[uucdigest] Tuesday, March 25 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6242
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Re: <E36M3>Vent Fan Not Running [uuc] '87 325is control arms Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions RE: [uuc] <E28> 535i tuned up and not hesitating anymore.. RE: [uuc] Keyless entry connector hunt Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions [uuc] Re: rough road = big sway bar ? Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips [uuc] Re: E30 M20 Engine Oil Temperature ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:17:06 -0500 From: "Matt Tremmel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E36M3>Vent Fan Not Running Had a friend with a similar problem just last week. Try pulling the A/C relay and checking for corrosion. Clean off the contacts and re-insert and try again... The shop she took it to said it would happen again in a few months, so order a new relay (if it is the problem) Matt 1994 325is Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:18:04 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E36M3>Vent Fan Not Running Auto ventilation display shows normal fan speed (about 3 or 4 dots), but the fan is not running. Ran speed up and down- dots increase/decrease, but no fan, no air. Started Max Defrost- fan speed showed max as it should, but no fan still. Checked fuses- all OK. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions, before I take the car to the dealer to check it out? Thanks, Jay Kenty '97 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:23:02 -0600 From: Neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] '87 325is control arms Drew, I bought the control arms for my <former> '87 325is from Steve D' @ Ultimate Garage (http://www.ultimategarage.com/suspB.htm). I got them a few days after I ordered (as is typical). I can't say enough about the customer service Steve provides. No affiliation, just a happy repeat customer. Neil <snip> I need control arms for an '87 325is. Can people recommend parts sources they use? (shipping is usually much less than the bay area dealer mark up) If you have these parts -new- feel free to send me an email directly to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and include an estimate of ground/3 day shipping. I would like to have them by the end of the week. Also I heard that while I am doing this I should use delrin offset bushings. Anyone have sources or thoughts on this? Thanks, Drew </snip> ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 08:20:34 -0000 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions Rob Levinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: "1) front 740i Sport swaybar, rear BMW OE Saudi-market super-huge bar (misplaced size spec right now)" This is one reason I value the digest so much - you get to find out about all these upgrades available right there in BMW's parts inventory. Anyone know why the Saudis need such a big rear anti-roll bar? Must be all that drifting they go in for. "With the larger BMWs, I have found that going Plus1 or Plus 2 on the wheel size is always a great improvement in turn-in response with no downside in ride quality." This is one area where even the E38 is superior to the S-Class. The S-Class rides beautifully on its standard 16" alloys, but the ride quality deteriorates on anything bigger, with little benefit to handling. Some hacks have suggested that the S-Class's handling actually gets worse as the tyre size - and available grip - increases. Both previous and current 7s are capable of improved handling and roadholding on bigger wheels, while retaining good ride comfort. Andy T ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 07:20:54 -0500 From: Karl Zemlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E28> 535i tuned up and not hesitating anymore.. Parts _are_ more expensive, but they last a lot longer. I can get a cap and rotor mail order for $70 US. - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron J Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 6:57 PM To: M535i SIG; BMW; E28 Group; UUC-BMW Subject: [uuc] <E28> 535i tuned up and not hesitating anymore.. Well, Back from the wrench.. I got the valves adjusted, plugs changed, and oil changed. That is what I was expecting when I got there to pick the car up, and then was told that I needed a new cap and rotor. I was shown my old one, and it was pooched. Totally corroded contacts, and the rotor was screwed as well. I thought,, OK, no big deal.. then I was told the price for the damn thing.. $200.00 and that is aftermarket (in CDN dollars). I wasnt expecting that!! Holy ^%&*$#.. Well the car runs a lot better, and I assume the gas mileage will be a lot better as well. Is this the standard price for one of these? Why so much? Anyway, now the car runs better, but my pocket is light, and I have to go back and pay my friend more money, since I didnt have enough to clear the bill on the spot.. He was nice enough to take the car home though.. Oh, and I also found out I need a new Catalytic Converter.... I love BMW;s but sometimes I wish the parts were on par with American Cars.. Especially today.. Cheers' Ron J 85 535i 73 911s 2.7 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 08:24:25 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Keyless entry connector hunt Evan, I'd just buy the harness cable and use the factory alarm/keyless system you have. That gives you an integrated system with no wire cutting/splicing/etc. If your local dealer wants too much for it, Pacific BMW or Circle BMW should have it for around the $90 I mentioned. Both of your units should be the same. I'm not sure why you have different part numbers. The late model E36s (96+) all use the same alarm. It should have the rounded 2-button remote, not the rectangular 3-button of earlier models. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 9:26 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; E36M3 Subject: [uuc] Keyless entry connector hunt Malcolm, I think your on the right track based on my trip to the dealer today and looking at the "OEM" keyless entry wiring in the box. There is indeed a separate cable w/ the female black 11 pin connector, a few extra wires (hood, trunk), w/ the corresponding green connector on the other end of this cable that looks like it would mate up w/ the green connector. Now it looks like options are to buy the BMW unit for $400+ that includes the cable, or find this same cable that's useable, or go to "We be alarms, radios, computers, etc." and let them put in a $100 keyless entry kit. Any other suggestions? I have two of these keyless remote entry units and it looks like neither will fit my current '97 E36 328iS. They are for sale if I can't use them. BMW Model part #s are: 82 11 1 496 445 82 11 1 467 756 One came from a '96 318iS and is the 467 756 unit The other came from a '98 M3 and is the 796 445 unit TIA Evan Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 20:24:22 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Keyless entry connection? I think what you are missing is the alarm wiring harness. There is a black connector behind the glove box. The wiring harness has a black connector, which plugs into the car's connector, and the green connector you are apparently looking for, which plugs in to the alarm box itself. The wiring harness also has a connector for the hood switch and another connector that doesn't seem to be used. The wiring harness comes with the factory alarm kit, but if you need to purchase it separately, it is part number 82 1 11 469 446. Cost is about $90. