The lead-free solders I use all have antimony in them instead of lead.
They aren't pure tin. I've been meaning to take HP's course in the
chemistry of lead-free solders, but I haven't yet.
I have no trouble at all making good joins with them. You just have to
have the iron about 50 K hotter.
We'll see if they grow any whiskers.
On 6/3/2015 4:25 PM, Bill Crowell wrote:
Hakko is a good tool. I have a non-digital, but temperature controlled
unit and I’ve gotten a lot of use out of it.
What is even more important is the type of solder. Some points:
1. Most of us were trained to use good old 60/40 tin/lead. This
produces marginal results in hand-soldering. It is more for flow
soldering and piping.
2. The political do-gooders decided to be “RoHS” meaning 100% tin.
I’ve yet to produce a satisfactory hand solder out of pure tin. AND,
it’s a great boon for electronics companies in the age of disposable
everything as 100% tin grows “whiskers” in humidity - crystallization
that will eventually short out traces on a circuit board. KJ5Y had one
of those in a gizmo not long ago.
3. The best solder for hand soldering is 63/37 eutectic solder. I was
taught this by another ham who was trained by the Navy back in the
day. With a good rosin flux, you can make a nice connection that will
last. 3% silver is a bit harder, but some prefer it.
With respect to “RoHS”. One of my XYL’s masters degrees is in
Environmental Engineering. She has absolutely no worries about lead on
circuitboards leeching out of modern land fills.
That’s my 2-cents worth, ($75 under Obamacare).
73
N4HPG
On Jun 3, 2015, at 4:16 PM, Jonathan Guthrie via BVARC
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
The Hakko is a good choice. The important thing, I think, is the
temperature control. Don't get anything that isn't temperature
controlled.
The exception I would make to that is the iron you need to solder the
braid to PL-259's. That needs a big honking chunk of hot metal to
work properly. I think the best iron to use for that is one they
sell to the guys who do stained glass. I don't know that they make
irons that have a temperature control and have a tip that has enough
metal to work in that application.
On 6/3/2015 3:51 PM, Jon Noxon via BVARC wrote:
Kevin,
My current choice would be this one:
http://www.frys.com/product/7550776?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
I purchased an earlier non-digital version a few years ago and love
it. It is a bit expensive, but should last for years, and parts and
tips are readily available.
Also check EPO as they have several models to choose from. If you
just need a cheap iron and some solder, let me know and I’ll donate
one of my old ones, all retired after the Hakko purchase.
Good luck,
Jon / KF5TFJ
On Jun 3, 2015, at 3:06 PM, Kevin Thornsberry via BVARC
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I have an [audio] microphone cord that I need to repair so I'll use
this as an excuse to outfit myself with a serviceable soldering
iron or gun and some appropriate solder/flux for my new ham hobby
as well. I assume my primary use would be soldering connectors on
ground cables and antennae leads.
I would welcome any recommendations.
Thanks
Kevin Thornsberry W5KLT
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Jonathan Guthrie KA8KPN
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