[uucdigest] Sunday, August 24 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6693
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Intermittent RE: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed RE: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed [uuc] Re: Hard Brake Line Needed Re: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating [uuc] Newbie M3 Re: [uuc] E36 stock rev limiter Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 23:47:48 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Luxury Racecars Andrew Thomas wrote: > Well, the lack of weight has probably the biggest impact, and the 17 bhp > increase is felt more as an improvement in response rather than outright > shove. the change to the airbox/throttle system should also be responsible for some of this. > The balance and grip is supposedly as good as it gets, and the only > negative - for some people - is that the car is still "only" a 3-series, and > a car this good should really have "GT3" or "Stradale" written on the back. a guy I run lapping days with recently spent some time in a Stradale & the Gallardo (I know, tough life, huh ?) and said the Stradale was simply amazing. he's not had a chance to sample the GT3 yet (don't think anyone in the US outside of PCNA people have, since they held cars at the port due to some sort of emssions problem) but I suspect the Strad is still the daddy for the time being. I don't see the GT3-RS being able to up the ante enough either, tho the rumoured rwd SV-alike Gallardo sounds interesting. I'm waiting for Chris Harris to get his Gallardo & see how that goes... > Odd point of view, although I sort of understand. I wonder how good a > regular M3 on warmed-up Cup Sports would be. probably about the same as most people's track cars here in the US, the Cup Sports aren't any stickier than fresh Kumho's IIRC, certainly not as sticky as fresh Hoosiers. > Likewise. A Radial XTR3 for me, though, and a > complementary all-red-meat diet. I think the Radical might be almost too much car, tho the prospect of functional aero is amusing. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:06:54 -0700 From: marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Oil Leak. Intermittent A bit of a puzzle. Car is a 95 E36 M3, only used for BMWCCA club racing. In-between races the car sits on jack stands and I start it about once a week to keep things lubed. I'll run it until the idle oil pressure goes to <30 psi or the oil temp gauge comes off the peg. I'm running 50wt redline. The problem is that there is a puddle of oil under the car (in the garage) right below the junction of the bellhousing to the engine. I've actually crawled underneath the car while it's running to see try and see where the oil is coming from. Nothing while it's running. It's as if someone is going into the garage and dumping oil on the floor in the middle of the night when the car isn't running. My first guess is the rear main seal is leaking (clutch isn't slipping). However, during a race weekend the car does not leak at all! I put a piece of cardboard under the engine to catch what I thought would be a mess of oil. Not a drop of oil on the cardboard. Anyone have any thoughts where the mystery oil is coming from? My guess is that some seal is leaking during the down time, but that the heat generated by race temps expand the seal and the leak goes away. Is that a behavior of an old rear main seal? Marco 95 M3 IP #196 sponsored by www.rennwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 23:23:03 -0700 From: Steve Walsh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed It's funny you say that.. A few years ago when I was in Germany for the 'Ring School, we visited the factory in Munich. As we past one of the stations, the assemblers were installing the rear brakelines with these cool racheting flarenut wrenches. The guy who was installing the passenger-side line gave each line an *extra* tweek...and in unison we yelled "Thats HIM !!! He's the one !!" - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:09:39 -0400 >From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed >I was replacing the factory rubber lines on my 95 M3 and had an issue with one of the rear hard lines. The line is #11 in the following pic: >http://home.comcast.net/~tom_melton/ETKpic.jpg >Even though I was using the correct tool for the job I had to finally use vice grips to get this side apart. The driver side came aprat perfectly. >Anyway, the ETK does not list a prt number for this line, just labels it "pipe". I searched the full ETK for "pipe" and I got the following number: >34 32 1 153 653 listed as PIPE, M10/M10 - 205mm >The line is likely close to 205mm long, so this could be the part, can anyone verify this? Brett? >Thanks in advance... >Tom Melton >95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 10:43:45 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Hard Brake Line Needed That is the correct part. It has superseded to PN 34 32 6 755 550, which is a straight piece of pipe with the correct fittings on each end. You get to bend it to fit. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Melton > I was replacing the factory rubber lines on my 95 M3 and had an > issue with one of the rear hard lines. The line is #11 in the > following pic: > http://home.comcast.net/~tom_melton/ETKpic.jpg > Anyway, the ETK does not list a prt number for this line, just > labels it "pipe". I searched the full ETK for "pipe" and I got > the following number: > 34 32 1 153 653 listed as PIPE, M10/M10 - 205mm > The line is likely close to 205mm long, so this could be the > part, can anyone verify this? Brett? