[uucdigest]           Monday, July 21 2003           Volume 03 : Number 6581



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] 540iT vs Suburban
       RE: [uuc] E39 540it purchase questions
       re: [uuc] E39 540it purchase questions
       RE: [uuc] E39 540it purchase questions
       [uuc] LA dealers
       [uuc] E34 Door brake
       [uuc] <E30> Sparco strut brace
       Re: [uuc] 540iT vs Suburban
       [uuc] M20 head tear down- rocker shafts & cam q's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:48:28 -0700
From: Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 540iT vs Suburban

erm, unless you need to tow a boat or a car+trailer, there is no reason to
want a suburban over a 540iT.  

They said they were in that stage of their life when they're going to
home depot a lot.  My wife and i are in exactly that spot.  We have a 
00 Passat Wagon V6 5spd (MUCH roomier than any affordable BMW wagon, and 
easy to find with a manual, UNLIKE 5er wagons :/)

THe passat isn't the best or worst for rear cargo room (surprisingly enough,
the focus wagon has the higest rated trunk capacity iirc).  However, its
been serving us extremely well, especially once you get the roof bars.  
Yesterday we hauled a 8 foot couch on the bars (with all the cushions and
a DISHWASHER in the trunk) to the "throw away stuff for free" event the city
was putting on.  Today we hauled back a futon (frame on top, matress and 
ancillaries in the back).  

For towing power, i wont disagree with you - an american V8 on a truck 
chassis is not beatable.  But for just moving lots of people and lots of crap
around, a wagon is fantastic.  You'd have to remove basically all the seat 
rows to get a longer cargo deck out of a suburban than you get with a wagon
with just folding down the seats.  And honestly, why pay a HUGE premium for a
gas guzzling, truck handling monster, when all you need is a trailer hitch and
a single axle flat bed trailer.  Nobody buys more than 2000 pounds of stuff
from home depot at a time, and any european wagon can take a 200/2000 trailer
with an aftermarket (or factory) hitch.

My take - you want the performance and luxury of a german car every day.  You
exceed its native capacity one or two days a year.  For those days - rent a
home depot load and go, or buy a single axle trailer use it instead.

Matt
88 M5
00 Passat Wagon
1959 Rambler
- - brand new kitchen from the subfloor up
- - two new bathrooms from the subfloor up
(i beleive i am significant digit in home depots quarterly earnings)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 22:05:05 -0700
From: Peter du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E39 540it purchase questions

Wouldn't it be more cost effective to supercharge instead? Marginal cost 
increase over cams and whatnot, lots more power. If this is a wrong 
idea, I'd liked to know as it's the approach I'd take if any variant of 
a 528  were in the offing.

The alternative is get a beater truck for the weekend hauling......

Peter

E30 325iS, 250k
Tucson


>I would buy the 528it, slap on a conforti intake, a nice exhaust and a chip. If you 
>really want power, you can also go for the E36 M3 cams.
>
>I think you would find the steering in the 528it better than the steering in the 540i.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 22:16:08 -0700
From: John Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: re: [uuc] E39 540it purchase questions

> I'm trying to get a sense of any hotspots to worry about with the V8
> powerplant? the E39 platform in general?  Is there a good E39 page out
> there?  I'm very familiar with the E36 platform.

The bmwe39 yahoogroups list, bmwtips.com, the usual general-purpose sites 
e.g. roadfly, bimmerfest, bmwm5.com, there's I'm sure others.

E39 weak points: radiator neck failure on pre-2000? (change to 
spring-clip-retained hose) cars, some cat failures 50-60K miles, door seals 
on early cars squeak, folding rear seats on sedans can rattle, alphanumeric 
display in dash loses pixels (BMW will provide part free if you pay 2hr 
labor to fix), HVAC blower 'final stage resistor' goes bad causing random 
AC behavior, bonded-rubber oil filter mounts tear, some comments re front 
suspension bushing wear but this seems to be more common on 6-cyl cars (E39 
6cyl and V8 front suspensions/subframes different, 6cyl is front-steer 
w/R&P, V8 is rear-steer w/recirc ball, V8 cars borrowed design from E38), 
no real engine/slushbox issues I'm aware of.

