[uucdigest] Friday, July 25 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6604
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] One problem solved Re: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal [uuc] car trailer for sale Re: [uuc] car trailer for sale Re: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal Re: [uuc] <e36> Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts Re: [uuc] Secondary Air Pump...New Tire Question...Shocks?...Sway Bars? [uuc] Re: Rear Brake squeal Re: [uuc] One problem solved Re: [uuc] One problem solved [uuc] Splines ..changed when? [uuc] <E30> Something loose in the front end ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 11:14:28 -0400 From: Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] One problem solved On Friday, Jul 25, 2003, at 10:46 US/Eastern, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > considering one now that they're $99 This is the 35lb alu jobbie from Harbor Freight? Their web site shows it at $149. Where'd you see it at $99? tom (also considering one at $99) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 11:17:07 -0400 From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal Take off the brake pads and treat ANY surface that touches metal to metal with a VERY small amount of silver anti-seize paste or a suitable brake lube (NAPA makes a nifty product called Syl Glide). Your noise will go away. You may also need to very lightly bevel the edges of the pad surface all the way around, not just on the leading edge. Square surfaces will cause a squeal and so will metal to metal contact areas. Good luck. P.S. In using this method on every set of pads that I have put on in the last ten years, I have not had one set come back with a squeal. I also use a product from BG products that you can actually put on the face of the pad material and allow to soak in that really does the trick also. This is hard to find, so I did not mention it earlier. BG actually makes a brake pad installation "kit" that is GUARANTEED to stop all brake squeal. If it does not, they will pay to replace the pads, parts and labor. Pretty good deal from a chemical manufacturer. Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 11:41:39 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] car trailer for sale > the wrecked 318 is on it in these pics... > http://www.kwyjibo.com/ispeed/raceteam/april1299/rolled.htm Obligatory repost for a nice trailer for the money and to laugh again at the pics of Brett with that surly beard. ;-) Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:42:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] car trailer for sale LOL! I briefly "worked" for Avis during my college tenure - we had those lovely Alliances as rentals along with such beauties as the Dodge Aires and the Pontiac Grand Prix (RWD). As a car jockey, we moved cars to/from the airport to our off-site facility. The goal of the job was to stick the other guys with the Alliances so you could get into the luxury cars like the Cadillacs or Caprices. - --- ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > learned to drive in a Renault Alliance aka Renault 9 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 11:50:57 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal When you say any surface, do you mean the pad face that contacts the rotor as well? Take off the brake pads and treat ANY surface that touches metal to metal with a VERY small amount of silver anti-seize paste or a suitable brake lube (NAPA makes a nifty product called Syl Glide). Your noise will go away. You may also need to very lightly bevel the edges of the pad surface all the way around, not just on the leading edge. Square surfaces will cause a squeal and so will metal to metal contact areas. Good luck. P.S. In using this method on every set of pads that I have put on in the last ten years, I have not had one set come back with a squeal. I also use a product from BG products that you can actually put on the face of the pad material and allow to soak in that really does the trick also. This is hard to find, so I did not mention it earlier. BG actually makes a brake pad installation "kit" that is GUARANTEED to stop all brake squeal. If it does not, they will pay to replace the pads, parts and labor. Pretty good deal from a chemical manufacturer. Kirk A. Gilchrist EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair 8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 [EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 10:54:14 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36> Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts "Clan Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Both ActiveAutowerke and Turner Motorsport offer Rear Camber Correction > Arms for the e36. Mike, Those adjustable arms are widely used by autoXers and club racers for cranking the rear camber beyound the -2.0-2.5 you can get on a lowered E36 with stock rear lower control arms. > Since I'm also experiencing high wearout of the inner edge of my tires > (due to the lowered stance of the H&R Sports I believe), I'm thinking > that a set of these would pay for themselves in tire savings over > the years. If you are wearing of rear tires on the inner edge, you already have too much negative camber. Have you aligned your car recently? You should have plenty of room to crank back rear camber with stock arms. With rear H&R race springs and rear camber cranked to the max, I can only get -2.4 on the passenger and -2.2 on the driver side. That's not enough for the track and with front<-> back tire rotation, the tire wear is even. > Could anyone comment on either company's product? My biggest concern > (besides their cost) is durability. You've got nothing to worry about (durability wise). But in all likelyhood, you don't need them. > On RUSMs, it would appear that the e46 RUSM with the Z3 reinforcement > plate is the way to go, I disagree. All stock BMW RSMs are crap. The rubber rots and deteriorates in no time and you will be back pealing the trunk lining and installing replacements in no time. E46 RSMs have assumed the "BMW miracle RSM" spot previously occupied by E30iC mounts. Both are not much better than regular BMW RSMs. Just say no to them. > but Ground Control offers their custom solution (lifetime guarantee to > original purchaser) with urethane bushings. Not just that. More importantly, installing GC RSMs will be the last time you have to peal trunk lining. From that point on, you can remove/replace the rear shocks/RSMs from inside the wheel well! And they do seam to last forever. I've had one set on for 30K miles (a good number of those on track/autoX course) with no signs of wear. > My concern with the GC solution is unwanted NVH from the urethane > bushing. Can anyone comment to their experience here as well? There isn't any. alex f ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 11:07:41 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Secondary Air Pump...New Tire Question...Shocks?...Sway Bars? "Joseph T. Baptista Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Occasionally