't let this discourage you, the price seems to 
be right and these are well designed quality cars that are capable of&nbsp;400,000 
miles.</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<P>All the best&nbsp; </P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
- --0-667683635-1048105452=:94354--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 08:53:36 -0000
From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions

John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

"2.  Can the radio be adapted for the duration of the trip to 9KHz
spacing for AM and to catch all the FM.  Why?  Because I love to dig on
the radio while driving in Europe, that's why."

I believe the radio starts out with 9 kHz spacing for AM and 0.1 MHz spacing
for FM, then is re-coded for life in the USA (10 kHz spacing on AM).  Last
time I listened to FM in the USA, which was probably around 1990, I recall
tuning only in odd 0.1 MHz steps (so, 93.5, 93.7 and so on).  Is this still
the case?

"3.  Any problems finding gas with the proper octane? Gee, my guide book
doesn't translate "91 octane".  If it just that simple, I can do that in
German and French."

The octane will often be marked, though remember the different scale used
(the Europeans only use RON, resulting in a higher figure).  You should have
no problems finding the right stuff.

"4.  How long will it take after I get home to wipe the s*&%-eatin' grin
off my face?"

Probably a good long time, if your traffic experiences are pleasant.  But
prepare to be overtaken by 1.1 litre tin boxes going flat out on the
autoroute during the running-in period - there's no downshifting and reeling
them in :).

Andy T

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:05:16 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions

They are no longer "re-coded for life" and are changeable by holding 
down the mode button for 20 seconds on power up.

Ed

Andrew Thomas wrote:

>I believe the radio starts out with 9 kHz spacing for AM and 0.1 MHz spacing
>for FM, then is re-coded for life in the USA (10 kHz spacing on AM).  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:09:32 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Where's my keyless entry connector?

Gruppe,

I've installed several BMW keyless remote entry and security units and have always 
found the green connection module inside the glove box that mates to my remote 
receiver. It's a 10 minute job. Now I have a '97 328iS and can't find anything that 
resembles a connector.

Where the heck do could this connector be? I've taken a couple of pix of what I saw 
with the glove boxes opened up w/ a connector included and one on the '97 that's void 
of a connector. If anyone knows what's up w/ this please contact me off line with a 
remedy. I'll be happy to send the pix that show the entire gutted out box w/ the 
wiring connections.....minus the one for the keyless entry on the '97.

TIA

Evan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 18:56:39 -0500
From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28>  535i tuned up and not hesitating anymore.. 

Well,

Back from the wrench.. I got the valves adjusted, plugs changed, and oil
changed.  That is what I was expecting when I got there to pick the car up,
and then was told that I needed a new cap and rotor.  I was shown my old
one, and it was pooched.  Totally corroded contacts, and the rotor was
screwed as well.  I thought,, OK, no big deal.. then I was told the price
for the damn thing.. $200.00 and that is aftermarket (in CDN dollars).  I
wasnt expecting that!! Holy ^%&*$#.. Well the car runs a lot better, and I
assume the gas mileage will be a lot better as well.  Is this the standard
price for one of these? Why so much?

Anyway,  now the car runs better, but my pocket is light, and I have to go
back and pay my friend more money, since I didnt have enough to clear the
bill on the spot..   He was nice enough to take the car home though..

Oh, and I also found out I need a new Catalytic Converter.... I love BMW;s
but sometimes I wish the parts were on par with American Cars.. Especially
today..

Cheers'
Ron J
85 535i
73 911s 2.7

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6229
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