While this is a very easy modification to do, I am assuming that you have 
general electrical ability and understand how to safely make these changes. 
 I make no guarantees that this will work with all machines.  Please 
attempt at your own risk.


You will need a single pole double throw switch, a couple short pieces of 
wire, and some wire terminals.  Depending on the switch you may need some 
blue ring terminals and some spade terminals (yellow and blue).  You will 
also need a wire crimp tool to secure the terminals. 


 There is one wire going to the top of the pressure stat shown here, its 
the white wire.  That is the wire that is supplying 110 V.  You can verify 
this with a voltmeter.  

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l9Jr82dtMDs/VWN-_pZShFI/AAAAAAAAORM/Vpmi7GjD4f0/s1600/pressure%2Bstat.jpg>

Remove that wire and run to the center terminal of a single pole double 
throw switch like this:

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_c45nsDa0fU/VWOAKVrpIGI/AAAAAAAAORY/SjGZWAmZIwM/s1600/switch.jpg>

Make sure that the switch is rated for at least 20A and 120VAC.

Now add a wire from the top terminal of the switch back to the top terminal 
of the pressure stat.

Now you should have one terminal left on your new switch.  Run a wire from 
that terminal (bottom) back to the pressure stat.  This wire will need to 
be attached to the center terminal of the pressure stat, along with the 
existing wire.  To do this, remove the existing wire from the center pin of 
the pressure stat and cut off the terminal.  Using a large (yellow) spade 
connector, insert both wires (the one from the switch and the existing one 
you just cut the connector off of) and crimp them securely.  Now attach the 
termial back onto the center pin of the pressure stat.  


The last step is to drill a hole in the front of your machine, where you 
would like the switch.  I chose to put it right under the main power 
switch.  

Thats it!  


Here are a couple of wiring diagrams I made to demonstrate the change in 
the circuit.  


Before:

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6gxyJMUCgZo/VWOGUy3ZSII/AAAAAAAAORo/5uwT4H1cWL4/s1600/without%2Bswitch.jpg>

After; 

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rtFFmuk01sk/VWOGdYL_LwI/AAAAAAAAORw/k5SZ6Kq0xak/s1600/with%2Bswitch.jpg>

The switch is labeled I.V.





On Saturday, May 23, 2015 at 2:18:39 PM UTC-7, Skip Lord wrote:
>
> I would be interested to see what you did as I want to do the same thing 
> to mine. 
> Thank you.
> Skip
>
> On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 10:50 AM, Ryan Robold <[email protected] 
> <javascript:>> wrote:
>
>> I recently purchased an older brewtus double boiler machine that did not 
>> have the option to turn off the steam boiler.
>>
>> Since I only make an occasional milk drink I wanted to see if it was 
>> possible to add on that feature.
>>
>> I found that its pretty easy modification that just requires a switch and 
>> swapping a few wires around.
>>
>> I have the older ako temp control but it will work just as well with the 
>> gicar pid.
>>
>> The only issue I could see this causing would be slightly less stable 
>> boiler temps if pulling a lot of shots in a row since you don't have the HX 
>> preheating the water before it enters the brew boiler.  I did not have more 
>> than 1 degree of fluctuation between shots on my machine with the steam 
>> boiler off.
>>
>> If anyone is interested I can put up the instructions on how I did it.
>>
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