[uucdigest] Tuesday, March 18 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6227
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] 95 M3 Rack and Pinion replacement Re:Re: [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE? Re: [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE? [uuc] Shipping an Engine Re: [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size Re: [uuc] 95 M3 Rack and Pinion replacement [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions [uuc] E30 stroker crank options [uuc] E30 stroker crank options Re: [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size [uuc] <E36> No Start - Fault code 1261 Fuel Pump Control - need help! Re: [uuc] E30 stroker crank options Re: [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 16:14:26 -0600 From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] 95 M3 Rack and Pinion replacement A local shop is telling a friend of mine in Silver Springs Maryland that his steering rack is leaking and that it will cost him $800 to fix it. Is this common on the 95 M3? Is there any kind of aftermarket seal or replacement boot kit to cure the problem rather than replace the entire unit?? Is this something that is easily done by an amateur wrencher (my friend) or is it best done by a competent shop?? Any suggestions for a good shop in the Silver springs Maryland Area?? Thanks in advance, Brian ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 14:58:39 -0800 From: John Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re:Re: [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE? > I have shipped several. The normal cost is between $90.00 and $130.00. > There are many carriers, ABF and American Freightways are two that I have > used. Depending on where you are in the country, you can check your > yellow pages for freight carriers. I've had good luck with www.freightquote.com - assuming they're still around, haven't shipped anything bigger 'n UPS-size in a year or so. John. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:59:34 -0500 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] SHIPPING AN ENGINE? No matter what trucking company you use, make sure you INSURE the freight, otherwise the standard insurance is something like $1.00 a pound. IE, 300 pound engine destroyed, you get $300. - -Tom >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/18/03 05:08PM >>> I have shipped several. The normal cost is between $90.00 and $130.00. There are many carriers, ABF and American Freightways are two that I have used. Depending on where you are in the country, you can check your yellow pages for freight carriers. Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 16:12:29 -0500 From: "BMWBITS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Shipping an Engine Depending on your location and destination ,AMTRAK may be your cheapest .BUT all fluids (oil ) must be drained , engine shrink wrapped and tied down on a pallet . You drive to local freight yard , recipient does likewise at his/her end AMTRAK lifts it with forklift out of pickup bed . Bill & Shirley Proud, Tennessee..winters, Seattle..summers Long commute in between . ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:14:52 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size Impact sockets strike the hex of the nut by the points rather than by pressing against the flats of the hex like the Snap_on and some Craftsman, and Facom sockets do. They also have bigger openings (less tight to the nut) which exacerbates teh rounding of the hex on the oil filler cap. Ed KMS - Brett Anderson wrote: >What difference does the colour of the socket make to it's job? > >Mine are both the same, 6pt, 1/2" drive impact sockets. > > >----------------------------------------------------- >BMW Special Tool Rentals >Pay per incident tech support >----------------------------------------------------- >Brett Anderson >KMS >(440) 338 1650 >www.koalamotorsport.com > >OSS committee member > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >>The only one my Snap-On man could find was a dull grey impact socket. >>What number is on yours? >> >> > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:24:34 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] 95 M3 Rack and Pinion replacement In a message dated 3/18/03 5:14:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: A local shop is telling a friend of mine in Silver Springs Maryland that his steering rack is leaking and that it will cost him $800 to fix it. Is this common on the 95 M3? Is there any kind of aftermarket seal or replacement boot kit to cure the problem rather than replace the entire unit?? //////////////////////////////// Yes it's quite common. What I don't think is common is that the rack itself is causing the leak. It's typically the longer hose from the steering fluid resevoir that connects to the rack. I think the bushing or washer must just wear out over time and gives the appearance of a leaky rack. >From what I recall the hose is less than $100 and yes it's something a weekend warrior can accomplish. BTDT. I'm sure others will pipe up about this and give more technical detail about this repair/issue. Good luck, Ken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 20:17:27 -0600 From: "John Barbian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions Hello Group, Well, so much for great timing. We leave Sunday for Munich and will pick up the new 325 coupe on Wednesday. As we get ready and print maps from Michelin, load up on beer guides and watch the Euro exchange rate, I have just a couple of quick questions? 1. Is the free breakfast at the delivery center worth it? Very generous gesture, but your reviews are welcome. I have come to expect not so much from European breakfasts and have no problem with that, but am curious as to how it compares. 2. Can the radio be adapted for the duration of the trip to 9KHz spacing for AM and to catch all the FM. Why? Because I love to dig on the radio while driving in Europe, that's why. 3. Any problems finding gas with the proper octane? Gee, my guide book doesn't translate "91 octane". If it just that simple, I can do that in German and French. 4. How long will it take after I get home to wipe the s*&%-eatin' grin off my face? As always, thanks to all. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:46:09 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Euro Delivery, Almost Time, Last minute questions John Barbian at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > 1. Is the free breakfast at the delivery center worth it? Very > generous gesture, but your reviews are welcome. I have come to expect > not so much from European breakfasts and have no problem with that, but > am curious as to how it compares. Really? Euro breakfasts are definitely different that what we get here in the US of A, but my mouth starts watering at the thought of all those fresh baguettes, croissants, sweet butter, little personal pots of AMAZING coffee, etc etc etc. *drool* - - Mark - -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:47:53 -0800 (PST) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 stroker crank options Brad: I mean it in the best possible way when I say that it is amusing to read what you are contemplating then read that you're doing it because it is simple! Neil Deshpande *** Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The M50 is a whole 'nother argument and a whole new can o' worms. Whereas the M20 just needs to be modified and popped back in its place, the M50 needs all kinds of custom work and wiring to make it work. Someone like me would NOT benefit from doing an M50 swap himself. I would be much better off finding a good M20B25 block and having someone like Pete McHenry rebuild it to my specs and then swapping that one for my current M20. Yes the M50 would have more potential and is only slightly heavier than the M20 and yes there are a lot of guys that have done it that can help and yes there is a $50+ CD that you can buy that explains it, but it's so much easier to just do the M20 rebuild and be done with it. Brad Couvillon '87 528e www.fatdaddybmw.