From: 
http://www.douglasadams.com/dna/articles.html

I keep meaning to post this, but I never seem to remember to do so.
This is an excerpt of my all-time favorite article by the late, great
Douglas Adams.  It was included as part of the "Salmon of Doubt"
collection, and the original can be found at the link above (his site).
I would be happy to forward it in its entirety to anyone who requests
offlist.

To those of us celebrating a holiday today, Happy Thanksgiving!  To
those of us who aren't, Happy Thursday! :-)
Jon



Excerpt: 
Riding the Rays
By Douglas Adams
 
Every country is like a particular type of person. America is like a
belligerent, adolescent boy, Canada is like an intelligent, 35 year old
woman. Australia is like Jack Nicholson. It comes right up to you and
laughs very hard in your face in a highly threatening and engaging
manner. In fact it's not so much a country as such, more a sort of thin
crust of semi-demented civilisation caked around the edge of a vast, raw
wilderness, full of heat and dust and hopping things. 

Tell most Australians that you like their country and they will give a
dry laugh and say 'Well, it's the last place left now isn't it?', which
is the sort of worrying thing that Australians say. You don't quite know
what they mean but it worries you in case they're right.

Just knowing that the place is lurking there on the other side of the
world where we can't see it is oddly unsettling, and I'm always looking
for excuses to go even if only to keep an eye on it. I also happen to
love it. Most of it I haven't even seen yet, but there's one place that
I've long wanted to revisit, because I had some frustratingly unfinished
business there.

And just a few weeks ago I suddenly found the excuse I'd been looking
for.

I was in England at the time. I could tell I was in England because I
was sitting in the rain under a wet blanket in a muddy field listening
to some fucking orchestra in a kind of red tent playing hits from
American movie soundtracks. Is there anywhere else in the world where
people would do such a thing? Anywhere? Would they do it in Italy? Would
they do it in Tierra del Fuego? Would they do it on Baffin Island? No.
Even in Japan where national pastimes include ripping out your own
intestines with a knife, I think they would draw the line.

In between the squalls of rain and trumpets I fell into conversation
with an engaging fellow who turned out to be my sister's next door
neighbour up there in Warwickshire, which was where the sodden field
was. His name was Martin Pemberton and he was an inventor and designer.
Amongst the things he had invented or designed, he told me, were various
crucial bits of tube trains, a wonderful new form of thinking toaster
and also a Sub Bug.

What, I asked politely, was a Sub Bug?

A Sub Bug, he explained, was a jet-propelled underwater buggy sort of
thing. A bit like the front half of a dolphin. You hold on to the rear
and it pulls you through the sea at depths of up to thirty feet.
Remember that bit in the movie of Thunderball? A bit like those things.
Great for exploring coral reefs. 

I'm not sure if that's exactly what he said. He may have said 'azure
sea' or 'limpid depths'. Probably not, but that was the picture in my
brain as I sat in the blustery rain watching an escaped umbrella totter
past the bandstand.

I had to try one. I said so to Martin. I may even have wrestled him to
the ground and knelt on his windpipe, everything was a bit of a blur to
be honest, but anyway he said he would be delighted to let me try one.
The question was where? I could try it anywhere, even just in the local
swimming pool. No. The trick was to get to try it in Australia, on the
Great Barrier Reef. I needed an angle, though, if I was going to get
some hapless magazine to stump up a trip for me to try it which, believe
me, is the only way to travel. 

Then I remembered my unfinished business in Australia.

There's an island I had visited briefly once ten years ago in the
Whitsundays, at the southern end of the Reef. It was a pretty dreadful
place, called Hayman Island. The island itself was beautiful but the
resort that had been built on it was not and I had ended up there by
mistake, exhausted, at the end of an author tour. I hated it. The
brochure was splattered with words like 'international' and 'superb' and
'sophisticated', and what this meant was that they had Muzak pumped out
of the palm trees and themed fancy dress parties every night. By day I
would sit at a table by the pool getting slowly sozzled on Tequila
Sunrises and listening to the conversations at nearby tables which
seemed mostly to be about road accidents involving heavy goods vehicles.
In the evening I would retire woozily to my room in order to avoid the
sight of maddened drunk Australians rampaging through the night in grass
skirts or cowboy hats or whatever the theme of the evening was, while I
watched Mad Max movies on the hotel video. These also featured a lot of
road accidents, several of which involved heavy goods vehicles. I
couldn't even find anything to read. The hotel shop only had two decent
books and I'd written both of them.

On one occasion I talked to an Australian couple on the beach. I said
"Hello, my name is Douglas, don't you hate the Muzak?" They said they
didn't as a matter of fact. They thought it was very nice and
international and sophisticated. They lived on a sheep farm some 850
miles west of Brisbane where all they ever heard, they said, was
nothing. I said that must be very nice and they said that it got rather
boring after a while, and that a little light Muzak was balm to them.
They refused to go along with my assertion that it was like having Spam
stuffed in your ears all day and after a while the conversation petered
out.

I made my escape from Hayman Island and ended up on a scuba diving boat
on Hook Reef where I had the best week of my life, exploring the coral,
diving with a wild variety of fish, dolphins, sharks and even a minke
whale.

It was only after I had left Hayman Island that I heard of something
really major that I had missed there.

There was a bay tucked round on the other side, called Manta Ray Bay,
that was full, as you might expect, of manta rays: huge, graceful,
underwater flying carpets, one of the most beautiful animals in the
world. The man who told me about it said that they were such placid and
benign creatures that they would even allow people to ride on their
backs underwater. 

And I had missed it. For ten years I fretted about this.

Meanwhile I had also heard that Hayman Island itself had changed out of
all recognition. It had been bought up by the Australian airline Ansett,
who had spent a squillion dollars on ripping the Muzak out of the palm
trees and transforming the resort into something that was not only
international and superb and sophisticated and so on, but also
breath-takingly expensive and, by all accounts, actually pretty good.

So here, I thought, was the angle. I would write an article about taking
a Sub Bug all the way to Hayman Island, finding a friendly manta ray and
doing, effectively, a comparative test drive. 

Now any sane, rational person might say that that was a thoroughly
stupid idea, and indeed a lot of them did. However, this is that
article: a comparative test drive between an underwater
propeller-driven, blue and yellow one person Sub Bug, and a giant manta
ray.

Did it work out?

Guess.
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