[uucdigest] Thursday, August 28 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6708
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] I'm BAAACK 540i/6 [uuc] Clutch Squeal [uuc] [update] Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... (part2) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:24:18 -0500 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] I'm BAAACK 540i/6 Randy, Do you know if the BT kit will work with slightly older (MY2001) E39 cars? How "reasonable" was the price for the kit :-) ? Thanks! Dennis 330i silver/black/manual/sp/pp/xenon/cd (for now) At 05:13 PM 08/27/2003 -0500, you wrote: >I just installed the BT kit and it was worth the wait. The integration >with the steering wheel buttons and Nav is good and the install is easy >enough. >I had a minor problem with my Sony Ericsson T68i BT phone but that is now >resolved. I ordered the parts from Crevier BMW-reasonable price for me. > >Randy >2003 540i/6 with a bunch of goodies............... > > > >----Original Message Follows---- >From: Mike G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [uuc] I'm BAAACK 540i/6 >Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 14:51:04 -0700 (PDT) > >After 13 months of being Bimmerless for the first time in 12 years, I >picked up a 2003 540i/6 over the weekend to balance my need for >performance with the need to transport a 7 month old. Artic Silver >over Gray, NAV, Premium Sound, and sunshades. Could not resist the >incentives and discounts, awesome deals are to be had! > >I'm sure I will have a million questions but I will start with only >one. Anyone installed the new Bluetooth kit yet? > >Michael Greto BMW CCA >'03 540i/6 >'01 Boxster S >'01 Frontier Crew >'99 4Runner > > > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:32:39 -0500 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Clutch Squeal Hey all, I have a question for you guys on a squeaky clutch. I was out of town the last couple of weeks on vacation and when I came back I noticed a bizarre squeal coming from my car. It happens right when I start to engage the clutch and it only happens at the very begining. Even before the clutch is released all the way the squeal stops. If I let the clutch slip a bit the squeal is louder and longer but the more I release the clutch the less the squeal occurs. If I take a quick start and release the clutch very quickly then I don't notice the noise at all. Of course, it could be just because the engine is louder so I cant hear it. I am pretty sure it does it in all gears but I only notice it in first. That would only make sense, right? The noise itself is very similar the high pitch squeal of a loose belt. If I let the clutch slip quite a bit it can be quite piercing. I asked everyone that I ran into yesterday about it and no one had a very firm answer so I am hoping that ! you guys can help me out a little. One other symptom is that it only seems to happen when the car is warm. I first noticed it on my day back from vacation as I pulled into the garage. There is fair incline and I stop to open the garage door. Then I slip it a little to start up the hill and I heard the squeal. I backed the car out and I heard it again. I then drove it around a little to test it out that is when I found out when it occurs. So the next day I listened for it on my way to work. When I backed out of the garage I heard nothing. I didn't hear it again until later that day after running some errands. It seems like it has to heat up to a certain point before the noise starts. I just replaced the clutch last summer so the current one only has about 10,000 miles on it, the car has 110,000 total miles. Sorry for such a long email but if you have any suggestions please let me know. Thanks in advance. Roy Collins 1996 328i 5-speed...but noisy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:01:32 -0500 From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [update] Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... (part2) > > >Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 22:00:31 -0700 (PDT) >From: John Hovell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [uuc] [update] Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... > >Third misconception -- regarding estimates. At least in California, the >preparation of written estimates appears to be highly regulated. Without >exception, all of the body shops I have ever visited in my entire life >write estimates based on the damage they see. Even if it is *very likely* >but not visually apparent that a part is damaged, they will not bill for >it on the estimate. Supplements are a standard occurance once repairs are >under way. Of course there are judgement calls (repair vs. replace) and >variables (labor rate), but if an estimator follows these rules and acts >rationally, I would imagine it is very hard to find his estimate "padded" >or inaccurate. As I mentioned in the last email, the differences in cost >arose from repair/replace decisions, labor rate differences, and painting >methods. Parts missing from the Farmer's estimate I think can be >attributed to honest neglect. > > In your original email, this was really mentioned as an afterthought..... a minor detail but it really is significant... First off.. A repair rate of $60/hour vs $70 per hour... I don't know about you, but a $10 difference is a HUGE difference... would anyone here like a $10/hour raise???? Recognizing that you are in California, and the labor rate differences, you should probably call around to check out and see what the standard rate is in the area... Also, you can call up and ask for a claim rep or estimator for your insurer to see what they would pay... (for grins, in Dallas,TX the standard labor rate for body repair work is $36/hour and paint and materials is $22/hour!!) >Moving on, it seems the replies I have gotten are divided into two camps. >The first camp has argued I am entitled to the cost of repairs at the shop >of my choosing (also California law) -- in my case $1255, and also the >*reasonable* cost of rental of the damaged equipment (more on this later). > >The second camp has said Farmer's is essentially just in offering me their >own estimate (leaving alone the fact they left off some parts, and of >course the possibility that it may cost more to repair if additional >damages are found). Amusingly -- and please do forgive me for finding >this amusing -- it would seem an undue proportion of the members of this >camp claim to be in the insurance industry or are actually claims >adjustors, and sound very much like claims adjusters, or at least the ones >I've been talking to . > If they did not identify thenselves as such you should not ASS-U-ME... but you can place me in the first camp with the rest of the alleged insurance company personnel and .. and here's why... What if your shop charged $125 an hour...? What if the $70 an hour you were charged is $10 more than any other shop in town...? Are you entitled to have your vehicle repaired there?? YES! Should Farmers insurance or the other person who hit you have to pay that rate??? NO! Any people in the second camp should be moving a little closer to the first camp? but wait there's more.. Let's discuss the repair vs replace items... As you stated, you are owed to put your vehicle in pre-loss condition... While it may be vague... I can tell you it does not say that you should have a new bumper " just cause" yours was damaged.... and here's why... the bumper on your 1995 M3 was *not* new... it was at least 7 if not 8-9 years old.. I am sure you feel it was in " as new" condition, and if that's the case, then we both agree it should be put back that way... To that end, if the bumper can be repaired to "as new" condition, then that's what Farmers (and their policyholder) owe you. If the bumper is irreparably damaged, then of course you are entitled to a new bumper, but the insurance company may bid for a recycled bumper... is it OEM? YES... Would any other recycled bumper off another 1995 M3 be 7-8 years old ? YES! Can it be panted to match the car like your old bumper? YES! So then a used part would put you back into pre-loss condition! Let's go back to your estimates... you seemed to feel that all your shops are writing an accurate estimate.. HOWEVER ... if your bumper can actually be repaired.. then my statement to you is that they *are* padding their estimate, right before your eyes! Here's why... REPAIR remove and install bumper 2.5 hrs bumper repairs 1.5 hrs paint time - 1.0 hrs paint and materials $40 x 1.0 hrs = $40 cost (at $60 labor rate used by Farmers ) cacluated as ($40 paint and materials + (5.0 hrs labor x $60) = $340 REPLACE new bumper cover $ 399 (this is a guess.. I am not at work) remove and install bumper 2.5 hrs paint time 2.7 hrs (paint the entire bumper cover) paint and materials $40 x 2.7 hrs cost (at $70 labor rate used by your shop) calculated as $108 + 5.2 hrs x $70 + $399 part price) = $871 FYI.. just the 5.2 hrs repair labor at $70 = $364! Yowza! that's more than the entire costs to repair the damaged bumper! IIRC, your estimate was about $1255 and the Farmers estimate was $683... I think I've done a god job explaining why the estimates can be so far apart.. Ok... so if your bumper *can* be repaired, then what you thought was an accurate estimate *more than doubled* the repair cost, and probably tripled the amount of profit dollars for the shop!!! Do you still honestly feel that the shops have written you an honest estimate? Are all those people still in the second camp? My suggestion, because I can't see your bumper from here <grin> ..... I think you really need to find out WHY the farmers estimator said your bumper can be repaired, and why the body shops you spoke with think it cannot be repaired... (I've already told you one reason they think it must be be replaced..... Mo money.. mo money! :-) As a matter of fact.. you probably should go back to your shops that wrote your estimate and tell them that Farmers only paid you $683 and that's all you have to get the car fixed and then seee what they say... (and don't forget to let us know !) For the rest of the differences, you mentioned that there are missed items that were left off the Farmers estimate.. I imagine that they took photos of your vehicle when you were at their office, so you can call back and ask for someone to review the photos and add those on to the estimate as a supplement.. > >Now to throw some more gas on the fire <devil grin>. > >I said I would talk more about the cost of rental. Farmer's has offered >me $25/day to obtain a rental, non-negotiable, barely enough to rent a >Geo Metro or equivalent, at least here in pricy California. Additionally, >if I do not choose to repair the vehicle, I get no rental, period. > That's BS... you are owed a reasonable loss of use for the time it takes to repair your vehicle... and yes.. you should quote the Malinson v. Black case when you call back to Farmers Insurance.. However... you still have not found a good way to find the exact rental replacement cost for a 1995 M3... good luck there.... it sounds like you are willing to be flexible here so that's cool... With regards to "lost wages and time to travel to the Farmers insurance office to have your car estimated..." I have denied that request a 1000 times and would win it 1000 times... But I am in Texas... Maybe in California that pig can fly, but that dog won't hunt here.. :-D As I see it.. if Farmers won't make any changes to their handling thus far, then you have two options.... 1) turn in a claim to your insurer and let them pursue Farmers Insurance I am curious to see what you insurance company would do regarding repair vs replace, and if a replacement is needed whether it would be NEW OEM, aftermarket, or recycled.. 2) pursue the other owner in small claims court... jkerouac seemed to have some good advice for you there, as it seems that the California laws won't allow the Farmers Insurance attorneys to come in there and stomp you into the ground by making you prove that the bumper needs to be replaced, that the $70/hour repair rate is justified, and also prove up your rental costs for a 1995 M3! Since all that won't happen, the small claims court (and a sympathetic judge or jury) may actually be your best weapon... Mark Williams Dallas, TX claim rep by day... 91 ///M3 2.5L ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6708 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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