[uucdigest]         Tuesday, August 12 2003         Volume 03 : Number 6654



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Re: E30 Power Antenna
       [uuc] Re: Dealer experiences (Was E36 software updates)
       [uuc] coolant change issues
       [uuc] Re:  E30 Power Antenna
       RE: [uuc] E34 Electrical Problem
       [uuc] Re:  <E30> M3 springs raise 325i  (!)
       [uuc] looking at 2000 M5

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 11:10:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 Power Antenna

On Tue, 12 Aug 2003, Stan Jackson Jr. wrote:

> installed it in one of the cars.  After removing the broken
> antenna I popped open the case.  Nothing obvious.

 When I looked inside my broken antenna, it looked ok until I got to
the inside of the main drive gear.  The plastic nub where the spring
engages it to turn was broken off.  I don't think you'll see this
until you get it further apart.  I don't think there's a fix or a
replacement part, unless you're exceedingly clever.

- --
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 11:16:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Tan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Dealer experiences (Was E36 software updates)

Since we keep hearing about bad experiences at the
dealers all the time. Let me just be fair and say
something positive about one of them.
6 months ago I lost my radio code and after
disconnecting my battery to do a steering wheel
replacement I was locked out of my radio. I went to
the 2 nearest BMW dealers with the radio SN to ask
them to lookup the code for me. One of them wanted $60
and the other one wanted $50. My conversation with the
SA:
ME: I lost my radio code. Can you please help me look
it up on your computer?
SA: We have to take out the radio with a special tools
and get the SN on the back of the radio. It's going to
take 30min for the job which is $50
Me: I already have the SN on a piece of paper. All you
need to do is type it in the computer in front of you
right here. 
SA: Sorry, can't do. Our policy does not allows us to
do this for free.
ME: So your policy is against helping your customer?
SA: Nope. sorry.
Granted it was not a lot of money. but it was against
my principal to pay $50~$60 to someone to spend 2 mins
to type in a few letter on the computer. Someone on
the list mentioned that Allison would do it for free.
I drove 30 mins to Allsion and just handed them the SN
and got out of there in 5 min and didn't pay a cent.
Now whenever I need some parts I rather drive 30min to
a dealer who is willing to help their customer.

Joe
'98 M3/4

- ------------------
re: E36 software updates + dealer experiences:

     In February '99 I had the crankshaft position
sensor recall 
performed on my E36 //M3.  That included an ECU remap
regarding O2 sensor 
issues which I advised the dealer not to perform as my
ECU was already no 
longer stock.  I should point out that the aftermarket
remap I had made 
a noticeable difference from the initial 6/97 code my
car was delivered 
with.  Also that the recall first was available in
late '98/early '99.
     A few months later, my car was in at the same
dealer for RTAB 
repair under warranty.  When I got my car back, the
engine didn't seem much 
different except I found the redlines had reverted to
stock.  I ran 
some 60 to 80 third gear timings to verify that. 
Better than when the car 
was stock, but on the slower side for the aftermarket
remap.  It turns 
out that Allison BMW, Mountain View, CA, had done the
O2 sensor remap 
with niether my permission nor advising me when I
picked up my car.  
Their sneakiness in attempting to earn a few extra
warranty bucks from 
BMWNA also was shown by them not placing the sticker
under that hood that 
was supposed to be done when the recall was performed.
 Now that "the 
dealer formerly known as Allison" is owned by a
national chain, its not 
even worth passing intestinal methane at.
     So to kill two birds with one piece of silicone,
the first bird 
chirped that the final stock mapping for the //E36 M3
is an improvement 
over earlier burns, is similar to what the aftermarket
tuners will give 
but with less spark advance so that it does not
require 91 octane.  It 
will keep your engine stock if you compete in a class
that does not 
allow the ECU to be remapped.  If you have a '99 //M3
as listed by the 
posting asking about remaps, check your production
date.  I also have a 
sneaky suspicion that the aftermarket remap now in my
//M3 may be same as 
the latest factory remap with just higher redlines and
the spark 
advance bumped up.
     While the second bird tweeted a reminder when
bringing your car in 
for servicing, to specify that nothing else is to be
done to your car 
whether there is cost involved or not, since its
commonplace for dealers 
to do no cost to the customer warranty and recall work
on your BMW 
without asking permission or advising you later, and
under many state's 
laws, that practice is legal if there is no cost to
the customer.
Happy remapping,

'jk


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 11:34:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: David DeBord <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] coolant change issues

- --0-1790693547-1060713292=:29336
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


I replaced my broken radiator drain plug with a new one. I dumped 1 gal of BMW coolant 
in, and it only took about 1/2 gal of distilled water. I assume that having the car on 
a ramp on one side to access the engine drain lug) must have left some liquid inside. 
I filled just past the Kalt fill line. I run the engine for a while with the heat on, 
but no heat comes out. Engine heats up till needle is in middle of temp gauge, like 
usual. Took a short drive & started overheating about 5 minutes later. Stopped to cool 
down but it is holding at about the middle. Start car & turn on heater again & try to 
see if I can get air out of hoses. Heats up real fast. Wait again & try to get home. 
Shut car off at intersections (freaked out the other night traffic!).

OK, what do I do now? How do you get the air out? Can you fill the radiator 
completely? I thought the "fill line" was maximum. Why no heat from heater?

