[uucdigest] Monday, July 28 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6607
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Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question [uuc] WTB E28 535i DME [uuc] E36 Water Pump Failures- PICS RE: [uuc] E36 Water Pump Failures- PICS [uuc] 1999 318IS E36 [uuc] [E30] clutch hydraulics Re: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question RE: [uuc] [E30] clutch hydraulics RE: [uuc] <E30> Something loose in the front end RE: [uuc] <E30> Something loose in the front end Re: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question RE: [uuc] [E30] clutch hydraulics [uuc] Re: [e36] Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:46:00 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question Sounds like heel and toe wear. Some tires just do it. Bad alignment can aggravate it. Rotate your tires often, say every 5000 miles. Gary Derian > 1989 325i, 5300 miles on new Dunlop 205 60 15 Sports. This Dunlop tire uses > three center ribs flanked by tread blocks on the inner and outer sides. No > pulling or strange handling noted. Running 34psi in the front tires. What > I can see and feel is that on the outer edge tread blocks the back of the > block is wearing more rapidly, causing a noticeable "feather" on the front > of the block. This is observed on both left and right front tires. I can > almost convince myself that I feel the same thing on the left inner blocks, > but to a very slight degree. I wouldn't describe this as cupping. . . > Haven't found a good picture or description of this on the net, so I come to > the well. > > What sort of problem could be causing this? Overmuch toe out? > > Thanks for your thoughts, Tom > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 22:28:17 +0100 From: "Jose Santana" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WTB E28 535i DME Hello folks, I need an E28 535i DME (Bosch # 0 261 200 059) BUT it has to be the one with the 28-pin eprom! I already have the one with the 24-pin eprom, and now I need the other. BTW, it doesn't matter if it doesn't work. If you have one laying around and want to sell it, please drop me a line... Thanks. Jos� Santana <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Canary Islands, Spain. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 15:11:16 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 Water Pump Failures- PICS So E36 plastic impeller water pump failures are legendary but I've never actually seen pics of how the failure manifests itself. Thanks to Ramon LeFrancoix at Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas, CA, I now have a pic and a small QuickTime movie of a dead pump, which I've put up on the Web. You can see it at: http://www.pdc-racing.net/gallery/e36waterpump/index.html If you've still got one of these pumps in your car, well, good luck with that. :) - - Mark - -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2003 18:52:54 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 Water Pump Failures- PICS Interestingly, contrary to my own experience, I removed a plastic impeller water pump from a 95 M3 last week that showed NO signs of degradation. Car had 21K miles on it, which would have something to do with it, but it was the first one I've EVER seen that did not, at least, have radial cracks on it. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Dadgar > So E36 plastic impeller water pump failures are legendary but I've never > actually seen pics of how the failure manifests itself. > Thanks to Ramon LeFrancoix at Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas, CA, I now > have a pic and a small QuickTime movie of a dead pump, which I've > put up on the Web. You can see it at: > http://www.pdc-racing.net/gallery/e36waterpump/index.html > If you've still got one of these pumps in your car, well, good luck with > that. :) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:37:08 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] 1999 318IS E36 Hi, I've just purchased a 99 318IS E36 coupe. Just wondering if these cars are run off a timing chain or a timing belt. Also, does the water pump and the thermostat need to be replaced on these cars. If so, when do they have to be replaced? Are there any others noticable problems with these cars? The car has 44000 miles on it. Cheers, Eddie ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 13:39:34 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [E30] clutch hydraulics Gruppe: Last night while driving home, I shifted, and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. (The clutch did disengage.) This happened a few more times on the way home, while other times the pedal acted normal. On my last shift (neutral > first) before going home the clutch did not seem to act normal. (But that could b emy perception.) Anyway, do I need a bleeding, or new parts? Gilbert '87 325 (199750 miles) _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 06:40:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Byrum <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question On Sun, 27 Jul 2003, Gary Derian wrote: > Sounds like heel and toe wear. Some tires just do it. Bad alignment can > aggravate it. Rotate your tires often, say every 5000 miles. > > Gary Derian I don't know about you (actually I do, I know you don't rotate my tires), but I rotate my 235/40-17 tires almost daily, about 4,132,550 times over the course of 5000 miles. Is that often enough or should I switch to a faster rotation interval? Tom Byrum '93 325i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:49:03 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] [E30] clutch hydraulics The pedal is returned by fluid pressure, created by the pressure plate springs returning to rest. At the mileage you have on your car, my money is on the slave cylinder, however, if you have no fluid leaking, then it's more likely the master. Again, due to your mileage, I'd save the heartache and replace both the master and the slave at the same time. Make sure you replace the rubber hose that goes from the fluid reservoir to the master, as they can degrade and allow small particles of rubber to get into the master, causing problems. How funny did the clutch feel on the last use? How old is the clutch? It's also possible, but unlikely due to the intermittent nature, that the pressure plate itself is failing. