oooh, Ira - you just made my day!! for so long now, i just make a short flush and brew one drink, then later in the day i do it again, so i figured that is the perfect drinking habit for the mod. however, i remember when other machines like Alex Izzo featured it i thought it was was bad idea, but apparrantly it has it's merits. i still plan to maintain the steam boiler water so it doesn't acquire too many dissolved solids, tho. i e-mailed Todd about this and he never responded, so i thought i would ask here on the forum. iv'e got a coupla wire scraps, but not sure what gauge and i know they are pretty short. so i might take you up on your friendly offer! Ira - you are the man!!! thanks again - Dennis
_____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ira Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 11:55 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Switch for Steam Boiler At 07:01 AM 3/23/2011, you wrote: hello, i would like to modify my B1 with an on/off switch for the steam boiler. i assume a 110v 15a switch will do. can someone give me advice about where to tap in the switch? thanks, -Dennis It looks like you'll need a DPDT switch rated 15 amps or more at 120VAC. Truth be told, you could survive with 8 or 10 amp but 15 amp switches are so common there's no point in using less, something like this: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/STS-98/DPDT-HEAVY-DUTY-TOGGL E-SWITCH/1.html . All that follows is based on the schematic on page 9 of the Brewtus Compendium. You'll need to remove 2 of the wires from the pressurestat and connect the pressurestat terminals to the center pins on the switch, then connect the 2 removed wires so that the machine works normal in one of the positions. As this point you've essentially just cut the above 1.2 wire and the below 1.2 wire from the pressurestat and put a switch in place that allows disconnecting or connecting both of those wires. At this point flipping that switch should stop both boilers from heating and in the other position the machine should work normal. when that works, , then connect the remaining 2 terminals on the other side together and then connect them to the above 1.2 wire. This should mean that in one position it works normal and in the other it always thinks the pressurestat has fired and the brew boiler is enabled. Make sure someone confirms my plan, but I'm about 99.5% sure that's correct. You should be able to do it without cutting any wires so it can be put back to stock. Well except for the hole for the switch. Use good wire. I can sell you some if you want, I have black and white 14ga braid covered silicon I keep around for stuff like this. Note that you will lose some ability to do rapid consecutive shots as the water entering the brew boiler will now be cold when it's usually hot. Ira -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en.
