[uucdigest] Monday, March 24 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6241
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips [uuc] Parts Database on the ETK [uuc] <E30> thermostat & coolant hoses Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions RE: [uuc] Re: E-36: replacing front control arms [uuc] Cool link [uuc] E30 M20 Engine Oil Temperature [uuc] FOR SALE: NAVIGATION CD'S [uuc] <E36M3>Vent Fan Not Running [uuc] Keyless entry connector hunt Re: [uuc] Keyless entry connector hunt ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:24:24 -0800 From: Steven Tom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips Nice seat of the pants write up. I just have to say that it still is seat of the pants. Dyno numbers would really help the situation and making it a little more believable. For peace of mind, pay 70 bucks for the dyno and swap ECU's between runs. Seems simple enough as well as gives hard numbers. On a side note, there were some manufacturers that would make the bottom end weak to make the standard top end feel strong. steve At 10:12 PM 3/23/2003 -0800, you wrote: >So, here's the breakdown: > >At lower RPMs (below 3,000): Mark D, then Jim C, then >Dinan >At mid-range (3k - 4k): Mark D, then Jim C, then >Dinan >At high RPMs: No surprise when I say Mark D, Jim C, >Dinan! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:38:50 -0800 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Parts Database on the ETK Parts Database file on the ETK: Is there a way to extract the parts database file, that 500 meg large creature, from the ETK database without reinstalling the whole package? My system blue screened while in ETK and the database file got corrupted. Due to existing registry entries from the initial ETK install, the installer fails when I try to reinstall the whole package. Uninstalling does not fully remove the existing registry entries so that I can get a clean fresh install from scratch. Nor have I succeeded in Regediting all the existing ETK entries out. I've tried installing to different directory names yet get the same hang while the DB file is extracting. I only need the database file. Is there an extracting .exe on the ETK disk which the SETUP.exe uses that will extract the DB file without needing to run the whole SETUP.exe? Thanks in advance, and yes I know, if I was using Unix, this problem never would have happened. :-) 'jk ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:49:10 -0800 From: "Grant Low" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> thermostat & coolant hoses Hey everyone, The thermostat on my (now brother's) 1987 325(e) is still stuck half-open. The temp was fine throughout the winter, but now that it is warming up in Indiana, it's going to need to be fixed. I think I found the right part number for it from BavAuto: 11 531466180 Thermostat - 80 Degree Celsius $17.95 I'd also like to see all the coolant hoses replaced. The current ones look old and brittle, and are likely original, with 191k+ miles. Do you have a parts list for this kind of thing, or can you send me a screenshot of the ETK? My dad and brother will be working on the car, so this info is for them. I have recently moved to California, or I'd be tearing it apart myself. Thanks, Grant ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 15:28:42 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips "Brad Couvillon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > As many of you may know, Mark D'Sylva is going to > develop a chip that will optimize a 325i cam for the > eta engine. I'm going to be doing the testing on it > and will do the before and after dyno runs, too. I'm > paying for everything myself (dyno runs, chip, > maintenance items, etc) and am getting NO benefits > from Mark for helping or for "advertising" for him. > > I've been driving with the Mark D'Sylva chip on my > 528e lately, Hey Brad, <valid comparison conditions> Is the Mark's chip you are comparing others against the one he custom burned for your engine? Did JimC and Dinan custom burn chips for your car (makes a world of difference)? Do other have 'i'-cam Eta chips? Any objective back to back post-adaptation dyno runs? </valid comparison conditions> Let the best chip win.... the more chip tuners the better... yada yada yada... YMMV, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 17:09:13 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions I think I can lend some first-hand experience to this discussion... Project X is currently running: 1) front 740i Sport swaybar, rear BMW OE Saudi-market super-huge bar (misplaced size spec right now). 2) 35mm/25mm custom springs 3) front 245/40-19, rear 275/35-19 (factory size from the E65) Pirelli PZero Rosso Ran the car at VIR a few months ago, handling was very neutral. The 19" size is a very good match for the E38 considering there is still generous sidewall. Although turn-in on the street is excellent, and the feel at the track was very good, the fronts did look like they had been working harder than the rears. If I were buying tires again tomorrow, I would go with a 255 front. Remember that the factory fitment on '99+ Sport package cars was 18x8 front, 18x9.5 rear, and I believe 245s in the front with 255s in the rear. Obviously somebody at BMW thought that slightly larger rears were good, if for nothing other than appearance. With the larger BMWs, I have found that going Plus1 or Plus 2 on the wheel size is always a great improvement in turn-in response with no