[uucdigest] Thursday, June 19 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6481
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] RE: Feeler guage Re: [uuc] Idle speed problems [uuc] installing gauges in an E30 Re: [uuc] installing gauges in an E30 Re: [uuc] installing gauges in an E30 [uuc] air filter advice needed [uuc] Re: using MS Outlook 2000? [uuc] Fault Code Scan/Reset Tool Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 17:32:02 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Feeler guage Anyone know a good source for quality feeler guages? I'm thinking mine have seen better days after use with spark plugs and I don't recall where I got them. I'd like to do a valve adjust on on M30 motor this weekend (12 thousanths). - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:40:15 -0400 From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Idle speed problems Sounds like the Idle Control Valve. If I remember right, I think a new one is $100-200? Or maybe you can clean & reinstall the existing one? Believe it's easy to R&R. Been a while since I sold my '86 325e to it's third owner, w/ 176K on it at the time. HTH. Dave Meyer 99 328is Stafford VA At 08:50 PM 6/17/03 -0700, you wrote: >My 85 325e has developed a problem. The engine runs great except: >1. It has developed an idle 'surge'. The engine revs up-drops off in >repeated cycles when at idle, mostly after some highway driving. If it >is surging at higher rpm it is very slight and I don't notice it. >2. Low engine speed is hard to control - i.e. in 1st gear, trying to >manage car and engine speed to negotiate into or out of a situation or >just 'idling' through a parking lot, at some point the rpm drops off a >cliff or, in the other direction jumps up the cliff. The engine speed is >very difficult to control. >-Gary ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:11:36 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] installing gauges in an E30 I am looking to install some gauges in my '87 325i so that I don't have a repeat of the repairs I just did (cam and rockers replaced secondary to a failing oil pump). I am looking at putting an oil pressure and temperature gauge in the space presently occupied by the ashtray. I think they can be made to fit there, but it is going to be tight. I am planning on making an adapter block to allow me to retain the stock idiot light switch in addition to providing a place for the pressure sender. I am considering where to put the sender for the temperature gauge. I could do the sump, but that doesn't feel like a very good place to put the sender. Ideally I would like to get it in the oil returning to the engine after the oil cooler. I was thinking about tapping the hollow bolt that holds the filter/oil cooler adapter and installing it there. Does anyone know if that bolt is big enough to tap 1/8-27 NPT? Anyone know what the thread on the stock oil pressure switch is? M12x1.5? Anyone done this before? - -- Joe - -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:32:12 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] installing gauges in an E30 I have two of the bolts (they are $45 each with CCA discount!) and one M3 sending unit 12 X 1.125? If you find a machine shop to do the drilling and tapping, I'd like to tag along. Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >I am looking to install some gauges in my '87 325i so that I don't have a >repeat of the repairs I just did (cam and rockers replaced secondary to a >failing oil pump). I am looking at putting an oil pressure and temperature >gauge in the space presently occupied by the ashtray. I think they can be >made to fit there, but it is going to be tight. > >I am planning on making an adapter block to allow me to retain the stock >idiot light switch in addition to providing a place for the pressure sender. > >I am considering where to put the sender for the temperature gauge. I could >do the sump, but that doesn't feel like a very good place to put the sender. >Ideally I would like to get it in the oil returning to the engine after the >oil cooler. I was thinking about tapping the hollow bolt that holds the >filter/oil cooler adapter and installing it there. Does anyone know if that >bolt is big enough to tap 1/8-27 NPT? Anyone know what the thread on the >stock oil pressure switch is? M12x1.5? > >Anyone done this before? > >-- Joe > >-- >Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations >[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 23:10:41 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] installing gauges in an E30 >From Ed MacVaugh > >I have two of the bolts (they are $45 each with CCA discount!) and one >M3 sending unit 12 X 1.125? > >If you find a machine shop to do the drilling and tapping, I'd like to >tag along. > >Ed > $45 each!? Wow... they are proud of that part. I think I will be taking a good look in the salvage yard to see if they have a spare in there. I figure it is nice to have a spare in case I mess up. I was going to do the drilling and tapping myself. I have a small lathe and happen to have 1/8-27 NPT taps already. What is the diameter of that bolt (the shank, not the head)? Is that sender a temperature or pressure sender? - -- Joe - -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:20:59 -0700 