at start-up, it sounds like a cat is stuck in my engine > compartment. The noise appears to be coming from the secondary air > pump. Has anyone had this problem? How involved is the repair? Joe, Two things: 1. the secondary air pump valve on the exhaust manifold has failed and is bleeding exhaust into the pump. As a result, water vapor is blowing into the pump and corroding the hack out of it. Get a new $65 valve NOW! 2. your secondary air pump is corroding inside. Remove it ASAP and drain the water out. It may or may not be too late to save the pump. I recently had to replace one on my wife's car and the best deal was $143 from Pacific BMW (800-909-7278). Don't forget to buy a new gasket and mounts (or be hyper careful removing the old $10/each mounts!). > Second question, I need new tires for my 96 328i (Tire Size: 225 50 > R16) asap! I live in New England but will never drive this car in > the snow or ice. I am looking for a performance tire with good ride > quality and decent tread life. I have no plans to be at the track, > street-use only. If money is no object, get new Michelin Pilot Sports or old Bridgestone S02PP's. Or any other tire recommended by TireRack's customers: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp > Last question, I am looking to improve the performance handling of > the car. I have no plans to install larger wheels so the need to > install springs is limited, I think. Should I go with sport shocks > or sway bars? If so, what does everyone recommend? Do yourself a BIG favor and go to your local BMW CCA chapter's event (meeting, autoX, DE, anything). Ask what other people have done to cars like yours. Ask them for a test drive (most will gladly agree). Pick the mods that please your butt and ignore all the internet pundits! ;-) alex f ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 09:18:30 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Rear Brake squeal Phillip, what kind of brake pads are you using? Try a quieter pad. The Mintex pads I bought from Jack Money are extremely quiet. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i >Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 08:10:18 -0400 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] Rear Brake squeal > >My '95 Ti has developed an annoying rear brake squeal especially noticeable >when gently braking. The actual braking is not affected, brakes work fine. >Here is what I have done so far... > >Tighten the E-brake as per instructions in Bentley - this solved that >rattling sound you get over rough roads for a few days, it's back now > >Removed calipers, pads, etc. Pads are in good shape, no noticeable grooves >or dirt/rocks. Rotors are a bit worn, but the car only has 60K miles - I >wouldn't think the rear rotors are beyond the limit yet. If so, would this >cause the noise? > >Checked, inspected, cleaned, put a few ounces of Stop-Squeal on each side, >bled the caliper just a bit and reassembled. > >This worked for about 1 week, now the squeal is back. They only squeal >under light braking and not all the time. > >It may be helpful to note that I live down a gravel driveway, though I >can't see that much grit getting into the brakes to cause the noises. > >Any ideas?? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 12:39:23 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] One problem solved Thomas Philip wrote: > > considering one now that they're $99 > > This is the 35lb alu jobbie from Harbor Freight? Their web site shows > it at $149. Where'd you see it at $99? apparently their retail stores will match any printed price from an online seller. this from a friend of Carlos & mine who got one yesterday. a link to a $99 seller to print & use : http://www.softwareandstuff.com/misc_alumracingjk.html dunno if it applies to all stores or just the one near us. Ben also considering one for $99 to supplement the $130 AC20 that Tom picked up from the scratch 'n' dent sale Steve D'G clued the Garage into last year. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 12:38:41 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] One problem solved Thomas Philip wrote: > > considering one now that they're $99 > > This is the 35lb alu jobbie from Harbor Freight? Their web site shows > it at $149. Where'd you see it at $99? apparently their retail stores will match any printed price from an online seller. this from a friend of Carlos & mine who got one yesterday. a link to a $99 seller to print & use : http://www.softwareandstuff.com/misc_alumracingjk.html dunno if it applies to all stores or just the one near us. Ben also considering one for $99 to supplement the $130 AC20 that Tom picked up from the scratch 'n' dent sale Steve D'G clued the garage into last year. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 14:45:09 -0400 From: "BMWBITS" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Splines ..changed when? When did BMW change the number of splines on the steering column and wheel ? I have a beautiful 1988 E30M3 wheel that someone wanted to install on a 1982 320i . Everything matches but the spline-count it seems...took it out and tried it on my 323i Schnitzer turbo ...wont go on .At least I hadnt shipped it mistakenly. Grr......I didn�t mike them but the splines even seem to be the same dia so just the qty of splines must've changed at some point .I don�t believe in the 'just push harder' school .. Anyone want a nice steering wheel ? 'late' spline count only ...perfect cond .. Bill & Shirley Proud, Tennessee..winters, Seattle..summers Long commute in between . ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2003 17:43:45 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E30> Something loose in the front end My '87 325iC has felt a little loose in the steering for a while. It doesn't seem to corner as sharply as it used to, and the front suspension seems to be more easily unsettled by bumps than it was in the past. The most recent development is a clunking sound during low-speed cornering, especially when the pavement isn't totally flat - turning into a driveway or parking lot, for example. The car feels fine on the highway and on the associated ramps. In the Bentley manual, I just found a picture of the connecting links for the front stabilizer bar. (Is this the same thing as a sway bar and/or anti-roll bar?) It says that worn rubber bushings in these links could cause a problem like the one I'm experiencing. Before even reading that, I took a look under the car in the front, and the only thing that looked worn was one of these link bushings. Maybe I've answered my own question. I tried tightening the under-dash collar (which was already pretty tight) on the steering column, like Mike Miller suggested in the latest issue of Bimmer, but the problem is still there. I'd appreciate advice on whether or not replacing these stabilizer bar links is likely to solve the problem, and what I'll need in the way of technique/tools/parts. Thanks! - -Mike Kozitka ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6604 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
