[uucdigest] Saturday, August 23 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6692
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] NOx maximums in CA--need data [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating [uuc] E36 stock rev limiter [uuc] E36 - fuel pump relay not actuating, help! Re: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating Re: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner Re: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:34:03 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] NOx maximums in CA--need data Vehicle emissions were arbitrarily set based on non controlled vehicles, and again rather arbitrarily lowered over time based on what is achievable. Running the engine in a lower gear will reduce the NOx ppm. Converting g/mi to ppm is difficult because it varies with the volume of exhaust. Any car with a 3 way catalyst and feedback oxygen sensor can achieve nearly zeros in the 240 second long state administered inspection and maintenance procedure (IM 240). In all cases the catalyst must be hot. High NOx is caused be a lean mixture which leaves excess oxygen in the catalyst which stops the NOx => N2 + O2 reduction reaction. Gary Derian > I'm in the process of gathering data to determine if the current CA maximums > for NOx are unrealistic for the M30 engine. BMW designed these engines to be > low on HC and CO during the 80's, probably resulting in higher NOx levels > when measured today. > > I've been going over my past smog tests and looking at old emails where > others have posted their smog results over the years, and it looks like a > lot of 80's BMW's with the M30 engine may not be > capable of meeting these the new NOx maximums. If you passed a couple of > years ago, take a look at your numbers and compare them against the new > maximums. > > For the 1987, the NOx maximums are as follows (Both the maximums for CO and > HC have remained the same): > > Year 2001 > NOx Max at 15 mph 1020 ppm > NOx Max at 25 mph 880 ppm > > Year 2003 > NOx Max at 15 mph 767 ppm > NOx Max at 25 mph 706 ppm > > CA started testing for NOx only 6-7 years ago, and the measurements are in > parts per million (PPM). The EPA and CA Air Resources Board new car > emissions standards that I could find for cars manufactured in the 80's are > in grams per mile (GPM). I could not locate specific information by car > manufacturers > or models. > > My question is, does anyone know if there is a formula to convert PPM > measurements for the CA tests done at 15mph and 25mph into a GPM quantity? > I've been checking the internet and have a couple of emails out looking for > this info, but no luck yet. I also need to know what test the GPM maximums > that the EPA imposed on cars manufactured in the 80's were based on (the > information on the history of the Motor Vehicle Emissions Federal Test > Procedure that was in effect in the 80's doesn't seem to be available on the > US EPA website or at the CA ARB or CA BAR websites). > > Also, if anyone comes across any data that shows the levels of NOx, HC and > CO that cars in the 80's were producing when new or a few years old, please > let me know. > > Gene M. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:09:39 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed I was replacing the factory rubber lines on my 95 M3 and had an issue with one of the rear hard lines. The line is #11 in the following pic: http://home.comcast.net/~tom_melton/ETKpic.jpg Even though I was using the correct tool for the job I had to finally use vice grips to get this side apart. The driver side came aprat perfectly. Anyway, the ETK does not list a prt number for this line, just labels it "pipe". I searched the full ETK for "pipe" and I got the following number: 34 32 1 153 653 listed as PIPE, M10/M10 - 205mm The line is likely close to 205mm long, so this could be the part, can anyone verify this? Brett? Thanks in advance... Tom Melton 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 20:59:42 -0400 From: "C. Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner Is there any danger in removing the small exhaust heat shield that is in the area of the oxygen sensor on an E36? I noticed while I was under there today that this piece was the source of some serious rattling. Before I put enough thought into it to realize the O2 sensor was on the top side, I started to cut the thing off. Then I figured things out and wondered if there is any potential damage to the sensor without this heat shield. I wouldn't think so, since it's sticking right into the exhaust anyway, but I guess it's probably there for a reason. I'd also like to replace my cam chain tensioner in the next week or so. I'll confess to not exaiming the Bentley thoroughly yet, but I looked close enough to see that they don't address this as a stand-alone operation. I'm assuming the valve cover needs to be removed - anyone want to comment on the approximate time required for this operation? Any items of note that might be useful? Anything else I should do while I'm in there? Thanks, Chris B. <---- with quite a few new scrapes '94 325i <---- with a new fuel filter ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 20:26:09 -0500 From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating I am trying to solve an overheating problem in a 1990 325iS. I have changed the water pump, thermostat and flushed the entire cooling system, including the engine block. The only thing I haven't changed or verified to be 'truly' cleaned out is the radiator. I have had the radiator out twice and each time I flushed it with a garden hose. It didn't seem to have any trouble flowing all of the water from the hose. I am suspicious of the radiator because the lower hose never seems to get warm. Has anyone had a similar situation, or can anyone confirm that the radiator might indeed be the problem even though it appears to flow water pretty well? I would sure appreciate any ideas. Steve Conner Kokomo, IN ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:28:3 -0500 From: "M Kittock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 stock rev limiter When does the stock rev limiter cut in ('96 328i)? I assumed at 6500rpm or within a hundred rpm. At the finish timing lights for an auto-x today, after a couple of runs, I peeked at the tach just after passing the finish. I had guessed I was near redline, but found it just touching 7000rpm. While I bought it used in '98 I have no reason to believe it has aftermarket software. Is this normal tolerance on the limiter cut in? I recall on my 944t it cut in pretty close to redline. I