[uucdigest] Tuesday, August 19 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6675
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] M3 99% ordinary? Depends. Re: [uuc] slightly OT: autocross workers [uuc] re:OT autocross workers re: [uuc] autocross workers: [uuc] Sunroof Fix [uuc] Need info about torque wrench selection... [uuc] Spam-er, marketing e-mail from BMW NA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 18:05:07 -0400 (EDT) From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M3 99% ordinary? Depends. Tim, I don't want to speak for Neil, because I know he can do a better job than I can anyway, but... I would imagine what he meant about an M-car being mostly ordinary is that when a tech goes to work on one, if he has the specs, torque on a bolt is torque on a bolt, and (for the most part) it's righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. The "differences" must simply be recognized by the tech. Maybe there's a screw somewhere on an S-engine that can't be tightened to the extent that a similar screw on an M-engine is without causing some sort of catastrophy. If that's the case, the tech had better know it. But as long as he takes the proverbial second to think about it, he should be OK. - - John _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 15:10:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] slightly OT: autocross workers Hi Jay, This is how Golden Gate Chapter runs the autox. We usually have about 50 drivers. We divide the drivers into 3 groups (4 if there is more drivers). Group 1 would drive first, while group 3 works. Then the next heat would have group 2 drive and group 1 work. Then finally last heat would be group 3 drive and group 2 work. Each heat would have 2 practice laps, then 4 timed runs. To make sure the drivers do their work, we have to be harsh. The rule is if you skip out on your work, then you are banned from future autox's. I don't remember how long the ban would be in affect. The incentive for staying 'til the end are fun runs. Usually about 4 runs (depending on time). Good Luck. Mike __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 19:42:10 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re:OT autocross workers Jay asks about how to get autoX participants to do their work helping out and not sneak off early :) At our local Motorsport Club of Ottawa autocrosses (~50 or so cars on a typical day), the way it works is this: - -everybody has a number, the first run of the day is picked randomly, and then you just go up incrementally for run order (all classes mixed together) - -immediately after every run, you must report for flagging duty and your name is checked off.. if you don't report, your time does not count - -flaggging stations are layed out sort of around the perimeter.. 2 people per station.. when 2 people show up for flagging duty (~after every 2 cars ran the course), they start at station 1.. when the next two show up, station1 people go to station2, and the new people take over station1. Then when the next 2 people show up, everybody shifts. - -in reality, everybody doesn't shift at once.. it's more like there is a couple of extra 2people groups moving around the course at all times, bumping people out of their stations - -There is typically someone at the start gate, at stop box, then 7 or 8 other stations.. so after every run, you spend about 20 mins wandering from station to station around the course - -with about 50 cars and about 1 minute courses, you still have half an hour of 'free' time between runs This method seems to work pretty well - a few people always try to scam the system, but overall, if you want your time to be counted, you have to help. chris pawlowicz '99 z3 '89 325i '74 2002 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 16:50:49 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: re: [uuc] autocross workers: re: [uuc] autocross workers: When given the choice, I preferred afternoon autocross sessions rather than morning because the track surface was generally warmer, thus more traction to be had. Also I could watch more runs and get more course walking in to prepare for my laps. I can assure any neophytes to autocrossing that one can never walk the course too much. If there's a section of course you're not sure of, stopwatching the different lines some cars take can tell you which is faster, not always what looks or intuitively seems like it would be. Choose the section you want to work based on what part of the course you want to study the most. Observing the tire pressure and suspension adjustments(especially minor toe out changes) known competitors make between runs can also help you have your car better dialed in for track conditions and temperature before your first run. So showing up and working early then doing your runs in the afternoon can be a decided competitive advantage over those who want to show up, do their runs, and leave the event. Wrt entrants not doing their work assignments, I recall at some regions in SCCA, if you didn't work, then your times were listed as DNF. When you do have a sweltering day and workers are roasting in the sun, sometimes a car bringing cold beverages (non-alcoholic) to the workers will be great for morale. What cha gonna do when your tire smoke is blue and you know it don't cone easy? If your tires whine then its time to realign and you know you won't cone easy. Try a smaller steering wheel diameter, and you can slalom cones like Shakespeare's unrhymed iambic pentameter. (Sorry Ringo), 'jk ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 19:06:23 -0500 From: "David Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Sunroof Fix Several people were interested in what was wrong with my sunroof and how I repaired it. I am working from memory since I didn't record each step of the process. As one person stated, the Bentley offered nothing other than adjusting the height of the panel to align with the roof, and synchronizing the closing position of the panel. I think it said that you were on your own if you needed more than a small adjustment of the roof. Overall, it was not very hard to remove, repair and reinstall. It took two people to get it down and out of the car, and to reinstall it. The roof is in a 95 M3 coupe. The problem was with the sliding interior panel. It did not come forward when the roof was closed from the cocked rear position. When the roof was then fully opened, nothing would come forward. Both the outer roof panel and the sliding panel were stuck in the open position. First remove the panel that exposes the motor. Unscrew all the grab handles and sun visors. The mirror lights pop out, disconnect the wires from the visors and the lights. I unbolted the shoulder belt