downside in ride quality. The 16" fitment on the E38 was never really a great idea except for limousine-service cars. Too much sidewall, barely enough width - the equivalent of putting a 185/70-14 on an E36. At the very least, I would suggest you go with a mixture of the advice given so far - perhaps use a 245/50-17 all around, or perhaps the mild staggered setup from the 740 Sport. - - Rob '98 750iL/6 http://www.robertlevinson.com/seven/ > >Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:51:35 -0500 > >From: Craig Cotton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions > > > >I have a 95 e38 740i with the stock 16" wheels that came with the car. > >I want to upgrade the wheels as they are showing their age. > >My question is whether to go with the same size all around or to go with a > >staggered set? > >Any suggestions or comments on drivability would be appreciated? > >Thanks > >Craig Cotton > >95 740i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 14:18:03 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Re: E-36: replacing front control arms If memory serves you can do one side with a socket, but just barely, the other side is impossible with a socket. Of course I did it on my E36 that had all the ac lines removed so it may be impossible on both sides with a socket if you have a/c. It was a PITA turning the wrench 1/8 of a turn each swing.... Marco - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of david kroth Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 1:23 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: E-36: replacing front control arms > The center ball joint. Looks like you can't get in > there will an impact > socket. Do you have to use a wrench to remove this? > Again, will a pickle > fork be ok to separate this joint also? You can do it with a wrench. I recommend a short pattern wrench so you can get more swing. I've seen E30 cars done from the top with about 24" of socket extension, but I don't think that will work on the E36. When you get the nut off, use the pickle fork. Don't be afraid to hit it. ===== David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! http://platinum.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 16:24:54 -0800 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Cool link The following is a cool link to a site with animations of various engines in operation. I thought some of you may be interested http://www.keveney.com/Engines.html Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:27:39 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E30 M20 Engine Oil Temperature I want to install an oil temperature gauge in my project car. It has the standard 325i engine with an external oil cooler. Where is the best location to sense the oil temperature of oil before it goes to the cooler? I was thinking of drilling and tapping the hollow through bolt that goes into the block and holds the oil filter head/oil cooler connection block unit to the engine. Is this an acceptable location? What is that spring loaded valve in the head for? Is is just a high pressure bypass, or is is sensing oil temperature and only passing oil to the cooler when it reaches a certain temperature? Thanks, Ed ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 19:16:33 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FOR SALE: NAVIGATION CD'S I have the following navigation CD's if anyone is interested: California & Nevada CD South Central CD Atlantic/New England CD $20 each should cover the CD+shipping. I also have other parts which may be of interest: http://www.inlacal.com/partspics/ Chris 89 M3 01 X5 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:18:04 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E36M3>Vent Fan Not Running Auto ventilation display shows normal fan speed (about 3 or 4 dots), but the fan is not running. Ran speed up and down- dots increase/decrease, but no fan, no air. Started Max Defrost- fan speed showed max as it should, but no fan still. Checked fuses- all OK. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions, before I take the car to the dealer to check it out? Thanks, Jay Kenty '97 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:26:22 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Keyless entry connector hunt Malcolm, I think your on the right track based on my trip to the dealer today and looking at the "OEM" keyless entry wiring in the box. There is indeed a separate cable w/ the female black 11 pin connector, a few extra wires (hood, trunk), w/ the corresponding green connector on the other end of this cable that looks like it would mate up w/ the green connector. Now it looks like options are to buy the BMW unit for $400+ that includes the cable, or find this same cable that's useable, or go to "We be alarms, radios, computers, etc." and let them put in a $100 keyless entry kit. Any other suggestions? I have two of these keyless remote entry units and it looks like neither will fit my current '97 E36 328iS. They are for sale if I can't use them. BMW Model part #s are: 82 11 1 496 445 82 11 1 467 756 One came from a '96 318iS and is the 467 756 unit The other came from a '98 M3 and is the 796 445 unit TIA Evan Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:24:22 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Keyless entry connection? I think what you are missing is the alarm wiring harness. There is a black connector behind the glove box. The wiring harness has a black connector, which plugs into the car's connector, and the green connector you are apparently looking for, which plugs in to the alarm box itself. The wiring harness also has a connector for the hood switch and another connector that doesn't seem to be used. The wiring harness comes with the factory alarm kit, but if you need to purchase it separately, it is part number 82 1 11 469 446. Cost is about $90. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i - BTDT with the alarm - - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 4:39 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; E36M3 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Keyless entry connection? Brett/Gruppe I literally took apart all of the wiring and harness connectors in the space behind the glove box to gain access to the very back part of the area closest to the fire wall. Still no green or black BMW OEM prewired harness to connect my BMW keyless remote entry module. I literally pulled the wiring harness for the windows, locks, and virtually every thing in my way to gain access, and still no remote harness connector to be found. This is the first BMW that says it's prewired and not have any evidence that it ever had one. Was that an option on a '97 328iS? I've always found them easily in the previous installations of OEM BMW keyless remote entry units. Is there any possibility that MY car doesn't have a prewired connector as stated? Should I take it to the dealer w/ the glove box out and let them try to find it? I'm over trying to find it. TIA Evan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:52:37 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Keyless entry connector hunt Evan, I believe there are errors in your numbers. The system you want would be the exact system from the '98 M3, and the number will end in 469 444 for the system, 469 445 for the control unit. It will have the ergo shaped two button remote. What you didn't get was the short harness from the car - green to the unit to the black connector near the air distribution box. You can buy that harness separately. Both of your proposed donor cars should be the exact same unit, regardless of whether they were dealer or port installed. The only other possibility is that your car birthdays are off, in which case, look at the remotes. The earlier unit is the rectangular three button unit and won't work on your later car without a bunch of work. Sell that one. Get the harness from the M3 donor or a salvage yard (late '95 or later E36), or new from the dealer. Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Malcolm, > >I think your on the right track based on my trip to the dealer today and looking at >the "OEM" keyless entry wiring in the box. There is indeed a separate cable w/ the >female black 11 pin connector, a few extra wires (hood, trunk), w/ the corresponding >green connector on the other end of this cable that looks like it would mate up w/ >the green connector. > >Now it looks like options are to buy the BMW unit for $400+ that includes the cable, >or find this same cable that's useable, or go to "We be alarms, radios, computers, >etc." and let them put in a $100 keyless entry kit. > >Any other suggestions? I have two of these keyless remote entry units and it looks >like neither will fit my current '97 E36 328iS. They are for sale if I can't use >them. BMW Model part #s are: > >82 11 1 496 445 > >82 11 1 467 756 > >One came from a '96 318iS and is the 467 756 unit > >The other came from a '98 M3 and is the 796 445 unit > >TIA > >Evan > > >Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:24:22 -0600 >From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: RE: [uuc] Keyless entry connection? > >I think what you are missing is the alarm wiring harness. There is a >black connector behind the glove box. The wiring harness has a black >connector, which plugs into the car's connector, and the green connector >you are apparently looking for, which plugs in to the alarm box itself. >The wiring harness also has a connector for the hood switch and another >connector that doesn't seem to be used. > >The wiring harness comes with the factory alarm kit, but if you need to >purchase it separately, it is part number 82 1 11 469 446. Cost is about >$90. > >Malcolm >'88 M5 >'98 328i - BTDT with the alarm >- -----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 4:39 PM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; E36M3 >Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] Keyless entry connection? > >Brett/Gruppe > >I literally took apart all of the wiring and harness connectors in the >space behind the glove box to gain access to the very back part of the >area closest to the fire wall. Still no green or black BMW OEM prewired >harness to connect my BMW keyless remote entry module. I literally >pulled the wiring harness for the windows, locks, and virtually every >thing in my way to gain access, and still no remote harness connector to >be found. This is the first BMW that says it's prewired and not have any >evidence that it ever had one. Was that an option on a '97 328iS? I've >always found them easily in the previous installations of OEM BMW >keyless remote entry units. Is there any possibility that MY car doesn't >have a prewired connector as stated? Should I take it to the dealer w/ >the glove box out and let them try to find it? I'm over trying to find >it. > >TIA > >Evan > > > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6241 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
