[uucdigest]        Tuesday, September 2 2003        Volume 03 : Number 6718



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] Almost 30 days till Ofest
       RE: [uuc] E34 touring rear headrests?
       [uuc] Re: Cooper S autocross impressions
       [uuc] WANTED: RECARO SRD SEATS AND BRACKETS
       [uuc] Re: Cooper S autocross impressions
       [uuc] Buying an 88 735i - what to watch out for
       Re: [uuc] Cooper S autocross impressions
       RE: [uuc] cam oil seal replacement
       Re: [uuc] Buying an 88 735i - what to watch out for
       [uuc] Catalytic Test
       Re: [uuc] Catalytic Test
       Re: [uuc] Cooper S autocross impressions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 11:58:21 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Almost 30 days till Ofest

I'm going by way of the Mississippi Gulf Coast.

Ed

Steven Schlossman wrote:

> Anyone going? Maybe this is the year I will win some door prizes.
>
> In any event, I started a message board for folks looking to caravan.
> http://www.happytogether.com/unofficialofest/
>
> We have one small group from the DC area.
> Someone is looking to form a caravan from Denver.
> Another group is looking to form a drive from Ohio.
>
> Also, M3 raffle tickets requests received later than Sept 26 will not 
> be honored.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:03:33 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E34 touring rear headrests?

Actually, you're both correct.

The E34 rear head restraints go through the leather of the seat, into
brackets mounted to the rear bulkhead. You must remove the head restraints
before you can remove the rear seat back.

The procedure and parts described in the write up in question, will not fit
on E34 Touring. There are head restraints available for the E34 Touring, but
they mount into the seats, and have a lower profile so that the seats can
still be folded with them in place.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Malcolm Reitz
> You could be right - I haven't seen the headrests in person. I picked up
> on this line, "This bracket is installed to the flat metal panel that is
> part of the car by 3 metal screws.", as referring to something attached
> to the car body behind the seats.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Karl Zemlin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> The instructions talk about cutting holes in leather - doesn't sound
> like a
> shelf-mount to me.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 15:34:05 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Cooper S autocross impressions

on 8/31/03 6:40 PM, Bora Akyol (BMW) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Bad stuff
> - ---------
> 1) The run-flat tires (Pirelli 205/45/17) are horrible, no grip
> until I lowered the pressures to low 30s.

Not to mention how much they and the stock wheels weigh.

Neil
96 M3

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 13:51:14 -0700
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] WANTED: RECARO SRD SEATS AND BRACKETS

Group,

I'd like to find a pair of black leather Recaro SRD's and brackets for
my 89 M3.  If anyone has a set they'd like to part with, please let me
know.

Thanks!
Chris
89 M3   http://www.inlacal.com
01 X5

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 16:28:54 -0700
From: Bora Akyol (BMW) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Cooper S autocross impressions

> I weighed them at close to 50 lbs per corner,
> I had a set of Falken Azenis and 16 inch Rota
> wheels at a combined weight of 33 lbs
> in my garage, but I wanted to feel what the car can
> do with the stock wheels.
>
> On Monday, Sep 1, 2003, at 13:34 US/Pacific, Neil Maller wrote:
>
>> on 8/31/03 6:40 PM, Bora Akyol (BMW) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>> Bad stuff
>>> - ---------
>>> 1) The run-flat tires (Pirelli 205/45/17) are horrible, no grip
>>> until I lowered the pressures to low 30s.
>>
>> Not to mention how much they and the stock wheels weigh.
>>
>> Neil
>> 96 M3
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 17:47:41 -0700
From: "Richard & Joanne Bergen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Buying an 88 735i - what to watch out for

I have a friend who is considering buying a 1988 735i. The car has 105k
miles and checks out on Carfax. It is a 5 speed manual. This will be my
friends first BMW so I would like him to have a good experience. He has
driven it and is very favorably impressed. He will be buying it from a used
car dealer, so no maintenance history. I have owned many BMWs but never an
E32 7 series, so have no personal experience to rely on. I do know the '88
is the first model year for the E32, so are there any particular weak
points/problem areas that my friend should look for? Any advice would be
greatly appreciated

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 20:23:19 -0700
From: John Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Cooper S autocross impressions

> Stiffer front springs will also transfer more weight.  Stiffer rear
> springs, or a stiffer rear anti-roll bar will reduce weight transfer at
> the front.

