[uucdigest] Tuesday, August 26 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6701
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] E34 alarm RE: [uuc] E34 alarm RE: [uuc] Big Six Oil? Re: [uuc] e36 oil Re: [uuc] RE: Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... [uuc] Anyone Have the ETK Handy? [uuc] Compression Vs. Leakdown testing? Re: [uuc] Big Six Oil? RE: [uuc] Anyone Have the ETK Handy? Re: [uuc] Compression Vs. Leakdown testing? Re: [uuc] Big Six Oil? [uuc] e34 540i Suspension Woes RE: [uuc] Anyone Have the ETK Handy? Re: [uuc] e34 540i Suspension Woes ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 12:32:14 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E34 alarm The factory alarm horn on my M5 looks like a normal horn and is mounted below the windshield near the heater air inlet. That style can't be changed via a dip switch. Gary Derian > I finally got the factory alarm/keyless entry working on my '95 525i but it > has the saddest sounding OBC horn sound and not the high chirping sound I > was expecting. I checked the manual and discovered that I could just change > the DIP switch to get a different sound. I pulled everything back apart > flipped the switch and still have the horn and not the chirp. Was this an > extra option to have the siren added? Any thoughts? > > -Steve Nash > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 13:19:49 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E34 alarm The E34 came with the system wired into the OBC horn. Don't select the siren setting in the control unit, while using the horn, or you'll burn up the unit. You'll need to source an alarm siren and install it in place of the OBC horn. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve Nash > I finally got the factory alarm/keyless entry working on my '95 > 525i but it > has the saddest sounding OBC horn sound and not the high chirping sound I > was expecting. I checked the manual and discovered that I could > just change > the DIP switch to get a different sound. I pulled everything back apart > flipped the switch and still have the horn and not the chirp. Was this an > extra option to have the siren added? Any thoughts? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:37:23 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] Big Six Oil? John, On my E23 I've used 10W30 Mobil1 since I bought it at 40K miles. It now has 216K and runs very well (idle sucks but that's another story). Note, Mobil1 now has a 5W40 oil with the black screw top. I haven't looked up the Viscosity Index but that's a wide range good for a lot of climates or driving styles. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 13:36:10 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] e36 oil 15W-50 is good down to zero F. Just warm the engine carefully. 0W-40 is very good for high performance work, also. Gary Derian > Howdy, > > Since there are some oil questions... > > For a '93 325is, the book recommends 15w-40. I couldn't seem to find that > weight in anything other than some truck oil (Mobil Delvac or something > like that?), so I ended up going with Mobil-1 15w50. > > What's the right answer here? I dunno what the PO ran, but the oil > pressure (aftermarket guage) certainly seems to be a bit higher with the > 15w50 mobil-1... > > I think the winter oil recommendation was fine. 5w30? 10w30? Both are > available... > > Mark > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 13:03:44 -0500 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... Another thing I was wondering about. Say someone else rear ends the same not-repaired car. Could not the driver of the 2nd at fault car claim that since the car was not properly repaired then they are not liable for any damages? I mean if the energy absorbing "shocks" under the bumper cover were blown and not fixed, then how can the 2nd driver be responsible for the damage to the car? If the shocks had been replaced, then perhaps there would have been no damage in the 2nd accident. Of maybe have to fix it back to the previously tore up state - but certainly not have to foot the bill to make it "like new". I wonder about this when I see these relatively late-model cars on the road with what appears to be "old" damage on them. I guess they collected and pocketed the money. Heck, couldn't you drive around with a tore up back end on your car and stop short all the time? With cash pay-outs you could quit your daytime job and just live off all the insurance money? :-) The same thing comes to mind when I see folks riding around without the mandated seat belts on - or some of these kids who take off their airbag steering wheels and replace them with some trick "racing" steering wheel. Even if the accident is "my" fault, if they have removed the airbags or are not wearing seat belts should "I" be held liable? At least there should be a limit on the liability, don't you think? A lot of the SUV roll over deaths involve folks tossed from the vehicle. If they had been wearing a belt they may have walked away. So should we let the tire and SUV makers off the hook a little bit because these folks chose not to utilize a key safety device? Just random musings :-) Dennis 330i At 09:47 AM 08/26/2003 -0500, you wrote: >I see your point that asking for a cash payout changes the dynamic in >negotiating with the insurance company, but I don't think it has much >bearing on what's "fair." >Whether or not the car is actually repaired does not change the extent of >damage, does it? > >I also pay much more than I would prefer to for insurance of many types -- >auto, homeowners, malpractice, etc. Insurance fraud no doubt plays a huge >role in driving up rates, but I hardly see how this case qualifies... > >rss ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 11:53:26 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Anyone Have the ETK Handy? I have a disk labeled ETK, but I've been unable to install it. Here's my question for anyone who has a minute to plug in a part number. I have a 3.91:1 limited slip diff which supposedly came out of an E30, and looks a lot like the 3.73:1 LSD in my car. I'm replacing the side seals. I have part number 33 10 7 505 602 seals, but I'm having trouble driving them into the carriers. I'd just like to verify that I have the correct seals before I take more drastic measures. BTW, my "installation tool" is an ABS pipe coupling which has about the same diameter as the metal part of the seal. This has previously been used successfully by a friend for this purpose, but perhaps I need a better tool. And for removal of the old seal, I finally used a small gear puller, and it worked very nicely. TIA, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i waiting for diff 1991 325iA seems perfectly happy in stock form ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 19:30:22 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Compression Vs. Leakdown testing? Can someone please explain the difference in objectives between compression testing and leakdown testing? I want to assess the health of my 100Kmile+ M50TU, before doing any freshening/upgrading. Which test provides the most info? Would there ever be reason to do both? Thanks for any thoughts, Rob 93 325 01 330 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:45:24 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Big Six Oil? Gary, Do you use this year round? Any concerns with the 15W being too thick for Midwest winters, cold start-ups, shorter trips, etc? Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter - --------------------------------------------------------- Original Message: Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:51:34 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Big Six Oil? I would use 15W-40 diesel oil such as Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac. Diesel oil has more ZDDP anti wear additive. Gary Derian ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:48:34 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Anyone Have the ETK Handy? You have the correct seal. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott & Charlotte > Miller > have part number 33 10 7 505 602 seals, but I'm having trouble > driving them > into the carriers. I'd just like to verify that I have the correct seals > before I take more drastic measures. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:49:38 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Compression Vs. Leakdown testing? A compression test is easier and takes less equipment. A leakdown gives more info but requires more equipment including an air compresser. 100K miles is quite new for an M50. Gary Derian > Can someone please explain the difference in objectives between compression > testing and leakdown testing? > > I want to assess the health of my 100Kmile+ M50TU, before doing any > freshening/upgrading. > > Which test provides the most info? Would there ever be reason to do both? > > Thanks for any thoughts, > Rob > 93 325 > 01 330 > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 16:11:43 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Big Six Oil? I use it year round here in Columbus. BMW allows 15W down to zero F IIRC. Gary Derian > Gary, > > Do you use this year round? Any concerns with the 15W being too thick > for Midwest winters, cold start-ups, shorter trips, etc? > > Matt Weimer > Hoosier Chapter > --------------------------------------------------------- > Original Message: > > Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:51:34 -0400 > From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [uuc] Big Six Oil? > > I would use 15W-40 diesel oil such as Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac. > Diesel > oil has more ZDDP anti wear additive. > Gary Derian > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 17:25:04 -0400 From: John Barfuss <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] e34 540i Suspension Woes Well, not quite yet, but starting to have a disconcerting light clunk/rattle in front suspension. Mostly noticeable over rough pavement, but I can also hear by turning steering wheel back and forth aggressively. My first thought is tie rod ends (I replaced control arms/bushings (BavAuto combo), shocks (with Bilsteins) and tie rod ends back in 99, 40,000+ miles ago). Are tie rod ends usually the first to go? Other thing, is a barely noticable "rotary" light grinding sound (like wheel bearing) coming from right front, goes away on veer left, returns on veer right. Usually goes away when braking, but not always. Appeared before rotors/pads were replaced, still there after replacement. Thought it was backing plate, but no backing plate touching anything. How frequently do wheel bearings go on e34 540s? Thoughts? Suggestions? Recommendations? Thanks! - -- John Barfuss B CREATIVE / Barfuss Creative Services Inc. 1331 Lake Drive SE Grand Rapids, MI 49506 616 459-8888 Phone 888 450-1088 Toll-free 616 459-6888 Fax How can we B CREATIVE for you? Visit our website: http://www.bcreative.net ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:31:56 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Anyone Have the ETK Handy? > I'd just like to verify that I have the correct > seals > > before I take more drastic measures. Hey Scott, I have a 42-oz dead blow hammer (aka BFH) that worked wonders in the rear fenders of the race car at Laguna. I'm sure it's up to handling your seal problem. :-) Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 15:08:01 -0700 From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] e34 540i Suspension Woes Re the light clunk/rattle - check your swaybar links. Look for tears in the rubber and/or end play. Other one could be the wheel bearing. Spin the suspect wheel when you have the front end up to check the links. Seems that E34 front wheel bearings are pretty bomb-proof. Still, they do go and yours may have. Jeff 90 535i - ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Barfuss" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 2:25 PM Subject: [uuc] e34 540i Suspension Woes > Well, not quite yet, but starting to have a disconcerting light > clunk/rattle in front suspension. Mostly noticeable over rough > pavement, but I can also hear by turning steering wheel back and > forth aggressively. My first thought is tie rod ends (I replaced > control arms/bushings (BavAuto combo), shocks (with Bilsteins) and > tie rod ends back in 99, 40,000+ miles ago). Are tie rod ends usually > the first to go? > > Other thing, is a barely noticable "rotary" light grinding sound > (like wheel bearing) coming from right front, goes away on veer left, > returns on veer right. Usually goes away when braking, but not > always. Appeared before rotors/pads were replaced, still there after > replacement. Thought it was backing plate, but no backing plate > touching anything. How frequently do wheel bearings go on e34 540s? > > Thoughts? Suggestions? Recommendations? Thanks! > > -- > John Barfuss > B CREATIVE / Barfuss Creative Services Inc. > 1331 Lake Drive SE > Grand Rapids, MI 49506 > > 616 459-8888 Phone > 888 450-1088 Toll-free > 616 459-6888 Fax > > How can we B CREATIVE for you? > Visit our website: http://www.bcreative.net > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6701 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
