On 15/5/23 08:19, Sam Macaluso wrote:
Still can't trace as to what is tripping the RCD when the steam boiler
kicks in. I've replaced the element and it's still doing it!!
On Wednesday, May 3, 2023 at 2:28:53 PM UTC+10 Sam Macaluso wrote:
Funny you say that because if I disconnect the water level sensor
from the control box, it doesnt trip but causes the pump to
activate, as soon as I plug it back in, the pump stops and it trips.
I'm assuming its tripping because the pressurestat is sending
power to the steam boiler.
I've tested for continuity between the rod and the boiler case and
nothing.
Couple of things:
(1) If you move the STEAM boiler connections to the BREW boiler, then
turn it on - does it trip? That isolates the element. Don't, of course,
leave it like that for more than a minute or so! If it trips still,
then the fault lies with the wiring back to the mains supply somewhere, OR,
(2) Does it trip when the pump runs? Could be something with the
pump.. Mine has an Ulka vibratory pump and a reservoir, given how the
pump is made it'd be difficult to get a fault to earth; but it's still
possible..
Assuming (2) is OK, the stuff in circuit is the thermostat at the top of
the steam boiler, the pressurestat and the associated wiring - including
the red Neon on the front panel. If you disconnect the wire from the
boiler and power it up and it trips, then the fault lies up that path.
This is the same diagnostic as (1) but without a high current load. You
can remove the connectors from the thermostat and short them together to
isolate that. The pressurestat can be removed from circuit by shorting
the mains feed wire to the wire feeding the element/thermostat. On mine,
the neon plugs in too, easily removed. If those fail to produce a win,
I'd be looking at the physical wires and connectors...
My machine is 240VAC, and doesn't seem to have exactly the same circuit
diagram as is shown in the "Brewtus Compendium" PDF you can download
from the group files, but the steam side is identical so I assume yours
is too :)
While it is tedious being systematic, you do need to be systematic... A
multimeter is helpful, but sometimes fails to find high impedance shorts
that only show up when significant voltage/current is applied. Plus you
need to remember to constantly un-plug the machine while messing about
internally... At least, that's what I do having been bitten by something
someone else 'turned off' once :)
Cheers
/Kevin
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