[uucdigest] Saturday, July 26 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6605
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal RE: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal [uuc] M20 head repair Re: [uuc] M20 head repair [uuc] re: Splines ..changed when? Re: [uuc] re: Splines ..changed when? [uuc] WINDOW REGULATOR PAUSING UP AND DOWN Re: [uuc] re: Splines ..changed when? Re: [uuc] WINDOW REGULATOR PAUSING UP AND DOWN [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question RE: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 18:02:01 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal Kirk comments >> >> Take off the brake pads and treat ANY surface that touches metal to metal >> with a VERY small amount of silver anti-seize paste or a suitable brake >> lube (NAPA makes a nifty product called Syl Glide). Your noise will go away. Phillip asks > > When you say any surface, do you mean the pad face that contacts the rotor > as well? No, read Kirk's comment again, he says "metal to metal". Unless you are using metal pads (which wouldn't stop very well gripping a metal rotor), don't put anti-seize on the surface of the pad. No, Metal Master pads aren't made just of metal... Put it on the metal surfaces (the back of the pad, possibly the guides), but don't put it on the pad surface. The noise emanates largely from the metal to metal contact area (the back of the pad against the caliper/piston). Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 17:07:52 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal I have also heard that filing the edges of the brake pads down a bit will aid in getting rid of squeeeeeeks. Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com > No, read Kirk's comment again, he says "metal to metal". Unless > you are using metal pads (which wouldn't stop very well gripping > a metal rotor), don't put anti-seize on the surface of the pad. > No, Metal Master pads aren't made just of metal... > > Put it on the metal surfaces (the back of the pad, possibly the > guides), but don't put it on the pad surface. The noise emanates > largely from the metal to metal contact area (the back of the pad > against the caliper/piston). > > Regards, > > Rich > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 18:36:24 -0400 From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M20 head repair Maybe someone with experience can help me play "what is this?". BMA supplied a gasket kit for the head repair. It includes all sort of goodies like the head gasket, intake & exhaust manifold gaskets, etc. There are several items that are a mystery to me. To wit: 1)Three orange plastic sleeves, approx. 30 mm long 2)o-rings of various sizes (one may be for the distributor dust seal) 3)what appear to be aluminum spacers (crush washers), 2 each in two different sizes I did not notice anything resembling these parts during my tear down. It's one thing to have extra parts after you're done, but before you even start? Cheers, Roland ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 18:56:18 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M20 head repair O-rings are used on thermostat, radiator drain and top and bottom of oil return tube. Crush washers are used under the thermo switches and a hose fitting to the block under the intake manifold, as well as oil drain plug. You don't ever use everything in the kit. Ed Beaudette, Roland wrote: >Maybe someone with experience can help me play "what is this?". BMA >supplied a gasket kit for the head repair. It includes all sort of goodies >like the head gasket, intake & exhaust manifold gaskets, etc. There are >several items that are a mystery to me. To wit: > >1)Three orange plastic sleeves, approx. 30 mm long >2)o-rings of various sizes (one may be for the distributor dust seal) >3)what appear to be aluminum spacers (crush washers), 2 each in two >different sizes > >I did not notice anything resembling these parts during my tear down. It's >one thing to have extra parts after you're done, but before you even start? > >Cheers, > >Roland > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 17:30:25 -0700 (PDT) From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: Splines ..changed when? It goes something like this: Early splines: 2002, E12, E21, E23, E24, and earlier Late splines: E28, E30, E32, and later I found some differences among the hubs in the earlier cars, even though the shafts and splines were the same. Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii, 73 2002 Oakland, CA > From: "BMWBITS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Splines ..changed when? > > When did BMW change the number of splines on the steering column and > wheel ? > I have a beautiful 1988 E30M3 wheel that someone wanted to install on a > 1982 320i . Everything matches but the spline-count it seems...took it > out and tried it on my 323i Schnitzer turbo ...wont go on .At least I > hadnt shipped it mistakenly. > Grr......I didn�t mike them but the splines even seem to be the same dia > so just the qty of splines must've changed at some point .I don�t > believe in the 'just push harder' school .. > Anyone want a nice steering wheel ? 'late' spline count only ...perfect > cond .. > > Bill & Shirley Proud, > Tennessee..winters, Seattle..summers > Long commute in between . ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 22:15:05 -0400 From: "GA Carnut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] re: Splines ..changed when? I believe it was a year change, around late '85 or early '86. This is from the mye28 forum: (http://mye28.com/forum/index.html - I searched on 'steering spline change') - --- Date: January 03, 2003 at 12:46:32 From: Charles Gray, [209.68.238.7] Subject: Eddie in Seattle, re: early/late steering wheels..... Eddie, If you measure the distance of �A� in the picture you should be able to determine if you have an early or late wheel without removing it. If the distance is approximately 7.5cm it�s an early, coarse splined wheel. If it�s around 9cm, it�s a late, fine splined wheel. The big difference is the steering lock system, the spline change was incidental. On the pre 9/85 cars the steering lock function used the column itself whereas the 9/85 on cars used a square pin that comes out of the top of the column and locks into a notch inside the hub of the steering wheel. - --- I bought a 3-spoke sport wheel for my '88 e28, from a guy who'd bought it for his '83? 