Ron, I agree a pipe is not the best ground, most likely is also not 10 ft in 
the ground. All new homes, or new electrical services are now required to have 
an intersystem grounding block. This is a terminal block mounted next to the 
electrical panel to which the phone co, cable TV co, satellite Co, etc can 
connect there grounds. The intersystem grounding block is connected to the 
grounding system of the electrical service. You could install a ground rod next 
to the pipe ground but bonding it to your station ground (assuming the station 
ground is bonded to the house ground) is most likely enough. Since DSL uses 
small gage wire, the resistance to high voltage surge limits the amount of 
current. Robert

 

 

From: BVARC <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ron Bosch via BVARC
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2022 7:13 AM
To: BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB <[email protected]>; john Parmalee 
<[email protected]>
Cc: Ron Bosch <[email protected]>; Robert Polinski 
<[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [BVARC] grounding

 

Robert,

At my installation the only one I am really concerned about is the ground for 
the DSL into my house (NOT installed by myself) that is a pipe, not a rod.  I 
clamped a ground wire to a sanded portion of the pipe, and bonded it to my 
station ground, but I think the pipe thing is a real bad idea.  Given that it 
is an AT&T thing, do you have any suggestions other than what I have done?

 

Ron

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

From: Robert Polinski via BVARC <mailto:[email protected]> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2022 8:29 PM
To: john Parmalee <mailto:[email protected]> ; BRAZOS VALLEY AMATEUR RADIO CLUB 
<mailto:[email protected]> 
Cc: Robert Polinski <mailto:[email protected]> 
Subject: Re: [BVARC] grounding

 

John, they do make thread together rods, when I did commercial communications I 
have used them at comm sites. Here, a 10ft ground rod is fine as are wet gumbo 
soil makes a pretty good ground. The NEC requires 2 ground rods or a ground rod 
and a ufer ground, which can be rebar in the slab, metal water line or metal 
bldg. if in contact with the earth via rebar or poles. I usually install 2 
rods. Most 10 ft ground are easy to push in the ground with just your hands. I 
just a few weeks ago installed additional rods at a hams house in the Heights. 
I wired a home in Elgin, just outside of Austin. Had to install horizonal 
ground rods as the ground was solid rock 2 ft down. I always tie to an existing 
rod but always add an additional rod as you never know if the old ground rod is 
10ft or 18” Here in the Houston area, testing is not necessary because of the 
soil, but as the video shows, it is a neat test. You are correct in your bends 
in the grounding conductor, they will act as a choke if made sharp, also, you 
should no run the ground wire in metal conduit for the same reason unless you 
bond the ground wire to the conduit at both ends.  As far a lightning goes, 
remember, all the wiring the strike travels thru on the way to the earth has 
resistance & inductance, so by the time it gets in the circuit the voltage & 
current are greatly reduced, still high, but since the duration is short, a 
good grounding system will dissipate quickly.  Robert    

 

From: BVARC <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > On 
Behalf Of john Parmalee via BVARC
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2022 6:31 PM
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> 
Cc: john Parmalee <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >
Subject: Re: [BVARC] grounding

 

  

>From what the great video says, if you are comfortable working with 120V the 
>simplest way to check out a ground rod is to see how much current it will draw 
>and do the math.  Don't attempt this without experience working with a live 
>circuit.  I have been told by licensed electricians that when a new service is 
>turned up if there is the stub of a ground rod sticking out of the ground it 
>is good. No testing required.

The thing I don't know is where to get the ground rod to ground rod connections 
and the ground rods with the blunt ends so they can match the previously driven 
rod.  Lowes only carries the 8 or it 10-foot rods and the coupling to the flex 
wire to the service box.  I checked Amazon and found nothing.  I am told the 
local rental yard will rent a hammer drill and the ground rod driving adapter.  

 

Another comment regarding the ability of a ground to carry a lightning strike.  
All bends of the ground wire should have the gentlest bends possible.  A strike 
of lightning is a very fast rise time having many harmonics.  We know this 
because we can hear lightning almost to the VHF bands, A bend will look like an 
inductor and raise the instant ohmic value of a ground rod.  On the other hand, 
a few turns on a coax or power source lead will increase the ohms to you rig.it 
will not protect against a direct hit but might fend off some induced current 
from a nearby strike. In south Florida it is common to tie several knots in 
your modem phone line.  In Michigan they wrap a phone line around a ¼” bolt , 
some washers and a nut.. 

 

John Parmalee

[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> 

281-380-3811 

K5VGM WI2XLJ

In a message dated 5/23/2022 7:54:42 PM Central Standard Time, [email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]>  writes: 

 

If any one is interested in ground rod resistance, you can watch the link 
below. One thing I want watchers to note, they have 2 50ft ground rods 
connected together, they hook the hot side of a 120v ckt to them and it only 
pulls 13 amps (not enough to trip a breaker), that is why the grounding system 
must have a bond back to the power co ground always. Note this is not related 
to the RF grounds used as a counterpoise to an antenna system other than they 
will be tied together at a point. Robert

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg6G5VUSsWA 

 

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