1997-98 cars had M62 (no VANOS), 1999-up M62TU (single VANOS, smaller 
intake runners, more midrange grunt, maybe fractionally weaker at the top 
end), later sport-package cars get shorter rearend for better acceleration.

> I would buy the 528it, slap on a conforti intake, a nice exhaust and a
> chip.  If you really want power, you can also go for the E36 M3 cams.

It'd never match the torque of the V8, which matters when you're pushing a 
4000lb car around. 528i is viable with 5-speed, a little sluggish with 
automatic.

> I think you would find the steering in the 528it better than the
> steering in the 540i.

True, it is better but IMO not *that* much better.

> And there is nothing like a sweet inline-6, and **definitely** nothing
> like an S14 revving at 7800.

The ability to maneuver through traffic with an S62 under the hood, 
anywhere from 2200 to 7000 RPM, without touching the shifter.  540i doesn't 
get you one of those, though, it's not bad.

> Get the 6spd.

Not available in a US-market Touring.  Could probably be swapped in if one 
wanted to spend some money kitbashing.

> Ray was/is considering pulling a Brett - switching a 6-spd into a 540iT
> auto.

If I had a whole lot of time and a certain amount of money laying around, 
I'd have a 540iT parked next to a rear-end-total M5 and every day a few 
more parts would move...

> What would it take to convince BMW to make the next gen M5 available in a
> touring model?  Even if they priced it at, say, a $13k premium, they would
> still sell several hundred, not to mention win all sorts of kudos from
> enthusiasts....

I agree, there's definitely a core of us that'd love the idea, but is it 
enough?

John.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 01:30:49 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E39 540it purchase questions

Frankly, I think the difference in acquisition cost versus upgrade
cost should be examined before the purchase.

Buying a 528iT with the intention of supercharging it when a 540iT is
a similarly-priced alternative does not make much sense.  The final
result with a 540 will be faster, more reliable, and retain more
value / be easier to sell.  I don't see the point in building a small
motor up to the point where the factory already has a larger motor. 
If you already have the car and really like it, and the mod bug bites
you, that's one thing... but contemplating it for the initial
purchase in something entirely different.

- - Rob


- ---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] E39 540it purchase questions
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 22:05:05 -0700

>Wouldn't it be more cost effective to supercharge instead? Marginal
>cost 
>increase over cams and whatnot, lots more power. If this is a wrong 
>idea, I'd liked to know as it's the approach I'd take if any variant
>of 
>a 528  were in the offing.
>
>The alternative is get a beater truck for the weekend hauling......
>
>Peter
>
>E30 325iS, 250k
>Tucson
>
>
>>I would buy the 528it, slap on a conforti intake, a nice exhaust and
>a chip. If you really want power, you can also go for the E36 M3
>cams.
>>
>>I think you would find the steering in the 528it better than the
>steering in the 540i.
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 03:46:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Drendel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] LA dealers

According to some of my well informed sources, Santa Monica has the most
competitive automobile market in the US. You should be in an ideal
situation to shop around. I know that I got about 5 grand off list for my
mom's 325xi by simply calling around LA and then asking Weatherby in
Berkeley to give me the same deal.


                                                           John Drendel

Departement d'Histoire
Universite du Quebec a Montreal
CP 8888 Succ. "Centreville"
Montreal Qc. Canada H3C 3P8
514 987 3000 3687#

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 05:52:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E34 Door brake

Gruppe:

Pt. is '92 535i. Over the weekend the passenger door
brake started making a loud "popping" sound when the
reaching either the intermediate or full detent. I do
have the nice door brake reinforcement installed
(thanks, Brett) and the attachment bolts are tight.
The brake does hold well and makes no other noise.
I've kept it lubricated with lithium grease.