635, and it didn't fit his. Lucky for me - fit perfectly! Chip Mautz '88 BMW 528e '65 Austin Healey Sprite '03 Chevy Suburban I don't know. I'm making this up as I go - Indiana Jones _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 20:43:08 -0700 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WINDOW REGULATOR PAUSING UP AND DOWN Group, Purchased a new window regulator for the passenger door on my 88 M6 and the same problem is occurring. When I roll the window up or down (at about the half way point) the window nearly comes to a stop and makes a clunking noise before speeding back up. I thought that purchasing a new regulator to replace the old one would do the trick. They are both doing the same thing. I've inspected the door to look for foreign object impediments, but can't seem to see any. Is this an anomaly? Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Any help would be appreciated. Chris 88 M6 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com 01 X5 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 20:57:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] re: Splines ..changed when? I think the original poster was asking about the earlier change. There was an earlier change, too. Here's what I've learned from browsing the ETK and my various experiences with different wheels: The first steering wheel spline was for e12, e21, e23, and early e24 up to 5/82. The second spline was for mid e24 (5/82 - 9/85) and early e28 (up to 9/85). The third spline was for later e24 (9/85 on), later e28 (9/85 on), e30, e32, all non-M, non-iX e34s, and early e34 M5s. The fourth spline was for later M5s, e36, etc. I don't have experience with the first version. Never seen one in person. The second one my '85 535i has. The third one my '87 528e had. I know for a fact that you can swap the upper steering columns between these two (2nd and 3rd), because I put the 528e column in my 535i with no problems. The fourth one has a larger shaft altogether. Because the e28, e24, etc steering column is made differently than the e34 M5, e36, etc, you cannot swap these steering columns (as far as I know). I hope this clears up any confusion. You can make sure I'm right by checking your ETK. That's how I got most of this info. Brad "Shifty" Couvillon '85 Euro 535i www.fatdaddybmw.com - --- GA Carnut <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I believe it was a year change, around late '85 or > early '86. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 21:00:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] WINDOW REGULATOR PAUSING UP AND DOWN This sounds similar to what my old 528e did in the right rear. It turns out the window regulator came disconnected from the window itself. I think there's a clip that holds the pieces together. When the window motor would reach a certain point in its travel, it would put the window at an angle to where it would disconnect from the window regulator. Rolling the window back up would reconnect the window. Since it was a window that I never used otherwise, I never got around to fixing this problem before the car was totalled in March. Is the window properly secured to the regulator? Another possibility is that the track is loose and is causing a bind in the travel of the regulator. HTH, Brad Couvillon '85 Euro 535i www.fatdaddybmw.com - --- Chris Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Group, > > Purchased a new window regulator for the passenger > door on my 88 M6 and > the same problem is occurring. When I roll the > window up or down (at > about the half way point) the window nearly comes to > a stop and makes a > clunking noise before speeding back up. > > I thought that purchasing a new regulator to replace > the old one would > do the trick. They are both doing the same thing. > > I've inspected the door to look for foreign object > impediments, but > can't seem to see any. > > Is this an anomaly? Has anyone else experienced > anything like this? > > Any help would be appreciated. > > Chris > 88 M6 > 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com > 01 X5 > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 23:02:47 -0700 From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question 1989 325i, 5300 miles on new Dunlop 205 60 15 Sports. This Dunlop tire uses three center ribs flanked by tread blocks on the inner and outer sides. No pulling or strange handling noted. Running 34psi in the front tires. What I can see and feel is that on the outer edge tread blocks the back of the block is wearing more rapidly, causing a noticeable "feather" on the front of the block. This is observed on both left and right front tires. I can almost convince myself that I feel the same thing on the left inner blocks, but to a very slight degree. I wouldn't describe this as cupping. . . Haven't found a good picture or description of this on the net, so I come to the well. What sort of problem could be causing this? Overmuch toe out? Thanks for your thoughts, Tom ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2003 06:49:35 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question Usually caused by bad shocks. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of T WALROD > 1989 325i, 5300 miles on new Dunlop 205 60 15 Sports. This > Dunlop tire uses > three center ribs flanked by tread blocks on the inner and outer > sides. No > pulling or strange handling noted. Running 34psi in the front > tires. What > I can see and feel is that on the outer edge tread blocks the back of the > block is wearing more rapidly, causing a noticeable "feather" on > the front > of the block. This is observed on both left and right front > tires. I can > almost convince myself that I feel the same thing on the left > inner blocks, > but to a very slight degree. I wouldn't describe this as cupping. . . > Haven't found a good picture or description of this on the net, > so I come to > the well. > What sort of problem could be causing this? Overmuch toe out? ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6605 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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