[uucdigest]        Tuesday, September 23 2003        Volume 03 : Number 6775



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] OK class ...
       [uuc] Continental tires for sale
       [uuc] RE:OK class...
       Re: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner
       [uuc] Bridgestone RE750 experiences?
       [uuc] E30 - Help!  Loose Steering - not the usual suspects  (Long)
       [uuc] 2000 328i BLACK ON TAN FOR SALE
       Re: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car
       Re: [uuc] re: WTB:  Confused, not exactly sure what diff I WTB...
       RE: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car
       RE: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 20:51:01 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] OK class ...

And I still think it's hacked up by chain-smoking Bavarian Gummi bears.....

Martin Bullen
'95 M3
'97 Z3 2.8

>In a message dated 9/22/03 8:29:22 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>
>> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:37:17 -0700
>> From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Subject: RE: [uuc] OK class ...
>> 
>> i dunno, gummy phlegm probably works as well.
>> 
>> drink some milk first.
>> 
>> (ewwwwwwwwwww yuck)
>> 
>> Marco
>> 
>> - -----Original Message-----
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve Walsh
>> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 4:04 PM
>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Subject: [uuc] OK class ...
>> 
>> 
>> It's Gummi-Pflege (part# 82 14 9 407 015) not Gummypfliage, or Gummiphledge
>> or Gummiphlegm et al. :)
>> 
>> Say it with me Gooommee-Fleeg-ah, I know you can.....
>> 
>> You can now return to your Cheech and Chong "Sister Mary Elephant"
>> flashback.
>> 
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 20:52:58 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Continental tires for sale

3 Continental ContiSportContacts, size 225/45-17. � These were on the wheels  I bought 
to replace my stock wheels (only 3 available; one had an unrepairable flat). � This is 
the stock size for '96-'99 M3 front wheels, and I think the sport package size for 
several '99-'03 E46 3-series. � They look to have very little wear: maybe 2/3 to 3/4 
of the tread is still there, and there's no evidence of puncture repairs on any of 
them. � New they're $126 each at Tirerack. � Asking $50/offer each, plus shipping.

E-mail me for pictures if interested.

Martin Bullen
'95 M3
'97 Z3 2.8

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 21:12:08 -0400
From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE:OK class...

> It's Gummi-Pflege (part# 82 14 9 407 015) not
> Gummypfliage, or Gummiphledge or Gummiphlegm
> et al. :)

Interesting...when I go to my local dealer (Nalley BMW, nee Chris
Motors) here in Atlanta, I only get blank stares when I ask for
Gummi-Pflege.  Until one of them "gets" it and says, "Oh, you mean
Gummi-Pledge!".

  KC Boyce
  '97 M3 <- nice lemony scent from door seals :-)
  E30 Eta Page: http://www.e30eta.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 20:49:49 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 Cam chain tensioner

The tensioner I know, has a retaining clip that limits the extension of the
spring.  A casual look reveals no spring.  Yanking the inner plunger pulls
the clip out of the groove and all the pieces fly around the garage.

Our tensioners may be different.

Gary Derian

> Retained in the housing?  It definitely was not on the plunger (piston?
> spool valve?), and I don't think I saw anything in the housing.  But I'm
> wrong on a daily basis, so no surprise there.  I only worried a little,
> since the part was in the factory plastic bag and didn't look like it
> had been messed with.
>
> Chris B.
>
> There is a spring, but it is retained.
> Gary Derian
>
> >
> > I did the change with the M3 part and all seems to be well.  I was a
> > little concerned at first that the part that came out had a spring
> > behind the plunger, whereas the new part did not, but my cam chain is
> > apparently properly tensioned and after a few thousand miles with the
> > new part all is well.  The ticking on start-up is still there, but it
> > only lasts a couple of seconds so I'm not too concerned.
> >
> > Chris B.
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 19:07:30 -0700
From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Bridgestone RE750 experiences?

