[uucdigest]           Monday, July 14 2003           Volume 03 : Number 6569



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise
       RE: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise
       [uuc] Seeking E36 FAQs
       Re: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise
       Re: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise
       [uuc] E46 M3 pricing
       RE: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise
       RE: [uuc] E46 M3 pricing
       RE: [uuc] E46 M3 pricing
       [uuc] RE: [bimmerheads] Seeking E36 FAQs
       FW: [uuc] AC follow-up & questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 02:12:48 -0400
From: "Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise

KMS 6 speed conversion.

- - -Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Dadgar
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 1:28 AM
To: BMW List
Subject: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise


So my father has a '95 740i.  A trusted mechanic recently changed the
"lifetime" transmission fluid and now the transmission whines.  It's driving
my father crazy.

The mechanic says he used a BMW brand filter and I have no reason to doubt
him.

Anyone know how to fix this?

- - Mark
- --
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 02:28:15 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise

We can wait for Brett's explanation of why ATF should not be changed
after a certain age because the fresh fluid loosens various deposits
which will eventually cause transmission failure, or we can cut to
the chase and tell you the sound is about to change - to the sound of
enough dollar bills required to replace that transmission flapping
their wings as they fly out of Dad's wallet.

- - Rob

- ---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 22:28:29 -0700

>So my father has a '95 740i.  A trusted mechanic recently changed the
>"lifetime" transmission fluid and now the transmission whines.  It's
>driving
>my father crazy.  
>
>The mechanic says he used a BMW brand filter and I have no reason to
>doubt
>him.
>
>Anyone know how to fix this?
>
>- Mark
>--
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 23:55:25 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Seeking E36 FAQs

Hi groups, my wife and I have been searching for a car for our daughter to
learn how to drive.  We've decided to expand our search to E36 325iA's,
about which I have not much knowledge.  I know about the imploding plastic
impeller water pumps and the Ulfish coils.  I know about rear subframe mount
problems on tracked cars.  Can anyone direct me to a web site with FAQs on
what else to look for on an E36?  TIA.  Also, any input on the mileage
(longevity, not gas) we can expect from the automatic transmissions on the
'92 to '95 cars would be appreciated.

My preference is actually for an E30 six cylinder automatic (please, nothing
more on the debate over whether it is best to learn on an auto or a stick,
this is what we're doing, so there, pfffttthh).  My wife's preference is for
a 325i and not a 325e, despite my assurances that an e would be plenty fast
for her.  But that's fine, I like the later bumpers anyway.

We've seen and driven 5 cars so far, and made offers on 2 of them.  Both
were at used car dealers who would not deal enough to hit our price range.
Our requirements are to not significantly exceed the appropriate Kelley Blue
Book value (private party or dealer retail, depending on the seller) AFTER
the repair of the important stuff.  I can live with electrical glitches, a
few dents and scratches, the occasional missing trim piece, or a leaking
diff seal, for example.  But I need evidence of timing belt replacement
within the last 4 years or 50 miles, or else I add $400 for parts and labor,
and we pray that we'll make it far enough without breaking to get it
replaced.  One car appeared to be leaking oil around the head gasket area
and had not been properly repaired around the radiator area after an
accident.  One had a long list of mechanical problems, including a nasty
front end shake and a leaking oil pan gasket.  One needs brakes and a new
auxiliary cooling fan.

None of these problems would be that big a deal, if only I had the time to
work on them.  But my time is at a premium right now, so my budget must
include the labor to fix the problems we're not willing to live with.  So on
the drive home from Sacramento tonight we thought of expanding our search to
other models which we had previously not considered, thus my question.

Thanks again for any help,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 00:11:34 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise

For me, you damned betcha.

For Dad?  Um, no.