Seems pretty clear this is a failure mode, but before
I tear off the inner door panel I thought I'd check. I
did replace the driver's side a few years ago after it
seemed stiff, but I never had this noise. 

Jon

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 22:53:45 +1000
From: "Simon Leigh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Sparco strut brace

Greetings

I am looking into getting a strut brace for my 04/90 build RHD E30
318is.

The Sparco is listed at evosport and it is claimed to fit all E30s.

However the Ireland Engineering site says

"IMPORTANT--The factory book says the distance between the strut
towers is 1002.2mm +-2mm (39.5"). Measured from center to center
(where the shock sticks thru). We have found many cars that measure
about 980mm (38.5"). This leads us to believe BMW made two
slightly different unibodies.
Therefore we now make two versions of our brace"

I measured my car and it comes in at ~980mm.
I guess I could always modify it to fit.

Does anyone have first hand experience with this, especially a Sparco.

The other consideration is whether it actually fits over the top of
the M42.

A post from another Australian 318is owner states

"Neither the cheap steel Sparco nor the Ireland Engineering braces
will fit
the 318is. The Sparco bar is designed for the M3 but may fit 6
cylinder
models with some modification.

Sparco make a more expensive aluminium brace that is claimed to fit
the
318is but I have not found out for sure."

and yet another posts

"See http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/sparco/index.htm, which lists the
E30
Sparco strut brace fitment as "ALL" (03676, 70 GBP), "All except M3"
(03675,
90 GBP) and "M3" (03677, 45 GBP). None of these contain any adjustment
option."

which would suggest that either the 03676 or 03675 might work.

Any "first hand" experience would be appreciated.

Cheers
Simon Leigh  318is in Oz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 06:23:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jason Daniels <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] 540iT vs Suburban

That is why we bought a Volvo XC70 (Cross Country)
I needed the wagon after selling the Touring a year
and a half ago but didn't want a land barge. Is it the
best handeling? Nope, but with 9 inches of ground
clearance, aftermarket skid plates, better tires, a
3500 rated factory tow package, and some other
upgrades it is more than capable. I tow a 17ft boat
and a camper with it without any issues. It gets 25-30
mpg on the highway, is AWD, a big plus for the
ocasional off road too. The best seat I have had in a
car yet as well. The only draw back is it isn't
available in a 5 speed in the states, you have to go
to the "road" version of the wagon for that. I loved
my touring, but the maintenance was KILLING me. Geeze,
$800-1500 everytime I turned around. Time for the
money pit to go.  JMHO.

Jason 
- --- Matt Evans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> erm, unless you need to tow a boat or a car+trailer,
> there is no reason to
> want a suburban over a 540iT.  
> 
> They said they were in that stage of their life when
> they're going to
> home depot a lot.  My wife and i are in exactly that
> spot.  We have a 
> 00 Passat Wagon V6 5spd (MUCH roomier than any
> affordable BMW wagon, and 
> easy to find with a manual, UNLIKE 5er wagons :/)

> Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 09:23:19 -0400
From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] M20 head tear down- rocker shafts & cam q's

First, thanks to Gary (for the no-brainer advice) and Brett.  I had
mistakenly removed one of the tranny bolts (E14) and overlooked the fourth
and final E10 bolt.  No problems after that.  We'll, except for getting
greasy; it's a mess under there.

In removing the rocker arm shafts, I've run into a hitch.  How does one
remove the end plugs to access the threaded bolts?  I've been using a dowel
and hammer to drive the shafts free, but have run out of dowel after getting
6 & 5 disassembled.

I'm also looking for comments on determining if the rockers are good.  The
four I have examined so far are pitted on 1/2 of the surface, the portion
closest to the shaft journal.  Is that normally an area that contacts the
cam?

Does anyone have experience with having a cam reground?  There is some mild
pitting in a few areas.  Would a regrind would clean this up?  Are new
eccentrics necessary?  These questions may be better directed at Ireland
Engineering but email will get me a wider audience.

Cheers,

Roland

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6581
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