I had hoped to squeeze a little more mileage out of the current 
Dunlop SP8000's on my E36, at least until the rainy season began, but 
a stray nail will probably force my hand

The tire shop will only patch a tire with 2/32nd tread depth above 
the wear bars, and the RR tire that was nailed will probably fail to 
qualify; the dice rolled the wrong way because the other three tires 
would be OK.

Size: 225/50-16 on E36 coupe.  California weather, so wet performance 
isn't the top priority.  Spirited street, but no DE duty.

So far, the best candidate seems to be the new Bridgestone RE750 
($119 Tire Rack), which appears to have a good balance between price, 
performance and theoretical longevity.  I assume it is improved over 
its predecessor, the RE730, whose reputation for being very noisy 
resulted in a revised design.

Anybody here tried the RE750 yet?  I tend not to trust the web 
reviews which are sprinkled with comments from people who have 
supposedly driven a year on tires that first went on sale 3-4 months 
ago.

I also considered the Yokohama ES100 ($80), but apparently, its very 
soft sidewalls adversely affect its response characteristics.  I have 
a friend who hated them so much he swapped them out shortly after 
installation.  Their rock bottom price do make them tempting, but 
Gary D. would probably chide me for saying that or considering some 
of the other dirt cheap performance tires.

I see that the SP8000's are still on sale, but it's time for 
something different.

Any input appreciated.

TIA,
Herman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 22:37:21 -0400
From: Michael Fagan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E30 - Help!  Loose Steering - not the usual suspects  (Long)

1987 325ic with 198,000 km.  Sloppy steering (feels like bad tie rods), 
grab the front wheels top and bottom - no play at all.  Repeat at 3 and 
9 o'clock position - lots of play (seems a bit more with left wheel).  
It has new control arms and tie-rods and control arm bushings (less than 
10,000 km).  Under car check confirms that there is no play in any ball 
joints. 

Other symptoms:  At very low speed turns, the steering does not appear 
to turn smoothly (hard to describe - almost like a pulsing in steering 
resistance).  If the front of the car is up on ramps and the steering 
wheel is gently rocked from side to side there is a slight clicking from 
the steering rack (with the engine off).  There is no apparent leakage 
in either steering rack boot, nor has there been any fluid loss.  The 
mounts to the subframe are tight and with no cracks.  Lastly, when 
braking from above 80 km/h (50 mph), the steering wheel shakes violently 
- - but there is no corresponding pulse in the brake to indicate rotor warp.

My guess is a shot steering rack and/or steering column universal 
(though I could not detect any play in the universal).  All diagnostic 
help greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Michael Fagan

1987 325ic
1991 325ica

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 20:25:35 -0700
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 2000 328i BLACK ON TAN FOR SALE

Group,

I won't go into details since I already did that on the website I made.
To that end, the first $16,900 takes it:

http://www.inlacal.com/328

Chris
89 M3
01 X5

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 23:14:20 -0400
From: "Delford Chaffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car

in the 80's I worked with a guy who's daughter was starting college and she
told him she'd found a BMW she'd like to have.  He said "no way in h I'm
going to buy you a BMW". To make a long story short, he bought it, an old
2002, and it ran and ran and ran....

Delford Chaffin
87 535i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 21:47:27 -0700
From: Bora Akyol (BMW) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] re: WTB:  Confused, not exactly sure what diff I WTB...

Maybe you can get a used diff out of a US spec E30 M3, but
would that fit in the back of a 325is?

