[uucdigest] Monday, September 22 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6772
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: RE: [uuc] Withdrawal of Z4 Eligibility in SSB [uuc] A TALE OF TWO ENGINES s54 v s52 RE: [uuc] A TALE OF TWO ENGINES s54 v s52 Re: [uuc] E30 starter prob RE: [uuc] Withdrawal of Z4 Eligibility in SSB [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end .. [uuc] WTB: Rear Sway bar for M Coupe/Roadster [uuc] WTB: Confused, not exactly sure what diff I WTB... Re: [uuc] WTB: Confused, not exactly sure what diff I WTB... RE: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end.. [uuc] "First Automotive" insurance? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 11:40:39 -0400 (EDT) From: "Mark J. Andy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Withdrawal of Z4 Eligibility in SSB Howdy, On Sat, 20 Sep 2003, KMS - Brett Anderson wrote: > Y'know, those pricks really piss me off. > > I'd post a response but something's wrong with the registration system that > enables one to post. Note that SCCAForums.com _isn't_ affiliated with the SCCA btw... Mark ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 08:51:32 -0700 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] A TALE OF TWO ENGINES s54 v s52 Group, While at the dealer on Saturday, I decided to price the longblock of an s54. To my surprise, a long block (minus ancillaries) can be had for $3500. Here's the kicker: I made the same inquiry on the longblock s52. The price? $12,500. Yes. I'm serious. Moreover, you can acquire the s54 and 6 speed transmission for about $7800. The s52 and 5 speed will cost you more than double that amount. Chris 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com/m3/m3.htm 01 X5 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 12:19:49 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] A TALE OF TWO ENGINES s54 v s52 The S54 long block is down on price because of the warranty replacements. It saves BMW money, as they reimburse their dealer the cost of the part, plus 10%, for a warranty repair. It was, and will again be, around $14K new. Also, it's useless to you without the other $16K in parts that make it into a useable engine. Unlike the S52, which can have any M52, or even M50 ancillaries bolted to it to make it work. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chris Marino > While at the dealer on Saturday, I decided to price the longblock of an > s54. To my surprise, a long block (minus ancillaries) can be had for > $3500. > Here's the kicker: I made the same inquiry on the longblock s52. The > price? $12,500. > Yes. I'm serious. > Moreover, you can acquire the s54 and 6 speed transmission for about > $7800. The s52 and 5 speed will cost you more than double that amount. ____________________________________ 100% Spam Control by SpamEnder Free Download and Trial http://www.spamender.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 12:27:42 -0400 From: "Michael Wendell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 starter prob > Oh, and I don't think it's a battery issue. The > battery was pretty > strong when I started the swap, but I hooked up my > charger and set it to > 'Jump Start' just to make sure and it did not change > the symptom at all. my guess is either the starter solenoid or the battery. the symptoms are the same as the ones that occured when the battery died in my E34 525iT last winter. no engagement, spinning starter motor. a good long charge or a real jump start should help it. fwiw, the 'jump start' setting on most consumer battery chargers is pretty useless, at least the ones i've tried. m. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 10:06:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Joe Tan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Withdrawal of Z4 Eligibility in SSB Considering how much Mazda factory is commmited in supporting grassroot motorsports and how BMW factory has neglected the sports. This decision is not suprising. It's not fair but it's just fact of life. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 13:15:45 -0400 From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end .. I have two issues with my car squeaking when I go over bumps, etc. My car is a 93 325i with 145k and some suspension mods (full M3 suspension, UUC sway bars, H&R OE sport springs, and Bilsteins). First, the doors in my car seem to squeak all the time when I go over bumps, etc. What can I do to reduce the squeaking noise? Could it be the rubber weather stripping, or possibly the hinges or door latch? I have heard somewhere that there is some product that I can put on the rubber weather stripping to help reduce the noise. What is this product and where can I get it? Secondly, I just did some major R&R to the rear end of my car. I replaced the rear subframe with an M3 rear subframe, and installed all new OE bushings. I installed new OE rear trailing arm bushings with GC shims and new OE rear lower and upper CA bushings as well. Now, the rear end squeaks like crazy, even when I just put a little bit of pressure on the suspension (like sitting on the bumper or pushing down on the trunk). Could the GC shims cause some of the squeak? I also have UUC sway bars as well, and it seems like some of the noise is coming from where the sway bar and its plastic/rubber bushings meet. Should this link be lubed up at all? With the sway bar out, I cleaned the plastic/rubber mount with some degreaser before I re-installed the sway bar. Thanks for any help, and hopefully someone here has dealt with these squeaks before! Jesse Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 12:18:41 -0500 From: "Bill Yates" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] WTB: Rear Sway bar for M Coupe/Roadster I am looking to purchase a 20-22 mm rear sway bar from a Z3, M Coupe/Roadster. Thanks, Bill '95 330ti [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 10:51:24 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] WTB: Confused, not exactly sure what diff I WTB... Here's my dilema. My 3.73:1 LSD is noisy. I thought I'd take the opportunity to upgrade to a lower (higher numerically) ratio LSD, killing 2 birds with one stone. I wasn't sure I wanted to take the pluge and go for the 4.10:1 ratio (E30 M3, late E30 325i automatics), and I knew that there are a few 3.91:1 LSDs kicking around out there, so I posted some WTBs for a 3.91 LSD. A guy responded saying he had one from an E30 325is, so I bought it. But it was all rusty, and I refused to put a rusty diff in my car. And I didn't have time to clean it up first, so I sat on it for a few months. When I finally got around to working on it, it turned out to be the small case diff that was used in the 318i. So now I've got a diff I can't use (maybe I can buy a boat and use it as an anchor), but that won't stop me. Since the 3.91 LSDs are kind of rare, I started thinking again about the 4.10. I did some calcs on engine revs and figured, since I'm only driving the car about 7500 miles a year, who cares what it is gonna do to gas mileage? (Revs will be about 5% higher with the 3.91, and about 10% higher with the 4.10.) So I started looking for a 4.10 LSD locally. Then Donna found me a 3.91 LSD out of a 635CSi, but the price is kinda high. So my dilema is, do I buy the pricey 3.91 LSD, which is what I originally wanted, or do I hold out for a 4.10 LSD instead, which I might even be able to get for less $? So if anyone actually has a good working, cleanish, quiet 4.10:1 medium case LSD for an E30 that they'd like to sell, please let me know. Otherwise I'll ask Donna to get the 3.91 that she found me. Thanks to Brett, BTW, for knowing that some 635CSiA's came with a 3.91 diff ratio. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA San Ramon, CA 94583 1990 325i w/ noisy diff 1991 325iA for wife and daughter to putt putt around town ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 14:01:50 -0400 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] WTB: Confused, not exactly sure what diff I WTB... Why can't you use the small cased diff? It will wear out faster, but off the track, who ever really wears out a diff, anyway? How high is kinda high? I think they should cost in the $250-$350 range from what I have seen nationwide (I am collecting a set of them, having all the numerically lower range ones, already). Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Here's my dilema. My 3.73:1 LSD is noisy. I thought I'd take the >opportunity to upgrade to a lower (higher numerically) ratio LSD, killing 2 >birds with one stone. I wasn't sure I wanted to take the pluge and go for >the 4.10:1 ratio (E30 M3, late E30 325i automatics), and I knew that there >are a few 3.91:1 LSDs kicking around out there, so I posted some WTBs for a >3.91 LSD. A guy responded saying he had one from an E30 325is, so I bought >it. But it was all rusty, and I refused to put a rusty diff in my car. >And I didn't have time to clean it up first, so I sat on it for a few >months. When I finally got around to working on it, it turned out to be >the small case diff that was used in the 318i. So now I've got a diff I >can't use (maybe I can buy a boat and use