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 10:05:20 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Hard Brake Line Needed on 8/23/03 10:11 PM, "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I was replacing the factory rubber lines on my 95 M3 and had an issue with one > of the rear hard lines. The line is #11 in the following pic: > > http://home.comcast.net/~tom_melton/ETKpic.jpg > > Even though I was using the correct tool for the job I had to finally use vice > grips to get this side apart. The driver side came aprat perfectly. > > Anyway, the ETK does not list a prt number for this line, just labels it > "pipe". I searched the full ETK for "pipe" and I got the following number: > > 34 32 1 153 653 listed as PIPE, M10/M10 - 205mm > > The line is likely close to 205mm long, so this could be the part, can anyone > verify this? Brett? Tom, The part number will come up on the ETK. You have to click on it, at which point you'll find there are two options listed: 34 32 1 153 653 (up to 8/00) 34 32 6 755 550 However the issue you're going to find is that a few years ago BMW stopped supplying hard brake lines like this as pre-formed parts. What you'll get instead is a straight length, flared at either end, with captive fittings. You'll have to bend it yourself to match your existing hard line (hope you haven't trashed it). This is evidenced by the ETK listing the same part number for each side, even though they're really mirror images of one another. Because of the tight radius compound curves and short length, forming the correct bend by hand isn't all that easy. You'll need a tube bender that can handle a small radius, and even then you'll end up finishing it freehand. I found the best way to form the line was to have both the bracket and the original line on the workbench, then roughly form the new line to match. Then I tweaked it by hand until it fit correctly in the bracket. It might not hurt to have an extra, just in case. Here are some tricks that have worked for me when trying to undo these hard line fittings. 1) Apply a first quality penetrating oil, such as Kroil or W�rth, and let it sit for a while. 2) Have a variety of wrenches available. I've found that both regular and flare wrenches have enough slop in them that they have a tendency to round off the fitting. Instead I sometimes use a regular adjustable wrench, because it can be tightened down to fit the nut with no play. 3) There's not much room to get a wrench on this little S-shaped hard line while it's in place. Instead undo the flexible hose at the body connection, unbolt the bracket from the trailing arm, unbolt the caliper, and then do the rest on your workbench. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 08:35:55 -0700 From: Peter du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating Make sure that the fill amount of coolant is close to the specified amount. Open the heater valve during the flush/fill, keep it open for the drive-'til-engine-hot test drive. Why did you flush the system? (I'm assuming a cooling system cleaner was used) Was there evidence of fouling/corrosion? If there was none then an internally obstructed radiator is an unlikely cause. How do you know the engine is overheating? Is the temp gauge displaying an accurate temp? BTW, based on my experience, if BMW coolant is used, corrosion does not occur. Peter du Bois [Steve Conner] wrote: >Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 20:26:09 -0500 >From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] M20 Engine Overheating > >I am trying to solve an overheating problem in a 1990 325iS. I have >changed the water pump, thermostat and flushed the entire cooling >system, including the engine block. The only thing I haven't changed or >verified to be 'truly' cleaned out is the radiator. I have had the >radiator out twice and each time I flushed it with a garden hose. It >didn't seem to have any trouble flowing all of the water from the hose. >I am suspicious of the radiator because the lower hose never seems to >get warm. Has anyone had a similar situation, or can anyone confirm >that the radiator might indeed be the problem even though it appears to >flow water pretty well? I would sure appreciate any ideas. > >Steve Conner >Kokomo, IN > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 08:41:56 -0700 From: Peter du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Newbie M3 Took the plunge and bagged the '97 M3 last week. Many thanks to those that answered the pre-plunge questions. Have not received the manuals from the PO, thus I need to know the lug bolt torque. I suspect that the present torque of 105 ft-lbs is too high. Thanks, Peter du Bois ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 19:42:58 +0100 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 stock rev limiter Mark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: "When does the stock rev limiter cut in ('96 328i)? I assumed at 6500rpm or within a hundred rpm." I don't have one but if it's any help, a handful of UK mags tested the 328i when it came out and IIRC found it at around 6,750 rpm (6,900 rpm indicated in the case of Car magazine). If your tach is but a couple of hundred rpm optimistic (quite possible, given the noted variation in the accuracy of other guages) you might get to within a hair's breadth of 7,000 rpm without the limiter cutting in. Andy T ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 14:52:14 -0400 From: "C. Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner It's always nice to get the answer you want to hear. Thanks. I don't think my intermediate zip-tie situation was going to work for long anyway. Chris B. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 10:55 PM Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Heat shield, cam chain tensioner > That shield holds heat in. The EGO will be fine without it. > > Gary Derian > > > > Is there any danger in removing the small exhaust heat shield that is in > the > > area of the oxygen sensor on an E36? I noticed while I was under there > > today that this piece was the source of some serious rattling. Before I > put > > enough thought into it to realize the O2 sensor was on the top side, I > > started to cut the thing off. Then I figured things out and wondered if > > there is any potential damage to the sensor without this heat shield. I > > wouldn't think so, since it's sticking right into the exhaust anyway, but > I > > guess it's probably there for a reason. > > > > I'd also like to replace my cam chain tensioner in the next week or so. > > I'll confess to not exaiming the Bentley thoroughly yet, but I looked > close > > enough to see that they don't address this as a stand-alone operation. > I'm > > assuming the valve cover needs to be removed - anyone want to comment on > the > > approximate time required for this operation? Any items of note that > might > > be useful? Anything else I should do while I'm in there? > > > > Thanks, > > Chris B. <---- with quite a few new scrapes > > '94 325i <---- with a new fuel filter > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6693 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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