[uucdigest]        Monday, September 22 2003        Volume 03 : Number 6773



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] Withdrawal of Z4 Eligibility in SSB
       Re: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end ..
       RE: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end..
       [uuc] E30 325iC coolant leak
       [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner
       Re: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end..
       Re: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner
       RE: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner
       [uuc] RE: <OT> college car
       RE: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car
       [uuc] E30 control arm bushings: OEM or aftermarket?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 14:14:57 -0400
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Withdrawal of Z4 Eligibility in SSB

I would find this completely unacceptable if I were there.  Heck, I would
consider legal action against the SCCA, if nothing else to re-coup the
expenses involved in travelling to & preparing for the event.

Typical attitude though, it's the American way.  "If you can't beat 'em, ban
'em."

Lee

> -----Original Message-----
> From: KMS - Brett Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2003 12:06 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [uuc] Withdrawal of Z4 Eligibility in SSB
> 
> 
> Y'know, those pricks really piss me off.
> 
> I'd post a response but something's wrong with the 
> registration system that
> enables one to post.
> 
> Jim Leithauser is the "conflict of interest" all these assholes are
> referring to.  Someone need to tell them to shut their 
> friggin mouth unless
> they know something about what they are talking about.
> 
> Leithauser was NOT on the comp board when the Z4 was 
> classified.  He WAS on
> the comp board when they added 50lbs to the car before it had 
> even run a
> race.
> 
> Also someone else on the SCCA board says that the 
> "aftermarket" hard top
> they are using should have been grounds for disqualification.
> 
> First, the GCR and SSS do NOT state it has to be a factory 
> hard top. Second,
> they ARE factory hard tops. Third, the factory hard top is 
> READILY available
> in the US through your local BMW dealer and has been for weeks.
> 
> Hey Jim, if you're a registered member of the SCCA message 
> boards, perhaps
> you'd forward these facts to those idiots.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Brett Anderson
> KMS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 13:28:36 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end ..

"Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have two issues with my car squeaking when I go over bumps, etc.  My 
car 
> is a 93 325i with 145k and some suspension mods (full M3 suspension, UUC 

> sway bars, H&R OE sport springs, and Bilsteins).
> 
> First, the doors in my car seem to squeak all the time when I go over 
> bumps, etc.  What can I do to reduce the squeaking noise? 

You have a 4-door, right?
My wife's 70K mile 4-doors has started creaking a lot lately as well. Not 
sure why. 

> Could it be the rubber weather stripping, or possibly the hinges or door 
> latch? 

Could be. 
She is not complaining, so I haven't gotten to the bottom of this yet.

> I have heard somewhere that there is some product that I can put on the
> rubber weather stripping to help reduce the noise.  What is this product
> and where can I get it?

I think you are talking about Gummypfliage (sp?). About $6 at the dealer. 
It does rejuvenate the rubber seals, though I doubt that is the source of 
the squeaks.

> Secondly, I just did some major R&R to the rear end of my car.  I replaced
> the rear subframe with an M3 rear subframe, and installed all new OE 
> bushings.  I installed new OE rear trailing arm bushings with GC shims and
> new OE rear lower and upper CA bushings as well.  Now, the rear end 
squeaks
> like crazy, even when I just put a little bit of pressure on the 
suspension
> (like sitting on the bumper or pushing down on the trunk).   Could the GC 
> shims cause some of the squeak? 

Funny you should bring this up. I've also recently done the RTAB job 
installing stock bushings with GC shims. Right after that job I've noticed 
new squeaking sounds coming from the back end. 
Causation? Correlation?
Some day I'll find out.

> I also have UUC sway bars as well, and it seems like some of the noise
> is coming from where the sway bar and its plastic/rubber bushings meet.
> Should this link be lubed up at all?  With the sway bar out, I cleaned 
the
> plastic/rubber mount with some degreaser before I re-installed the sway 
bar. 

If you use polyurethane sway bar bushings, you need to wrap the bar in 
several layers of teflon tape (and replace it whenever it tears). That's 
the only way to loose the incessant squeaking. Greases dry up or leak out.

HTH,
alex f

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 11:42:04 -0700
From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end..

> squirt some white lithium grease in the sway bar bushings.  You
> wouldn't
> believe how much noise those things can make.

I'll second that.

By adding the UUC swaybars (and the urethane bushings), you've added another 
maintenence item :-)

I happen to use a Mobil 1 grease, in a tube designed for a grease gun. Another tip 
that seems to work is wrap the portion of the sway bar that goes into the bushing with 
plumber's tape. Thin and slippery, it adds another layer of "quieting" to the sway bar.

Hope that helps,
Jim Bassett
1998 M3/4 - w/UUC swaybars and other stuff
1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - can't hear the squeaks over the clunks/rumbles/road noise :-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 15:04:22 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] E30 325iC coolant leak

My car is leaking coolant that ends up in a little puddle in front of the left front 
wheel when it sits in the garage after a drive.  I've felt around the wheelwell and 
have taken a quick look down there, but have found no conclusive evidence as to where 
the leak is.  I'm hoping to possibly get some advice before I crawl under there with 
the flashlight.

Thanks in advance,

Mike Kozitka

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 15:04:40 -0400
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner

Awhile back I posted looking for info about the cam chain tensioner
required for my '94 325i.  I had a website that discussed the swap for
an M3, and I took the chance that this was the part I needed.  I know
someone (I think Alex Fadeev) asked for feedback if that was the correct
part, as they were looking at the same R&R.

