Knock on wood but have had very few problems with brewtus - however gotta
say that I love reading the stuff this group does. very techie and very
hands on. Thanks for all the input and help - (but hopefully not for a long
time!)




On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 5:05 AM, wsmckenz <[email protected]> wrote:

> So I'm completely stuck on getting my temp sensor removed. I tried top
> file all the gunk from around edges, and a 2 ft breaker bar, but no luck.
> My question is, how powerful an impact wrench do I need? Does it need to be
> an air gun, or can I use one of those Ryobis they sell at Home Depot for a
> 100 bucks?
>
> On Monday, July 16, 2012 12:35:00 AM UTC-5, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> About 3 weeks ago my 8 year old brewtus 2 stopped heating up. Pid showed
>> room temp. Checked the usual: no steam leaking from reverse pressure relief
>> valve, the overtemp switches on top of boilers were untripped and had
>> continuity. I couldn't see anything wrong.
>>
>> Called WLL, they said it could be a heating element and told me how to
>> diagnose. Sure enough the brew boiler heating element had 200ohms of
>> resistance, shows continuity with multitester. The steam boiler heating
>> element had many thousands/no continuity.
>>
>> Called back to order heating element. After taking my order tech
>> helpfully suggested I could swich the bottom two wires on the pstat which
>> causes heating priority to go to brew boiler (brew boiler previously didn't
>> get hot because prioritized steam boiler never warmed.) This would keep me
>> in the coffee until I could replace the steam boiler's heating element.
>>
>> Wow. Super helpful tech. Quick with answers and nice.
>>
>> Over the years I've had a fair bit of experience with the brewtus'
>> insides:
>> - Many rebuilds of reverse pressure relief valve (high temp o-ring
>> replaced every two years)
>> - On off switch (brittle and broke)
>> - Original controller died replaced with pid/new temp sensor
>> - PStat (leaked steam, then broke)
>> - Both overtemp sensors (plastic rotted)
>> - Replaced OPV (mine was old bad original one and couldn't adjust brew
>> pressure to be low enough, got the nice new one with brass screw, highly
>> recommended)
>>
>> Overall I gotta say this wasn't the hardest job. Most involved was
>> putting in the pid kit. Total time was maybe 4 hours, not including the
>> drive to service station, but including all the extra futzing like building
>> new insulation.
>>
>> I'm not going to walk through the whole thing but offer some suggestions:
>> 1) Don't even try to get the heating element out with your puny tools.
>> Forget the 4 foot breaker bar. I have a huge vice and a big wrench and I
>> couldn't make it budge. Finally I went to a local service station
>> and borrowed their air gun with correct socket. Clamp boiler in a vice and
>> the element comes out in about 10 seconds with no hassle or damage.
>> Unbelievable how effective the air gun's rattle action is.
>> 2) If your machine is old like mine each fittng will be stuck and come
>> loose with a clank or creak. Be sure and have a variety of open wrenches
>> available. You'll use at least 5 different sizes. Hopefully you have some
>> with small heads because some fittings are are difficult to reach. Be SURE
>> to support whatever the fitting is screwed into with another wrench. Come
>> on, invest in some good tools. Get a FULL set of high quality open ended
>> wrenches, a good phillips, some hex sockets and a socket wrench. With good
>> tools this job is make much easier. Keep the adjustable wrenches away from
>> the brass, too easy to damage the fittings (assuming you can even reach).
>> Some of the craftsman are nice.
>> 3) Have a big roll of teflon tape handy for reassembly. There's lots of
>> fittings to wrap when you reassemble. Stuff works great to seal and aids
>> disassembly. Everything I've previously reassembled with teflon comes
>> straight out, so do it for next time.
>> 4) The steam boiler is hard to remove. Not sure the right way but I took
>> out the brew boiler so that I had room to unwind the steam boiler from a
>> pipe that goes in its base.
>> 5) The steam boiler has many fittings and two are for its heat exchanger.
>> My heat exchanger was full of scale. Tons of it. Rest of machine was very
>> clean. Took 20/30 minutes to clean all that scale out. I used a screw
>> driver to break up the pieces then filled the boiler and shook it to pour
>> out the flakes. Got it all out.
>> 6) When washing the steam boiler the thin fiberglass insulation all
>> broken up and washed away. Had to make a new blanky for the steam boiler. I
>> used some wool felt I had around. We'll see how that lasts. Machine is
>> certainly quieter now.
>> 7) The busted element looked fine. Nothing wrong except no continuity so
>> broken inside somehow.
>> 8) Machine will brew with no heat in steam boiler, but has trouble
>> holding temp for a shot. Takes a while to heatup. Not good. Very happy to
>> have steam boiler back to provide hot refill to brew boiler.
>> 9) Wrap all the threads on the boiler with teflon before you put the
>> boilers back into the machine.
>> 10) Almost all my plastic spade connector covers are yellow and super
>> brittle. They shattered on touch. I built new covers using outdoor rated
>> heat shrink electrical tubing. Local electronic store sells it for $3 for 4
>> feet. The wires to the steam boiler's heating elemet also looked like
>> they'd seen heat and water. I covered them with heat shrink too.
>> 11) When restarting machine remember to refill both boilers by running
>> pump. Do it before machine has a chance to get hot. Keep water handy to
>> refill water tank while this is happening.Fortunately my tubing and pump
>> still had prime so worked great. Took a few minutes before water came out
>> of brew head.
>>
>> Started machine up, noticed it takes longer to heat up when steam boiler
>> has priority. Worked first time, pulled a shot of vivace and all was well
>> again. Oh, and machine seems lots quieter with the large felt blanket on
>> the steam boiler.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Eric
>>
>>
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