- - Mark

Matt Malfa * UUC Motorwerks at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> KMS 6 speed conversion.
> 
> - -Matt
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Dadgar
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 1:28 AM
> To: BMW List
> Subject: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise
> 
> 
> So my father has a '95 740i.  A trusted mechanic recently changed the
> "lifetime" transmission fluid and now the transmission whines.  It's driving
> my father crazy.
> 
> The mechanic says he used a BMW brand filter and I have no reason to doubt
> him.
> 
> Anyone know how to fix this?
> 
> - Mark
> --
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> 

- - Mark
- --
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 00:12:45 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise

Rob Levinson at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> We can wait for Brett's explanation of why ATF should not be changed
> after a certain age because the fresh fluid loosens various deposits
> which will eventually cause transmission failure, or we can cut to
> the chase and tell you the sound is about to change - to the sound of
> enough dollar bills required to replace that transmission flapping
> their wings as they fly out of Dad's wallet.

So, umm, that's not gonna make Dad real happy.

- - Mark
- --
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 00:16:01 -1000
From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E46 M3 pricing

hey gruppe...what kinds of prices do you folks see for 2003
M3s???  the dealer here is asking 5k over sticker, but my
salesman said the best he could do was 1k over sticker...

just curious as to what others are seeing/paying...thanx in
advance!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 08:13:06 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E38 Transmission Noise

The trans either does not have enough fluid, or it does not have the correct
fluid, or the filter is an aftermarket one with too short a neck, or he
didn't put an O ring on the neck, or pinched the O ring on installation
or.........

First thing to do is find out what fluid he used. Then the level needs to be
checked.  If both of those items check out, then he needs to go back into
the trans.

I'd suggest parking the car until he can get it back to the shop.

Brett Anderson
KMS



> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Dadgar
> So my father has a '95 740i.  A trusted mechanic recently changed the
> "lifetime" transmission fluid and now the transmission whines.
> It's driving
> my father crazy.
> The mechanic says he used a BMW brand filter and I have no reason to doubt
> him.
> Anyone know how to fix this?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 08:18:38 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] E46 M3 pricing

Midwestern Auto Group in Dublin, Ohio is asking sticker...


Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>hey gruppe...what kinds of prices do you folks see for 2003
>M3s??? �the dealer here is asking 5k over sticker, but my
>salesman said the best he could do was 1k over sticker...
>
>just curious as to what others are seeing/paying...thanx in
>advance!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 08:43:56 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E46 M3 pricing

Ganley BMW in Middleburg Heights OH, 440 845 9333, is at sticker or below.
What's it cost to ship a car to Hawaii?

Brett Anderson
KMS

> Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >hey gruppe...what kinds of prices do you folks see for 2003
> >M3s??? �the dealer here is asking 5k over sticker, but my
> >salesman said the best he could do was 1k over sticker...
> >just curious as to what others are seeing/paying...thanx in
> >advance!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 06:17:09 -0700
From: Brad Houser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: [bimmerheads] Seeking E36 FAQs

Scott:

When I had my E36 M3C(*), I found this site to be very helpful. You may
recognize some of the names there.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36.html

* Here she was on her Euro delivery date at the BMW 4 Zylinder Building:
http://www.bmw-m.net/Gallery/e36gallery/m3-58.jpg