Let's make sure we're talking about the same thing, I'm talking 
side-to-side weight transfer, and I'm talking about a setup for 9+/10ths 
track use.  In an open-diff FWD car you want to decouple the front wheels 
from one another to as great a degree as reasonably possible, so as to keep 
that inside wheel on the ground at all costs.

> But this is a loosing battle, a FWD car needs limited slip
> more than a RWD car does.  In general, FWD cars have about a 50/50 roll
> stiffness distribution.  RWD cars are closer to 80/20.  Much more weight
> transferrs off the inside drive wheel in a FWD car than in a RWD car.

Someone used to driving RWD cars fast won't much like the feel of an 
open-diff FWD car set up for track use, you end up running stiff front 
springs and a ton of rear roll stiffness and the end result is a very fast 
car but one with little room for adjusting your line once in a corner.

A speed-limiting limited-slip (e.g. viscous, etc.) will help this, but you 
won't get a lot of throttle-steerability.

A Quaife/Torsen-type torque-limiting diff is a completely different animal 
- - since you will get more pull at the outside front wheel (which tends to 
pull the nose in around the CG) you get a very great degree of 
throttle-steerability, you can use a reasonably balanced chassis setup, 
it's a lot of fun.

John.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 21:11:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: igor koruga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] cam oil seal replacement

Thanks Brett. As you suggested I took off distributor
cap, rotor and plastic shield and found just a trace
of oil in the housing (on the head). Nothing major
just few small wet spots. Now I am leaning towards
head gasket �letting go� since head is �wet� with oil
right in the area of cyl#1 � side and front towards
exhaust side. I did compression test just for the
kicks ( don't have equipment for leak down test):
#1: 150 psi
#2: 150
#3: 150
#4: 170
#5: 142
#6: dry: 110; wet: 120

I did the test with chipo gauge (so I am not sure how
much I trust accuracy)  and repeated it 3 times per
cylinder. This test shows that cyl.#1 is ok, but there
might be issues with #6, and #4 might have some excess
carbon deposits(well, there might be issues with other
cylinders but since I did not do leak down test...)

Anything else I should look at? Suggestions?

Thanks a lot,
Igor
86 325
BMW CCA GGC

Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 00:33:24 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] cam oil seal replacement

The simple way to check if the cam seal is leaking is
to remove the
distributor cap, rotor and plastic shield.  10 minutes
work.   If you 
don't
find oil behind the shield, then your cam seal is not
leaking.

If it is leaking, then you simply unbolt the seal
carrier from the head 
and
throw it away.  Get a new seal carrier, carrier O
ring, and cam seal, 
from
your BMW dealer.  Knock the seal into the carrier with
a hammer, 
install the
O ring and install the carrier in the head.

Once upon a time, I'd have said knock the seal out of
the old carrier, 
but
the last two that I tried that with ended with seal
carriers that were
broken in two......

Brett Anderson
KMS

> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf
Of igor koruga
> I have a small oil leak/drip by cylinder #1 on my 86
> 325. It was suggested to me that cam oil seal might
be
> leaking ( I looked and can not determine with
> certainty if it is head gasket or oil cam seal). I
am
> tying to plan for all the tools/parts that I will
need
> if indeed it is bad cam seal ( I will also change
> water pump and timing belt while I am in there). My
> question is : do I really need press (as stated in
> Bentley) to seat cam oil seal and o-ring  in the
seal
> housing? If not how else can I do it? This will be
my
> first time doing this, so any tips and tricks are
> greatly appreciated.



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 07:37:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Adam Roy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Buying an 88 735i - what to watch out for

I am not too familiar with the E32, however my wife's
89 535 was greatly improved with a Jim C Chip.  It
helped wake up the lower end.  The engine have been
bulletproof so far to 155K.