I did the change with the M3 part and all seems to be well.  I was a
little concerned at first that the part that came out had a spring
behind the plunger, whereas the new part did not, but my cam chain is
apparently properly tensioned and after a few thousand miles with the
new part all is well.  The ticking on start-up is still there, but it
only lasts a couple of seconds so I'm not too concerned.

Chris B.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 12:13:51 -0700
From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end..

Gummiphledge will definately help reduce door seal squeaks.  Recommend you
try that before moving to more drastic measures.

Jeff
90 535i

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 10:15 AM
Subject: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear
end..


> I have two issues with my car squeaking when I go over bumps, etc.  My car
is a
> 93 325i with 145k and some suspension mods (full M3 suspension, UUC sway
bars,
> H&R OE sport springs, and Bilsteins).
>
> First, the doors in my car seem to squeak all the time when I go over
bumps,
> etc.  What can I do to reduce the squeaking noise?  Could it be the rubber
> weather stripping, or possibly the hinges or door latch?  I have heard
somewhere
> that there is some product that I can put on the rubber weather stripping
to
> help reduce the noise.  What is this product and where can I get it?
>
> Secondly, I just did some major R&R to the rear end of my car.  I replaced
the
> rear subframe with an M3 rear subframe, and installed all new OE bushings.
I
> installed new OE rear trailing arm bushings with GC shims and new OE rear
lower
> and upper CA bushings as well.  Now, the rear end squeaks like crazy, even
when
> I just put a little bit of pressure on the suspension (like sitting on the
> bumper or pushing down on the trunk).   Could the GC shims cause some of
the
> squeak?  I also have UUC sway bars as well, and it seems like some of the
noise
> is coming from where the sway bar and its plastic/rubber bushings meet.
Should
> this link be lubed up at all?  With the sway bar out, I cleaned the
> plastic/rubber mount with some degreaser before I re-installed the sway
bar.
>
> Thanks for any help, and hopefully someone here has dealt with these
squeaks
> before!
>
> Jesse Chamberlain
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 15:52:21 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner

There is a spring, but it is retained.
Gary Derian

> 
> I did the change with the M3 part and all seems to be well.  I was a
> little concerned at first that the part that came out had a spring
> behind the plunger, whereas the new part did not, but my cam chain is
> apparently properly tensioned and after a few thousand miles with the
> new part all is well.  The ticking on start-up is still there, but it
> only lasts a couple of seconds so I'm not too concerned.
> 
> Chris B.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:43:14 -0400
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner

Retained in the housing?  It definitely was not on the plunger (piston?
spool valve?), and I don't think I saw anything in the housing.  But I'm
wrong on a daily basis, so no surprise there.  I only worried a little,
since the part was in the factory plastic bag and didn't look like it
had been messed with.

Chris B.

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Derian
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 3:52 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner


There is a spring, but it is retained.
Gary Derian

>
> I did the change with the M3 part and all seems to be well.  I was a
> little concerned at first that the part that came out had a spring
> behind the plunger, whereas the new part did not, but my cam chain is
> apparently properly tensioned and after a few thousand miles with the
> new part all is well.  The ticking on start-up is still there, but it
> only lasts a couple of seconds so I'm not too concerned.
>
> Chris B.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 14:09:52 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car

I have a child starting college this week and as in Scott's recent search
I'm looking at replacing an aging E23. Great car but it's soon to need a
tranny rebuild and head reconditioning. Just don't see putting that much
money into it.

So here's the car question. I notice a lot of Nissan Maxima's seem to fall
in value pretty quickly. Is there a reason for this? Well I know there's a
reason, but it is reliability or costly maintenance or just an all around
crappy car?

- -Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:21:02 -0500
From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car

Funny you mention this because I just got my girlfriend a Maxima. I am a car
dealer...and this car came in on trade a month ago. It was a 96 Maxima GLE
(leather, hot seats, low as hell mileage..everything). I got this thing for
under $5,000 and it drives incredibly nice. It is smooth, quiet, good gas
mileage, and cheap...with all the extras to boot. I talked to some other
owners of these before I decided to give it to her...they all said the same
thing...very reliable. The thing to look out for on Maxima's is the sunroof.
They have plastic gearing that can go bad....look at $1,000 to fix. I'd say
they are a good bargain. I am a complete European car snob...but I have to
say, this car impresses me...it would make a great college car, IMHO.

Alex Cagann


> So here's the car question. I notice a lot of Nissan Maxima's seem to fall
> in value pretty quickly. Is there a reason for this? Well I know there's a
> reason, but it is reliability or costly maintenance or just an all around
> crappy car?
>
> -Kevin
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 17:20:51 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] E30 control arm bushings: OEM or aftermarket?

I was just flipping through the latest Bavarian Autosport catalog, looking at the 
various options for replacing my car's worn control arm bushings.  They advertise some 
for about $60 apiece that come in urethane or rubber and are supposed to be better 
than the OEM replacements, which are about $20 each.  

I've heard that urethane ones squeak and need to be pressed into place with tools that 
I don't have.  The $60 rubber ones seem like a good choice, but are they significantly 
better (3x the price) than OEM?  I'd like to hear some fellow digesters' experiences.

TIA,

Mike Kozitka

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6773
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