Hi Will.
I had a similar situation, addressed, partially, by replacing the 
overpressure valve and the valve seat on the steam wand. My OPV was getting 
stuck open, so needed replacing. After replacing the OPV, noticed similar 
issue, cycling steam heat. The valve seat on the steam wand was leaking 
with a slow water drip from the wand. Replacing the seat helped somewhat, 
though I still have a slight drip from it. My steam boiler runs between 1.3 
and 1.1 bar and cycles every 2-3 minutes or so. I suspect if I replaced the 
valve seat again that I would get a more steady, less energy intensive 
steam cycle.
(I bought the pieces from WLL. Make sure you get 2x o-rings per side, steam 
and water, if you're doing the rebuild. The teflon valve seat I received 
didn't fit well as it was a bit oversized in diameter and undersized in 
depth. I know that they are supposed to be tight, but I couldn't get it to 
press into the seat receptacle. If I get motivated, I'll tear it down and 
measure the seat receptacle and try and find one that fits a bit better. )

On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 4:27:13 AM UTC-7 Will wrote:

> Hi All, 
> Today I changed the over pressure safety valve on the steam boiler (1.8 
> bar cert.), as it was leaking-  the heating element switched on and off 
> every 10 seconds, and steam pressure was around 0.9-1 bar. 
> I am now *fairly* confident there Isn't a leak (happy days).
> My question is, where should the steam pressure sit, and how long should 
> the interval be between the heating element going on and off?  I'm 
> concerned the element is still cycling too often - on at 0.8 bar (steam 
> gauge reading) for 2-3 seconds, pressure rises to 1.2 bar, and then falls 
> to 0.8 bar in 30ish seconds. (All at rest 40 mins after start up).
>
> Appreciate anyones thoughts, comments and experiences- especially timings 
> between steam boiler element cycling off and on! 
> Thanks, 
>
> Will 
>
>
>

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