anchor and popped off the plastic a pillar panels. I did not remove the front and rear pillar covers, but unfastened them and pulled them down enough to let the headliner come out. Remove the interior seal around the sunroof opening, but I did not remove the door seal to get the headliner out, I could run my finger behind the headliner and it came out as my finger moved along the seal. I took the rear side window interior seals off, which pulled off easily. The headliner then came out. This all took less than 30 minutes and was pretty intuitive. The sunroof cassette is held in by a row of torx screws across the front and down both sides. Before taking the cassette down, remove the motor/drive assembly three screws and all the electrical connections. Disconnect the roof drain hoses at the 4 corners of the cassette. Take out the torx screws and let the cassette down. Before removing the last 4 corners, get someone to help let it down and out of the car. The problem with mine was in the sliders that the interior panel ride in. There are small plastic clips that link with the exterior panel as it opens and they had broken, plus there was an alignment plastic slider that had run out of the back of the track which would not let anything go forward. Here is what I learned at the BMW parts counter, and I also talked with the mechanic who fixes sunroofs for the dealership. There are three service kits. One is a set of sliders for the interior panel for about $60. It has all the plastic parts that you need as well as the sliders that pop into the track where the panel rides. This was what I needed - lucky me. The second service kit is the complete cassette for $650, which is the most common repair for ailing roofs. If there is any problem with the roof cocking when it opens and closes or other problems with the cables, it is time for the cassette replacement. It also looks like the cassette would be pretty easy to break. The third is the motor and drive assembly (I don't know the cost). The only tricky part was getting the panel forward. I worked the cables until I got it forward enough to remove the outer roof panel It comes out by removing one torx screw along the inside edge of the top panel about 3 inches back from the front. It is the same screw that the Bentley manual describes for adjusting the height at the front of the panel. There are three bolts at the back, which are obvious, and also described in the Bentley manual. I installed the new sliders in the track for the interior panel, epoxied a small aluminum strip in the back of the cassette to repair a point where the slider broke through a stop at the back. The metal top panel must be off to get the interior panel back in. I could not find a way to test anything before putting the cassette back in the car. That bothered me, but it seemed to be easier to reinstall the cassette than to figure out how to test it. I was lucky because everything worked the first time. It is best if the top is in the fully closed position before removing the motor and the cassette. If it is closed, don't move the cables. You can move the interior panel, but don't move the outer panel with the cables. It saves time when it is put back in; otherwise, you have to operate the top with the switch until the roof closes, and then take the motor/drive assembly down and cycle the motor back to the automatic shutoff point for the closed position and then reinstall the motor. This process is described in the Bentley manual. Put everything back together that you took out. It was fortunate for me that it was the sliders. Like I say, I am writing this a month and a half after doing the work. It was not too difficult to repair and I love having my sunroof operating again. I couldn't have gone too long in the open position. Email me if you need more information. Dave Miller 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 21:41:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Howard Siegel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Need info about torque wrench selection... I'm getting ready to pickup a set of torque wrenches so I can do some work on my '02 E46, and wanted to get the groups advice. 1) What range of wrenches should I be looking to pick up? That is, will a set that includes just a 2-29 Nm (2-21 ft-lb) and a 17-139 Nm (10-100 ft-lb) wrench be enough for most weekend mechanic type of work? Or should I go for a "bigger" second wrench (34-210 Nm, 20-150 ft-lb) or get a 3rd wrench that goes up to to 348 Nm (250 ft-lb)? 2) How do SK and KD tools in general, and torque wrenches in particular, compare? Any other good brands in the same price range as SK and KD? - -- hsiegel~at~pobox~dot~com <*> Netcom Class of '93, RIP Netcom! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 21:53:54 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Spam-er, marketing e-mail from BMW NA I get this very nicely formatted e-mail from BMW NA today, promoting the 3-series generally and its engines in particular. It read, in part, "BMW's silky-smooth engines are some of the most legendary, award-winning powerplants ever available to the public. For example, the 745i's 325-horsepower V-8 was named "International Engine of the Year"1. by a panel of 40 automotive experts, and BMW has been named to the "Top Ten Engines" list in Ward's AutoWorld2. 14 times. Each engine delivers smooth power throughout the rpm range, quick acceleration and a rewarding, throaty growl. "For decades, BMW has been famous for making what are arguably the most thrilling, smoothest and efficient inline six-cylinder engines in the world. It is this inline six-cylinder engine that has made the BMW 3 Series legendary. Available in 2.5 and 3.0-liter displacements, 3 Series engines consistently outperform many other manufacturers� larger engines. BMW�s inline six is also a perennial favorite among the automotive press, leading Road & Track to conclude that the 3.0-liter is, "...a sweetheart of an engine. Its best attribute is that its power delivery is felt instantaneously almost anywhere in the rpm spectrum." __________________ What got me curious is not so much that, as far as I can dimly recall, BMW is the ONLY maker currently selling in-line six engines (correct? everyone else has moved to a Vee configuration, right?), but rather that BMW mentions that its legendary inline six-cylinder engine is available in 2.5 and 3.0-liter displacements -- and totally neglects to include the M3's 3246cc motor. I presume it's because M3s are still selling (relatively) well, and the 330 and 325 need a bit of promotion? Just some idle speculation on a slow day.... vty, - --Dennis ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6675 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