Bora

On Monday, Sep 22, 2003, at 15:59 US/Pacific, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>
> Chris, thanks for the feedback.  Everything you said is exactly what I
> expected.  Except for that plentiful part, none have fallen in my lap 
> yet,
> but maybe I should actually start calling salvage yards outside the Bay
> Area.  I was hoping someone on the mailing lists would have one to 
> offer...
>
> Scott Miller
> GGC BMW CCA
>
>
>
>
>                       "Chris Pawlowicz"
>                       <[EMAIL PROTECTED]        To:       
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>                       .com>                    cc:       
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>                                                Subject:  re: WTB:  
> Confused, not exactly sure what diff I WTB...
>                       09/22/2003 03:51
>                       PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> scott says
>> So my dilema is, do I buy the pricey 3.91 LSD, which is what I 
>> originally
> wanted,
>> or do I hold out for a 4.10 LSD instead, which I might even be able 
>> to get
>> for less $?
>
> scott
> no, I don't have one for sale, but I do have a 4.10 LSD in my '89 325i 
> and
> can give you some real world feedback on what it's like driving with 
> one..I
> love it!
>
> Cruisin' rpm are about 500rpm higher than with the 3.73.. car feels 
> quick
> and lively no matter what gear it's in now.
>
> Typically driving at 140km/h (not quite 90mph) is 4000rpm.. I've kept 
> it
> there for many thousands of miles and have no problem doing that.. 
> it's not
> too noisy - you quickly get used to it. Mileage is usually around
> 10litres/100km or.. umm.. 25 mpg (with a heavy foot and fast cruisin)
>
> If I poke along at 55mph it's closer to 30mpg.
>
> It's made autocrossing better (never need to go to 1st gear.. can 
> stomp on
> it in 2nd and break the rear end loose at will around the cones).. and 
> top
> speed is not affected (car can't pull to redline in 5th with the 3.73
> anyways.. top speed is around 120mph either way).
>
> I've jumped into regular 325i back to back and the 4.10 just makes the 
> car
> so much more lively (without seeming like it rev's too high). I'd say 
> grab
> a
> 4.10 and be done with it. They are much more plentiful.
>
>
> chrisP
> '89 325i, '99 z3 2.8, '74 2002
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 08:41:34 -0400
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car

For a basic all around reliable good car, I think you'll find it hard to
ever beat any Japanese sedan.  The reason for the price drop is that it's
just not as popular as, say an Accord.  I'm a eurotrash snob, but have to
admit that there's nothing better for get it & forget it than the Japanese
cars.  Sometimes it's nice not to have to always mess with a car.  This
brings me to another thing to keep in mind is where your kid is going to
college--shops & dealers in college towns are notorious for being rip-off
artists.  The less he/she has to deal with them, the better.

Along with the Maximas, you can also consider the G20 & I30 as excellent,
but inexpensive used cars.  The G20 was possibly they best car I've ever
owned--not my favorite, but the best.  That & the little 97 Nissan truck I
leased for 2 years at $79/mo.  Never had to do anything but put gas in them.

Hope this helps,
Lee

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 5:10 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car
> 
> 
> I have a child starting college this week and as in Scott's 
> recent search
> I'm looking at replacing an aging E23. Great car but it's 
> soon to need a
> tranny rebuild and head reconditioning. Just don't see 
> putting that much
> money into it.
> 
> So here's the car question. I notice a lot of Nissan Maxima's 
> seem to fall
> in value pretty quickly. Is there a reason for this? Well I 
> know there's a
> reason, but it is reliability or costly maintenance or just 
> an all around
> crappy car?
> 
> -Kevin
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 06:24:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Timothy Fries <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car

Before my current car I had a '96 Maxima SE which was
a fantastic car.  Over the 4 1/2 years and 66K miles I
did not have any problems.  The engine is one of the
best out there and with the 5-spd it was one of the
best sleepers out there.


> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 5:10 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: [uuc] RE: <OT> college car
> > 
> > 
> > I have a child starting college this week and as
> in Scott's 
> > recent search
> > I'm looking at replacing an aging E23. Great car
> but it's 
> > soon to need a
> > tranny rebuild and head reconditioning. Just don't
> see 
> > putting that much
> > money into it.
> > 
> > So here's the car question. I notice a lot of
> Nissan Maxima's 
> > seem to fall
> > in value pretty quickly. Is there a reason for
> this? Well I 
> > know there's a
> > reason, but it is reliability or costly
> maintenance or just 
> > an all around
> > crappy car?
> > 
> > -Kevin
> > 


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------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6775
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