Brad Houser



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scott & Charlotte Miller [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 11:55 PM
> To: E30 Yahoo Group; UUC Digest
> Subject: [bimmerheads] Seeking E36 FAQs
> 
> 
> Hi groups, my wife and I have been searching for a car for 
> our daughter to learn how to drive.  We've decided to expand 
> our search to E36 325iA's, about which I have not much 
> knowledge.  I know about the imploding plastic impeller water 
> pumps and the Ulfish coils.  I know about rear subframe mount 
> problems on tracked cars.  Can anyone direct me to a web site 
> with FAQs on what else to look for on an E36?  TIA.  Also, 
> any input on the mileage (longevity, not gas) we can expect 
> from the automatic transmissions on the '92 to '95 cars would 
> be appreciated.
> 
> My preference is actually for an E30 six cylinder automatic 
> (please, nothing more on the debate over whether it is best 
> to learn on an auto or a stick, this is what we're doing, so 
> there, pfffttthh).  My wife's preference is for a 325i and 
> not a 325e, despite my assurances that an e would be plenty 
> fast for her.  But that's fine, I like the later bumpers anyway.
> 
> We've seen and driven 5 cars so far, and made offers on 2 of 
> them.  Both were at used car dealers who would not deal 
> enough to hit our price range. Our requirements are to not 
> significantly exceed the appropriate Kelley Blue Book value 
> (private party or dealer retail, depending on the seller) 
> AFTER the repair of the important stuff.  I can live with 
> electrical glitches, a few dents and scratches, the 
> occasional missing trim piece, or a leaking diff seal, for 
> example.  But I need evidence of timing belt replacement 
> within the last 4 years or 50 miles, or else I add $400 for 
> parts and labor, and we pray that we'll make it far enough 
> without breaking to get it replaced.  One car appeared to be 
> leaking oil around the head gasket area and had not been 
> properly repaired around the radiator area after an accident. 
>  One had a long list of mechanical problems, including a 
> nasty front end shake and a leaking oil pan gasket.  One 
> needs brakes and a new auxiliary cooling fan.
> 
> None of these problems would be that big a deal, if only I 
> had the time to work on them.  But my time is at a premium 
> right now, so my budget must include the labor to fix the 
> problems we're not willing to live with.  So on the drive 
> home from Sacramento tonight we thought of expanding our 
> search to other models which we had previously not 
> considered, thus my question.
> 
> Thanks again for any help,
> 
> Scott Miller
> GGC BMW CCA
> 1990 325i
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
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> 
http://us.click.yahoo.com/YrYXfA/AyWGAA/ySSFAA/P23olB/TM
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 09:20:25 -0400
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FW: [uuc] AC follow-up & questions

Thanks for the reply.  I guess I'll just wait until it gets hot enough
and see if it's better (today should work).

As far as the line goes, there are two quick disconnect fittings on the
firewall just left of the engine.  I was told the one on the left was
the low pressure line, but it was too big.  The one on the right was the
correct size, so I hooked up to it and got a reading of 10 psi or so,
and that's where I added refrigerant to.  Is this not the right spot?
Looking at the Bentley diagram it looked like it should be correct,
although the Bentley just shows a sketch of the system, not where
components actually are in the car.

Might as well get ahead of myself here - let's say I decide to replace
my expansion valve (or anything else).  I'll take the car to a shop and
have the system evacuated.  Then I'll do my parts replacement then....?

- - Should I be replacing certain seals regardless of what I do?  Which
ones?
- - Is there anything else to know (assuming I'm sure I'm attached to the
right line)?  Just add the right amount of R134a and oil and be done
with it?

Thanks again for any advice.

Chris B.
'94 325i

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brant [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2003 3:54 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] AC follow-up & questions


Chris -

System pressure does not tell you much about refrigerant charge.  The
system should contain both gaseous and liquid refrigerant in equilibrium
with each other.  If it does, the system pressure is determined by the
type of refrigerant and the temperature - the level of charge has no
effect at all.  If the system is so depleted that no liquid remains, the
pressure will be below that of the two-phase system.

If your refrigerant can emptied into your system faster with the
compressor off than on, you were connected to the compressor discharge
line.  You should have been connected to the compressor suction line..

Brant

<<<<<<From: "C. Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] AC follow-up & questions

I made my first attempt at adding some refrigerant today - figured I
might as well try that first.  I bought a charge hose with a little
gauge on it and followed the directions with it since Bentley doesn't
say much about
charging.  The gauge has a little blue zone that is defined as
acceptable,
and ranges from 25 to 45 psi.  I added a couple cans of refrigerant and
wound up at about 35psi and left it at that.  A couple of questions:

. . . . When I turned the fan setting down and
the compressor shut off for a second, the bottle emptied pretty much
immediately.  Am I supposed to leave the compressor running and just
wait
all afternoon?  What is the recommended procedure here?
. . . .
Chris B.
'94 325i

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6569
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