CONFUSED & STRESSED OUT!

d


- --0-1790693547-1060713292=:29336
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV><FONT size=2>
<P>I replaced my broken radiator drain plug with a new one. I dumped 1 gal of BMW 
coolant in, and it only took about 1/2 gal of distilled water. I assume that having 
the car on a ramp on one side to access the engine drain lug) must have left some 
liquid inside. I filled just past the Kalt fill line. I run the engine for a while 
with the heat on, but no heat comes out. Engine heats up till needle is in middle of 
temp gauge, like usual. Took a short drive &amp; started overheating about 5 minutes 
later. Stopped to cool down but it is holding at about the middle. Start car &amp; 
turn on heater again &amp; try to see if I can get air out of hoses. Heats up real 
fast. Wait again &amp; try to get home. Shut car off at intersections (freaked out the 
other night traffic!).</P>
<P>OK, what do I do now? How do you get the air out? Can you fill the radiator 
completely? I thought the "fill line" was maximum. Why no heat from heater?</P>
<P>CONFUSED &amp; STRESSED OUT!</P>
<P>d</P></FONT></DIV>
- --0-1790693547-1060713292=:29336--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 11:38:38 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re:  E30 Power Antenna

Stan, you can buy a new mast for your existing antenna for about $25.  I
got mine from Double 02 Salvage in Hayward, CA  (510-782-2002), but I'm
sure you can get one locally.  Since you have the balky mast out, try some
penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, etc) and see if you can free up
the sticking mast section.  I think you'll find that the problem is not in
the motor.

The only mast lubricant that I've found to work is the factory stuff, which
comes in little use-once-and-throw-away packets.  The other things I've
tried, recommended on various mailing lists, don't last long enough, like
what you said.

HTH,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i, new mast 1 year ago
1991 325iA, gonna need a new mast too

>Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 01:24:57 -0400
>From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] E30 Power Antenna
>
>I've got a pair of 1988 E30 325iX cars.  Both have power antennas that
have
>been balky over the last couple of years.  If one sits too long or gets
>gummed up in the winter, I help the antenna by pulling it up while it is
>trying to rise.  Then I lubricate it well.  This never seems to last,
>however.  Recently, both antennas decided that only three sections were
>going to go up.  This time, no amount of pulling or lubricating could
>convince the antenna to fully rise on either car (I think it is the third
>section that won't go up).  I happened to have one spare antenna, so I
>installed it in one of the cars.  After removing the broken antenna I
popped
>open the case.  Nothing obvious.
>
>Is there likely to be a simple fix?  Is it worth the time to delve into
one
>or both of these broken antennas further?  I've seen new ones for over
$100
>(gulp), but I'm sure they sell fairly inexpensively at junkyards.  Attempt
>to repair or just junk them?
>
>Any recommendations for a better antenna lubricant?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Stan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 14:44:25 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] E34 Electrical Problem

My 91 525i had this same malady 3 months ago. The piece is identified in Bently's as 
the fusable link. I called the local MB dealer to see if they had one on a Sat that 
fit(they did), since the nearest BMW dealer was 50+ miles away. They were very nice 
about it and gave me the fuse. Im wondering how many other 13 year old components will 
be showing their age soon?
Steve

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 00:45:22 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E34 Electrical Problem

The 80 amp inline fuse at the battery is bad.  It's cracked, won't look bad
until you undo the screws securing it, at which point, it will fall into two
pieces.

It's in an inline holder, about 12 inches from the positive terminal of the
battery, on the smaller of the two positive cables.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve & Barb
> Conner
> We have a 91 525i which has recently developed a bit of an electrical
> problem.  All of a sudden, the following items do NOT work:  radio,
> power seats, moon roof, power door locks, power windows, OBC driver and
> center console display.  All fuses are OK and appear to have 12 volts on
> them when the ignition is on.  This is too many things not working at
> once to not be related.  Can anyone give me a hint as to what might be
> going on?  Does anyone know anything about a component called
> 'electronic power protection relay'?  It shows up on several pages of
> the schematic and might be related, who knows.  Thanks for any tips.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 14:02:15 -0500
From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re:  <E30> M3 springs raise 325i  (!)

My '86 325i  has only two options, A/C and power sunroof.  I am assuming
at this point that my car must weigh very closely to what yours
measured.  I think the main weight savings is in the small steel bumpers
with no shocks, manual windows/locks and no ABS.

Unfortunately my car does not have the factory M-Tech suspension.  The
rear bar on this car is 13.5mm and the front bar is 20mm, yes a strange
sized rear bar that seemed to only be on the early Euro "i" motored
cars.  I did look up the spring codes and did not find anything
particularly special about them, no mention of M-tech or anything.  The
original shocks on the car were Boge's.

Thanks for the good info.

Matt


Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 00:12:46 -0400
From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re:  <E30> M3 springs raise 325i  (!)

FWIW my 85 euro 2 door 325 weighs 2480.
Dealer A/C
Dealer CL
Sunroof
5 spd
w/ spare and 25 liters of fuel.

You may have factory sports(M-Tech) suspension.  Check the rear bar for
14.5mm
dia.  Most bushings have a date code so you can tell if it's original.
My car also has the 1" shorter rear Bilstein shocks that came w/ the
M-Tech
suspension. Lastly check the spring codes since there out.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 09:03:01 -1000
From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] looking at 2000 M5

hey gruppe, i'll be looking at a 2000 M5 lease return later
this week...no idea on the mileage or condition just yet,
but dealer said they're gonna make it a CPO car (i know, i
know, big deal)...anything to look out for???  any
defects/recalls i should be aware for this year M5???  any
and all help/info greatly appreciated...thanx in advance!

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6654
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