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i - BTDT with the alarm - - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 4:39 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; E36M3 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Keyless entry connection? Brett/Gruppe I literally took apart all of the wiring and harness connectors in the space behind the glove box to gain access to the very back part of the area closest to the fire wall. Still no green or black BMW OEM prewired harness to connect my BMW keyless remote entry module. I literally pulled the wiring harness for the windows, locks, and virtually every thing in my way to gain access, and still no remote harness connector to be found. This is the first BMW that says it's prewired and not have any evidence that it ever had one. Was that an option on a '97 328iS? I've always found them easily in the previous installations of OEM BMW keyless remote entry units. Is there any possibility that MY car doesn't have a prewired connector as stated? Should I take it to the dealer w/ the glove box out and let them try to find it? I'm over trying to find it. TIA Evan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:11:42 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions - ---- Original Message ---- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions >Rob Levinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > >"1) front 740i Sport swaybar, rear BMW OE Saudi-market super-huge bar >(misplaced size spec right now)" > >This is one reason I value the digest so much - you get to find out >about all these upgrades available right there in BMW's parts >inventory. Anyone >know why the Saudis need such a big rear anti-roll bar? Must be all >that drifting they go in for. BMW lists it as a "rough road package". Yeah, rough roads... that's why I need a supercharger. Suuuure... - - Rob ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:38:56 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: rough road = big sway bar ? Rob Levinson wrote: > >"1) front 740i Sport swaybar, rear BMW OE Saudi-market super-huge bar > >(misplaced size spec right now)" > > >Anyone know why the Saudis need such a big rear anti-roll bar? > > BMW lists it as a "rough road package". to me that doesn't make a lot of sense. wouldn't a rough road tend to mean you'd want the sway bar to be _less_ stiff, allowing the suspention to be more independent side-to-side to handle the bumps ? I know that my E30 wasn't nearly as nasty over some of the big potholes on my commute when it didn't have a front sway bar. obviously it wasn't good for handling balance, but it calmed down the ride a bit. obviously the tuning of the shocks & springs factors into this as well, so I may be way off base, esp as the E38 is a rather different beast than an E30... I'd think the Saudi's would have tons of nice flat, smooth roads. they don't have any weather to speak of, so the pavement should stay in good shape... Ben current commute relatively smooth ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 08:59:47 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips Or short of paying for dyno time, do some acceleration testing. That's what I did before and after switching to the Conforti chip in my 325i. I avoided standing starts, mainly because 1) they're hard on the car, and B) I'm not very good at them. One test was rolling in 1st gear at 5 MPH and then accelerating through the gears to 60 MPH. The other was a rolling start at 2000 RPM in 2nd gear and then accelerating to 6000, still in 2nd gear. I had someone else operate the stopwatch, so I could just drive. Other tests would be fine, just be consistent. Try to use the same stretch of road in the same direction at the same time of day at about the same temperature for each test to minimize environmental variables. Do multiple runs, throw out the fastest and slowest, average the rest if you have that many. Make sure to allow enough driving time after chip installation to allow for adaption. It doesn't take long, but don't change the chip and then rush out to your secret test road. Back before Jim C became a household name, I had it on good authority (Steve Dinan) that the main difference between the Autothority and early Dinan chips was in part-throttle mapping. He felt that both were pretty much the same at WOT. I don't know where the Conforti or D'Sylva programming falls relative to the others. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i P.S. Does anyone else find Brad's e-mail address ironic? He's neither fat nor, AFAIK, a daddy. >Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:24:24 -0800 >From: Steven Tom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips > >Nice seat of the pants write up. I just have to say that it still is seat >of the pants. Dyno numbers would really help the situation and making it a >little more believable. For peace of mind, pay 70 bucks for the dyno and >swap ECU's between runs. Seems simple enough as well as gives hard numbers. > >On a side note, there were some manufacturers that would make the bottom >end weak to make the standard top end feel strong. > >steve > >At 10:12 PM 3/23/2003 -0800, you wrote: > >>So, here's the breakdown: >> >>At lower RPMs (below 3,000): Mark D, then Jim C, then >>Dinan >>At mid-range (3k - 4k): Mark D, then Jim C, then >>Dinan >>At high RPMs: No surprise when I say Mark D, Jim C, >>Dinan! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 09:08:48 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 M20 Engine Oil Temperature Hi Ed, answers interspersed below: >Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:27:39 -0500 >From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] E30 M20 Engine Oil Temperature > >I want to install an oil temperature gauge in my project car. It has the >standard 325i engine with an external oil cooler. Where is the best >location to sense the oil temperature of oil before it goes to the cooler? > >I was thinking of drilling and tapping the hollow through bolt that goes >into the block and holds the oil filter head/oil cooler connection block >unit to the engine. Is this an acceptable location? I had that done, and it has not leaked. Buy an extra hollow bolt, in case you screw up the one you have. >What is that spring loaded valve in the head for? Is is just a high >pressure bypass, or is is sensing oil temperature and only passing oil >to the cooler when it reaches a certain temperature? Don't know for sure, but I thought it was just a bypass if the filter becomes clogged? >Thanks, > >Ed Good luck, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6242 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