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] air filter advice needed Can somebody tell me where to find the site that compares K & N air filters with stock ones. I know it's on the net but that is all I know. Thanks, Ben Dixon 1995 325i 1985 323i (for sale) 1972 '02 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 23:20:52 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: using MS Outlook 2000? Rob, I had the same problem at the office awhile back (we use Outlook)...I couldn't post to the digest. Only when our network was reconfigured could I post. It must have something to do with the way e-mail is setup. I will try to help when I get to the office. John Weese In a message dated 6/18/03 6:59:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << s anyone here using MS Outlook 2000 to post to the digest? If so, can you please email Brett Anderson ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) directly, to assist in getting him back on this digest. He's recently changed to Outlook from Outlook Express and has not been able to post since. No comments are necessary on the virtues of the various email softwares, let's just save the bandwidth. >> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 23:37:36 -0400 From: "Alan Brockman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Fault Code Scan/Reset Tool I am looking to buy a reasonably priced (preferably <$200) fault code scanner that I can use on my 1996 328i. I have access to a Peake scanner/reset tool for faults, but it does not cover ABS resetting. I need this capability because my ABS system has a fault, but I believe the problem is fixed. I would just like to have my own scan tool. Here's the million dollar question: What scan tool should I buy? I can't seem to find one that will do reading of all codes, plus resetting, and with ABS fault reading/resetting capability in the price range (<$200). Part 2 of the question: I've seen a lot of talk about the OBD II standard that all cars 1996 model year and newer sold in the US must comply with. I found the port for this under the dash. Should I get an OBD tool? They are reasonably priced, and have the added benefit of working on any vehicle 1996 and newer. However, I can't find indication that BMW has enhanced OBD fault codes. All domestic, most Asian manufacturers and many European companies appear to support enhanced OBD fault codes that go beyond the generic fault descriptions. I looked at a generic fault index, and it is very imprecise in definition of faults. It would be of great value to have manufacturer specific faults for my car. What other benefits would an OBD scanner have? Some even interface with a PC or PDA. Somebody out there must have a better handle on this problem than I. A little help here? Alan Brockman 96 328i ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 00:34:29 -0400 From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 7:26 PM Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 > The E23 calipers are not compatible with the E34. > hmm. now you tell me. :oP they have the same pistons as the M5/M6 so I was hoping that maybe they were just a cheaper version made by ATE. they are quite small. so that would definately have served my purpose in moving lots of the brake bias to the rear. oh well. they are on their way... less than $16 including shipping. maybe I'll find a place for them to sit and look pretty. > As posted previously, almost your entire menu of BMW factory-sourced options > is found right here: > > http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/brakes.htm > > (There's a rare E32 tiny 4-piston setup I left out of the list). > > How crazy do you want to go with the brakes? In about a week or two, UUC > will have the 355mm 4-piston front and 328mm 4-piston rear available for the > E34. They fit under 17" wheels and will be very reasonably priced for this > level of braking capability. > you done the math yet on brake balance/bias/dynamics yet? and if so, you care to share those numbers? I'm really looking for a system that is truly balanced. as in the limit of adhesion in braking is attained at all 4 wheels at the same time. also, for a balanced braking system, the thermal load at all 4 corners would be similar. as in the % utilization of the heat sink capacity is equal front to rear, so all the brakes would overheat at the same time. so not cooking the fronts and the rears only warm to hot (which is what the car does now). also, why such big rotors in the front? seems a bit excessive. 330mm was more than enough for most LMP cars (granted they are only 1500lbs, but they do more repetetive stopping from higher speeds than a 5 will ever see.) > Big brakes are not an option on the E34 - they are a _requirement_. I've > had 5-series for quite a few years now, and have experienced virtually every > setup listed on the BMWE34.net website. Frankly, all of the factory parts > (even the Nurburgring calipers) are insufficient, especially if you're > building a big-power car. > i don't know if bigger is always better. granted the E34 needs better brakes, but I think sizing the calipers to match the balance and maximum grip of the car is best. and then size the rotor to accomodate the heat characteristics of the system. i've been trying to work the math backwards, but keep finding things wrong with my approach. I