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 18:49:32 -0800 (PST) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 stroker crank options Gary: What is the jackshaft? Neil Deshpande *** "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The M50 has better cooling, better breathing, loses that silly jackshaft and is thoroughly modern just to name a few things. That is enough for me but I'm not like everyone. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 21:51:28 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size I disagree. Every Snap On impact socket I have has a rounded cutout at each corner, forcing the socket to impact the flats of the fastener. Regardless, the oil filter cap should only be at 20Nm or so, hardly a lot of effort excerted on the head. - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Impact sockets strike the hex of the nut by the points rather than by > pressing against the flats of the hex like the Snap_on and some > Craftsman, and Facom sockets do. > They also have bigger openings (less tight to the nut) which exacerbates > teh rounding of the hex on the oil filler cap. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 22:02:40 -0500 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E36> No Start - Fault code 1261 Fuel Pump Control - need help! All, Here's the situation: my 94 325ic has been sitting because I needed to replace the radiator due to the infamous broken radiator neck and then I was traveling for a few weeks. The car was running fine prior to parking it in my garage to do the work. After replacing the radiator it cranked but wouldn't start. I was almost convinced that the stomp test didn't work on my car but I finally managed to get it right and it came back with fault code 1261 which Bentley tells me is Fuel Pump Control. Bentley also says that the corrective action is to test the fuel pump relay and fuel pump circuit. Per Bentley, I removed the fuel pump relay and placed a jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87. Fuel pump runs, and I can hear fuel running in the fuel rail. So far so good. Next the fuel pump relay. Step 1, remove fuel pump relay - It's already out of the socket from the fuel pump circuit test. Step 2, check for battery voltage at terminal 30. Successful. Step 3, with ignition key in start position check for battery voltage at terminal 86. Successful. Step 4 is where I have a problem. Bentley says "With ignition key, use digital multimeter to check for ground at terminal 85." It doesn't say what position the key should be in. Any help? Bentley also doesn't tell me what to conclude from this test. Assuming step 4 is successful I assume this means my fuel pump relay is bad? Other questions: should the car start with the relay out and the jumper wire in, or does the DME need the relay triggering circuit to be complete? Do fuel pump relays just fail spontaneously? Is it possible that I did something in the course of replacing the radiator to cause the relay to fail (if that is indeed my problem) or is it coincidental? Are relays something the dealer should stock and what should I expect to pay for one? (I've never had arelay fail in any vehicle I've owned. Sorry for the length, any suggestions and advice will be much appreciated thanks, Brian Daley 94 325ic (gotta get it running again now that the weather's turning nice enough to go topless!) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:27:11 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 stroker crank options Its the extra shaft that drives the oil pump through a set of right angle gears. It used to also drive the distributor before it was moved to the end of the cam when Motronic engine controls were added. Gary Derian > Gary: > > What is the jackshaft? > > Neil Deshpande > > *** > > "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > The M50 has better cooling, better breathing, loses > that silly jackshaft and is thoroughly modern just to > name a few things. That is enough for me but I'm not > like everyone. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:54:29 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Late model E36 Oil Change Wrench Size Regarding the torque -- "SHOULD only be at 20 Nm" is right. The cap on my 95 VW had been slightly over-tightened under the previous owner and was seized in place. My first attempt at removing it (before realizing how bad it was) was with the channel-locks. That wasn't working -- I heard the plastic crack at the corner of the wrench flats. Then I ran out for tools (on a sunday in an unfamiliar neighborhood) and only came up with the 12" (1-1/2" opening) adjustable end wrench. Tried that -- now grabbing two flats "nicely" -- more cracking of the plastic. During the next week I bought a chrome, non-impact, 6 point, 36 mm axle nut socket. Following saturday I gave that a shot -- again with the cracking. It took something just shy of an act of god to break it loose. Ingredients for "Something Just Shy" included an alignment bay, some sort of clamping import filter removal tool, a large hose clamp, my 1/2"-drive breaker bar, a rubber block, one of those tall jacks you use to hold up part of an exhaust or transmission, a cheater pipe, and two men. As soon as we freed it, it turned smooth and easy. So anyway, don't over-tighten it. Someone will be sorry, and it could be you. - - N. Jay > I disagree. Every Snap On impact socket I have has a rounded cutout at each > corner, forcing the socket to impact the flats of the fastener. > > Regardless, the oil filter cap should only be at 20Nm or so, hardly a lot of > effort excerted on the head. > > ----------------------------------------------------- > BMW Special Tool Rentals > Pay per incident tech support > ----------------------------------------------------- > Brett Anderson > KMS > (440) 338 1650 > www.koalamotorsport.com > > OSS committee member > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Impact sockets strike the hex of the nut by the points rather than by > > pressing against the flats of the hex like the Snap_on and some > > Craftsman, and Facom sockets do. > > They also have bigger openings (less tight to the nut) which exacerbates > > teh rounding of the hex on the oil filler cap. > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6227 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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