it as an anchor), but that won't >stop me. > >Since the 3.91 LSDs are kind of rare, I started thinking again about the >4.10. I did some calcs on engine revs and figured, since I'm only driving >the car about 7500 miles a year, who cares what it is gonna do to gas >mileage? (Revs will be about 5% higher with the 3.91, and about 10% higher >with the 4.10.) So I started looking for a 4.10 LSD locally. Then Donna >found me a 3.91 LSD out of a 635CSi, but the price is kinda high. So my >dilema is, do I buy the pricey 3.91 LSD, which is what I originally wanted, >or do I hold out for a 4.10 LSD instead, which I might even be able to get >for less $? > >So if anyone actually has a good working, cleanish, quiet 4.10:1 medium >case LSD for an E30 that they'd like to sell, please let me know. >Otherwise I'll ask Donna to get the 3.91 that she found me. > >Thanks to Brett, BTW, for knowing that some 635CSiA's came with a 3.91 diff >ratio. > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA >San Ramon, CA 94583 >1990 325i w/ noisy diff >1991 325iA for wife and daughter to putt putt around town > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 11:22:19 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end.. squirt some white lithium grease in the sway bar bushings. You wouldn't believe how much noise those things can make. Marco - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chamberlain, Jesse Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 10:16 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: [uuc] Question regarding squeaks and noises inside the car and rear end.. I have two issues with my car squeaking when I go over bumps, etc. My car is a 93 325i with 145k and some suspension mods (full M3 suspension, UUC sway bars, H&R OE sport springs, and Bilsteins). First, the doors in my car seem to squeak all the time when I go over bumps, etc. What can I do to reduce the squeaking noise? Could it be the rubber weather stripping, or possibly the hinges or door latch? I have heard somewhere that there is some product that I can put on the rubber weather stripping to help reduce the noise. What is this product and where can I get it? Secondly, I just did some major R&R to the rear end of my car. I replaced the rear subframe with an M3 rear subframe, and installed all new OE bushings. I installed new OE rear trailing arm bushings with GC shims and new OE rear lower and upper CA bushings as well. Now, the rear end squeaks like crazy, even when I just put a little bit of pressure on the suspension (like sitting on the bumper or pushing down on the trunk). Could the GC shims cause some of the squeak? I also have UUC sway bars as well, and it seems like some of the noise is coming from where the sway bar and its plastic/rubber bushings meet. Should this link be lubed up at all? With the sway bar out, I cleaned the plastic/rubber mount with some degreaser before I re-installed the sway bar. Thanks for any help, and hopefully someone here has dealt with these squeaks before! Jesse Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 14:22:21 -0400 From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] "First Automotive" insurance? Has anyone gotten an extended warranty backed by "First Automotive" in Albuquerque, NM? I am buying a new (used) tow vehicle (2002 Yukon XL) and the dealer can't CPO it but has this comprehensive policy at a good price but I wanted to know if anyone has any info on them. The tow vehicle is going to tow my M3 club racer (obligatory BMW content). Thanks, Mike Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED] M3 IP #121 PS - Thanks to all who gave recommendations on the tow vehicles when I was thinking about an Expedition. I took the vast majority of advice I got and will be buying a 3/4-ton Yukon XL with the 8.1-liter gas engine and autoride. It's not a diesel but I've heard from several racers that it will tow a 24- to 28-foot enclosed trailer no problem (up to 12,000 lbs towing capacity). Thanks!! _______________________________________________ BMW CR SIG Sponsors: http://www.turnermotorsport.com (Turner Motorsport) http://www.vacmotorsports.com (VAC Motorsports) http://www.bimmerworld.com (Bimmerworld) http://www.evosport.com (evosport) http://www.globalmotorsportsgroup.com (GMG) http://www.iigomotiv.com (iigomotiv) _______________________________________________ Reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://lists.bimmers.com/mailman/listinfo/club-racing-list Version BMW.2 ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6772 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
