Why disconnect the elements? There’s no other path between them when 
machine is off. Why doesn’t it work to simply test resistance between each 
of the element leads while they’re connected and machine is off?

Mine both read 13 ohms.

On Thursday, July 11, 2024 at 6:50:10 AM UTC-7 Murray Roblin wrote:

> Bob, 
> It's pretty obvious when you look under each boiler. You'll see connectors 
> leading to each of the boiler heating elements, 2 per element. Just undo 
> one of the connectors, tape it to keep from shorting it out, and run your 
> test. It's a bit cumbersome because the machine is heavy and you're working 
> underneath the boilers, but it's straightforward. 
>
> You can do it with the machine upright and the cover off, or you can leave 
> the cover on and invert the machine - there are two large access holes for 
> the elements punched through the bottom of the frame. Personally, I'd do it 
> from above.
> Murray
>
> On Thursday, July 11, 2024 at 12:37:07 AM UTC-7 Bob Berwick wrote:
>
>> Joe
>> Thx. I have the same issue. 
>> Is it obvious how to disconnect both?
>> Thx 
>> Bob
>>
>> On Jul 11, 2024, at 3:10 AM, Joseph Helminiak <[email protected]> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> To diagnose it correctly. Unplug the steam boiler, heating element. Then 
>> try to use the machine if it does not trip the GFI then it is the steam 
>> boiler heating element. Just to verify you can then plug that one back in 
>> and unplug the Brew boiler and verify it trips the GFI. This way you can 
>> troubleshoot it without any cost or even using a multimeter
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 10, 2024, 9:18 AM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey there David!
>>>
>>> It’s almost always the steam boiler element. You can check resistance 
>>> across the terminals of the element (power off, wires removed), but this 
>>> frequently fails to diagnose the element. It’s often the case, much like 
>>> you describe, that the element doesn’t short until it’s hot, thus giving a 
>>> false negative when cold. I suppose you could have the case off and once it 
>>> heats/shorts, quickly power down and remove wires to test. If memory 
>>> serves, “normal” would be in the low teens for ohms.
>>>
>>> But I’d bet dollars to doughnuts it’s the steam element.
>>>
>>> And yes, removal is a pain, but you can do it. Hardest part is securing 
>>> the boiler in a vise without damaging it.
>>>
>>> Best of luck!
>>> Ben
>>>
>>> > On Jul 10, 2024, at 02:56, David Bengtsson <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> > 
>>> > Hello espresso lovers,
>>> > 
>>> > My good old Brewtus II needs some attention.
>>> > It turns on fine. Pump is working and I hear the refill of the boilers.
>>> > 
>>> > The temperature on the AKO display is not increasing much and after
>>> > 3-4 minutes the machine trips my "Residual Current Device"
>>> > 
>>> > So I guess I need a new heating element. Do you guys think it is the
>>> > steam boiler or the brew boiler that is broken?
>>> > 
>>> > I own a multimeter. How can I check the elements and figure out which
>>> > one to change?
>>> > 
>>> > (I have seen previous conversations about how much force I need to
>>> > remove the element, so I will be prepared with the heavy artillery...
>>> > )
>>> > 
>>> > Blue Skies,
>>> > /David
>>> > 
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