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gilbert Hoffman > Last night while driving home, I shifted, and the clutch pedal > stayed on the > floor. (The clutch did disengage.) This happened a few more times > on the way > home, while other times the pedal acted normal. On my last shift > (neutral > > first) before going home the clutch did not seem to act normal. (But that > could b emy perception.) Anyway, do I need a bleeding, or new parts? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:54:34 -0400 From: "Zidlicky, Peter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> Something loose in the front end May - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 5:44 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] <E30> Something loose in the front end My '87 325iC has felt a little loose in the steering for a while. It doesn't seem to corner as sharply as it used to, and the front suspension seems to be more easily unsettled by bumps than it was in the past. The most recent development is a clunking sound during low-speed cornering, especially when the pavement isn't totally flat - turning into a driveway or parking lot, for example. The car feels fine on the highway and on the associated ramps. In the Bentley manual, I just found a picture of the connecting links for the front stabilizer bar. (Is this the same thing as a sway bar and/or anti-roll bar?) It says that worn rubber bushings in these links could cause a problem like the one I'm experiencing. Before even reading that, I took a look under the car in the front, and the only thing that looked worn was one of these link bushings. Maybe I've answered my own question. I tried tightening the under-dash collar (which was already pretty tight) on the steering column, like Mike Miller suggested in the latest issue of Bimmer, but the problem is still there. I'd appreciate advice on whether or not replacing these stabilizer bar links is likely to solve the problem, and what I'll need in the way of technique/tools/parts. Thanks! - -Mike Kozitka This message is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed, and may contain information that is privileged, confidential and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from all computers. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:57:09 -0400 From: "Zidlicky, Peter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> Something loose in the front end Mike: Not sure about the stabilizer bar links ... but I would think that a more likely culprit would be worn ball joints on the front control arms. You did not mention mileage, but these tend to wear at 100k or so ... makes sense to replace both if they're original since the other is likely to fail soon thereafter. Peter '90 325ic '88 m3 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] My '87 325iC has felt a little loose in the steering for a while. It doesn't seem to corner as sharply as it used to, and the front suspension seems to be more easily unsettled by bumps than it was in the past. The most recent development is a clunking sound during low-speed cornering, especially when the pavement isn't totally flat - turning into a driveway or parking lot, for example. The car feels fine on the highway and on the associated ramps. In the Bentley manual, I just found a picture of the connecting links for the front stabilizer bar. (Is this the same thing as a sway bar and/or anti-roll bar?) It says that worn rubber bushings in these links could cause a problem like the one I'm experiencing. Before even reading that, I took a look under the car in the front, and the only thing that looked worn was one of these link bushings. Maybe I've answered my own question. I tried tightening the under-dash collar (which was already pretty tight) on the steering column, like Mike Miller suggested in the latest issue of Bimmer, but the problem is still there. I'd appreciate advice on whether or not replacing these stabilizer bar links is likely to solve the problem, and what I'll need in the way of technique/tools/parts. Thanks! - -Mike Kozitka This message is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed, and may contain information that is privileged, confidential and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from all computers. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 09:58:10 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Abnormal tire wear question One should rotate tires at least 4,132,551 times in 5000 miles. This is obviously your problem no matter what the symptom. Gary Derian > On Sun, 27 Jul 2003, Gary Derian wrote: > > > Sounds like heel and toe wear. Some tires just do it. Bad alignment can > > aggravate it. Rotate your tires often, say every 5000 miles. > > > > Gary Derian > > I don't know about you (actually I do, I know you don't rotate my tires), but I > rotate my 235/40-17 tires almost daily, about 4,132,550 times over the course of > 5000 miles. Is that often enough or should I switch to a faster rotation > interval? > > > Tom Byrum > '93 325i > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:17:10 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] [E30] clutch hydraulics That implies a hydraulic problem. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: Gilbert Hoffman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Brett asked: > >How funny did the clutch feel on the last use? How old is the clutch? > >It's > >also possible, but unlikely due to the intermittent nature, that the > >pressure plate itself is failing. > > It seemed like the clutch wanted to disengage before I lifted off > the pedal. > Or it felt like the disengagement point was changing as I lifted off the > pedal. > The clutch has ~20K miles on it. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 10:11:35 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [e36] Rear Camber Correction Arms & Rear Upper Strut Mounts on 7/25/03 3:36 AM, "Clan Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On RUSMs, it would appear that the e46 RUSM with the Z3 reinforcement plate > is the way to go, but Ground Control offers their custom solution (lifetime > guarantee to original purchaser) with urethane bushings. My concern with the > GC solution is unwanted NVH from the urethane bushing. Can anyone comment to > their experience here as well? I've found the E46 RSMs to work fine for street use, and at around $18 list each they're inexpensive. For track or more aggressive driving the Ground Control parts are great and should last forever, but they do transmit more noise. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6607 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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