I was so happy to get that original sealant out. My original elements took 
minutes to come free using blasts from a giant air-wrench at a local 
service station, and then I took a good long time to gently pry that 
sealant out of the threads with a pick. Nasty stuff. Permanent. It made 
element removal into a pretty major endeavor since it needed so much 
convincing to come free.

When I replaced my elements I used a few wraps of yellow plumbing tape. Its 
been years and years and no issue. I happily took the elements out to do a 
descale, no stress.

On Tuesday, December 1, 2020 at 3:54:46 PM UTC-8 bmacpiper wrote:

> Jim, regardless of your problem or solution, I loved reading your post! 
> Part of me hopes you fail to fix it, so I can look forward to more comedy!
>
> I’ve used both white and yellow teflon tape and never had a leak with 
> either. As you said, clean joint, follow mfr recommendations on number of 
> wraps, and forget about it. The p-tex is fine too but unnecessarily 
> complex. The Expobar stuff works great, but you have about 1.69 nanoseconds 
> to get the part turned to the right orientation before it sets up. 0.69 
> nanoseconds if the machine/part is warm/hot when you’re doing it.
>
> Best of luck, and wishing you continued donkey-blinding espresso in the 
> near future.
>
> b
>
> On Dec 1, 2020, at 15:40, Joseph Helminiak <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I replaced mine and just used white teflon tape.
>
> Joseph (Joe) Helminiak
> (314) 556-4488
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 8:01 PM James Mitchell <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Things aren't going so well with our Brewtus II - Katherine was making 
>> our morning shots, and as she turned towards the sink with its drip tray: 
>> "There was this 'Swizz. Pop., BANG!' and all the kitchen lights went out."
>>
>> No, it wasn't our neighbors playing with an RPG - it was the blessed brew 
>> boiler heating element going South and taking out a GFCI socket in a fairly 
>> spectacular fashion:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C0w2AIcqeqiuG6vqQHi5FW9MmCvCIcL7/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> It looks like there was water intrusion near the element's base, and when 
>> it flashed to steam it ripped the element apart. The loud bang was a very 
>> marginal GFCI socket failing to deal with a dead short on a twenty amp 
>> circuit.
>>
>> The circuit is now on a 15 amp breaker, there's a medical-grade dual 
>> socket rated for 15 amp continuous service, and a new boiler element is due 
>> this week from WLL.
>>
>> No one appears to have stock on the Expobar-specific thread sealant - 
>> Stefano recommends an italian sealant which looks very good - which I'd 
>> buy, but USPS from Oregon to North Carolina is pretty glacial at the best 
>> of times, and we're getting impatient.
>>
>> The local HVAC folks who keep our 75 year old steam heat system working 
>> swear by Permatex 56521: "It applies easily, sets up quickly, remains 
>> flexible, and in a clean joint - never, ever leaks." 
>>
>> 56521 has no NSF rating, and its MDS lists ethanol as a primary carrier, 
>> with 1% Methanol as an additional carrier. While folks have maintained that 
>> K's coffee: "Could stun a horse & blind a donkey..." I've no desire to 
>> actualize their experience, and will use the sealant only on the the upper 
>> threads with 4-5 wraps of teflon tape on the lower threads to isolate it 
>> from the brew water.
>>
>> There appears to be good water flow through the E61, with no portafilter 
>> the Elka pump will fill an 8 oz glass in less than 15 seconds - I'll pull 
>> the water level probe, clean and inspect it for continuity and scale, to 
>> eliminate it causing an underfill condition.
>>
>> Much past this point, my troubleshooting gets fairly mystical, since the 
>> volume of water flow through the grouphead belies issues with the parker 
>> valve or Elka pump, my most popular theories tend to include demons, 
>> Maxwell Houses, and extremely bad JuJu.
>>
>> Cheers & Thanks
>> Jim
>>
>>
>>
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