really don't hit limiters often, rarely, really... only a couple times on the 944t and would have today on the 328i. But I do want to know if its working or if I don't have a limiter - peace of mind on autoX courses that I don't have to watch the tach to protect the motor... Thanks! Mark Kittock '96 328i Sport Pkg; many mods <-- but stock software... '00 Durango '97 Contour SE (gone) '86 CRX Si (gone) '86 944 turbo (gone) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:57:24 -0700 From: "Sumant Jayaraman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E36 - fuel pump relay not actuating, help! Gentlefolk, I think I will count myself lucky to have this failure at home... The car: 94 325, 2.8 long block (dont ask), stock everything else. I pull in just fine after a long ride with the toddler and all is well. However, 2 hours later the car just wont run - sounds like it is starving for fuel. Turned out it was a lucky guess. After some poking around I figured that the Main relay was OK, but the Fuel relay was refusing to turn on. Bad relay, right? Further poking around showed that the DME didnt seem to want to turn it on. (I looked at whatever pin it is that is supposed to go to 0V - it stays at 12V). I confirmed that it is not a bad realy by swapping in a known good relay from the other car (also E36), and reproducing the same failure. The car however ran fine when I bypassed the relay. So, I suspect a bad DME, as far as fuel pump relay functionality is concerned. I just wanted a sanity check before I do something silly like go hunting for a used DME: 1) Is it correct logic to assume that a harness discontinuity can be the only other source of this problem? 2) Anything else that I should first look at? 3) Is there someway to confirm that the DME is bad? Thanks much Sumant 94 325 2.8 (Zero emission vehicle) 92 325 alive. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 22:54:31 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating Did you bleed the system? There is a bleed screw in the top of the thermostat housing. When you had the radiator removed, did you clean the fins? A power washer does wonders. If you fill the system with the bleed screw open, then close it when coolant dribbles out, you should be good to go. Gary Derian > I am trying to solve an overheating problem in a 1990 325iS. I have > changed the water pump, thermostat and flushed the entire cooling > system, including the engine block. The only thing I haven't changed or > verified to be 'truly' cleaned out is the radiator. I have had the > radiator out twice and each time I flushed it with a garden hose. It > didn't seem to have any trouble flowing all of the water from the hose. > I am suspicious of the radiator because the lower hose never seems to > get warm. Has anyone had a similar situation, or can anyone confirm > that the radiator might indeed be the problem even though it appears to > flow water pretty well? I would sure appreciate any ideas. > > Steve Conner > Kokomo, IN > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 22:51:43 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed Click on the number in the diagram and more part numbers show up. It is a pipe, 205mm long and the part number34-32-1-153-163 was superceded by part number 34-32-6-755-550. Gary Derian > I was replacing the factory rubber lines on my 95 M3 and had an issue with one of the rear hard lines. The line is #11 in the following pic: > > http://home.comcast.net/~tom_melton/ETKpic.jpg > > Even though I was using the correct tool for the job I had to finally use vice grips to get this side apart. The driver side came aprat perfectly. > > Anyway, the ETK does not list a prt number for this line, just labels it "pipe". I searched the full ETK for "pipe" and I got the following number: > > 34 32 1 153 653 listed as PIPE, M10/M10 - 205mm > > The line is likely close to 205mm long, so this could be the part, can anyone verify this? Brett? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tom Melton > 95 M3 > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 22:55:58 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner That shield holds heat in. The EGO will be fine without it. Gary Derian > Is there any danger in removing the small exhaust heat shield that is in the > area of the oxygen sensor on an E36? I noticed while I was under there > today that this piece was the source of some serious rattling. Before I put > enough thought into it to realize the O2 sensor was on the top side, I > started to cut the thing off. Then I figured things out and wondered if > there is any potential damage to the sensor without this heat shield. I > wouldn't think so, since it's sticking right into the exhaust anyway, but I > guess it's probably there for a reason. > > I'd also like to replace my cam chain tensioner in the next week or so. > I'll confess to not exaiming the Bentley thoroughly yet, but I looked close > enough to see that they don't address this as a stand-alone operation. I'm > assuming the valve cover needs to be removed - anyone want to comment on the > approximate time required for this operation? Any items of note that might > be useful? Anything else I should do while I'm in there? > > Thanks, > Chris B. <---- with quite a few new scrapes > '94 325i <---- with a new fuel filter > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 23:11:20 -0400 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed Gary, Many thanks! I learned something about the ETK! - -Tom >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 08/23/03 10:51PM >>> Click on the number in the diagram and more part numbers show up. It is a pipe, 205mm long and the part number34-32-1-153-163 was superceded by part number 34-32-6-755-550. Gary Derian > I was replacing the factory rubber lines on my 95 M3 and had an issue with one of the rear hard lines. The line is #11 in the following pic: > > http://home.comcast.net/~tom_melton/ETKpic.jpg > > Even though I was using the correct tool for the job I had to finally use vice grips to get this side apart. The driver side came aprat perfectly. > > Anyway, the ETK does not list a prt number for this line, just labels it "pipe". I searched the full ETK for "pipe" and I got the following number: > > 34 32 1 153 653 listed as PIPE, M10/M10 - 205mm > > The line is likely close to 205mm long, so this could be the part, can anyone verify this? Brett? > > Thanks in advance... > > Tom Melton > 95 M3 > > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6692 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . 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