- -Adam-

- --- Richard & Joanne Bergen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have a friend who is considering buying a 1988
> 735i. The car has 105k
> miles and checks out on Carfax. It is a 5 speed
> manual. This will be my
> friends first BMW so I would like him to have a good
> experience. He has
> driven it and is very favorably impressed. He will
> be buying it from a used
> car dealer, so no maintenance history. I have owned
> many BMWs but never an
> E32 7 series, so have no personal experience to rely
> on. I do know the '88
> is the first model year for the E32, so are there
> any particular weak
> points/problem areas that my friend should look for?
> Any advice would be
> greatly appreciated
> 


__________________________________
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 10:03:19 -0500
From: "Bill Yates" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Catalytic Test

How do I test if my catalytic converters are clogged?  They don't rattle,
but I am getting error codes from all 4 cylinders on one side of the engine.

Thanks,
Bill
'97 540i

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:18:15 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Catalytic Test

What code are you getting?
Gary Derian



> How do I test if my catalytic converters are clogged?  They don't rattle,
> but I am getting error codes from all 4 cylinders on one side of the
engine.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
> '97 540i
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:57:05 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Cooper S autocross impressions

I am talking about the same thing.  Later weight transfer depends only on
the track width, cornering acceleration and center of gravity height.
Lateral weight transfer distribution can be altered within reason by having
a higher roll stiffness at one end or the other.  Both anti-roll bars, and
stiffer springs affect roll stiffness.

If your car weighs 3000 lb, has a CG that is 18 inches high, a track of 58
inches and is cornering at 0.9g, the total weight transfer from the inside
wheels to the outside wheels is 838 lb.  That number can change only if the
above specs change.

If the car is square and has 1500 lb on the left side and 1500 lb on the
right side, then in that corner, it will have 662 on the left and 2338 on
the right.

Suspension tuning can distribute that 838 lb between the front pair and rear
pair of wheels.  Maybe 700 transfers at the front, or 500 transfers at the
front.  This is adjustable.

Springs and anti-roll bars both affect this weight transfer distribution.

Any type of limited slip will put more pull on the outside tire.  The
differences lie in how they get there.  A clutch type puts more torque to
the inside (slower) tire, until it begins to slip, then sends a % to the
other.  A viscous coupling does the same but in a smoother fashion, sending
less to the slower tire and transitioning more smoothly.  A Quaife or Torsen
sends equal torque to each until one begins to overspeed the other, then
transfers just enough torque away from it to prevent the overspeeding.

Gary Derian


> > Stiffer front springs will also transfer more weight.  Stiffer rear
> > springs, or a stiffer rear anti-roll bar will reduce weight transfer at
> > the front.
>
> Let's make sure we're talking about the same thing, I'm talking
> side-to-side weight transfer, and I'm talking about a setup for 9+/10ths
> track use.  In an open-diff FWD car you want to decouple the front wheels
> from one another to as great a degree as reasonably possible, so as to
keep
> that inside wheel on the ground at all costs.
>
> > But this is a loosing battle, a FWD car needs limited slip
> > more than a RWD car does.  In general, FWD cars have about a 50/50 roll
> > stiffness distribution.  RWD cars are closer to 80/20.  Much more weight
> > transferrs off the inside drive wheel in a FWD car than in a RWD car.
>
> Someone used to driving RWD cars fast won't much like the feel of an
> open-diff FWD car set up for track use, you end up running stiff front
> springs and a ton of rear roll stiffness and the end result is a very fast
> car but one with little room for adjusting your line once in a corner.
>
> A speed-limiting limited-slip (e.g. viscous, etc.) will help this, but you
> won't get a lot of throttle-steerability.
>
> A Quaife/Torsen-type torque-limiting diff is a completely different animal
> - since you will get more pull at the outside front wheel (which tends to
> pull the nose in around the CG) you get a very great degree of
> throttle-steerability, you can use a reasonably balanced chassis setup,
> it's a lot of fun.
>
> John.
>

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6718
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