[uucdigest] Wednesday, July 23 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6594
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Checklist for a track newbie Re: [uuc] Checklist for a track newbie Re: [uuc] Solution- Issues removing front control arm/outer balljoints from Hub... [uuc] Free Carfax Report Problem Re: [uuc] VW diesels <WOB> RE: [uuc] window tinting Re: [uuc] Carfax/Brett Anderson/Professionalism RE: [uuc] Free Carfax Report Problem Re: [uuc] E46 330iPP [uuc] checklist for a track newbie [uuc] Re: Carfax/Brett Anderson/Professionalism ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:07:45 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Checklist for a track newbie 1 bar higher inflation is way too much. Your tire inflation depends on the car and tire among other things. What are your specs and your normal tire inflation? Gary Derian > Hello all, > > I'm about to take my white beauty to its first track day! :-) > > I'm sending the car for a service and overall examination next week, but > I'd appreciate any advice about do's and don't's on the racetrack. I > know about the fire extinguisher, helmet, oil, and masking the > headlights with tape... What else do you guys do? > > They recommend (in the club newsletter) inflating the tyres to 1 bar > above normal, why is that? Wouldn't that compromise roadholding or does > it make up for the smoother surface of the racetrack? > > Thanks! > > P. > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:20:59 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Checklist for a track newbie At 08:28 AM 7/23/03, Pavel Tcholakov talked about: >They recommend (in the club newsletter) inflating the tyres to 1 bar >above normal, why is that? Wouldn't that compromise roadholding or does >it make up for the smoother surface of the racetrack? Keeps the tire from rolling over onto it's sidewall when cornering. You'll be seeing cornering forces higher than you normally see in (most) daily driving situations. Depending on when & where your school is, some additional items: sunscreen hat tarp/plastic (in case it rains, helps keep stuff dry) folding chair cooler with drinks/snacks some basic tools including a tire pressure gauge and torque wrench Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - many drivers schools 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 11:24:58 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Solution- Issues removing front control arm/outer balljoints from Hub... Jesse- I understand your frustration. Here's the "seceret" the shops use: A Hammer. Try a variation of this: 1. Put the nut on the ball joint threads just a turn or two to protect the threads (a good habit even when trashing the part you're removing) 2. I am assuming you're working on the ground- turn the hub/wheel assy so than you can stand up and get a really big swing like you are going to chop wood. 3. Aim for the thick metal part of the hub where the ball joint comes through. 4. Here's the magical step- ...... It will do no good to stand there and bang away at the hub, it will start to leave maks, you'll get tired, pissed, etc. You need to pray for the strength of Samson and give it an accurate powerful shot. You may think this is lame advice because of all you have been thru. Chances are that if any experienced tech took a shot or two it would come loose. I have run into a few VERY stubborn ones, for these get a friend to use a long pry-bar or BF Screwdriver to put downward pressure on the control arm as close to the ball joint as possible. Take a very strong swing with a friend prying on it, and it will come loose. Disclaimer: This method may seem like a hack- it's not. When performed properly, it is an art. It is very easy to make this method look like a hack and ruin several parts including your fender after smacking it with the hammer because you don't aim well. If you don't feel confident you can be very powerful and accurate with the hammer, don't try it. Once, when I was just a grasshopper, I worked on an E34 control arm ball joint that was "impossible". I used a friends lift at his shop, after 2 hours whining for help he came over and put the mojo on the back of the hub with a framing hammer. 1, 2, 3. loose. Magic. I tried the other side and after getting quite mad I re-adjusted my position and got a really good swing- and BAM! got it loose. There's no better way once you master this. Tie rods, ball joints, barking dogs (just kidding)- works on all of them. Jon Siccardi TreehouseRacing.com - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 10:17 AM Subject: RE: [uuc] Issues removing front control arm/outer balljoints from Hub... > I believe the front suspension of the E30 and E36 use similar geometries, so any > useful hints for the E30 might work as well. Also a side note, I don't care > about damaging the ball joint or the control arm because I am replacing the > whole control arm. > > I wish I had access to air tools, because I think that would make life a whole > lot easier. If I absolutely can't get the hub separated from the control arm, I > was planning on just unbolting everything from the hub, disconnecting the tierod > (which I actually took off last night and tierod end came RIGHT off the hub), > taking the whole control arm off, and taking the control arm/hub to a shop to > get the hub and ball joint separated. > > Thanks for any help. > > Jesse Chamberlain > > -----Original Message----- > From: Timothy J Toohey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 11:01 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] Issues removing front control arm/outer balljoints > from Hub... > > > I'm not sure if this is the recommend way, but I successfully removed the > control arm and tie rod ball joints on my E30 with an impact hammer. There > is an indentation in the top of the bolt on both joints and I just soaked > the joint with liquid wrench and used the hammer to pop out the ball joint. > No damaged to the threads or the ball joint (as far as I could tell.) > However if you don't have access to air tools, then this info is useless. > There may be differences, as I have never worked on an E36 but hopefully > this may be useful info. Good luck > > Tim Toohey > '89 325is > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 9:04 AM > Subject: [uuc] Issues removing front control arm/outer balljoints from > Hub... > > > > I need some advice/help on separating the front control arm/outer > balljoint from > > the front hubs on my 93 325i. I can't seem to separate the passanger > side CA > > balljoint from the hub. I soaked it with some PB Blaster pentrating oil, > let it > > sit over night, and then tried to separate the two parts with my > pickle-fork and > > a 3lb hammer. After about 2.5 hours of hitting it, It still won't budge! > I > > started putting an indent in the pickle fork where it contacts the > balljoint and > > hub. Does anyone have any recommendations as to how to get these two > apart? > > Someone told me to try to use heat, to heat up the hub where it meets the > > balljoint bolt and then after it gets hot, try to use the pickle fork on > it > > then, and also to try to hit the top of the nut. Are there any other > tools I > > can try to get these two things apart? > > > > I have only tried one side so far, so I don't know if the other side would > be > > easier. > > > > Thanks for any help. > > > > Jesse Chamberlain > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > 93 325i up on jackstands getting new bushings all around. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:47:28 -0400 From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Free Carfax Report Problem Hi all, Well I tried to use the free Carfax report however my 911 VIN is froma 73 and it wont accept it, saying its too short. is there a way of converting it to the right number, or does carfax not cover these older vintage cars.. Please help Cheers Ron J 85 535i 73 911 For Sale (www.geocities.com/tatsu911/) "Freedom of the press is often reserved for those who own the presses" Michael Parenti. Ph.d Political Science Yale University. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 10:30:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Daniels <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] VW diesels <WOB> About right. He drives from Elpaso into Oklahoma and back each day. I think he said about 440 miles a day average. Jason - --- Edwin stanton MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > At an average 60 mph, that is 5 hours of driving > each and every day for > 25 months. > > Ed ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 10:43:37 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] window tinting To what Ben said I would add: a) Use a shop offering a nationally recognized brand of film with sputter coating(s). b) Look for a good warranty and keep it in a place you can easily remember later. c) Decide on front side windows only after you confirm that you can live with a film that can tear. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 13:51:50 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Carfax/Brett Anderson/Professionalism Kirk, dont know if you took my post as complaining, it wasn't, it was meant to say something to the effect. "don't open the door for the idiots, but stick a hand out for those that have stuck theirs out in help." So dont take my post as complaining about free help. Free help is always good Mike ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:55:00 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Free Carfax Report Problem I'm pretty sure you are out of luck on this. The 17-digit VIN didn't become law until the 1981 model year and Carfax doesn't even try to track pre-1981 vehicles. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i - -----Original Message----- From: Ron J [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 11:47 AM To: UUC-BMW Subject: [uuc] Free Carfax Report Problem Hi all, Well I tried to use the free Carfax report however my 911 VIN is froma 73 and it wont accept it, saying its too short. is there a way of converting it to the right number, or does carfax not cover these older vintage cars.. Please help Cheers Ron J 85 535i 73 911 For Sale (www.geocities.com/tatsu911/) "Freedom of the press is often reserved for those who own the presses" Michael Parenti. Ph.d Political Science Yale University. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 20:08:36 +0100 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E46 330iPP Neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: "We were struck by how incredibly heavy the stock wheel assemblies are. I'm certainly used to swapping wheels, but these were so heavy they're actually hard to mount. The rears turn out to weigh some 55 lbs. And no, they're not run-flat tires." I assume this is alloy wheel + tyre? I note from a BMW Finland options list I have (mercifully translated into English, as my Suomi is, er, rusty) that the newer Style 135 wheel is around 200 Euros cheaper, per wheel, than the old Style 72 wheel it replaced. Cheaper usually = heavier. I would bet that the 255/35 R18 Z rear tyre weighs a bit too, but 55 lb is an awful lot. These wheels - along with a bodykit, sports seats and a few other trinkets - are part of a "Sport" pack you can now specify on practically every 3er variant sold in Blighty. It's a good bet that the non-Sport models are both faster in a straight line and easier to drive quickly down an imperfect road. Andy T ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 12:33:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Dave Nichols <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] checklist for a track newbie - --0-2045781611-1058988835=:49873 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii There are several great articles on this subject. Check out the Peachtree Chapter web site, Tarheel Chapter website, and the articles on www.trackschedule.com Have a great time. Big Dog Dave Nichols - --0-2045781611-1058988835=:49873 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <DIV>There are several great articles on this subject. Check out the Peachtree Chapter web site, Tarheel Chapter website, and the articles on <A href="http://www.trackschedule.com";>www.trackschedule.com</A></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Have a great time.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Big Dog</DIV><BR><BR>Dave Nichols - --0-2045781611-1058988835=:49873-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 15:59:01 -0400 From: Phil Marx <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Carfax/Brett Anderson/Professionalism Kirk A. Gilchrist wrote: >Just randomly wondering what all of the DIY's would and will do without any >professional assistance or information? Maybe we'll just grow up to become professional techs? How did you start? I don't know about some of you, but I learned from professional techs. I was NIASE certified nearly 20 years ago before the name changed, and managed a three-franchise shop for a few years in between sales and general management gigs. I certainly appreciate the assistance pro techs have offered to CCA members and others over the years. It must often times be a pain in the ass. But if it becomes too much, or you get pissed-off at one respondent, don't lump us all in one basket or you'll be painted with the same brush as all the stealers and incompetents that drive many BMW owners to become DIYs in the first place. There are a lot of us who do it ourselves to make sure the job is done right. There are others who know we can do it as well and hate paying what a shop will charge to do it wrong. There are some without a competent shop within a reasonable distance. And there are others who can't afford what dealers and independents charge for repairing cars they're trying to keep running while putting three kids through college after being laid-off from IT jobs. Don't patronize the DIYs and don't blame all of them for the stupid actions of some. And don't confuse sanctimony with civility. Or patronage with helpfulness. Help because you want to and it gives back some of what someone once gave to you. Or don't. - -Phil Marx Always willing to help, maybe not with the most knowledge or up-to-date info, or rentable tools or data, but with what I can when I can. Just like most of you. And thanks, in case no one's said it to you recently. ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6594 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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