Thanks Ira.

Some random thoughts/comments/questions on the PID and rotary conversions today.

First off, all is well--all wiring and plumbing seems to have gone fine (with 
one exception, below), and my B2 is now PID'ed and rotary'ed.  Mmmm, sweet 
sweet quiet pump.  Now I need to add anti-vibe stuff on the drip tray and pan.

--The PID comes programmed for Fahrenheit, and I'd like to put it back to 
Celsius--the instructions include a step called "Feed Card", and I have no idea 
what that means.  Any ideas on how to get into the programming menus other than 
temperature?

--The instructions for the rotary say, "we use stainless for the line from the 
pump to the boilers instead of Teflon", but the kit comes with Teflon.  Not a 
big deal, but the Teflon hose came with it's end cut not quite square.  After 
all was re-assembled and pressurized, I had a significant leak at that point 
(Teflon hose to pump connection).  Cut it really square and reinstalled, and 
all was well.

--I jumpered the two wires that used to go to the low reservoir switch.  Not 
sure if this was necessary or not, but did it anyway.

--The stainless water supply line that comes with the pump seems to be a 
proprietary metric thread.  No one at Ace Hardware could match it.  However, 
WLL sends a brass adapter that goes from that to 3/8" flare.  To get from 3/8" 
flare to 1/4" tube took four fittings, but we got it done (3/8 flare female to 
3/8 compression female, then 3/8 compression male to 1/4 female pipe, then 1/4 
male pipe to 1/4 tube--at least I think that's what it was...)  The stainless 
water supply line would require about a 1" hole in the countertop, so I just 
coiled it up inside the machine with the fittings, and then ran 1/4 poly tubing 
out of the machine, through a small hole in the countertop, and then teed it 
into my filtered water line under the sink.

--The pump does not develop more than 8 bar of pressure against a blind PF, 
even with the OPV screwed in all the way.  Todd, I'm hoping you can help 
here--this is obviously not right.

--Not sure the cup tray that comes with the pump conversion is totally 
necessary--the old one seems to still fit.  However, I do like that the new one 
has holes on both sides so all my cups will get some heat instead of just the 
right side.  I like that the old one is not screwed in place, so I can quickly 
remove it with not tools to adjust the OPV, look for leaks, etc.  If you 
haven't drilled in stainless before, it can be tricky.  You definitely need a 
good center punch and ideally a stepped bit and/or drill press.  And hang on 
tight when you punch through.

--I did put the yellow with green tracer wire to ground (with other similar 
wires just below the PID), and all is working fine.  I think I guessed right.  
My dad always said, "I'd rather be lucky than good..."

--If you develop water leaks in the pump, they drain directly on the relay.  
But it seems to have pretty good protection since my pump ran all over it with 
the teflon line problem.

--When drilling for the PID relay, you can use one existing hole from the old 
pump foot, if you're replacing the vibe pump also.  The foot towards the PID is 
the one that's in a perfect location.

Think that's it for now, will see how shots are in the morning with the low 
pressure.

Thanks all, 
bmc

On Mar 12, 2011, at 6:39 PM, Ira wrote:

> At 03:12 PM 3/12/2011, you wrote:
>> On the rotary, directions say to extend the blue and brown wires on the 
>> rotary to the existing pump wires.  Can I safely assume that blue goes to 
>> blue, and brown to red?
> 
> Given that it's AC, I'm guessing it doesn't matter.
> 
> 
>> Also, the rotary has a green wire with yellow trace but no directions on 
>> where that one goes.  I'm sure it's probably a ground.  Anyone?
> 
> Traditionally, that European for ground.
> 
> Ira 
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