want the math to be perfect before I figure out what calipers/rotors match the needs. the trial and error methodology would be an expensive way to approach this problem. - -Michael McCoy > - Rob > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 > > > > ok, so those are the fronts. what about the rears? > > > > I'm trying to get rid of the excessive front bias. (getting rid of heat > > faster too would also be a plus.) > > > > what can people tell me about the E23 7 series front brakes? they look to > be > > very similar to the front brakes on the M5/M6 of the early 80's. they use > > the same rebuilt kit... but don't have the same caliper PN and such. > > any info on rotor size and the likes? > > > > thanks > > > > -Michael McCoy > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:15:09 -0700 From: marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 Michael, Do I understand what you're saying correctly? Do you want to put smaller calipers in the front to move brake bias to the rear? I also think that if you really want to as you write " I'm really looking for a system that is truly balanced. as in the limit of adhesion in braking is attained at all 4 wheels at the same time." I hope you're not forgetting that weight transfers forward as you jump on the binders, so by making your bias move more to the rear without addressing forward weight transfer you're going to lock the rears up sooner and make the car pretty loopy. Or are you also putting some really fast computer controlled bias valve that compensates for the weight transfer. I'm obviously a bit puzzled as to what you're trying to do. BTW you can buy a cockpit adjustable brake bias valve that allows you to play with bias to your hearts content. Just don't test it on the highway. Marco Michael McCoy wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 7:26 PM > Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 > > > >>The E23 calipers are not compatible with the E34. >> > > > hmm. now you tell me. :oP > they have the same pistons as the M5/M6 so I was hoping that maybe they were > just a cheaper version made by ATE. > they are quite small. so that would definately have served my purpose in > moving lots of the brake bias to the rear. > oh well. they are on their way... less than $16 including shipping. maybe > I'll find a place for them to sit and look pretty. > > >>As posted previously, almost your entire menu of BMW factory-sourced > > options > >>is found right here: >> >>http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/brakes.htm >> >>(There's a rare E32 tiny 4-piston setup I left out of the list). >> >>How crazy do you want to go with the brakes? In about a week or two, UUC >>will have the 355mm 4-piston front and 328mm 4-piston rear available for > > the > >>E34. They fit under 17" wheels and will be very reasonably priced for > > this > >>level of braking capability. >> > > > you done the math yet on brake balance/bias/dynamics yet? and if so, you > care to share those numbers? > > I'm really looking for a system that is truly balanced. as in the limit of > adhesion in braking is attained at all 4 wheels at the same time. also, for > a balanced braking system, the thermal load at all 4 corners would be > similar. as in the % utilization of the heat sink capacity is equal front to > rear, so all the brakes would overheat at the same time. so not cooking the > fronts and the rears only warm to hot (which is what the car does now). > > also, why such big rotors in the front? seems a bit excessive. 330mm was > more than enough for most LMP cars (granted they are only 1500lbs, but they > do more repetetive stopping from higher speeds than a 5 will ever see.) > > >>Big brakes are not an option on the E34 - they are a _requirement_. I've >>had 5-series for quite a few years now, and have experienced virtually > > every > >>setup listed on the BMWE34.net website. Frankly, all of the factory parts >>(even the Nurburgring calipers) are insufficient, especially if you're >>building a big-power car. >> > > > i don't know if bigger is always better. granted the E34 needs better > brakes, but I think sizing the calipers to match the balance and maximum > grip of the car is best. and then size the rotor to accomodate the heat > characteristics of the system. > > i've been trying to work the math backwards, but keep finding things wrong > with my approach. I want the math to be perfect before I figure out what > calipers/rotors match the needs. the trial and error methodology would be an > expensive way to approach this problem. > > -Michael McCoy > > > > >>- Rob >> >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525 >> >> >> >>>ok, so those are the fronts. what about the rears? >>> >>>I'm trying to get rid of the excessive front bias. (getting rid of heat >>>faster too would also be a plus.) >>> >>>what can people tell me about the E23 7 series front brakes? they look >> > to > >>be >> >>>very similar to the front brakes on the M5/M6 of the early 80's. they >> > use > >>>the same rebuilt kit... but don't have the same caliper PN and such. >>>any info on rotor size and the likes? >>> >>>thanks >>> >>>-Michael McCoy >> > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6481 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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