I bought a Force 12 beam, for 40M, 20M, 15M and 10M from a fellow TDXS ham when he left Houston area.  It has been in my garage ever since... a few years.
Anyone interested in buying it let me know via email first....
Have a great day.
Bob Hardie    W5UQ   Magnolia, TX

Bob H. W5UQ.com

On 5/25/2022 2:17 PM, Gus Bernard via BVARC wrote:
Attached see the Motorola R65 manual I think Robert is referring to. I don't know if there's a newer version.

BTW, salt ( with moisture) works well to improve ground rod conductivity if you can get it down the hole.  But as Robert says, it kills grass and won't last forever.

Gus K5GMB

On Wed, May 25, 2022 at 11:19 AM Robert Polinski via BVARC <[email protected]> wrote:

    John, Hubbell & Nvent-Erico both make threaded ground rods. I
    think both need a threaded coupling for both. Chemical grounds
    work but are seldom used around here, they become less effective
    over time, and need care to install as most use a sodium  based
    chemical the corrosion factor is high, also no grass will grow
    around the rod for years. The practice here and in most locals is
    to use multiple rods 6-10ft apart. That is the practice at most
    all cell phone sites. Motorola published a grounding guide for
    communications sites, deals with best practices in grounding and
    lightning protection. Do not recall the publication # but it is
    online It is Standards and Guidelines for Communication Sites. Due
    note the book is 500+ pages long. Not easy reading, but a good
    guide. Your sandy soil is great for pushing in ground rods by
    hand, that type of soil is what N5XZ had at his tower site & we
    pushed in 4 or 5 at his tower base. Sandy soil is fairly
    conductive when damp but less so as it dries out (keep the water
    hose handy) Robert

    *From:* BVARC <[email protected]> *On Behalf Of *john
    Parmalee via BVARC
    *Sent:* Wednesday, May 25, 2022 9:14 AM
    *To:* [email protected]
    *Cc:* john Parmalee <[email protected]>
    *Subject:* Re: [BVARC] grounding

    Robert, thanks for your comments.  I will check Elliott for screw
    together g rods the next time I am in town.  I live in far
    southwest Montgomery county, We don't have gumbo here but sandy
    loam. When I put my last g rod in I used a section of PVC
    connected to a garden hose to wash six or so feet into the ground
    then a sledge,

    One thing that has not been mentioned is chemical grounds.  I
    recall trying to make a 35 mHz paging system work.  One thing we
    did was to install chemical grounds on all the towers involved. 
    That didn't work, the frequency sees a modern office building a as
    a wave guide below cut off and just doesn't penetrate,

    I have read stories about trying to get a good ground while
    building across the desert power transmission lines.

    John Parmalee

    [email protected]

    281-380-3811

    K5VGM WI2XLJ

    In a message dated 5/25/2022 7:13:24 AM Central Standard Time,
    [email protected] writes:

        Robert,

        At my installation the only one I am really concerned about is
        the ground for the DSL into my house (NOT installed by myself)
        that is a pipe, not a rod.  I clamped a ground wire to a
        sanded portion of the pipe, and bonded it to my station
        ground, but I think the pipe thing is a real bad idea.  Given
        that it is an AT&T thing, do you have any suggestions other
        than what I have done?

        Ron

        Sent from Mail
        <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

        *From: *Robert Polinski via BVARC <mailto:[email protected]>
        *Sent: *Tuesday, May 24, 2022 8:29 PM
        *To: *john Parmalee <mailto:[email protected]>; BRAZOS VALLEY
        AMATEUR RADIO CLUB <mailto:[email protected]>
        *Cc: *Robert Polinski <mailto:[email protected]>
        *Subject: *Re: [BVARC] grounding

        John, they do make thread together rods, when I did commercial
        communications I have used them at comm sites. Here, a 10ft
        ground rod is fine as are wet gumbo soil makes a pretty good
        ground. The NEC requires 2 ground rods or a ground rod and a
        ufer ground, which can be rebar in the slab, metal water line
        or metal bldg. if in contact with the earth via rebar or
        poles. I usually install 2 rods. Most 10 ft ground are easy to
        push in the ground with just your hands. I just a few weeks
        ago installed additional rods at a hams house in the Heights.
        I wired a home in Elgin, just outside of Austin. Had to
        install horizonal ground rods as the ground was solid rock 2
        ft down. I always tie to an existing rod but always add an
        additional rod as you never know if the old ground rod is 10ft
        or 18” Here in the Houston area, testing is not necessary
        because of the soil, but as the video shows, it is a neat
        test. You are correct in your bends in the grounding
        conductor, they will act as a choke if made sharp, also, you
        should no run the ground wire in metal conduit for the same
        reason unless you bond the ground wire to the conduit at both
        ends. As far a lightning goes, remember, all the wiring the
        strike travels thru on the way to the earth has resistance &
        inductance, so by the time it gets in the circuit the voltage
        & current are greatly reduced, still high, but since the
        duration is short, a good grounding system will dissipate
        quickly.  Robert

        *From:* BVARC <[email protected]> *On Behalf Of *john
        Parmalee via BVARC
        *Sent:* Tuesday, May 24, 2022 6:31 PM
        *To:* [email protected]
        *Cc:* john Parmalee <[email protected]>
        *Subject:* Re: [BVARC] grounding

        From what the great video says, if you are comfortable working
        with 120V the simplest way to check out a ground rod is to see
        how much current it will draw and do the math.  Don't attempt
        this without experience working with a live circuit.  I have
        been told by licensed /electricians/that when a new service is
        turned up if there is the stub of a ground rod sticking out of
        the ground it is good. No testing required.

        The thing I don't know is where to get the ground rod to
        ground rod connections and the ground rods with the blunt ends
        so they can match the previously driven rod.  Lowes only
        carries the 8 or it 10-foot rods and the coupling to the flex
        wire to the service box.  I checked Amazon and found nothing. 
        I am told the local rental yard will rent a hammer drill and
        the ground rod driving adapter.

        Another comment regarding the ability of a ground to carry a
        lightning strike. All bends of the ground wire should have the
        gentlest bends possible.  A strike of lightning is a very fast
        rise time having many harmonics.  We know this because we can
        hear lightning almost to the VHF bands, A bend will look like
        an inductor and raise the instant ohmic value of a ground
        rod.  On the other hand, a few turns on a coax or power source
        lead will increase the ohms to you rig.it <http://rig.it> will
        not protect against a direct hit but might fend off some
        induced current from a nearby strike. In south Florida it is
        common to tie several knots in your modem phone line.  In
        Michigan they wrap a phone line around a ¼” bolt , some
        washers and a nut..

        John Parmalee

        [email protected]

        281-380-3811

        K5VGM WI2XLJ

        In a message dated 5/23/2022 7:54:42 PM Central Standard Time,
        [email protected] writes:

            If any one is interested in ground rod resistance, you can
            watch the link below. One thing I want watchers to note,
            they have 2 50ft ground rods connected together, they hook
            the hot side of a 120v ckt to them and it only pulls 13
            amps (not enough to trip a breaker), that is why the
            grounding system must have a bond back to the power co
            ground always. Note this is not related to the RF grounds
            used as a counterpoise to an antenna system other than
            they will be tied together at a point. Robert

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg6G5VUSsWA

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